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Sub compact chainring advice

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  • 28-06-2019 11:46am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭


    I presently ride a 50-34, 11-32.
    I weigh 102 kg.
    I have been cycling for a year and while my climbing is improving once I hit the higher gradients I’m in trouble, grinding at 50-60 rpm.
    I read that with correct gearing one should be able to spin at 90 or so rpm no matter the gradient.
    I am considering changing my shimano ultegra 50-34 chainrings to either a 48-32 or 46-30 setup so that I may spin more on hills.
    My bike is a Giant Defy 2018 model.

    Your thoughts/advise/expertise would be much appreciated.


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 16,786 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    My two cents....

    50/34 with 11 32 should get you up alot of hills in Ireland. Also 80rpm is a good climbing cadence in steady gradients but the steep stuff will have you grinding no matter who or how fit you are.

    You just need to work a little on fitness and try get some weight off, even 5kgs makes a difference. The best way to improve is to improve yourself.

    For reference I'm 94kgs and fit with a max cassette of 11 28 on 52 /36 so don't get bugged down by your weight just lose a little and build power.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 gippo77


    Try an 11/34 cassette


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,585 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    an 11/34 might not be compatible with the RD (though probably is if he's already running a 32).
    would be cheaper than changing chainrings, and would be functionally equivalent to dropping to a 32 tooth on the front (i.e. it'd be a one to one gear ratio)


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    I am not sure going from 32 to 34 on the cassette will make a huge difference. I have an 11-34 cassette (hg700 105) and my bike came stock with FSA Omega 46/30 rings. So maybe change both out. If you have a threaded BSA BB shell you could easily pick up an FSA adventure crankset and mega exo BB for 50€-60€. I actually removed mine (might sell it on as still relatively new) and replaced it with 105 50/34 and BBR 60 BB.

    Also the 30 ring typically uses a 90bcd so you likely wont be able to mount it onto your shimano setup. The other option is to wait for the Shimano GR gravel crankset which is coming in 46/31 and 48/31.

    Personally I prefer a 34 small ring with a 34t cog. With the small FSA ring, 30t all the way down to 27t, I was spinning to hard on 7% inclines which is about the steepest I go.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,585 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Flaccus wrote: »
    I am not sure going from 32 to 34 on the cassette will make a huge difference.
    it'd make the same difference as going from 34 to 32 on the chainring, surely?
    i.e. changing the cassette alone will result in 34-34, changing the chainring alone (to a 32) results in a 32-32.

    however, either will make an approx 6% difference in the granny gear ratio.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    it'd make the same difference as going from 34 to 32 on the chainring, surely?
    i.e. changing the cassette alone will result in 34-34, changing the chainring alone (to a 32) results in a 32-32.

    however, either will make an approx 6% difference in the granny gear ratio.

    I would try the 34 on the cassette and if not enough look at 30 on the chainring. Less than 1:1 ratio.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Danville wrote: »
    I presently ride a 50-34, 11-32.
    I weigh 102 kg.
    I have been cycling for a year and while my climbing is improving once I hit the higher gradients I’m in trouble, grinding at 50-60 rpm.
    I read that with correct gearing one should be able to spin at 90 or so rpm no matter the gradient.
    I am considering changing my shimano ultegra 50-34 chainrings to either a 48-32 or 46-30 setup so that I may spin more on hills.
    My bike is a Giant Defy 2018 model.

    Your thoughts/advise/expertise would be much appreciated.

    I ride a Defy with sub compact rings 46-30 and 11-34 on the rear.
    These are the chainrings I bought
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/46-50T-30T-BCD110-DOVAL-MicroGT-Chainring-for-4-arm-Shimano-Etc/123296546152?hash=item1cb50bfd68:m:mHO8dy83u8MF28rHXN5PX8Q
    They are slightly ovalised (they call these ones 5g) but they do more oval options.
    Very easy to fit. I had them on a 6800 crankset and then changed them to a 9000 crankset.
    They give a 34-34 ratio with my setup, so can go up everything. 46-11 is the 'hardest' gearing though, so on the flat you will spend all of your time on the 46 ring.
    Go for it! Can post pics of my setup if you want.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Photos


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,257 ✭✭✭✭Borderfox


    I have a set of the absolute black 46-30 and used them in the reservoir dog last year. Found them excellent and kept my cadence high enough. For sale if you need a set


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    Borderfox wrote: »
    I have a set of the absolute black 46-30 and used them in the reservoir dog last year. Found them excellent and kept my cadence high enough. For sale if you need a set

    I have seen these Absolute Black rings mentioned in both 48-32 and 46-30.

