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Thoughts on Mercedes E220 Coupe

2

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Anyone know if it's possible to upgrade the dim/full headlights to LED? I know very little of this, so I don't know if it's just a bulb replacement or a kit I need, and if it's a kit if it's even available? I tried to Google, and prices were coming back at over €1k for a single headlamp!
    The problem is that all modern cars have an electrical system called a "CANBUS", its a bit like a spiders web, or human nervous system...everything is interlinked and controlled by computers. So even a small job like replacing brake light bulb, the computer has "accept" the new bulb into the system, and that's replacing like with like. Replacing the existing lights with LED, would be a bit more involved, I imagine, but I'll check it out.

    Also, it's the small quality of life improvements that make this car. I'm in awe of the seat belts that come to you, due to it being so far behind the seat. Controlling the audio with the little dial button on the center console, all stalks being on the 1 side (granted, the wrong side, the left, but it's not a Jap car so expected), only 2 stalks total (1 for cruise, the second for lights and wipers), lights that automatically go on when it gets dark enough, auto-wipers, washer jets that actually spread the water instead of a single jet from each, the auto handbrake that doesn't actually engage but stops you from rolling back... All things I never previously had!

    Yes, but you quickly get very used to them...just give it a bit of time, and then try driving something else !! Only then will you truly appreciate the Merc. I like very much when you are travelling up/down hill and have to stop at the traffic lights...just tap the brake a 2nd time, and it goes into "HOLD"...tap the pedal again, and off you go,,,seamlessly. They really reduce the amount of input required from the driver. Have you tried the parking assist yet?

    But, she does not like city driving at all. Getting about 20 mpg city driving, about 40 on primary/secondary roads, and a heft 48+ on motorways. She's also not designed for running as cheap as possible, which suits me fine. I'll pay the extra for the pure driving pleasure I'm getting!

    Yes, it's designed for the wide open spaces.....120 Kph all day long on the speed limiter and its in its element. I'm getting 6/7 ltrs per 100 Klms, normally, but it can go up to 9 /10 ltrs per 100 Klms too, but then I use a trailer occasionally, so that's to be expected. I would not be putting up very high mileage at this point, so like you, I don't mind paying a little more...the pleasure of driving it more than makes up for the additional cost.

    As long as she lasts the 5 years for me! And I'm already looking at my next car, which will be another Mercedes Coupe, but one with a bigger engine (and still somehow cheaper tax).

    And why not? I'm sure that the car will be more than up to the challenge...keep the oil and filter's changed, and you should be OK. I'm not planning on changing mine anytime soon either, but in the event that I would have to.....a Coupe would definitely be on the list !! and it now has 222000 Klms on the clock. Biggest threat to your ( and my) plans is not the car..it's Leo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Might leave the headlights be so, sounds like too much work tbh!

    I've encountered my first issue, and it's apparantly well known in the coupe/cabrio versions, the sills under the doors are collecting water. You can hear it sloshing back and forth as you move slowly. There's 4 screws in the jack points that have large black plastic screws, had to remove them and about 5 liters of water came out between both sides. This was 2 days ago. Pulled into work tonight and heard the water again. Must be a blockage somewhere...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Might leave the headlights be so, sounds like too much work tbh!

    I've encountered my first issue, and it's apparantly well known in the coupe/cabrio versions, the sills under the doors are collecting water. You can hear it sloshing back and forth as you move slowly. There's 4 screws in the jack points that have large black plastic screws, had to remove them and about 5 liters of water came out between both sides. This was 2 days ago. Pulled into work tonight and heard the water again. Must be a blockage somewhere...

    I don't have any particular info on this with MB, but water trapped in sill panels is nothing new. Best thing to do would be to get it on a lift, and examine the sill for possible ingress point's, and blocked drain holes. In some cars, directly under the windscreen you have a panel ( scuttle panel ) running the with of the car. Sometimes these panel's are slotted to allow air into the interior ( Air-Con etc) and water falling through the slots drops onto another panel ( box ) lower down which in turn drains via plastic piping down and out on to the road. ( some times these tubes block, and water levels build up until you get water coming into the actual car itself, but this is not your problem ) The front wheels especially, can act as a pump and spray water under the wheel arches, and this is a possible source of the water you are finding in you sill panel's. The lift is your best option.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    I don't think it's a case of anything else wrong, just the sill drains being somewhat blocked. I can still see some lines of water as I reverse out of the drive, so it is coming out, but not as quick as it should. Definitely got it all out the other day, but it's filling up again and I didn't really drive since emptying it, maybe an hour most.

    As you said, get it up on a lift and check for any blockages. Not a big problem, more annoying than anything. Wonder if the warranty covers that...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I don't think it's a case of anything else wrong, just the sill drains being somewhat blocked. I can still see some lines of water as I reverse out of the drive, so it is coming out, but not as quick as it should. Definitely got it all out the other day, but it's filling up again and I didn't really drive since emptying it, maybe an hour most.

    As you said, get it up on a lift and check for any blockages. Not a big problem, more annoying than anything. Wonder if the warranty covers that...

    I don't know how you are fixed with the Guarantee..you have it 3 mths already? ( if you had only a 3 mth guarnatee that is ) But give it a try anyway....not a big job..up on the lift, good torch, check the drains. I'm sur that with the volume you are talking about, will not take long to find the blockages.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Still have a few weeks left on the warranty, got it the middle of August or thereabouts. Should be something small I'd imagine, not too worried about it tbh.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Still have a few weeks left on the warranty, got it the middle of August or thereabouts. Should be something small I'd imagine, not too worried about it tbh.

    Well, aside from the annoyance of it, water sloshing around in metal box panels is never a good thing, if there is any weakness in the sealant, it will find it, and down the road, will cause rust. The first you will know about is you will see little bubbles of rust appearing externally on the panels, but by then, the damage will have been done, and it's an expensive fix.Its nothing to worry about at the moment, I'm sure as its only recently that you have noticed it ? 15-30 mins on the lift will sort it out for you. ( unless you want to jack it up yourself on axle stands and have a look? ) No need to rush, but if I were you, I would not put it on the long finger either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Oh I won't leave it go, working nights in a new job so once I have a few days off I'll jack her up and have a look, failing that I'll bring it to my mechanic or back to the garage that sold it. As you said, just annoying right now but I know water and metal don't like each other!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Oh I won't leave it go, working nights in a new job so once I have a few days off I'll jack her up and have a look, failing that I'll bring it to my mechanic or back to the garage that sold it. As you said, just annoying right now but I know water and metal don't like each other!

