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The eBike thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Not to bad i guess, still waiting for the 1t4 cable.
    ct3piZl.jpg

    The batteries are cheap (5P13S Li-ion 2.5Ah 65 pcs 18650 battery cells (china battery cells)
    After seeing some cheap batteries go up in flames my next priority is to upgrade.
    I saw a guy some selling a 48v 24.5ah jumbo LG battery for €599 in Dublin.
    Anyone know some good deals or manufacture?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,293 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Are you using the bike on the road at all? If so I'd be putting on a tyre suited to the road for better rolling resistance and weight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Nice bike!
    Magzire wrote: »
    The batteries are cheap (5P13S Li-ion 2.5Ah 65 pcs 18650 battery cells (china battery cells)
    After seeing some cheap batteries go up in flames my next priority is to upgrade.

    All li-ion are as dangerous as each other and the invariably cheap BMS used don't help either. All of this stuff is made in China BTW, as is your iPhone :p

    The only way to have a safe eBike battery, is to use LiFePo4 cells...


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    DaveyDave wrote: »
    Are you using the bike on the road at all? If so I'd be putting on a tyre suited to the road for better rolling resistance and weight.

    Well I bought it last year for exercise during the lock down and cycle only on my local roads and royal canal. Now I want to cycle to work when weather gets better. I managed to lose 8 kilos and plan to lose more so I don't mind the extra resistance and weight.


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    unkel wrote: »
    Nice bike!



    All li-ion are as dangerous as each other and the invariably cheap BMS used don't help either. All of this stuff is made in China BTW, as is your iPhone :p

    The only way to have a safe eBike battery, is to use LiFePo4 cells...

    Thanks for that info


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  • Registered Users Posts: 175 ✭✭benjy1000


    https://shop.independent.ie/?gclid=CjwKCAjwr_uCBhAFEiwAX8YJgSjUUQhwVTmczNcphlu7YEloX22eeKkZKE8_6a_G2I9bxLMcl0eXpxoCO7gQAvD_BwE



    Hi,

    Came across this veloci ebike link on b.ie.
    Seems interesting just curious if anybody has bought from it or has any feedback on veloci ebike in general ?

    Cheers
    B


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,968 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Magzire wrote: »
    Not to bad i guess, still waiting for the 1t4 cable.
    [img]https://i.imgur.com/ct3piZl.jpg[mg] The batteries are cheap (5P13S Li-ion 2.5Ah 65 pcs 18650 battery cells (china battery cells) After seeing some cheap batteries go up in flames my next priority is to upgrade. I saw a guy some selling a 48v 24.5ah jumbo LG battery for €599 in Dublin. Anyone know some good deals or manufacture?[/img]
    That looks great there, underneath the downtube was a bit dodgy looking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,939 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Just wondering if anyone here has tried the Rockrider E-ST100 or 500? Decalthon are selling them and they seem to be some of the cheapest e-bikes out there while still being high quality

    I'm toying with the idea of getting an e-bike next year, partly for commuting so the electric motor would be handy for the long uphill ride home. I used to have a trail bike and I really like being able to take it offroad a bit which is something I feel commuter and road bikes really aren't capable of

    I wouldn't be covering huge distances (20-30km max), so I feel for me the extra weight and bulk of an eMTB are worth it for what I'm looking for.

    Bumping as I got no responses the first time :)

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Since i have rivet nuts under the frame i was thinking it be a good spot to have a spare tube and tools. Anyone know something like a bag holder that will go into a drink holder mount?


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Thargor wrote: »
    That looks great there, underneath the downtube was a bit dodgy looking.

