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Electrical Work

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  • 26-08-2019 8:51pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    I bought a 2011 Nissan Leaf about a week ago. looking now at my home charging options.

    Key thing: I live in a rented house and plan to move in a few months to my new permanent house.

    So between now and then, I want to look at a cost effective way to get charging up and running at home.
    The landlord is ok with me doing work in regard to this.
    I know there is a grant but I dont want to use this grant until I move to my permanent home (this can indeed be done months after buying the car)
    Ive heard words like: priority switches, breakers, bypasses, upgraded cabling etc


    My options are

    (1) Install an external weatherproof 3 pin 13 amp socket and utilize this with the granny cable: https://www.adverts.ie/other/granny-cable-nissan-leaf/18583113
    I am guessing there are lots of people that plug in their granny cables to a standard 3 pin socket without a second thought and charge their car away and all works fine without priority switches, special cabling etc. I am presuming this external socket would be an ok option.


    (2) Install a dedicated 16 amp car charger like this: https://www.adverts.ie/other/electri...point/18503556
    These home chargers come in 16 amp and 32 amp. Supposedly from what I read, the 32 amp needs special cabling and priority switches etc, whereas the 16 amp version does not, open to correction. This will cost me a bit more, about 100 euro for the charging unit.

    Im trying to figure out if the cabling needed for option 2 would be the same as option 1 - and the only difference being that there is a 16 amp charger wired in instead of the 13 amp 3 pin socket.


    I know these questions probably seem silly, but im just trying to get things clear in my head.
    Its all about being cost effective and not having to do the full proper job in a rented hose and then have to come along in a few months time and do it all over again in the permanent house.


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Put in a good quality outdoor socket, good for hovering the car and cutting the grass. Can be used by the next person too. It might be possible to take power from another socket in the hall or front room, depending on the loads.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    Put in a good quality outdoor socket, good for hovering the car and cutting the grass. Can be used by the next person too. It might be possible to take power from another socket in the hall or front room, depending on the loads.


    Thank you. So you reckon option 1 is ok? Does it need any special cabling, priority switches etc?


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,100 ✭✭✭✭Sleeper12


    obi604 wrote:
    Thank you. So you reckon option 1 is ok? Does it need any special cabling, priority switches etc?


    I'm not an electrician so happy to be corrected but I think the priority switch is for using heavy duty chargers. They would be to stop you fast charging your car & running an electric shower at the same time.

    I can't see how charging with a regular 3 pin plug would ever need a priority switch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    Put in a good quality outdoor socket, good for hovering the car and cutting the grass. Can be used by the next person too. It might be possible to take power from another socket in the hall or front room, depending on the loads.


    Would the 16 amp charger in option 2: https://www.adverts.ie/other/electri...point/18503556

    have the same wiring involved as option 1? Or would it require extra cabling and priority switches etc due to it being regarded as a ‘heavy duty’ charger


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    A 16a charger would normally be connected directly to the fuse board on a dedicated rcbo. In Ireland they don’t like connecting fixed equipment like a charger to a socket circuit. It’s prefered to put it on its own circuit.

    If you were staying in the house option 2 is the way to go. As your moving option 1 would be better.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    A 16a charger would normally be connected directly to the fuse board on a dedicated rcbo. In Ireland they don’t like connecting fixed equipment like a charger to a socket circuit. It’s prefered to put it on its own circuit.

    If you were staying in the house option 2 is the way to go. As your moving option 1 would be better.

    Thank you!!!

    I know prices vary a lot.
    Let’s say distance from fuse board to charge point is 3 metres.

    What would be the rough price of option 1 and option 2. Just ball park.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    For the external weatherproof 13 amp socket install —> and for getting an electrician and based on what I have explained here..........do I even need to mention it will be used to charge an electric car? Or will this just over complicate matters?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,455 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    If you're going for option 2 there's no point not putting in a 32A system, same amount of cabling effort and they're not a whole lot more expensive. Some EVSEs have in built current limiting so you don't need a priority switch if you have an electric shower.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    TheChizler wrote: »
    If you're going for option 2 there's no point not putting in a 32A system, same amount of cabling effort and they're not a whole lot more expensive. Some EVSEs have in built current limiting so you don't need a priority switch if you have an electric shower.


    Ah ok. I thought with option 2 when it was just a 16 amp (versus a 32 amp) charger, that the work involved was same as the work for the external 13 amp outdoor plug.
    I.e. not complicated.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    obi604 wrote: »
    For the external weatherproof 13 amp socket install —> and for getting an electrician and based on what I have explained here..........do I even need to mention it will be used to charge an electric car? Or will this just over complicate matters?