    This might help you:-
    two black rubber grommets at the rear of the sills just behind the jacking point which he removed and clear water came gushing out. He explained that they have a small hole in the centre to let water out but they get blocked hence sill fills full of water. He said they are designed to let water through which surprised me, he recommended leaving the grommets out.
    Above excerpt is from a Mercedes Benz forum that I'm a member of.
    So now you will know where to look...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Yurt, I remember seeing them the other day, I'll have a look during the day tomorrow. Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Update!

    I could never find what ye were talking about, so I took the 4 large plastic screws out of the jack points and haven't heard water since. I'll throw them back in coming closer to the summer.

    13/08 I sent a query to Motor Tax about the classification of my car. They have it in the 155-170g/km range (nearly the same as the E350 only just over half the capacity!), and all I can find is max 149g/km going by Mercedes and a few other sites. Motor Tax got back to me on 14/08 stating it's recorded as 163g/km and advised it's Revenue who decide this.

    So I got onto Revenue, and after a few months, they only got back to me today to advise it's sent to the relevant department. Tax renewal is the end of the month, so I better get a reply before then! Can't wait to see how they justify it, but I also reckon I'm going to have to fork out £120 to get the original e-Coc from Mercedes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Update!

    I could never find what ye were talking about, so I took the 4 large plastic screws out of the jack points and haven't heard water since. I'll throw them back in coming closer to the summer.

    :rolleyes:I am doing an oil / filter change on mine tomorrow, and I'll check out the sill panel drains, and let you know.;)

    13/08 I sent a query to Motor Tax about the classification of my car. They have it in the 155-170g/km range (nearly the same as the E350 only just over half the capacity!), and all I can find is max 149g/km going by Mercedes and a few other sites. Motor Tax got back to me on 14/08 stating it's recorded as 163g/km and advised it's Revenue who decide this.

    So I got onto Revenue, and after a few months, they only got back to me today to advise it's sent to the relevant department. Tax renewal is the end of the month, so I better get a reply before then! Can't wait to see how they justify it, but I also reckon I'm going to have to fork out £120 to get the original e-Coc from Mercedes.

    The assessments for motor tax as per emissions seems to be all over the place with Mercedes cars....( probably the same with other makes too !!! )
    Mine is rated at 145 CO2 Emission level, "C", and "only" €390.00 per year, Could be worse I suppose,,E class estates seem to attract a higher tax band, even with what seems to be the same OM651 engine...the E 200 and E 220, are the same engine, but the E220 is mapped for higher output. We will see how you get on.
    Apart from that, how are you enjoying it? :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    I'm hoping they come back with some BS excuse, and I will pay the money to Mercedes to get the official figure if needs be. Government could be due to refund a lot of people if this turns out to be a scam. I'll ensure it gets media attention, between that and the VRT for EU cars is a joke.

    But yeah, absolutely love it. I'm smiling behind the wheel the vast majority of the time. Can't wait for the decent weather to drive with the windows down, it looks savage with all 4 down! I believe I'm a Merc man for life now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,061 ✭✭✭kirving


    jmreire wrote: »
    the same OM651 engine...the E 200 and E 220, are the same engine, but the E220 is mapped for higher output.

    All the same engine, but as far as I know, the 200 has only a single turbo, while the 220 and 250 have two in a sequential setup.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    All the same engine, but as far as I know, the 200 has only a single turbo, while the 220 and 250 have two in a sequential setup.

    Yes that's true. Mine is the single turbo 200, and it's fine for me, but if I was changing, and a 220,250 or 350 came along, i would take one of these too.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Question for those with the same/similar car and auto transmission, when you start the car and put it into P with the handbrake still on, does the car try to move, the dash changes to red and warns you that you've left the parking brake on?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Question for those with the same/similar car and auto transmission, when you start the car and put it into P with the handbrake still on, does the car try to move, the dash changes to red and warns you that you've left the parking brake on?[/QUOTEI

    Should not be any attempt to move in "P",, and if you don't have the footbrake firmly pressed when moving from "P" to "D", expect it "slap" and attempt to move.Failing to switch off the handbrake, will cause the red dash lights to come on, that's normal. Should not be able to move in "P" though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Oh yeah, that's all good. Just someone on another thread was saying that when it's in D with the handbrake it shouldn't move, and I was pointing out that it tries to move in mine. Doesn't move at all in P, thankfully! And I can see I said P instead of D, my bad!

    Cheers!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Oh yeah, that's all good. Just someone on another thread was saying that when it's in D with the handbrake it shouldn't move, and I was pointing out that it tries to move in mine. Doesn't move at all in P, thankfully! And I can see I said P instead of D, my bad!

    Cheers!

    Once it's in "D" it's in move mode...handbrake on or off.....and unless your handbrake is in good condition, it WILL move,as the engine will be able to over comecome a faulty handbrake. Also, once you move the lever to "N", it will free wheel up or down hill, depending on the hill, and the direction the car is facing... I nearly got caught with that one shortly after getting the car...now it's never in "N".
    BTW, I checked the sill panel when I was doing the oil change, and the two rubbers ( they are called "Grommets ") are the drain plugs, they just unscrew. I must take out mine sometime, and check. I'd imagine thought that they should drain themselves...you should not have to remove them.....easy enough to drill a hole in them, and let nature take it's course, But only on the rear ones...the front one's I'd leave alone because of the jets of water picked up from the front wheel's.
    Passed the NCT this week, until Jan 2022. Failed on the handbrake ( I thought it might) So new set of brake shoes, retest next day, and it sailed through it.
    Actually, you don't get the full 2 years, as to qualify, you must do the test outside the 3 mth deadline. So while mine, if I had to follow the original "Birthday" would be 10 years old on 12th April ( 4 months time) Because of the 3 month rule, I had to have it done before 12th January, so now, it's new "Birthday" will be January 10 !!! I guess that this rule was introduced to stop the avalanche of NCT tests that would be applied for 2 or 3 weeks before the 10 year " Birthday" calendar wise.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    I've a new problem! To do with the heating. Drove to Cork today and worked fine. Stopped for an hour and when I got back in it was all fogged up, usual with the current weather.

