Insulation\Heating for 1980's bungalow

Sefo

Hi,
I am looking to improve the insulation and heating on a 90sqm 1980's dormer bungalow that i have just bought in Dublin.
It is of 9" hollow block construction with an old oil boiler and the BER is D2.

I had a pre-purchase survey done and the surveyor advised the following:

-External walls internal face throughout this house be covered with a 72.5mm thick Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard with a plaster skim finish. This will give the external walls a heat insulation factor comparable to current Heat Insulation Standards.
Approx. Cost € 4,000.
- Vents in External walls required in the 3 bedrooms and bathroom for ventilation. Condensation marks noted to walls of front ground floor bedroom due to the absence of ventilation.
Approx. Cost €350.
- Roof attic insulation between the ceiling joists in the attic composed of 4" thick fiberglass. I recommend fitting an additional layer of 8" thick fiberglass insulation over to give a total of 12" to give the main roof of this house a heat insulation factor comparable with current Heat Insulation Standards, together with upgrading the insulation to the roof voids either side.
Approx. Cost €700.
- Radiators: all of them should be bled.
- Gas fired condensing boiler 95% efficient, wall mounted with external flue will vastly cut down on hot water and heating costs.
Approx. Cost €2,500.

I seen online where you can also pump insulation foam into the hollow blocks (http://premierinsulations.com/nine-inch-hollow-block-insulation) - would this or the Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard be better?

SC024

Sefo wrote: »

Hi,
I am looking to improve the insulation and heating on a 90sqm 1980's dormer bungalow that i have just bought in Dublin.
It is of 9" hollow block construction with an old oil boiler and the BER is D2.

I had a pre-purchase survey done and the surveyor advised the following:

-External walls internal face throughout this house be covered with a 72.5mm thick Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard with a plaster skim finish. This will give the external walls a heat insulation factor comparable to current Heat Insulation Standards.
Approx. Cost € 4,000.
- Vents in External walls required in the 3 bedrooms and bathroom for ventilation. Condensation marks noted to walls of front ground floor bedroom due to the absence of ventilation.
Approx. Cost €350.
- Roof attic insulation between the ceiling joists in the attic composed of 4" thick fiberglass. I recommend fitting an additional layer of 8" thick fiberglass insulation over to give a total of 12" to give the main roof of this house a heat insulation factor comparable with current Heat Insulation Standards, together with upgrading the insulation to the roof voids either side.
Approx. Cost €700.
- Radiators: all of them should be bled.
- Gas fired condensing boiler 95% efficient, wall mounted with external flue will vastly cut down on hot water and heating costs.
Approx. Cost €2,500.

I seen online where you can also pump insulation foam into the hollow blocks (http://premierinsulations.com/nine-inch-hollow-block-insulation) - would this or the Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard be better?

No you'll have a big coldbridge at each end & in the centre of every single block. Kingspan insulated slabs far better or external wall insulation the rools royce job with a rolls royce price.

sydthebeat

Sefo wrote: »

I seen online where you can also pump insulation foam into the hollow blocks (http://premierinsulations.com/nine-inch-hollow-block-insulation) - would this or the Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard be better?

ask to see the NSAI cert for pumping foam into the cavities of hollow block....

Markcheese

You'll need a lot lot less heating if you end up doing the external insulation (so you might get away with replacing the boiler later) , plus you won't have to redecorate inside, immediately...

Sefo

SC024 wrote: »

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No you'll have a big coldbridge at each end & in the centre of every single block. Kingspan insulated slabs far better or external wall insulation the rools royce job with a rolls royce price.

Thanks SC024. The house is 3 bedrooms, sitting room, kitchen and bathroom. There is a grant when doing the internal insulation with an SEAI approved builder. I wonder if i did put up the Kingspan insulated plasterboard myself would it work out a lot cheaper than paying a builder and getting the grant?

Sefo

Markcheese wrote: »

You'll need a lot lot less heating if you end up doing the external insulation (so you might get away with replacing the boiler later) , plus you won't have to redecorate inside, immediately...

Thanks Markcheese, would getting the external insulation done cost about twice the price of internal insulation. The dormer bungalow is about 90sqm with 3 bedrooms, sitting room, kitchen and bathroom.

Calahonda52

Dormers a nightmare to retro effectively.

My wooly hat wooly jumper/windbreaker approach:

EWI, with new windows fitted to the outside face of wall before the ewi gets fitted.
insulate the roof rafters, complete with airtightness layer, bring insulation down to meet EWI
MHVR
.
.
what are the floor like?

Sefo

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Dormers a nightmare to retro effectively.

My wooly hat wooly jumper/windbreaker approach:

EWI, with new windows fitted to the outside face of wall before the ewi gets fitted.
insulate the roof rafters, complete with airtightness layer, bring insulation down to meet EWI
MHVR
.
.
what are the floor like?

Thanks Calahonda52, i presume by EWI you mean external insulation and also you mention Mechanical Ventilation with Heat Recovery - if i had the budget i would try to get the heat and insulation to this high standard but i think i would have to go somewhere in between this and where i am now.

The windows are about 10 years old double glazed pvc so i would hope to keep these. The first floor is flooring grade chipboard on suspended timber joists.
The ground floor is concrete on compacted hardcore.
My surveyor advised for the internal face of all external walls be covered with a 72.5mm Kingspan insulation backed plasterboard. The attic has 100mm fibreglass and he advised adding another 200mm.

Calahonda52

Yep I read his suggestions, as someone who lived in a dormer for 25 years, lazy suggestions that really won't work in a dormer because the airtightness [A/T] layer is a b.....d
You will have a A/T problem with the suspended floor as my bet is the joists are embedded in the wall a bit and the block-work is not rendered

SC024

Sefo wrote: »

Thanks SC024. The house is 3 bedrooms, sitting room, kitchen and bathroom. There is a grant when doing the internal insulation with an SEAI approved builder. I wonder if i did put up the Kingspan insulated plasterboard myself would it work out a lot cheaper than paying a builder and getting the grant?

I think it very may well do, if you got someone to skim it for you anyways right on price. maybe a friend or someone you know to do it on saturday's / evenings perhaps... You'd probably save money.