Jordan (Solo, no car)

ancapailldorcha

Hi all,

I've been deliberating for a while on possibly going to Jordan next September. My main issue is that while I am fond of the history of the Crusades period, there is virtually no transport to the various Crusader castles in the region. Even getting to Petra means relying on one bus from the capital at 06:30.

I'd ideally rent a car but that would mean postponing the trip for a few years as I'd have to get a licence and have it for a year. I'm sorting it now but that's a while off.

I was looking at 3 days in Amman, a day in Jerash, 3 in Petra and a few in Wadi Rum.

Has anyone here been to Jordan? I know that it's fairly safe and tourist friendly. It'd be a shame to go and miss out on its historical and biblical treasures because of the dismal public transport system. Taxis might be an option but I reckon they'd be very expensive due to the distance between these places.

Thanks

coylemj

All of your research is screaming 'buy a package which includes excursions to the historical sights'.

zac8

Just use taxis, they’re very cheap. We travelled from Aqaba to Petra and then Dead Sea by taxi. We had 2 days in Petra and thought it was plenty. For Wadi Rum you can get very cheap accommodation in Aqaba if you avoid the resorts, and then use the nearby beach club for access to Red Sea. The town hotels provide free bus passes to get to it. Just get a taxi then to Wadi Rum village where there are approved drivers who can take you on a private tour.

ancapailldorcha

I never really considered packages. For some reason I never liked the idea but Intrepid and G-Adventures seem to have decent ones.

I was hoping to stay in Wadi Rum and maybe look at a Camel Trek and the Lawrence of Arabia stuff there.

If the taxis are cheap, that might be viable.

Muahahaha

Buses connect all major towns in Jordan, for everything else there will always be share taxis which will run set routes to smaller areas. You just need to find out where these share taxis congregate in the town you're in. You share with three other passengers, the taxi driver wont leave until he is full up. That can be five minutes or it could be an hour but you will get where you're going and for cheap.

Hitchhiking in Jordan is very easy too, anyone with spare space would give you a lift and not even ask a penny for it. We arrived late evening to the Jordanian border from Syria when all buses had departed but still managed to easilyhitch all the way to Amman. Jordianians are very friendly and curious people and they love talking to people from other countries.

If going to Wadi Rum do your research on prices you would expect to pay for a tour in advance. Touts there will quote you easily double or triple the amount and try to persuade you that is the price. The touts are only trying to make money off the backs of the drivers and will tell all sorts of lies. Once you've paid you wont see them again and they then can shaft the driver on his cut so as a result he wont bring to all the spots agreed with the tout. Hold your ground and know whats what or else you'll get completely ripped off and not see half of the sights.

Petra is good but not sure it is worth three full days. We had a full day there and saw everything worth seeing. If you want to see a sunrise/sunset over the pink rocks then two days is good but I reckon 3 is excessive unless you are really into it. Would recommend spending 2 days at Petra and the other day floating in the Dead Sea. The Jordianian side is far less developed than the Israeli side and is quite pleasant to relax and do nothing but float and lie on a beach.

ancapailldorcha

Thanks Muahahaha.

I'm tempted now to just go straight to Madaba and then go through Kerak and Shobak to Petra if taxis are available in such small places. Would hitchiking not be terribly dangerous?

Regarding the Dead Sea, are there buses or anything to there? A bus tour from Amman/Madaba or Petra would be handy. I found when I went to Cuba that there was very, very little info online about bus tours I didn't find out about until I was actually there?

Would you have to book Wadi Rum tours in advance or can that be done when there? Thanks for the tip about the scams. I'll try and research it in advance.

Muahahaha

ancapailldorcha wrote: »

Thanks Muahahaha.

I'm tempted now to just go straight to Madaba and then go through Kerak and Shobak to Petra if taxis are available in such small places. Would hitchiking not be terribly dangerous?

Hitchhiking is pretty safe in Jordan and is a way of transport for many of the locals. Its not free for them but it gets them places regular buses dont go. We hitched a couple of times in Jordan and on both occasions the driver wouldnt take money off us. I wish we had of had even some kind of trinket with us (like a leprechaun fridge magnet!) to pay them.

Regarding the Dead Sea, are there buses or anything to there? A bus tour from Amman/Madaba or Petra would be handy. I found when I went to Cuba that there was very, very little info online about bus tours I didn't find out about until I was actually there?

From memory we got a bus form Amman to Kerak and hopped off there and headed west to the Dead Sea. We had two stragglers with us so the four of us hired a private taxi to the Dead Sea which wasnt that far away from Kerak. I forget the name of the town by the shore but its the main spot. It was very undeveloped back then, on the far side of the sea you can see skyscrapers and full on holiday resorts in Israel. On the Jordan side things are a lot quieter.

As for tours- its 10 yrs since Ive been in Jordan so things might have changed. I do remember seeing posters on the notice boards of hostels for tours but its such an easy country to travel independently that we didnt bother (plus I dont like being on tours unless they are completely unavoidable)

Would you have to book Wadi Rum tours in advance or can that be done when there? Thanks for the tip about the scams. I'll try and research it in advance.