    Turned on the windscreen clear button, fan displays max and usually get the loud fan sound. Today, nothing. Manually putting up the heat, nothing. Same with cold. After a while, it worked for about 2 min and stopped again.

    I'm thinking a sensor or something is gone. Any ideas?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    I've a new problem! To do with the heating. Drove to Cork today and worked fine. Stopped for an hour and when I got back in it was all fogged up, usual with the current weather.

    Turned on the windscreen clear button, fan displays max and usually get the loud fan sound. Today, nothing. Manually putting up the heat, nothing. Same with cold. After a while, it worked for about 2 min and stopped again.

    I'm thinking a sensor or something is gone. Any ideas?

    iCarsoft OBD scan. Otherwise, you will try this and try that, but a scan will pinpoint the fault. For anyone buying a car ( any car ) and if you are anyway mechanically minded and handy with your hand's, I 'd recommend they include the price of an OBD reader with the purchase, it will pay for itself in no time, and can always be sold on later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Turns out the problem with my heating does appear to be the fan blower motor. Not working at all now, but having barely driven it for a few weeks I wasn't 100% on it.

    It's also cutting out after starting from cold if I don't leave it idle for 5-10 minutes. Doesn't even have to be a cold day. Started it today at 3.30pm after 2 days of being parked up. Starts fine, put it into R or D and the revs will drop very low and cut out. Only happens after a certain amount of time not driven.

    Not a great time to be having issues!! Still love it. That'll never change. Amazing car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,125 ✭✭✭pcardin


    Does take some getting used to alright, but nowhere near as much as the 02 E220 Saloon I had. Loved that car and started my love of Mercedes, so delighted to have this now.

    I'm waiting on the log book, but I'm pretty sure it's the 2010 E220 CDI Coupe 2.1, auto. And the transmission does appear to affect it. There were 2 2010 E220s there that I was looking at:

    E220 CDI Manual - €280py
    E220 CDI Auto - €380py
    E220 CDI Auto Coupe - €570py

    Exact same engine in all 3, same type too (CDI BlueEfficiency). Makes no sense, and anything I can read on the internet regarding this car says the emissions should be 137g/km, which puts it into the €280py band. Going to look further into it, but waiting on the log book to get the exact model. Trying to register for My Mercedes too, but don't have the VIN handy to check it. Closest I can find is the E400 Petrol coming in at 161g/km.

    Seats in mine are immaculate, no idea what type but there isn't even a blemish on the interior. Even the drivers seat shows very little usage tbh, and with 200k kms I was expecting some wear, but no, previous owner (female) looked after it well. Had someone check the car just now and they believe the scraping sound is a new brake disc just easing into itself. I'll give it a week and if it's still making noise I'll bring it back, as that was the only point I made before agreeing to purchase.

    And even the minor blemishes you'd have to look for, you can't immediately see it when checking it out. As you said, some is to be expected on a 9 year old car, but this far exceeds what I was expecting. Probably the cleanest car I've ever owned, and I owned a 02 in 08 (Galant, loved it!).

    Road tax on mine is €570, but as I said, I'm going to look into that. Don't have much hopes as it's literally challenging the government, but I'm struggling to find where they got the 167g/km from, even teh AMG versions don't go that high (most of them, some petrol ones do). I've a feeling it's like the RX7/8 where they see a sporty looking car and just up the tax because of it. Who knows! Don't even know where to start tbh, think I'll need to get an emissions test. But going to ask Mercedes for the factory reading too.

    I'm really happy to have it, I just hope it doesn't fail on me! Shouldn't with the history and care...

    yes, strange variations alright. I was looking for a E220 Coupe myself but at the end went for CLS instead (still like the look of E coupe). Mine is 2011 and 250 Cdi BlueEfficiency and tax is 280 per year. Not sure why is yours 570 as technically my CLS is basically E class underneath.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Turns out the problem with my heating does appear to be the fan blower motor. Not working at all now, but having barely driven it for a few weeks I wasn't 100% on it.

    It's also cutting out after starting from cold if I don't leave it idle for 5-10 minutes. Doesn't even have to be a cold day. Started it today at 3.30pm after 2 days of being parked up. Starts fine, put it into R or D and the revs will drop very low and cut out. Only happens after a certain amount of time not driven.

    Not a great time to be having issues!! Still love it. That'll never change. Amazing car.

    Have you had it scanned yet??? It's the only way, really when the car behaves erratically. Whats happening with your's is not normal. I know people who only start and use the car once a week, but don't have the problem you describe.
    I use an iCarsoft CROPRO Diagnostic's Scanner, and it takes all the guesswork out of it. Problem develops, run a scan, fault code shows and you know straight away where you stand. My advice to you would be to get it scanned, in the 2 years that I have had mine, It has never behaved like that. ( touch wood, it won't either :) )


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,152 ✭✭✭26000 Elephants


    Stalling from cold is probably an idle control valve, but i cant see how it can be that without throwing up a warning light. Otherwise you have an undetermined vacuum leak somewhere, good luck finding that! As has already been suggested, get it scanned to be sure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Will have to splash on that scanner I reckon, what with garages all more or less closed now. It's going to be used even less now, so I'm making a habit of starting every day just in case until I can get it sorted. Cheers for the suggestions folks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Will have to splash on that scanner I reckon, what with garages all more or less closed now. It's going to be used even less now, so I'm making a habit of starting every day just in case until I can get it sorted. Cheers for the suggestions folks.

    Have a look at the iCarsoft range of scanners.....I started with the iCarsoft MB 11, It has served me very well, and I still use it, because while it will do a comprehensive range of scanning,and allow you to clear fault codes etc. it does not go "deep" enough to allow you to make important but damaging changes in the set up. Its very safe and easy to use.
    About 3 weeks ago, they had an offer on a more advanced scanner, the iCarsoft CRO-PRO, and I bought one. While it's MB specific, it has the capabilities to scan many different car's...to date, I've used it on Peugeot and Skoda's, with very good results. So it's better for me, as the family "Fleet" has Audi's, Skoda's, Peugeot, and of course my MB. plus what ever else may be in the future, so I fully expect it to pay for itself over time.
    PM me if you want more details.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Haven't posted in this is a while, said I'd give an update. Not an even road since the last post, but things going wrong are things that usually go and once replaced should be grand for another 200k.

