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VW ID.3

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  • Registered Users Posts: 305 ✭✭kris_2021


    no i dont. i think charger was faullty as one side didnt work at all



  • Registered Users Posts: 946 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    Not yet, but my vw dealer agreed to run some battery tests at the start of August.



  • Registered Users Posts: 946 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    A quick update on my battery situation. I want to thank @KCross for volunteering 1h of his time to meet me and read some battery stats with his obd scanner.

    After a quick scroll through battery cell voltages we found at least 3 cells which had lower voltage that normal 4.1 - 4.09 V. Namely, n17 (4.02 V) and n17 (4.05 V ) in photo1 and n63 with 4.0V in photo 2. The last one is the one causing all the problems as the imbalance close enoughto 0.1 V.

    The other strange thing was that the max SOC reported by the app was 90.8% which was 4% lower than the displayed soc (photo 3 vs 95% photo 4). I thought that actually SoC is usually lower due to the buffers? I'm not 100% what the min soc of 81% is but maybe its the soc calculated from the weakest cell?

    The biggest "surprise" came in photo 4. The maximum energy content of the traction battery was reported to be 53.2kWh (still 9% degradation is we to believe the new battery was 58kWh) while the HV battery content was only 42.1kWh. If i understand correctly, the latter number is the energy available for use. 42.1kWh at 95% is 44.3kWh at 100% which is almost half way figure between capacities of 42.7kWh to 45.6kWh which I calculated in my previous post. So maybe I'm not crazy after all and I'm indeed missing 10kWh due to faulty cells🤔




  • Registered Users Posts: 618 ✭✭✭handpref


    That’s great news, fair play to you for sticking with it and kcross for giving up the time and expertise, lovely to see.

    I would imagine if you had not done this you could be quite easily fobbed off by the dealer.Hopefully the issue can now be fixed and 2.4 should see your winter range improve also.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,934 ✭✭✭ewj1978


    Dunno, I've done 52k kms in 14months. No noticeable drop in range at all. Are you sure it's reporting the battery capacity properly?

    An yes I haven't actually plugged anything in to see my capacity.

    On a side note I'm booked in for at least a day, if not 2, for the 2.4 update.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    It will be interesting to see how this goes for Rusky rusky. I felt my battery was at least 10% short of 58kWh from the start but never measured it properly. Just from the car readouts and charging.

    @KCross What app and dongle are people using to get these figures, I know it was mentioned previously but I can't remember



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,450 ✭✭✭cannco253


    VW (in Germany) have an ‘official’ test they can perform. I haven’t heard anyone here getting this done but might be worth asking




  • Registered Users Posts: 2,240 ✭✭✭fafy


    Thats some serious degredation, is there not a link between regularly fast charging at 100Kw + and battery degredation ?

    I think i read MadLad had been occasionally checking this, on his old i3, and if i recall, the degradation was fairly minimal, over a number of years, but it probably was not regularly fast charged, and the i3 has a 50kw max anyway.

    Degredation is going to become a big issue, for the future as we learn more about it, its still early days, as the EV’s are relatively new, and the data not really conclusive at this point.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    @ewj1978 I'm the same, no drop in range for me and approaching 2yrs old. I get consistent range from my car and the cells are balanced and the GOM is reasonably accurate and doesn't show any mad figures.

    Its not the same on @Rusky rusky car though and our cars are identical and have almost the same reg numbers so very close in production date.

    For example, at 95% his car shows a range of almost 400km. I've never seen that on mine but I get more range from my car than he does as his GOM is all over the place and drops like a stone when he drives it. He also mentioned that he sees it dropping when he turns the car on, without even driving it!!.... clearly he has faulty cells and the BMS is struggling to manage that.... the OBD data clearly shows the weak cells.

    He has at least 3 or 4 cells that are significantly out of line with the others and that was with the car having being charged to 100% a few hours earlier so they should have been quite close. A 110mV+ differential is way off the mark and is likely to be way more than that if he drove it down to 10% SoC where the weak cells would get further exposed.

    His battery isn't suffering time/use based degradation as such. What he has are a few weak/faulty cells (from day 1) which is dragging the entire pack down with it. The BMS has to work to protect the weakest cells so the pack is only as good as the weakest cell. If those cells were replaced it would be fine.

    How VW treat him now will be interesting. Do they want to keep goodwill and not have people complaining of faulty batteries on their critical MEB platform or will they play hard ball and cite the 70% warranty... I'd say Rusky has somewhere between 75-80% so not quite there yet but it will surely hit 70% by the 8yr mark so they should just step up and address it now before it gets worse.


    @Mr Q I am using a Vgate dongle that I had from my Leaf many years ago and I am using the CarScanner app.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,123 ✭✭✭sh81722


    Unlike the original Nissans pre 2013 that had chemistry that genuinely and excessively degraded, it seems that ID cars can suffer from genuinely defective cells. If the cells degrade normally the battery will probably never degrade below the warranty levels but stays at roughly 90% state of health for years and years after the initial degradation has occurred. The good news is that most likely those defective cells will totally fail within warranty period after which you can expect to receive a new battery then.