We just rocked up to the entrance of Wadi Rum in a group of 8 all wanting to do the same thing, a jeep tour of the valley. There was a lot of back and forth with the touts and a bit of a Mexican stand off till the prices came down as everyone knew they were trying to rip us off. The touts scam is so well known there are even warnings about it in the Lonely Planet & Rough Guides to Jordan.

I would think that things may have changed there by now and I would be surprised if you cannot book a tour in advance of arrival. If you can I would do that to avoid the hassle at the entrance, providing the tour is not overpriced. Just be wary of the specifics of the tour, what sites it will visit, how long it will be, etc because it is easy to get shafted. I would say your best bet to get recent and up to date information is to go over to the Jordan forum on Trip Advisor and read through there before asking for recommendations. Lonely Planet forums can also be useful but probably not as busy as TA.

You'll love Jordan, its a small but fantastic country with great food, people and sights. The only place I'd rank above it in the Middle East is Iran.

ancapailldorcha

Muahahaha wrote: »

Hitchhiking is pretty safe in Jordan and is a way of transport for many of the locals. Its not free for them but it gets them places regular buses dont go. We hitched a couple of times in Jordan and on both occasions the driver wouldnt take money off us. I wish we had of had even some kind of trinket with us (like a leprechaun fridge magnet!) to pay them.

Ah right. Not something I considered I have to say. Interesting that they wouldn't take money. I'd read that they will initially refuse but payment is ultimately expected but that's not an issue one way or another.

As I don't drive, I'd say I either do this trip now or wait until 2020 when I can have had a licence for the requisite year for car rental. Probably do it now methinks.

Muahahaha wrote: »

From memory we got a bus form Amman to Kerak and hopped off there and headed west to the Dead Sea. We had two stragglers with us so the four of us hired a private taxi to the Dead Sea which wasnt that far away from Kerak. I forget the name of the town by the shore but its the main spot. It was very undeveloped back then, on the far side of the sea you can see skyscrapers and full on holiday resorts in Israel. On the Jordan side things are a lot quieter.

Ah right. Ok. Dead Sea looks like a selfie thing to be honest but it would be nice to do.

Muahahaha wrote: »

As for tours- its 10 yrs since Ive been in Jordan so things might have changed. I do remember seeing posters on the notice boards of hostels for tours but its such an easy country to travel independently that we didnt bother (plus I dont like being on tours unless they are completely unavoidable)

I did 2 days when I was in Cuba. It was fine and handy but... I just hate feeling like a tourist for some reason. I also like my own company but having the convenience can be handy. Info seems to be a tad sketchy online. I'd be happy to do a few day trips but I'd say Petra and Wadi Rum are made for just getting lost in. To an extent of course. Desert and all.

Muahahaha wrote: »

We just rocked up to the entrance of Wadi Rum in a group of 8 all wanting to do the same thing, a jeep tour of the valley. There was a lot of back and forth with the touts and a bit of a Mexican stand off till the prices came down as everyone knew they were trying to rip us off. The touts scam is so well known there are even warnings about it in the Lonely Planet & Rough Guides to Jordan.

I would think that things may have changed there by now and I would be surprised if you cannot book a tour in advance of arrival. If you can I would do that to avoid the hassle at the entrance, providing the tour is not overpriced. Just be wary of the specifics of the tour, what sites it will visit, how long it will be, etc because it is easy to get shafted. I would say your best bet to get recent and up to date information is to go over to the Jordan forum on Trip Advisor and read through there before asking for recommendations. Lonely Planet forums can also be useful but probably not as busy as TA.

Oh no. I would prefer to just book stuff when I get there to be honest. Various sites have made these Bedouins out to be some sort of legendary hosts. I don't know how booking online for such a remote area can work. Happy to book accommodation but I'd honestly prefer to book camels and the like when actually there. They'd hardly book out, surely?

I've got the Lonely Planet book. I'd made an itinerary but since taxis might be viable, I might try and squeeze in Kerak and Madaba. I think I can do a day trip to Jerash from Amman and possibly the Dead Sea via a tour as well.

Muahahaha wrote: »

You'll love Jordan, its a small but fantastic country with great food, people and sights. The only place I'd rank above it in the Middle East is Iran.

Ah stop. I'd love to go to Iran but I want to see the sites in Israel as well. Ruling out going to the US on an ESTA probably isn't a great idea either.

Again, thanks for your responses.

Muahahaha

ancapailldorcha wrote: »

As I don't drive, I'd say I either do this trip now or wait until 2020 when I can have had a licence for the requisite year for car rental. Probably do it now methinks.

As a rule of thumb if there is peace in the Middle Eastern country you want to visit then just go asap! I got lucky with Syria and visited it during peace time between the previous civil war and the current one. Got to see the Roman ruins at Palmrya, historic city of Aleppo and the crusader castle Crac du Chevalier which were all superb. Nowadays Aleppo is raised to rubble and ISIS blew up much of the antiquities in Palmrya. Even the historic souks in Damascus have suffered a lot of bomb damage, its very sad what has happened there.