    The power controller is right there were the tire would hit, that would end in disaster


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  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭SCOL


    Magzire wrote: »
    Since i have rivet nuts under the frame i was thinking it be a good spot to have a spare tube and tools. Anyone know something like a bag holder that will go into a drink holder mount?

    you could use a actual drink container, fill it with the tools you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,572 ✭✭✭Skill Magill


    This will do the job, cheap and has good reviews too :

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-tool-storage-bottle


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    This will do the job, cheap and has good reviews too :

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-tool-storage-bottle

    great idea, thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 yousifm


    jc bamford wrote: »
    Just wondering if you got the Kuma and how it worked out. I am looking at the R1 myself but the the battery looks a bit small at 8.7 AH
    If you're planning to use it quite a lot, I would definitely look at a battery size of at least 12Ah.
    You should be able to find an ebike with a decent sized battery for about 1400 or 1500 or, if you already have a bike, you can make it electric with a conversion kit (they usually come with decent sized batteries).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    yousifm wrote: »
    If you're planning to use it quite a lot, I would definitely look at a battery size of at least 12Ah.
    You should be able to find an ebike with a decent sized battery for about 1400 or 1500 or, if you already have a bike, you can make it electric with a conversion kit (they usually come with decent sized batteries).

    Depends completely on what you want with the bike. Sure if you have a huge commute and need a (very) long range and / or use it as a "motorbike" without wanting to do much in the way of pedaling yourself, sure get a big battery

    For a lot of people a smaller battery would be a better option. It is substantially cheaper and lighter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    I managed to get a cable and got it all working, got it up to 54km/h. Ridiculously fast, that's only the 750watt version. That's plenty enough for me. A lot smoother than i expected. Overall definitely worth it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,359 ✭✭✭Padre_Pio


    Magzire wrote: »
    I managed to get a cable and got it all working, got it up to 54km/h. Ridiculously fast, that's only the 750watt version. That's plenty enough for me. A lot smoother than i expected. Overall definitely worth it.

    54km/h is a dangerous speed for anyone wearing cycling gear.
    Take care of yourself.

    Where are people getting batteries from nowadays?
    I want to build one from scratch with a BMS.

    Any reputable sources for 18650?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,741 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    Absolutely burned past a couple of those rental ebikes on a big hill today so my kuma must be half decent at least.

    What's the deal with charging ebike batteries? I always try to run it down before charging. Should I do that or can I just top it up as needed?
    Or does it not really matter at all?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,462 ✭✭✭✭WoollyRedHat


    Can anyone recommend a good cover for battery port, to prevent water damage?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,572 ✭✭✭Skill Magill


    I never let the battery run down to zero if I can help it and always charge when the battery is cooled down and indoors. Once charged, I unlug the battery from the charger (rather than leaving it attached to the charger and unplugging that from the wall)
    Think thats best practice, but I'm open to correction

    Actually this paraphrases what they say on the Brompton site

    Worth a quick look through


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    always charge when the battery is cooled down and indoors. Once charged, I unlug the battery from the charger (rather than leaving it attached to the charger and unplugging that from the wall)
    Think thats best practice, but I'm open to correction

    You will need some correction. There is no need to unplug the charger when charging is finished. Unlike lead acid, lithium chargers only charge up to the full voltage and never any more. When the batteries are full, there is simply zero current from the charger to the batteries. Same as it not being connected at all :D

    I wouldn't charge indoors though, if you mean inside your house. Lithium ion 18650 battery cells are pretty unsafe things that can cause fires. I charge mine in the shed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    Mousewar wrote: »
    What's the deal with charging ebike batteries? I always try to run it down before charging. Should I do that or can I just top it up as needed?

    Top up as needed is theoretically better. Lithium ion battery cell only ever charged between 25% and 75% SOC at a constant ambient temp of 21C will last 50-100 years and still have near half the original capacity
    Mousewar wrote: »
    Or does it not really matter at all?

    See my answer above, it matters very little really unless you want your battery to last 20 years :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,939 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Mousewar wrote: »
    Absolutely burned past a couple of those rental ebikes on a big hill today so my kuma must be half decent at least.

    What's the deal with charging ebike batteries? I always try to run it down before charging. Should I do that or can I just top it up as needed?
    Or does it not really matter at all?

    I'm assuming you're using lithium batteries, if not then you should probably disregard what I'm about to tell you

    This is based on best practices for using and charging an electric vehicle but the principles should be the same

    Lithium batteries have a certain cycle count before they begin to lose a significant amount of capacity.

