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What do these headset numbers mean

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  • 08-08-2019 9:46am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭


    I am about to buy a new fork - it states:

    - Compatible with 1 1/8 45 x 45 Integrated headsets

    What does the 45 x 45 mean (the 1 1/8 is the diameter, right - fairly standard size?)


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 36,167 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    Sheldon has nothing on such a size so I suspect its made up by Ribble (it Ribble right?)

    Replacing a fork seems like a strange thing to need to do, but if you do I'd go back to the frame OEM to get a matching one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    Its a ribble fork, cube bike (I posted elsewhere trying to find out if I can do this).

    Can't track down the original fork (bike is 10 years old).

    I need to do some general work on the bike (need new wheelset and stuff).

    The bearings have became stiff, when I went ot lbs they pointed out that the fork carbon/alu bonding looks a bit dodgy. This could have been a sales technique, but looking at it, could be right (attached)?

    I was in a crash a couple years ago and maybe I am being a bit overly worried.


    (EDIT: If it does need replaced, I am going from semi integrated, so I was hoping I could pop in the Ribble fork and a new headset, but I am not even sure this is possible).

    (Edit#2 - yes the paint in general is horrible!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 36,167 ✭✭✭✭ED E


    I'd question the economics of putting a large amount of cash into a beater like that. If you have B2W then it becomes very poor value compared to a new ride.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    I have also questioned it - I can fix hopefully for 2-300 - a new bike with b2b is at least double that for equivalent bike. Plus I have taken the summer off so no work and therefore no B2W for now!
    Besides, if I fix this and get b2w - this will make a good winter commute bike and thus preserve the new one.

    But this is with me doing the majority of work (I am off work - so time is cheaper than normal!)


    Would you replace that fork? Or is paint like that normal on a carbon/alu fork?



    EDIT- The rest of the bike is well maintained by myself and regular lbs servicing - the paint is crap, and the wheels took a beating on Dublin road commutes over the years (and have been repaired many times until they imploded - therefore I reckon rear wheel or wheelset on sale plus bearings and maybe fork - thats the bit I am unsure on)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,852 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    The 45 x 45 means that the internal and external chamfer angles (in degrees) of the bearing where it will contact the fork crown race (internal) and the frame race (external)

    1-1/8" 45 x 45 would be a very standard integrated headset size and bearings should be widely available

    The main issue is whether the frame race matches. If you pull out (and clean) the old fork bearings, you might see a series of numbers on the outside like 45x45 - 40 x 52 x7 (which are the ID, OD and height of the bearing). Just need to make sure the new fork has the same bearing size


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    The 45 x 45 means that the internal and external chamfer angles (in degrees) of the bearing where it will contact the fork crown race (internal) and the frame race (external)

    1-1/8" 45 x 45 would be a very standard integrated headset size and bearings should be widely available

    The main issue is whether the frame race matches. If you pull out (and clean) the old fork bearings, you might see a series of numbers on the outside like 45x45 - 40 x 52 x7 (which are the ID, OD and height of the bearing). Just need to make sure the new fork has the same bearing size

    Im about to pull it apart but from my basic understanding the existing set up is a fork and an FSA no 10 Semi Integrated headet.

    - For 50mm OD head tube
    - 1.1/8" steerer
    - Alloy custom top cover
    - 5/32"×20 retainer bearings

    I found a ribble fork for a good price but the ribble fork is only compatible with integrated headset.

    So I was wondering if I bought this fork AND a new integrated headset, would I be good to go (Plus new bearing cartridges, but I need these anyway as the steering is stiff).

    Or do I have this completely wrong!!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,852 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    km991148 wrote: »
    Im about to pull it apart but from my basic understanding the existing set up is a fork and an FSA no 10 Semi Integrated headet.

    - For 50mm OD head tube
    - 1.1/8" steerer
    - Alloy custom top cover
    - 5/32"×20 retainer bearings

    I found a ribble fork for a good price but the ribble fork is only compatible with integrated headset.

    So I was wondering if I bought this fork AND a new integrated headset, would I be good to go (Plus new bearing cartridges, but I need these anyway as the steering is stiff).

    Or do I have this completely wrong!!

    An integrated headset relies on the frame races being permanently installed in the frame, so at the fork-crown end, you'll just have a crown race (on the fork) and a bearing.
    A semi-integrated headset uses cups that are pressed into the frame for the bearings to then contact. In that case, you'll have a fork crown race, a bearing and an upper cup to fit into the bottom of the headtube.

    You cannot take out a semi-integrated headset and replace with integrated as the dimensions will be incorrect and the headtube will not have integrated races.
    I think you should be able to fit a semi-integrated headset to that new fork. You might have to remove the fork crown race and replace it if the face angle is different - typically 45° or 36°. But if for any reason the crown race in an integral part of the fork and is the wrong angle, you're hosed. Might be worth contacting Ribble customer services to see it the fork will work with a semi-integrated headset?

    Drifting out the old headset cups and taking off the crown race (and then replacing everything) is usually straightforward but not a job for the ham-fisted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    Thanks for that explanation - thats the bit I was missing (the obvious i.e. what attaches everything to the frame!).

    I will ring ribble and see - but its looking like a potentially expensive (if it goes wrong) bodge..

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    Also - on closer inspection - the reason the bearings are all gunked up seems to be because of the abuse of the paint* - i.e. it appears to be full of white sandy coloured powder which resembles the stuff (primer?) that was under the paint when I flecked it away.

    (*yes I abused it by keeping my Kryptonite on my handlebars doh!).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    hmm - thanks - but according to Mefistofelino - I cant put integrated into my frame?

    The procedure seems to be use a semi inegrated headset and somehow bodge the fork (remove parts from it) to work semi. This job is possibly getting out of hand for me, I think I will get some new wheels on it and get it down to the professionals :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    .
    I think you should be able to fit a semi-integrated headset to that new fork. You might have to remove the fork crown race and replace it if the face angle is different - typically 45° or 36°.

    Sorry - first time I read this I wasnt even sure what the crown race was!! - but it basically looks like a washer? And therefor maybe I can swap them if they are both split crown races, this should be easy?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,852 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    km991148 wrote: »
    Sorry - first time I read this I wasnt even sure what the crown race was!! - but it basically looks like a washer? And therefor maybe I can swap them if they are both split crown races, this should be easy?

    Fork crown race is like a fancy washer but is usually one piece and designed to be a tight, interference fit. Removing an old one is a bit easier than installing as there is less risk if you damage it. The new race needs to be installed perfectly perpendicular to the steering axis. Usually takes either a specific tool or a piece of pipe that'll fit over the steerer tube but rest on the top part of the race so it can be tapped down evenly. Other bodge methods are available.

    The Park tools website is usually good for demos.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,275 ✭✭✭km991148


    Sorry - one more Question!

    Ribble wont tell me anything over the phone in case they can be held liable for any of my own bodging. I need to send a carefully worded mail..

    I am basically asking if there is any reason why it wouldnt work semi integrated (i.e. cant remove crown race etc).


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