    So what I've had done in the last 6 months:

    - 2 front swing arms (i think, aluminum things that are usually only on the back but on all 4 corners for this car)
    - 4 new tyres - see attached pic of one of the tyres!! I wouldn't have copped this only i was taking the wheels off to give them a proper clean behind - no idea what caused this and new tyres showing no issue with similar damage.
    - 1 of 3 sensors replaced in DPF. Hopefully won't have further issues. Tempted to have it removed and remap ECU - this was the above problem.
    - Just failed the NCT, all 4 brake lines/hoses "badly deteriorated", that's getting done next week, handbrake only at 10% on back right (strangely, doesn't look like they tested the emissions, 0 readings, but passed...)
    - Fan blower motor is gone

    And that brings me to a question, as I've googled and aside from taking the blower motor out, I'm confused. I can replace that myself, looks straight forward, but can't find a part number and mechanic mentioned something about ensuring the new one has the regulator. Anyone able to get me a PN for that?

    Still absolutely adore this car. Best car I've ever had, and even though I've close to 1500 spent in the last 6 months, it's still worth it. As I said, all issues which will hopefully be resolved for the remaining time I have this car (min 4 more years).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,518 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    ^ No pic

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Derp! Turns out I also deleted the pics so heres a screenshot from a video.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Haven't posted in this is a while, said I'd give an update. Not an even road since the last post, but things going wrong are things that usually go and once replaced should be grand for another 200k.

    So what I've had done in the last 6 months:

    - 2 front swing arms (i think, aluminum things that are usually only on the back but on all 4 corners for this car)
    - 4 new tyres - see attached pic of one of the tyres!! I wouldn't have copped this only i was taking the wheels off to give them a proper clean behind - no idea what caused this and new tyres showing no issue with similar damage.
    - 1 of 3 sensors replaced in DPF. Hopefully won't have further issues. Tempted to have it removed and remap ECU - this was the above problem.
    - Just failed the NCT, all 4 brake lines/hoses "badly deteriorated", that's getting done next week, handbrake only at 10% on back right (strangely, doesn't look like they tested the emissions, 0 readings, but passed...)
    - Fan blower motor is gone

    And that brings me to a question, as I've googled and aside from taking the blower motor out, I'm confused. I can replace that myself, looks straight forward, but can't find a part number and mechanic mentioned something about ensuring the new one has the regulator. Anyone able to get me a PN for that?

    Still absolutely adore this car. Best car I've ever had, and even though I've close to 1500 spent in the last 6 months, it's still worth it. As I said, all issues which will hopefully be resolved for the remaining time I have this car (min 4 more years).
    Believe it or not, but only today, I was wondering how you had been getting on since ( as you said) It's been awhile since you last posted about the Merc....and I even sent you a private msg enquiring about the car...but I sent it to the wrong Monk....:confused:.
    And then, Lo and Behold...a post appears !!! ;)
    I think that you have the right idea, about the car being worth spending money on...I'd feel the same I think, And as a matter of fact, I've upgraded from a 2010 to a 2014 E 220, that will tell you what I think about them now, after having one. Most of the problems you have had, hand brake, suspension arm's, uneven tyre wear , DPF sensor, etc, would be one off...car suspensions and Irish Roads are a marriage made in hell. But now you have them sorted, that should keep you going for awhile.. For your parts Nrs, try : PartsClub.info - Mercedes-Benz parts catalog from alternative manufacturers.
    Good Luck with it..:)


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]




    - Just failed the NCT, all 4 brake lines/hoses "badly deteriorated", that's getting done next week, handbrake only at 10% on back right (strangely, doesn't look like they tested the emissions, 0 readings, but passed...)
    - Fan blower motor is gone


    Still absolutely adore this car. Best car I've ever had, and even though I've close to 1500 spent in the last 6 months, it's still worth it. As I said, all issues which will hopefully be resolved for the remaining time I have this car (min 4 more years).


    Hey just read the whole thread. Great there is a recent update to it aswell.


    I'm thinking of changing from a 2006 petrol c class to a petrol w212. I have also just failed the NCT on corroded brake lines, I cant believe it's an issue on newer mercs too.
    Would you mind posting how much it costs for that. Apparently the job on my c class is a nightmare because of fuel tank. I'm interested to see what it is on yours, as if I get one it looks like it will have to be done in my ownership.


    Also, can you give me more info on these:
    Warranty - Overall thoughts/cost
    Did you consider a petrol?
    Parking. I am always in the city centre and multi story car parks. Will this car be a nightmare every week with that?


    Thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    FillaName wrote: »
    Hey just read the whole thread. Great there is a recent update to it aswell.


    I'm thinking of changing from a 2006 petrol c class to a petrol w212. I have also just failed the NCT on corroded brake lines, I cant believe it's an issue on newer mercs too.
    Would you mind posting how much it costs for that. Apparently the job on my c class is a nightmare because of fuel tank. I'm interested to see what it is on yours, as if I get one it looks like it will have to be done in my ownership.


    Also, can you give me more info on these:
    Warranty - Overall thoughts/cost
    Did you consider a petrol?
    Parking. I am always in the city centre and multi story car parks. Will this car be a nightmare every week with that?
    Thanks!

    The corroded brake lines and flexible hoses were more of a problem in the
    pre 2009 E class, and even more of a problem in the UK...( winter salting / gritting of the roads would have played a big part in that.) And I wonder if Potential Monkes Merc is an import? as its a W212. ( yours is a W211 ) The worn flexi pipes would be more age related, and can happen in any car, regardless of make or model. But nearly all these faults were ironed out in the 2009 W212 E class, so thats a bit strange. Otherwise how do you find your 2006 one? A friend has a 2005 1.8 Petrol, with mega miles on it, and absolutely no intention of getting rid of it ..pre covid -19, took it to Spain and elsewhere for the annual holidays. Only real problem he has with it is the SBC braking system. For parking, do you mean by size? Yes, you need to be a bit more carefull when parking in car parks,,,,especially multi story ones, but its not impossible either. How do you find it fuel consumption wise?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    jmreire wrote: »
    The corroded brake lines and flexible hoses were more of a problem in the
    pre 2009 E class, and even more of a problem in the UK...( winter salting / gritting of the roads would have played a big part in that.) And I wonder if Potential Monkes Merc is an import? as its a W212. ( yours is a W211 ) The worn flexi pipes would be more age related, and can happen in any car, regardless of make or model. But nearly all these faults were ironed out in the 2009 W212 E class, so thats a bit strange. Otherwise how do you find your 2006 one? A friend has a 2005 1.8 Petrol, with mega miles on it, and absolutely no intention of getting rid of it ..pre covid -19, took it to Spain and elsewhere for the annual holidays. Only real problem he has with it is the SBC braking system. For parking, do you mean by size? Yes, you need to be a bit more carefull when parking in car parks,,,,especially multi story ones, but its not impossible either. How do you find it fuel consumption wise?