    Frustrating as it's a bit of a raw deal as you, in effect, got the Life model specs but paying full price. The 70% warranty here is protecting VW and not you. What has to happen for the warranty to do anything is for the car to suffer from a genuinely defective battery. Hopefully VW will do the right thing and fix it asap but don't hold your breath. It's probably a question of contacting the right folk within the company if your local garage is clueless.



  • Registered Users Posts: 402 ✭✭rocketspocket


    Could VW replace these individual cells or is it a sealed unit & a full battery change would be needed?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,240 ✭✭✭fafy


    Uncle & some others would know, my understanding is that its possible to replace individual cells.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,116 ✭✭✭✭KCross


    They could replace the cells (or more likely the modules that the cells are in) but being a big OEM they might also just replace the entire battery and get it shipped back for further analysis and reconditioning...

    i.e. your typical VW dealer probably doesn't know how to change cells but will know how to swap out the entire battery.

    ..but who knows what they will do here... they could tell him to get lost!



  • Registered Users Posts: 580 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    Thought I’d ask a couple questions here as this annoys the living f*ck out of me.

    is there a way to keep the id3 in econo mode? It randomly switches to comfort as the default. Not always but I shouldn’t have to do a pre check to see where it is when I start out.

    also is there a way to turn off the speed and road sign recognition when driving in D mode. I’ve done it for the cruise control and can’t seem to get it shut off if I’m driving in D mode.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    Do you mean to stop the car slowing on its own approaching junctions and different speed zones when in D mode? I think that is the Eco Assist option, it is off on mine but would need to check how I done it and which option it was.



  • Registered Users Posts: 580 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    Yes, I’ll try that. It’s a bit annoying as the roads I drive really are not suitable for it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,450 ✭✭✭cannco253


    I had this in our leaf. Nissan refused to acknowledge that there was a problem, even though the car was within warranty (some cells were dragging down the overall performance).

    Indy dealer tried to fix it i.e. replace the weak cells, but ran into problems so it’s not an easy thing to do. Long story, couldn’t fix it and ended up trading for something else.

    From what I’ve seen of the VW packs I’d be surprised if a dealer here would try to sort individual cells.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,243 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Can dealers even swap out the batteries? When the turbo was replaced in my Golf they forgot to reconnect the airbox and broke the headlight washers when putting the bumper back on in the process.

    There's so much tech, sensors and other components in cars these days, how do you know you're not getting fobbed off with the fella who barely finished school? I get the impression there's very few actually highly skilled techs in service departments.



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,309 ✭✭✭✭wotzgoingon


    You are right most places might have someone who is there years but the majority as you said are young lads doing apprenticeships.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 105 ✭✭VWPAT


    The cooling fan makes noise like the blades tipping something during charging. Anyone have this problem? Charged to 80%, the gom says 347.



  • Registered Users Posts: 683 ✭✭✭Sam the Sham


    VW board has ousted Herbert Diess as CEO. Mostly not because of the continuing software problems. He is to be replaced by Oliver Blume, currently head of Porsche.

    https://www.ft.com/content/f73ee239-8c2a-4344-b042-2d78c646506b



  • Registered Users Posts: 580 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    Yep that fixed it. Now all I need is for it to stop going into comfort mode when I have eco mode selected.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,799 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    A guy on twitter had issues with a Leaf 40 similar to Rusky Rusky....

    In that Leaf case - it went to a particular Nissan site in UK* that had special training.

    But there was a lot of faff involved as Nissan wouldn't accept the leafspy info.

    Took a few goes to get it improved.

    Its a learning curve for the dealers and manufacturers.

    At normal dealer level id expect them to swop out the full pack.

    The problem with changing cells is that you need (as i understand it) to balance the new cells to match the not faulty cells already on the car.

    *it might have been a Nissan dealer with a specialist guy as opposed to Nissan themselves - the point is more that its not a standard issue dealer skill.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,295 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG




  • Registered Users Posts: 193 ✭✭bodgerfederer


    ‘He also mentioned that he sees it dropping when he turns the car on, without even driving it!!....’


    i get this sometimes too, should I be worried? I assume it was just the gom recalculating based on my last driving?



  • Registered Users Posts: 305 ✭✭kris_2021




  • Registered Users Posts: 12,295 ✭✭✭✭DrPhilG


    Agreed, the only reason that the same issue bugs me is that it defaults back from Sport.



  • Registered Users Posts: 580 ✭✭✭ddarcy


    I actually don’t notice a difference between eco and comfort. Except battery runs down quicker in comfort mode. So I just keep it in eco or try to keep it in eco all the time.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 946 ✭✭✭Rusky rusky


    Eco throttles the power. Battery life tested the 0-100 times when he got his car and eco was ab 2s slower. You can def feel dampened throttle response in eco mode. There was no difference in 0-100 kph between comfort and sport modes.



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