Ah right. Ok. Dead Sea looks like a selfie thing to be honest but it would be nice to do.

yeah it is a bit but is still worth doing, even just as a day trip for a bit of relaxation for a few hours. When we got there it was after several weeks of rough travel from Istanbul through eastern Turkey and Syria into Jordan and with the Middle East being a very hot and dusty place a swim and float in the Dead sea was a very welcome thing.

Oh no. I would prefer to just book stuff when I get there to be honest. Various sites have made these Bedouins out to be some sort of legendary hosts. I don't know how booking online for such a remote area can work. Happy to book accommodation but I'd honestly prefer to book camels and the like when actually there. They'd hardly book out, surely?

You'll always be able to just rock up and book something in these kinds of places. Only thing is to know the price in advance and have good haggling skills to get it.

Ah stop. I'd love to go to Iran but I want to see the sites in Israel as well. Ruling out going to the US on an ESTA probably isn't a great idea either.

Again, thanks for your responses.

We had both Iranian and Syrian visas in our passports by the time we showed up at the Jordan-Israeli border near Eliat. The IDF were not impressed and searched the hell out of all our bags as well as a bit of a good cop bad cop style interrogation on lots of things.Had to give them every single address I ever lived at and they even rang my mother at home to confirm who I was. Whole process took about three hours but we got through. Nowadays I hear they are doing full online checks on your Facebook, etc before deciding to let you in if you have a visa from Iran or Syria in your passport. Its a better idea to travel to Israel first before Iran and ask them at the airport not to stamp your passport or do it on a separate page so that way the Iranians dont know you've been there when you later give them your passport to get a tourist visa. Its either that or get a brand new passport :pac:

ancapailldorcha

Muahahaha wrote: »

As a rule of thumb if there is peace in the Middle Eastern country you want to visit then just go asap! I got lucky with Syria and visited it during peace time between the previous civil war and the current one. Got to see the Roman ruins at Palmrya, historic city of Aleppo and the crusader castle Crac du Chevalier which were all superb. Nowadays Aleppo is raised to rubble and ISIS blew up much of the antiquities in Palmrya. Even the historic souks in Damascus have suffered a lot of bomb damage, its very sad what has happened there.

That's a shame. I intend to try and see as much as I can of whatever remains over the next few years. That shoulds amazing though.

Muahahaha wrote: »

yeah it is a bit but is still worth doing, even just as a day trip for a bit of relaxation for a few hours. When we got there it was after several weeks of rough travel from Istanbul through eastern Turkey and Syria into Jordan and with the Middle East being a very hot and dusty place a swim and float in the Dead sea was a very welcome thing.

Ah right. I'd say the novelty is worth beholding if nothing else. Did you do Mt. Nebo or Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan? I think there are bus tours encompassing all three.

Muahahaha wrote: »

You'll always be able to just rock up and book something in these kinds of places. Only thing is to know the price in advance and have good haggling skills to get it.

That'd be my preferred option. Not thrilled about dealing with scammers as I'd be travelling alone but it looks like there's little I can do except go in prepared. I'll book Wadi Rum accommodation in advance and activities there in case things change.

Muahahaha wrote: »

We had both Iranian and Syrian visas in our passports by the time we showed up at the Jordan-Israeli border near Eliat. The IDF were not impressed and searched the hell out of all our bags as well as a bit of a good cop bad cop style interrogation on lots of things.Had to give them every single address I ever lived at and they even rang my mother at home to confirm who I was. Whole process took about three hours but we got through. Nowadays I hear they are doing full online checks on your Facebook, etc before deciding to let you in if you have a visa from Iran or Syria in your passport. Its a better idea to travel to Israel first before Iran and ask them at the airport not to stamp your passport or do it on a separate page so that way the Iranians dont know you've been there when you later give them your passport to get a tourist visa. Its either that or get a brand new passport :pac:

Aye, this would be what I was concerned about. Iran anyway. Should probably postpone Syria for several years.

I don't think the Israelis stamp passports anymore unless you ask. You get a card now I think.

Credit Checker Moose

Iran has stopped stamping passports.

The Black Oil

Interested in a few places - Egypt, Turkey, Jordan, etc. Follow a few travel vloggers who've had good experiences (Israel too), not always sponsored or too much gloss/promotion in the videos.

Yeah...the passport thing.

Good luck with your research.

Credit Checker Moose

Actually Turkish stamps are more of a problem these days. My passport is riddled with them and is causing problems in more and more countries.

Muahahaha

Credit Checker Moose wrote: »

Actually Turkish stamps are more of a problem these days. My passport is riddled with them and is causing problems in more and more countries.

Have a couple myself, why are they now problematic and in which countries did you experience it?

Credit Checker Moose

China is now no go with Turkish stamps. They are refusing even the free 72 hour visa to those with Turkish stamps. Visas are taking much longer also with detailed explanations of all time in Turkey being required before they will even consider.

Muahahaha

wow didnt know that. Did Ergodan do something to p1ss the Chinese off and this is retaliation?