    Mine is an UK import too actually. Although I think it was only there a few years when new. Could of been enough to start the damage though.

    My 2006 is great for what it is. I'm a fan of the 'Kompressor' experience and it came with the full AMG kit and a good few extras. Paint is still in great condition too.

    Apart from reverse sensors it still competes with newer cars inside too. Over the last year I averaged 10l/100km.
    The timing chain is the big issue on them and I have taken care of it. Because of this I'm afraid of burning myself by getting rid of a car that owes me nothing and is still a nice sporty drive!
    But I do like the e class coupes. It would not be until next year I would buy one if I was going to.

    What I was thinking of in a car park, is the length of the doors for squeezing out. But with so many SUVs around, is it the same as them?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    FillaName wrote: »
    Mine is an UK import too actually. Although I think it was only there a few years when new. Could of been enough to start the damage though.

    My 2006 is great for what it is. I'm a fan of the 'Kompressor' experience and it came with the full AMG kit and a good few extras. Paint is still in great condition too.

    Apart from reverse sensors it still competes with newer cars inside too. Over the last year I averaged 10l/100km.
    The timing chain is the big issue on them and I have taken care of it. Because of this I'm afraid of burning myself by getting rid of a car that owes me nothing and is still a nice sporty drive!
    But I do like the e class coupes. It would not be until next year I would buy one if I was going to.

    What I was thinking of in a car park, is the length of the doors for squeezing out. But with so many SUVs around, is it the same as them?

    Ah, yes I see what you mean now..its a Coupe, and it was one of the things I warned Potential Monke about when he was buying his one. I had my eye on a Coupe too...beautiful looking car's !!! and yes, in tight parking, for sure it will be difficult if you need to open the door fully...but having said that, you only need to open it enough for yourself to get in, and thats not a problem...its only when you need to give the rear seat passengers access that you will need to open the doors fully. So even if you are in a tight parking situation, you should still be able to access the drivers seat, start it up and move it forward / backward and give yourself enough room to open the doors for your passengers. it's not an insurmountable problem. Even with my E class, I am very carefull when parking, and in supermarkets, I'll go to the furthest parking space available,,,based on the assumption that people are naturally lazy, and will always try and keep walking to the minimum ;) Don't let the eparking stop you, if you come across a Coupe that you like. The only reason I changed mine was because they got in a lovely black MB estate, with AMG kit, and a 250 engine ( diesel ) and when I went to see it, it had already been sold. But as a consolation, the sales man gave me the keys of another MB that had come in,,,and just not to waste the trip, I drove it.......liked it and bought it, and no regrets. But until I saw the estate, I had absolutely no intention of getting out of the 2010 E class. What mileage is on it? They were and still are a fantastic car inside, and especially if AMG. It's the 1.8 Ltr 170 BHP Petrol engine in yours? Frequent oil changes are the secret in keeping the timing chains in good nick,,,was speaking to a fellow MB owner during the week, and he had a 2010 E class 2.i CDI Diesel that had done 270'000 + miles, and never a chain problem. He always used long life oil, but changed it religiously every 10'000 Klms. Its what I do too. Is it manual or automatic? My friend has absolutely no intention of getting rid of his 2005 E class. So I guess there is no panic for you to change...and worth waiting until the right car turns up.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    jmreire wrote: »
    Ah, yes I see what you mean now..its a Coupe, and it was one of the things I warned Potential Monke about when he was buying his one. I had my eye on a Coupe too...beautiful looking car's !!! and yes, in tight parking, for sure it will be difficult if you need to open the door fully...but having said that, you only need to open it enough for yourself to get in, and thats not a problem...its only when you need to give the rear seat passengers access that you will need to open the doors fully. So even if you are in a tight parking situation, you should still be able to access the drivers seat, start it up and move it forward / backward and give yourself enough room to open the doors for your passengers. it's not an insurmountable problem. Even with my E class, I am very carefull when parking, and in supermarkets, I'll go to the furthest parking space available,,,based on the assumption that people are naturally lazy, and will always try and keep walking to the minimum ;) Don't let the eparking stop you, if you come across a Coupe that you like. The only reason I changed mine was because they got in a lovely black MB estate, with AMG kit, and a 250 engine ( diesel ) and when I went to see it, it had already been sold. But as a consolation, the sales man gave me the keys of another MB that had come in,,,and just not to waste the trip, I drove it.......liked it and bought it, and no regrets. But until I saw the estate, I had absolutely no intention of getting out of the 2010 E class. What mileage is on it? They were and still are a fantastic car inside, and especially if AMG. It's the 1.8 Ltr 170 BHP Petrol engine in yours? Frequent oil changes are the secret in keeping the timing chains in good nick,,,was speaking to a fellow MB owner during the week, and he had a 2010 E class 2.i CDI Diesel that had done 270'000 + miles, and never a chain problem. He always used long life oil, but changed it religiously every 10'000 Klms. Its what I do too. Is it manual or automatic? My friend has absolutely no intention of getting rid of his 2005 E class. So I guess there is no panic for you to change...and worth waiting until the right car turns up.


    hanks for the info on parking. It does seem livable. I let people jump out now before reversing in so not too different to be honest.

    Funny I do the same parking method no matter whose car I am driving. Although once I was parked with a space each side of me when a "busy mum" pulled in next to me. Hits my car with the door gerring out - with me sitting in the car! I gave her a look and roll my eyes. No apology from her....then she takes her kid out of the back and hits my car again!

    Mine is high mileage, its 180k but the timing chain and sprockets have been done. Tax is high at 636 but it evens out with no car payments. Always seems to be something at NCT though, such as these brake lines. But I do like the drive and the sound of the supercharger when the foot goes down.