    Depleting the battery and charging to full will give you something like 600 cycles before it's badly degraded. This should sound familiar if you've ever had a smartphone where the battery is wrecked after 2-3 years

    Depending on how you use the battery, you can dramatically extend the lifetime of it. For example electric vehicle batteries can last 8 years without significant degredation now

    The two best things you can do would be to not deplete the battery to zero before charging, and not leave the battery fully charged

    If possible, try to recharge the battery when it's still not 20% left to avoid a deep discharge

    Also, if you can stop the charge at 80% that will increase the lifetime. If you need to charge to 100%, then try to do it just before you use the bike so the battery isn't sitting at full charge for a long time. Don't leave the battery connected to the charger after it's charged

    Similar to people, batteries don't like being too hot or cold. I'd recommend bringing the battery inside if the bike is kept outdoors or in a shed. Makes it less likely to be stolen as well

    Discharge rate can also affect battery lifetime, especially in cold weather. How much power you can safely draw from a battery depends on the cell type, but to be conservative you should probably not try to draw more power than the battery capacity.

    So if you have a 100Wh battery, then you'll want to try and avoid drawing more than 100W for an extended period of time

    In other words, try to back off the assistance levels as much as you can. It'll be good for your health as well as your battery health :)

    EDIT: One last thing, if you're ever leaving the battery for a while unused (a week or more) it's probably best to get it to 50% charge. This is how they're stored in warehouses for long periods of time

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,741 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    Thanks for the posts. Very useful.
    I don't have a shed though so I'll have to carry on charging in the house. Won't leave it over night though anymore.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,939 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Mousewar wrote: »
    Thanks for the posts. Very useful.
    I don't have a shed though so I'll have to carry on charging in the house. Won't leave it over night though anymore.

    I guess as Unkel said, top up as you need to, if you're using the bike for commuting then it'll probably need a charge every day or so

    There's not much point in not charging one evening because you've 40% battery and running out of battery the next day

    If the bike is for weekend spins, then probably best to try and get the battery to 50% after the weekend cycle and then top it up before the next cycle. This'll avoid it sitting too high or low during the week

    So how you charge depends a lot on how you use the bike

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    @the_amazing_raisin - you have some general logic right, but I disagree with a lot of what you are saying there.

    Don't charge inside your house if you can avoid it. Not very safe. Also all shop bought batteries have a BMS. It will not let you discharge the battery to dangerously low levels causing harm. And even if you didn't have a BMS, the bike's controller also has a fairly safe low voltage cut off. It's also no problem to charge a lithium battery to 100% and leave it sit for a bit, a few days is no problem at all

    And the story about the phone batteries is that you usually have only one cell, it's a numbers game, a lot of phones have multiple cycles per day, so after 3 years they would have had 1000-2000 cycles, which means a severe reduction in capacity. Does that matter? Of course not, the phone is pretty much obsolete after 3 years and most people would have upgraded well before then

    Same with bike batteries, but for most people even daily commuters, 1000 cycles (pardon the punch) would mean 4-5 years or even way more. Do you really want them to last 20 years? Waste of your efforts really. And in particular I find that with discharging. Do you really want to carry a 1kW battery with you if you want 1000W power out of your bike regularly? Of course not. The battery will be toast anyway after 4-5 years, much better to buy a 500Wh battery and discharge the hell out of it, and just buy another 500Wh battery after 2-3 years. Cheaper this way and lighter too...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,939 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    @unkel, yeah fair enough, no need to agonise over whether you charged the battery when it's at 20% or 40%. If you need to charge then charge.

    I wouldn't fully trust the BMS to protect the batteries longevity, it's more designed to stop immediate damage.