    Where are they for sale?, or are you selling them?, if so price please( if that’s allowed.)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    dahat wrote: »
    My two cents....

    50/34 with 11 32 should get you up alot of hills in Ireland. Also 80rpm is a good climbing cadence in steady gradients but the steep stuff will have you grinding no matter who or how fit you are.

    You just need to work a little on fitness and try get some weight off, even 5kgs makes a difference. The best way to improve is to improve yourself.

    For reference I'm 94kgs and fit with a max cassette of 11 28 on 52 /36 so don't get bugged down by your weight just lose a little and build power.

    I am working on both weight and climbing strength and have improved both. however being 63 , and cycling for just a year I want the best of both worlds, improve myself but also use the easiest gearing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    gman2k wrote: »
    I ride a Defy with sub compact rings 46-30 and 11-34 on the rear.
    These are the chainrings I bought
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/46-50T-30T-BCD110-DOVAL-MicroGT-Chainring-for-4-arm-Shimano-Etc/123296546152?hash=item1cb50bfd68:m:mHO8dy83u8MF28rHXN5PX8Q
    They are slightly ovalised (they call these ones 5g) but they do more oval options.
    Very easy to fit. I had them on a 6800 crankset and then changed them to a 9000 crankset.
    They give a 34-34 ratio with my setup, so can go up everything. 46-11 is the 'hardest' gearing though, so on the flat you will spend all of your time on the 46 ring.
    Go for it! Can post pics of my setup if you want.

    I see there is now a 6G one available but it is 46-34t.
    With the small ring being the same as my present one, it would not help my climbing/climbing cadence.

    I may however go for the one you have.

    Thanks for your input, and everyone else also.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    You can get an 11-46t 10sp cassette. That would give you much lower bottom gearing. Getting a rear mech to suit may be a harder proposition though a derailleur hanger extension might allow you to use your current rear mech...


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭Whatwicklow


    I run a 11-36 mountain bike cassette with a M cage ultegra derailleur, no issue shifting.

    Quick cheap way to lower gearing..


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    I have a 46/30 FSA Omega chainset coupled with an 11/32 cassette and I love it for climbing. The 30/32 will get you up everything comfortably, albeit slowly. I did consider changing the chainset to 50/34 compact as 34/32 is all I really need but I’ll wear out these ones first and decide what to replace them with then.

    If your finding the hills hard then I’d recommend the 46/30 set up with either a 11/32 or 11/34 cassette. I don’t think you’d need anything lower than that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    You can get an 11-46t 10sp cassette. That would give you much lower bottom gearing. Getting a rear mech to suit may be a harder proposition though a derailleur hanger extension might allow you to use your current rear mech...

    Sounds like he has 11 speed setup, if his cranks are 6800.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,257 ✭✭✭✭Borderfox


    Danville wrote: »
    I have seen these Absolute Black rings mentioned in both 48-32 and 46-30.

    Where are they for sale?, or are you selling them?, if so price please( if that’s allowed.)

    I'm selling them, set of 46-30 110bcd four bolt for €100 nearly new


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,436 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    FSA do 48/32 cranks and 46/30. Ridewill sell them, and I think they've some other brand that does similar but uses hollowtech ii.

    I swapped a compact for 48/32 and put an 11-34t on the back. Now it's on a croix de fer so wouldn't it's for wandering down crap roads really bit still feel like I can spin up a wall with it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    Borderfox wrote: »
    I'm selling them, set of 46-30 110bcd four bolt for €100 nearly new
    Not at the moment, thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭TGD


    dahat wrote: »
    My two cents....