    I have attached a pic of my car and an example of what I am looking at. I did some work on paint restoration on mine so looks fresh and to be fair looks well for its age. There is just somerhing about those e class coupes that are classy and sporty. Have the itch to change but need to see how it pans out. Like monke it would be a long term change.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    FillaName wrote: »
    hanks for the info on parking. It does seem livable. I let people jump out now before reversing in so not too different to be honest.

    Funny I do the same parking method no matter whose car I am driving. Although once I was parked with a space each side of me when a "busy mum" pulled in next to me. Hits my car with the door gerring out - with me sitting in the car! I gave her a look and roll my eyes. No apology from her....then she takes her kid out of the back and hits my car again!

    Mine is high mileage, its 180k but the timing chain and sprockets have been done. Tax is high at 636 but it evens out with no car payments. Always seems to be something at NCT though, such as these brake lines. But I do like the drive and the sound of the supercharger when the foot goes down.

    I have attached a pic of my car and an example of what I am looking at. I did some work on paint restoration on mine so looks fresh and to be fair looks well for its age. There is just somerhing about those e class coupes that are classy and sporty. Have the itch to change but need to see how it pans out. Like monke it would be a long term change.

    That 06 is timeless.....even the front grille on the 131 bears more than a passing resemblance to it's predecessor. The €636 tax is a bit of a downer, but as you say, when you own the car, it takes the sting out of it. As for the NCT issues, corroded brake lines...thats a once off...you will not have that problem again, and with the timing chain done... I presume that the 180'000 is Klms, and not miles? And even if it is miles,,,That would not worry me particularly. Once the oil was changed regularly, they are good for much more that that.
    So now you are caught between the devil and the deep blue sea......as for car parking " door banger's", these " Moms with Babies" seem to think that they have a God given right to behave as they like, without any regards for other road users. But the had you hit her car, would have been a different story... and if she had marked your door, she would for sure not be smiling either when she gets the bill from the panel shop..... Let us know how it goes, OK?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Back online after a while! She's booked into the mechanics for Monday 6th-7th for the brake lines. My mechanic, who I genuinely feel is decent and won't/hasn't messed me about, said about €350 but could be more depending on the work involved. That's including him getting the lines/hoses too. He said it's one of the worst jobs on a Merc, as you pointed out some of them have to have the fuel tank removed. IIRC, he doesn't think he'll have to do it on the coupe (my mechanic friend in another county said it shouldn't be required), but as it's based on the C-Class chassis there's a possibility it might. It's the C207 model, so should have had those brake line issues fixed, but another mates brother got a 2015 one a couple of years back, and same problem. Mechanic held onto the brake lines he removed and they turned to dust in his hands (allegedly).

    But as noted, once fixed they shouldn't need to be done again, it's currently at just above 210k km, so good mileage out of them all the same!

    @Filla, that's a fine bus you have. I can't say whether to upgrade or not, I haven't driven your model, nor have I driven a petrol Merc (my last/first one was a 02 E220 CDI), and the current one is the E220 Bluetec CDI. I'm averaging about 6.7l/100km, but that's because it's mainly country roads and very little motorway driving, so the odd time I go on the motorway the reading for that drive brings it up to about 7.8l/100km. Tax is the highest of the 2010 E220 range, because it's a coupe it's €570 or thereabouts, whereas the saloons of the same year/model are in the €320 range. All because of the wheels apparently, everything else is the same! Wouldn't mind having a burn of the Kompressor models, but the one I have has plenty of power and I don't drive the balls out of cars anymore (even if I still like to get up to speed as quickly as possible sometimes!).

    Parking is alright, but I've always had big cars so used to them anyway. Getting in and out of the back in a carpark is always done before I park, as jmeire pointed out you do need the door nearly fully open for people to get in and out of the back. I got a 3 month warranty when I got mine, and it was used for the AC issue. Don't think you'll get much more than that, depending on the garage. So any issues you will be paying for yourself, but to be expected in a 10 year old car. I was also very lucky, the interior in mine is mint save for a couple of small issues on the leather on the drivers seat, but still amazing for the year. Don't know if anyone ever sat in the back of it before I got it!

    After the issues with the DPF recently, I would consider a petrol for the next one. You're getting serious mileage out of yours though, most petrol cars I've had have been worse mpg wise. Mine is also a pretty standard model, no reversing sensors, etc. If I was to go again, I'd be looking at the AMG trim versions of the E250. They have a few extras that might have been nice, but still happy out with what I have, just a case of having one cake and wanting another now.

    I can't recommend it enough though, it's by far the best car I've ever had. Driving is easy, simple and enjoyable, I don't get a sore back (not do passengers, front and back) on long journeys, it's giving me a pretty reasonable mpg considering the driving I do, and I think it's a beautiful looking car before the newer ones went a bit too smooth on the shape. I'll have it for another 4 years at least and even then I'll be hard pushed to get rid of it I reckon, might be pure fancy and get me an S-Class next!

    I was also told to stay away from the 2012/13 onwards in the C-Class, as they apparently use French engines (Renault and Peugeot I believe). So that's a no go for me anyway. Either way, I wouldn't go below an E-Class at this stage. Would be a step down I reckon. The one you've shown from Done Deal is lovely, but I'd keep looking for a black interior one! Don't like the brown/cream interiors personally, and I was lucky with the one I got (mostly all black with some silver trim). But that's a personal thing, and the black interiors are harder to find.

    Whatever you do, best of luck with it. One of the best purchases I've made in my life tbh, and no going back now, not that I want to! I've ruined driving in one sense, because I don't believe I'll be able to change from Merc now. My dream car has changed from a Dodge Viper to an AMG GT now!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Back online after a while! She's booked into the mechanics for Monday 6th-7th for the brake lines. My mechanic, who I genuinely feel is decent and won't/hasn't messed me about, said about €350 but could be more depending on the work involved. That's including him getting the lines/hoses too. He said it's one of the worst jobs on a Merc, as you pointed out some of them have to have the fuel tank removed. IIRC, he doesn't think he'll have to do it on the coupe (my mechanic friend in another county said it shouldn't be required), but as it's based on the C-Class chassis there's a possibility it might. It's the C207 model, so should have had those brake line issues fixed, but another mates brother got a 2015 one a couple of years back, and same problem. Mechanic held onto the brake lines he removed and they turned to dust in his hands (allegedly).