    What do ye think on this? Worth mentioning or just stay quiet? (As nothing special needed for option 1 with granny cable)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    If you are moving soon the easist option is to install an external socket make sure you get a good quality one as the load will be on for a long period while charging car

    Granny Cable Load is usually max 10a so not really any need to inform Electrican what socket is to be used for


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    If you are moving soon the easist option is to install an external socket make sure you get a good quality one as the load will be on for a long period while charging car

    Granny Cable Load is usually max 10a so not really any need to inform Electrican what socket is to be used for



    Perfect !! Just so I know, could you link a good quality socket.

    Something like this: https://www.ie.screwfix.com/british-general-nexus-13a-1g-switch-socket.html

    What makes one socket better over the other? Or what do I specifically need to get in a socket?


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    Perfect !! Just so I know, could you link a good quality socket.

    Something like this: https://www.ie.screwfix.com/british-general-nexus-13a-1g-switch-socket.html

    What makes one socket better over the other? Or what do I specifically need to get in a socket?


    Well what makes one better than the next is the quality of the construction MK are great and for a 10a continuous Load I would like to have a really good socket with good strong connections

    You also need to be sure the one you choose can take a Large moulded plug some granny cables have a large 13a moulded plug

    Its the old adage you get what you pay for but the difference in the cost of the socket is minimal in the cost of the job if you are paying an Electrican to install


    Like These

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-2-gang-switched-socket/98279

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-2-gang-switched-rcd-socket-passive/76855


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    Well what makes one better than the next is the quality of the construction MK are great and for a 10a continuous Load I would like to have a really good socket with good strong connections

    You also need to be sure the one you choose can take a Large moulded plug some granny cables have a large 13a moulded plug

    Its the old adage you get what you pay for but the difference in the cost of the socket is minimal in the cost of the job if you are paying an Electrican to install


    Like These

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-2-gang-switched-socket/98279

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-2-gang-switched-rcd-socket-passive/76855


    Thanks, are you specifying a 2 gang due to the large bulky nature of the granny?

    And a single one may be too small?


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks, are you specifying a 2 gang due to the large bulky nature of the granny?

    And a single one may be too small?

    No its just I always would install a Double but if a Single suits you the no problem

    Unless you are stuck for space on wall then the difference in price is minimal

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-1-gang-switched-socket/30703

    You could always install MK socket now and replace it with cheaper option when moving and Take MK with you to new House


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    No its just I always would install a Double but if a Single suits you the no problem

    Unless you are stuck for space on wall then the difference in price is minimal

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-masterseal-plus-13a-1-gang-switched-socket/30703

    You could always install MK socket now and replace it with cheaper option when moving and Take MK with you to new House

    THANK YOU!

    Is there such a thing as a lockable one? so when granny cable is plugged in , I could lock it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    THANK YOU!

    Is there such a thing as a lockable one? so when granny cable is plugged in , I could lock it.

    There are Lockable ones but if someone wants to Steal Granny Cable then they will break Socket Lid its only Plastic Better get a cable lock and lock Granny Cable to car wheel or if possible run granny cable through Car wheel but if outside granny cable will be vulnerable to theft

    Depending on wheel you might be able to get 13a plug through it so just run cable through wheel

    Like this but if they want it they will take it

    https://insideevs.com/photo/3941946/how-to-protect-your-nissan-leaf-level-1-charger-from-theft-video/


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    There are Lockable ones but if someone wants to Steal Granny Cable then they will break Socket Lid its only Plastic Better get a cable lock and lock Granny Cable to car wheel or if possible run granny cable through Car wheel but if outside granny cable will be vulnerable to theft

    Depending on wheel you might be able to get 13a plug through it so just run cable through wheel

    Like this but if they want it they will take it

    https://insideevs.com/photo/3941946/how-to-protect-your-nissan-leaf-level-1-charger-from-theft-video/


    Brilliant thank you!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    Thanks for all the brilliant help so far.
    Now to the install

    Is there a regulation for how high sockets need to be from the ground. like in this house im in and most other houses, sockets seem to be usually 2ft above the ground.

    can they be put higher or lower height etc

    Reason I ask is because the granny cable has a transformer box on it that looks fairly heavy and bulky, the length of cable between plug and transformer box (white arrows) is fairly short, therefore the most likely thing is that the transformer box will be 'hanging' in mid air and put pressure on the plug etc when hanging constantly.

    Any thoughts around this?