    I wouldn't want to regularly run the bike down to 0% if I can avoid it, but at the same time I'm not going to lose any sleep over it

    Good point about charging indoors, it should be safe if the battery and charger is from a reputable company, but given some of the garbage that's going around these days better to play it safe if you can. Definitely wouldn't leave it charging while I'm asleep, too much energy stored in that battery

    I guess I'm trying to get the idea that if you get into some good habits then you'll get 5 years easily and maybe more. I think that's a reasonable lifetime for an ebike battery

    I suspect there's a few ebikes that are regularly put on charge on Sunday and left until the following Saturday. Do that for a couple of years and you'll definitely see some battery degredation

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65,741 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    I suspect there's a few ebikes that are regularly put on charge on Sunday and left until the following Saturday. Do that for a couple of years and you'll definitely see some battery degredation

    Oh of course, no argument there. My point is that if you spend huge money on a big expensive battery from say a shop, you'd want to treat it well to make it last 4-5 years. Personally I'd rather spend 75% less, don't care about the battery, abuse it, and still get 2-3 years out of it :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,462 ✭✭✭✭WoollyRedHat


    Can anyone recommend a good cover for battery port, to prevent water damage?

    Does anyone know?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,572 ✭✭✭Skill Magill


    Does anyone know?

    Could you expand a little? Perhaps a photo of the battery port? Mine is detacheable and has a cover that you just press over the charging port to stop water ingress. This is what mine looks like

    VSD1JTK.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 373 ✭✭JimmyCorkhill


    Out of interest (say taking the Kuma R1 for example), how much would a new battery cost and how often would it need to be replaced? Is it every couple of years or after say 20,000km for example?

    In relation to the wheels/tyres - are they normal bike wheels/tyres? Or are they more expensive?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,462 ✭✭✭✭WoollyRedHat


    Could you expand a little? Perhaps a photo of the battery port? Mine is detacheable and has a cover that you just press over the charging port to stop water ingress. This is what mine looks like

    VSD1JTK.jpg

    Thanks, it's actually the pin port on the bike frame I'm referring to that the battery clicks into.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭cc


    Thanks, it's actually the pin port on the bike frame I'm referring to that the battery clicks into.

    On my R1 there's a little plastic cover that seals over the charge port on the frame.

    On a side note, it looks like if you press the up and down buttons at the same time for a couple of seconds you can adjust the max speed assist up to about 40 kph. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,968 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    SCOL wrote: »
    you could use a actual drink container, fill it with the tools you need.
    Magzire wrote: »
    Since i have rivet nuts under the frame i was thinking it be a good spot to have a spare tube and tools. Anyone know something like a bag holder that will go into a drink holder mount?
    I see what looks like a tool bag that fits in an included bottle holder in Aldi this week, lots of good bike stuff there anyway...

    https://leaflets.aldi.ie/view/876489109/6/


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭jamesieliz


    cc wrote: »
    On my R1 there's a little plastic cover that seals over the charge port on the frame.

    On a side note, it looks like if you press the up and down buttons at the same time for a couple of seconds you can adjust the max speed assist up to about 40 kph. Haven't had a chance to test it out yet properly.

    Have you been able to get the assist working up to 40kph ?
    I tried what you did and pushed up the number from 25 to 40, but I still think the motor stops assisting at 25 ?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,462 ✭✭✭✭WoollyRedHat


    Does anyone know a good place to buy a mobile phone holder?


  • Registered Users Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Does anyone know a good place to buy a mobile phone holder?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072XNFFH3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    using this one, its great


  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭SCOL


    Just pass the 70HR mark riding by Bafang mid Drive commuting to work.
    :D I wonder how much it has save me on fuel for the car


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 117 ✭✭dkd21


    Has anyone have experience of a Bafang BBS02 and a Bafang geared hub motor , like for like volt/watt ratings ?

    Weighing up the pros and cons of each currently


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,741 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    jamesieliz wrote: »
    Have you been able to get the assist working up to 40kph ?
    I tried what you did and pushed up the number from 25 to 40, but I still think the motor stops assisting at 25 ?

    After you increase the value, hold down the on/off button until the screen resets to normal. That worked for me on my m1.