    But as noted, once fixed they shouldn't need to be done again, it's currently at just above 210k km, so good mileage out of them all the same!

    @Filla, that's a fine bus you have. I can't say whether to upgrade or not, I haven't driven your model, nor have I driven a petrol Merc (my last/first one was a 02 E220 CDI), and the current one is the E220 Bluetec CDI. I'm averaging about 6.7l/100km, but that's because it's mainly country roads and very little motorway driving, so the odd time I go on the motorway the reading for that drive brings it up to about 7.8l/100km. Tax is the highest of the 2010 E220 range, because it's a coupe it's €570 or thereabouts, whereas the saloons of the same year/model are in the €320 range. All because of the wheels apparently, everything else is the same! Wouldn't mind having a burn of the Kompressor models, but the one I have has plenty of power and I don't drive the balls out of cars anymore (even if I still like to get up to speed as quickly as possible sometimes!).

    Parking is alright, but I've always had big cars so used to them anyway. Getting in and out of the back in a carpark is always done before I park, as jmeire pointed out you do need the door nearly fully open for people to get in and out of the back. I got a 3 month warranty when I got mine, and it was used for the AC issue. Don't think you'll get much more than that, depending on the garage. So any issues you will be paying for yourself, but to be expected in a 10 year old car. I was also very lucky, the interior in mine is mint save for a couple of small issues on the leather on the drivers seat, but still amazing for the year. Don't know if anyone ever sat in the back of it before I got it!

    After the issues with the DPF recently, I would consider a petrol for the next one. You're getting serious mileage out of yours though, most petrol cars I've had have been worse mpg wise. Mine is also a pretty standard model, no reversing sensors, etc. If I was to go again, I'd be looking at the AMG trim versions of the E250. They have a few extras that might have been nice, but still happy out with what I have, just a case of having one cake and wanting another now.

    I can't recommend it enough though, it's by far the best car I've ever had. Driving is easy, simple and enjoyable, I don't get a sore back (not do passengers, front and back) on long journeys, it's giving me a pretty reasonable mpg considering the driving I do, and I think it's a beautiful looking car before the newer ones went a bit too smooth on the shape. I'll have it for another 4 years at least and even then I'll be hard pushed to get rid of it I reckon, might be pure fancy and get me an S-Class next!

    I was also told to stay away from the 2012/13 onwards in the C-Class, as they apparently use French engines (Renault and Peugeot I believe). So that's a no go for me anyway. Either way, I wouldn't go below an E-Class at this stage. Would be a step down I reckon. The one you've shown from Done Deal is lovely, but I'd keep looking for a black interior one! Don't like the brown/cream interiors personally, and I was lucky with the one I got (mostly all black with some silver trim). But that's a personal thing, and the black interiors are harder to find.

    Whatever you do, best of luck with it. One of the best purchases I've made in my life tbh, and no going back now, not that I want to! I've ruined driving in one sense, because I don't believe I'll be able to change from Merc now. My dream car has changed from a Dodge Viper to an AMG GT now!


    As I mentioned earlier, I've upgraded to a 2014 E class, 220 CDI,,,had the first one 2 and half years, nearly 30'000 Klms. Was not in the plan to change at all, but saw a Estate with AMG trim and 250 engine, it looked really fantastic so I went to have look...but too late, was gone when i got there, but they had another one , so I had a test drive and was so impressed that I bought it.....and now after driving it for the last 3 week's, I glad that I did buy it...and up to this, the 2010 E class was one of the most comfortable cars that I ever drove. In the 2009 - 2012 ( I think) the leather was not real leather, but an artificial fabric called "Artico" and in nearly all of them, ( mine as well ) the drivers seat fabric split...it was a known fault, Thankfully, in the new one, it's black leather ( real leather this time) Its possible to get them
    repaired,,,involves removing the seat, stripping the fabric off, and taking it to a good seamstress / leather worker. My new one was originally an Northern Ireland car. bought just this side of the border, when it was about 2 years old, and where it has remained since. With full MB service history up to a bout a year ago, so I'm presently chasing down one or two service gaps... most notably the Transmission ATF change and flush...this need's to be done every 40'000 Miles or 65'000 Klms. But according the onboard service assist, the next engine oil change is due in 150 days time. No mention of the ATF change, so I'll do it myself and I have already got the Transmission oil and filter kit plus while I'm at it, I will change the brake fluid and the coolant too. These are relatively small jobs,,so I'll get them done, ad then forget about them ( until next time,,2 years into the future ;);) Since I got it 3 weeks ago, the low coolant warning light has come on, so I took it back to the dealership, and they got it fixed...it was the fuel filter housing, which is connected to the engine block, and hot water from the engine circulates around the fuel filter to keep it at the proper temp. Its a known fault in the OM651 engine, but it's now crossed off the list of possible future problems Apart from that, I intend to enjoy it every chance I get.;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Another update.

    So brake lines/hoses replaced (with some copper/aluminium hoses, apparently will never need to be done again). Handbrake failed on the nct too, and I forgot to mention it and they didn't look at the folded over side of the fail sheet, so had to bring it back again for that. In the process of changing that, more trouble was found.

    Ended up having to replace the rear brake discs, drums, shields and pads. All were bad, shields were rusted and bent, scraping off the drums/discs. Another €420.

    Booked in for the nct again as I missed the retest because it took a week for the parts to come in. But should pass now.

    Finally got the part number for the blower motor. I rang Mercedes for the craic for prices. €420 for the motor and €480 for the regulator, but im sure its just the motor is gone. Trying to find a cheaper replacement but having trouble. Most are for LHD, so won't fit, and there's a choice between standard blower motor for about €100 delivered, or electric for about €300 delivered. Both look the same. No breakers have a second hand one, and any second hand ones I can find on eBay all seem to have some sort of damage.

    Anyone have anybody in the trade that could help me pinpoint the exact one needed? It's a BEHR one. But can't find any of them: BEHR v2425002 w204 rl2


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Another update.

    So brake lines/hoses replaced (with some copper/aluminium hoses, apparently will never need to be done again). Handbrake failed on the nct too, and I forgot to mention it and they didn't look at the folded over side of the fail sheet, so had to bring it back again for that. In the process of changing that, more trouble was found.

    Ended up having to replace the rear brake discs, drums, shields and pads. All were bad, shields were rusted and bent, scraping off the drums/discs. Another €420.