    Maybe but a little holder for transformer box on wall so it does not 'hang' (as basic as a couple of screws maybe)


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks for all the brilliant help so far.
    Now to the install

    Is there a regulation for how high sockets need to be from the ground. like in this house im in and most other houses, sockets seem to be usually 2ft above the ground.

    can they be put higher or lower height etc

    Reason I ask is because the granny cable has a transformer box on it that looks fairly heavy and bulky, the length of cable between plug and transformer box (white arrows) is fairly short, therefore the most likely thing is that the transformer box will be 'hanging' in mid air and put pressure on the plug etc when hanging constantly.

    Any thoughts around this?

    Maybe but a little holder for transformer box on wall so it does not 'hang' (as basic as a couple of screws maybe)


    Just put a cable tie on cable below plug pull it tight cut off tail and it will sit on top of closed cover of socket taking the weight


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    Just put a cable tie on cable below plug pull it tight cut off tail and it will sit on top of closed cover of socket taking the weight


    Trying to make this out but can’t :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    Trying to make this out but can’t :)

    Like this if you position cable tie just above where flex sits in Socket Cover when you close cover the cable tie will take the strain


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,455 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    obi604 wrote: »
    Reason I ask is because the granny cable has a transformer box on it that looks fairly heavy and bulky
    Just FYI it's not a transformer, it's some electronics and relays for negotiating the connection with the car, so wouldn't be that heavy. No harm in supporting it still.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    xl500 wrote: »
    Like this if you position cable tie just above where flex sits in Socket Cover when you close cover the cable tie will take the strain

    Ah yes. Have ya now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks for all the brilliant help so far.
    Now to the install

    Is there a regulation for how high sockets need to be from the ground. like in this house im in and most other houses, sockets seem to be usually 2ft above the ground.

    can they be put higher or lower height etc

    Reason I ask is because the granny cable has a transformer box on it that looks fairly heavy and bulky, the length of cable between plug and transformer box (white arrows) is fairly short, therefore the most likely thing is that the transformer box will be 'hanging' in mid air and put pressure on the plug etc when hanging constantly.

    Any thoughts around this?

    Maybe but a little holder for transformer box on wall so it does not 'hang' (as basic as a couple of screws maybe)


    For External 3 pin sockets, is there an ideal height to have them at. 2 ft off the ground is it? Or best to put them higher?


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    obi604 wrote: »
    For External 3 pin sockets, is there an ideal height to have them at. 2 ft off the ground is it? Or best to put them higher?


    Anyone on this? May have electrician coming today.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    TheChizler wrote: »
    If you're going for option 2 there's no point not putting in a 32A system, same amount of cabling effort and they're not a whole lot more expensive. Some EVSEs have in built current limiting so you don't need a priority switch if you have an electric shower.

    So even If I was to just buy and install the 16 amp charger, I still need to do the priority switches, cabling back to fuse board. etc

    i.e. is the electricians work the same for a 16 amp charger and 32 amp charger install?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,455 ✭✭✭TheChizler


    obi604 wrote: »
    So even If I was to just buy and install the 16 amp charger, I still need to do the priority switches, cabling back to fuse board. etc

    i.e. is the electricians work the same for a 16 amp charger and 32 amp charger install?
    You only really need the priority switch for 32A if you have an electric shower or some other high current device, an induction hob maybe, or if the EVSE doesn't have it built in like the Zappi for instance. If you already have a lot going on in your house it might be sensible to get a priority switch even for 16A.

    There's very little difference in cost and labour running a 32A or a 16A cable. If it's only a couple of metres the difference in material costs would be only a few Euro.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,636 ✭✭✭obi604


    TheChizler wrote: »
    You only really need the priority switch for 32A if you have an electric shower or some other high current device, an induction hob maybe, or if the EVSE doesn't have it built in like the Zappi for instance. If you already have a lot going on in your house it might be sensible to get a priority switch even for 16A.

    There's very little difference in cost and labour running a 32A or a 16A cable. If it's only a couple of metres the difference in material costs would be only a few Euro.


    Thanks, so high level:

    --> Electrician work for install of 16 amp or 32 amp charger is more a less the same work involved and could be a few hundred? (then have to add the cost of buying the actual charge point too)

    --> Electrician work for install of external weatherproof socket would be around 100 and is not as tricky as above


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  • Registered Users Posts: 879 ✭✭✭xl500


    obi604 wrote: »
    Thanks, so high level:

    --> Electrician work for install of 16 amp or 32 amp charger is more a less the same work involved and could be a few hundred? (then have to add the cost of buying the actual charge point too)

    --> Electrician work for install of external weatherproof socket would be around 100 and is not as tricky as above

    Not really installing a 16a unit would most likely not require a Priority unit whereas installing a 32a unit would most likely require one


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