    The on/off button actually scrolls through 3 different screens once you're into that maintenance area. The second one displays 700c. When you press up it changes to 27.5n and then 28n. Then the numbers get lower until you get back to 700c. Not sure what any of that means.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 9 johnjohnjohn


    Hi, has anyone got a recommendation for an off road type e-bike for a budget no more than 1500? ive been looking at this one below. has anyone any thoughts on the one below? is 1500 a crap budget for an off road e-bike? has to cycle to work scheme also. TIA
    https://rks-ebikes.com/shop/ols/products/cd15-coming-soon


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,678 ✭✭✭Selik


    Any thoughts on this bike? Looking at getting two for myself and the missus to toss in the car and hit various greenways etc this summer. We both have normal bikes for trips in Dublin, commuting etc. So these would be for leisurely mainly....

    https://radpowerbikes.eu/products/radmini-electric-folding-fat-bike?variant=32082365644893

    Have looked at plenty of options (Volt, Tern etc) and this seems to fit the bill best in terms of cost, features etc..... lots of good reviews and I really like the fat wheels for potentially going a bit off the beaten track.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,939 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Hi, has anyone got a recommendation for an off road type e-bike for a budget no more than 1500? ive been looking at this one below. has anyone any thoughts on the one below? is 1500 a crap budget for an off road e-bike? has to cycle to work scheme also. TIA
    https://rks-ebikes.com/shop/ols/products/cd15-coming-soon

    I don't own one, but Decathlon have a couple which get good reviews

    https://www.decathlon.ie/en/e-bikes-sport-trail-men/310922-74451-275quote-electric-mountain-bike-e-st-500-v2-blackslashblue.html

    https://www.decathlon.ie/en/e-bikes-sport-trail-men/309736-72689-275quote-e-st-100-electric-mountain-bike-blue.html

    As far as I can tell, the main difference between the EST 100 and 500 is the 500 has a bigger battery and torque sensing assist rather than speed sensing

    I'm not knowledgeable of these things but apparently the torque based one feels more natural. So if your budget stretches to the 500 then maybe that's worthwhile

    Personally I'm hoping to get the 500 next year, when I have some use for it

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,293 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    If you can I'd say stretch for the €1,700 one. The hydraulic discs are a big upgrade over mechanical, much better braking power and more control over mechanical brakes, a must for any off roading and better braking in the wet. Also the Rockshox fork is likely to hold up better over time and better quality. My old MTB had a Suntour fork that was awful which ended up leaking, replaced it with the same Rockshox and it was a much nicer fork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,543 ✭✭✭tinner777




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭mobfromcork


    Has anyone converted a smaller wheeled bike - 24 inch maybe? I travel to work/school with my nearly 10 year old daughter who is a strong cyclist for her age. We could cycle along a river tow path the whole way (about 15km) but the wind and sometimes the terrain can make it harder for her - especially if we were under pressure for time. Was considering an electric kit to make those bits easier. Don't want to spend huge money on an electric bike for her as she'll outgrow it before long but if there was a kit that I could get for her current bike it might be doable. Has anyone gone this route with a smaller bike?


  • Registered Users Posts: 448 ✭✭SCOL


    buy a kit and as she gets bigger move the kit to the new bike.

    Maybe a front wheel hub kit might be the best option.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 Dunder2000


    Can anyone advise me on how a Kuma compares with the Van Moof S3? Have had to send an S3 back because of glitches and want something that can be maintained/fixed in Ireland. Is the Kuma as good/better, if so which model - M1 or R1 is the better option?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,741 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    Dunder2000 wrote: »
    Can anyone advise me on how a Kuma compares with the Van Moof S3? Have had to send an S3 back because of glitches and want something that can be maintained/fixed in Ireland. Is the Kuma as good/better, if so which model - M1 or R1 is the better option?

    I've an M1 and I love it but don;t have experience of other ebikes. I opted for Kuma ahead of Vanmoof for the reason you stated. I wanted something I could get fixed here in Ireland.
    The R1 has about half the torque of the M1 so I'd say that's very noticeable. 40nm vs 80nm would be a big difference. Batterywise, the new R1 seems to have a 500w battery so presumably lasts as long as the M1 now. That probably also explains why the new R1 is heavier than its predecessor. The lightweight nature of the R1 was a good selling point but the new version is 20kg - still light for an ebike but I believe the previous model was as low as 17kg.

    Kuma are great - go out and test ride the two of them and see what you like.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 Dunder2000


    Thanks for that - much appreciated


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