    Booked in for the nct again as I missed the retest because it took a week for the parts to come in. But should pass now.

    Finally got the part number for the blower motor. I rang Mercedes for the craic for prices. €420 for the motor and €480 for the regulator, but im sure its just the motor is gone. Trying to find a cheaper replacement but having trouble. Most are for LHD, so won't fit, and there's a choice between standard blower motor for about €100 delivered, or electric for about €300 delivered. Both look the same. No breakers have a second hand one, and any second hand ones I can find on eBay all seem to have some sort of damage.

    Anyone have anybody in the trade that could help me pinpoint the exact one needed? It's a BEHR one. But can't find any of them: BEHR v2425002 w204 rl2
    Have you tried the link that I sent you earlier both to identify the part and offer alternative ( but MB compliant ) parts and pricing?
    Here it is again for you in any case.
    PartsClub.info
    MERCEDES-BENZ Parts Catalog
    Check it out and see if it helps you.
    BTW, did you scan it, and if so, what faults codes showed in relation to the blower problem?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,854 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    keep the car a good while , the cars you will look at moving into, will still be depreciating significantly...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    No fault showing up, and I have parts identified but I can't say for certain if they're the right ones. They both look the same but are 200 in the difference.

    Mechanic mate of mine reckons it's wiring more than anything. Now I need a good electrical mechanic to test before splashing out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    No fault showing up, and I have parts identified but I can't say for certain if they're the right ones. They both look the same but are 200 in the difference.

    Mechanic mate of mine reckons it's wiring more than anything. Now I need a good electrical mechanic to test before splashing out.

    Did you identify the parts from the link I sent you? In my 2010 E class ( same mechanicals as yours, I think) there was an booster electric heater and blower buried deep in the innards of the dash. Once switched on, in less than a minute it would be blowing out hot air. This switched on when MAX heat setting was on, and it would switch off automatically when the water temp rose. Then it stopped, and I never got around to fixing it. Didn't bother the car ( or me ) one bit. ( see pic for codes ) Is the one you are having the problem with operated by the switch on the console on the dash? You flip it up ( or down) as needed to activate it? Just like the air blower in any other car ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Not getting any error codes, which is the strange thing. PN is BEHR V2425002 W204 RL2. When I check that, I get both the standard and electric blower motors back. Controlled by the normal buttons on the dash, up/down to turn on/up/down through the 5 levels. Doesn't matter which one it's on, it mostly doesn't work, and randomly comes on and off again a few seconds later every now and then. I don't think it's the regulator, as when it does come on it goes as per the speed setting. Beginning to think it's wiring more than anything at this stage. Gonna bring it to an auto-electrician to check out before I spend money on a part.

    It's annoying especially in rainy weather as the windscreen fogs up easily (even after de-greasing and cleaning) and I have to be driving for any air to come out of it, and even then it doesn't always clear it. Opening the windows clears it, but in rain that's not possible because of the shape of the car, rains runs off the rood and in the open window. A/C works, but again without the blower so when I'm driving and it fogs up, I turn on the A/C and it clears it within a few seconds, but only if I'm in motion. If stopped in traffic, or just stopped/parked, it fogs up just as quick.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Not getting any error codes, which is the strange thing. PN is BEHR V2425002 W204 RL2. When I check that, I get both the standard and electric blower motors back. Controlled by the normal buttons on the dash, up/down to turn on/up/down through the 5 levels. Doesn't matter which one it's on, it mostly doesn't work, and randomly comes on and off again a few seconds later every now and then. I don't think it's the regulator, as when it does come on it goes as per the speed setting. Beginning to think it's wiring more than anything at this stage. Gonna bring it to an auto-electrician to check out before I spend money on a part.

    It's annoying especially in rainy weather as the windscreen fogs up easily (even after de-greasing and cleaning) and I have to be driving for any air to come out of it, and even then it doesn't always clear it. Opening the windows clears it, but in rain that's not possible because of the shape of the car, rains runs off the rood and in the open window. A/C works, but again without the blower so when I'm driving and it fogs up, I turn on the A/C and it clears it within a few seconds, but only if I'm in motion. If stopped in traffic, or just stopped/parked, it fogs up just as quick.

    Yes,getting an auto-electrician to check it out is what I'd be inclined to do too,, rather than throwing parts at it. And when he is gone that far into it, he could remove the actual fan/motor ( they are all the one unit, as far as I know) and you will get the correct part Nr from that. The fact that its not showing any fault codes would indicate that the Regulator is OK.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Here's hoping. I'm able to remove the part, quite simple really, it's just above the passenger footrest, so the PN above is the correct one, but still returns 2 results and both products look the same. Next week I'll know more hopefully.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Here's hoping. I'm able to remove the part, quite simple really, it's just above the passenger footrest, so the PN above is the correct one, but still returns 2 results and both products look the same. Next week I'll know more hopefully.

    Very easy to check it out once its removed from the car...and also check the feed cables. The electrician will have the proper circuit testers / volt meters for the job...with older car electric's, you could connect any 12v supply to the fan motor, and straight away, you would know what the problem was, and similarly, you could hook a simple bulb tester to the input cables, and check them out that way. But I'd be very reluctant to use these methods on any car with a canbus system.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,308 ✭✭✭✭Potential-Monke


    Not much to update, all work completed, fan replaced and working fine, got one delivered from the UK in 3 days and handy enough to put in.

    But I discovered something else. I was googling to see how much I've lost if I was to sell now. I've still paid less than what they're going for, but I'm a but upset.

    My car, 10Xxxxxx is an E220 CDI, tax is 560 or something. 10MH15519 for sale, is an E250 CDI and only €390 for the year... confused. Literally the same car but with full leather and parking sensors and it's cheaper to tax... can't figure that one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,478 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Not much to update, all work completed, fan replaced and working fine, got one delivered from the UK in 3 days and handy enough to put in.

    But I discovered something else. I was googling to see how much I've lost if I was to sell now. I've still paid less than what they're going for, but I'm a but upset.

    My car, 10Xxxxxx is an E220 CDI, tax is 560 or something. 10MH15519 for sale, is an E250 CDI and only €390 for the year... confused. Literally the same car but with full leather and parking sensors and it's cheaper to tax... can't figure that one.

    Just a newer, lower emissions version of the engine.


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