    50/34 with 11 32 should get you up alot of hills in Ireland. Also 80rpm is a good climbing cadence in steady gradients but the steep stuff will have you grinding no matter who or how fit you are.

    You just need to work a little on fitness and try get some weight off, even 5kgs makes a difference. The best way to improve is to improve yourself.

    For reference I'm 94kgs and fit with a max cassette of 11 28 on 52 /36 so don't get bugged down by your weight just lose a little and build power.

    90rpm, with a 48×11 gear combination, produces 50kph. If that’s fast enough for you it makes no sense not to be more comfortable riding your bike while you develop fitness and, of course, you are future-proofing your set-up as you age. Also, it will help protect your knees - you are putting old and relatively un-conditioned knees under some pressure and at some point they may begin to complain.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    If your finding the hills hard then I’d recommend the 46/30 set up with either a 11/32 or 11/34 cassette. I don’t think you’d need anything lower than that.

    My climbing gear is 26 front and 32 rear and that's sometimes too hard...


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    Leave the man alone I say. He’s working his own farm doing no harm to anybody. It might be a mess but it’s his mess and he’s no sitting about watching judge rinder and waiting for his dole.

    cdaly_ wrote:
    My climbing gear is 26 front and 32 rear and that's sometimes too hard...


    I've a tourer with a triple 10spd setup.
    22 granny ring, 36 largest at the back!


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭Danville


    I have ordered a Shimano GRX 810 31-48t with a new front derailleur.
    Will let you all know in a few months how I get on.

    Thanks everyone for your tips and advice.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    cdaly_ wrote: »
    My climbing gear is 26 front and 32 rear and that's sometimes too hard...

    Reading this with interest. Was doing a fair bit of steep gravel off-road on rough bohereen on the CX bike over the weekend and the low gear of 34/32 was just not cutting it for me. Full hydraulic ultegra 11sp group so not sure what the options are, e.g. longer cage rear mech and MTB cassette maybe. Also looking at a tyre that would be decent on and off-road, even though it obviously compromises both, something like this


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Interesting that Shimano now have a very low geared gravel specific groupset for gravel and CX bikes; https://www.bikeradar.com/news/shimano-grx/

    The GRX 810 RD has a clutch mechanism and from my reading would allow a 50/34 compact to run with an 11/40 cassette. Really interested in this, though I expect it comes with a burning cross in the front garden from more serious roadies ;)

    As a mid 50s lad carrying a bit of extra weight who likes hills and gravel, this has a certain allure. Question is, if the fitness and strength isn't there to start with are lower gears just prolonging the pain?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 14,983 ✭✭✭✭tuxy


    Has anyone tried one of these?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycle-Deraileur-Aluminum-Derailleur-Extension/dp/B07GRTRQ55/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hanger+extension+bike&qid=1563750007&s=gateway&sr=8-6

    It should allow an 11 - 40 mountain bike cassette to work with a road derailleur.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    tuxy wrote:
    Has anyone tried one of these?


    They have been mentioned above in the thread, and can be bought for a 1/4 of the price on eBay.
    I have one on my tourer bike, although it's not needed with the current xt rear mech and 10 SPD 11-36 cassette, but will allow me to put in a wider range cassette if needed.
    Any existing minor hanger out of alignment issues will be magnified with a hanger extender, so check it out if having shifting issues.


  • Registered Users Posts: 649 ✭✭✭TGD


    tuxy wrote: »
    Has anyone tried one of these?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bicycle-Deraileur-Aluminum-Derailleur-Extension/dp/B07GRTRQ55/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=hanger+extension+bike&qid=1563750007&s=gateway&sr=8-6

    It should allow an 11 - 40 mountain bike cassette to work with a road derailleur.
    Any equivalent for front hanger. My derailleur is at the bottom with a 50.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭gman2k


    TGD wrote:
    Any equivalent for front hanger. My derailleur is at the bottom with a 50.


    I've a 8000 front mech, no issues with 46/30


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 20,436 Mod ✭✭✭✭Weepsie


    Might make a difference for a braze-on derailleur no?

    I'm using a tiagra one on a 48/32 but it's clamp on so can be lowered


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