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Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

11516182021208

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Few more


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭Odelay


    A few other getting the same upgrade?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Odelay wrote: »
    A few other getting the same upgrade?

    Serious amount of tankers up there. 5 ready for home. 3 including mine in getting done. 2 more arrived this evening while I was there. Very sound lads up there. Serious craic with them. He is flat out building umbilical systems too.

    Gonna be a waiting list shortly I reckon


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    The umbilical systems


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    Reggie. wrote: »
    The umbilical systems

    Has it got lights? :P


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Has it got lights? :P

    Dont know about them but the tanker bars do


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,371 ✭✭✭MickeyShtyles


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Dont know about them but the tanker bars do

    Ah good. Ye’ll keep a few on here happy so!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Ah good. Ye’ll keep a few on here happy so!

    Thankfully


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Would anyone have any idea how long a new unused hydraulic cylinder would last in storage? I’ve been offered one that’s been stored in a shed for probably 10 years. But I’m wondering if the seals might be dried out or something......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,188 ✭✭✭emaherx


    hopeso wrote: »
    Would anyone have any idea how long a new unused hydraulic cylinder would last in storage? I’ve been offered one that’s been stored in a shed for probably 10 years. But I’m wondering if the seals might be dried out or something......

    No idea, but if chrome is good that's all that really matters, seals are easily replaced.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,907 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    hopeso wrote: »
    Would anyone have any idea how long a new unused hydraulic cylinder would last in storage? I’ve been offered one that’s been stored in a shed for probably 10 years. But I’m wondering if the seals might be dried out or something......

    Best practice is to store it upwards. so that there is no side force on the internal rams. That prolongs the life of the seals. Seals can be easily changed though, on good quality rams.

    'If I ventured in the slipstream, Between the viaducts of your dream'



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,392 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Reggie - did you consider a trailing shoe? Was it the simpler system? I've read the the dribble is less prone to blockages too.
    What brought you to the dribble bar system?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Reggie - did you consider a trailing shoe? Was it the simpler system? I've read the the dribble is less prone to blockages too.
    What brought you to the dribble bar system?

    Customers here have all gone into derogation. Also with the heavy covers of grass around this back end lads needed the dribble bar to be able to graze afterwards.

    Went for the dribble bar as it's a simpler system and cheaper. Dont think the trailing shoe is worth the extra weight or money in the long run.


  • Registered Users Posts: 115 ✭✭Limofarmer


    First time using low emissions slurry spreading here . Contractor used the dribble bar here and I wouldn’t like it on ground with much of a cover of grass on it . Got another lad in later in the year to put out some using trailing shoe . It went onto a decent cover of grass . Trailing shoe done a much better job and and pretty much laid the slurry into the soil . Dribble bar seems to just dribble it out on top of the grass .


  • Registered Users Posts: 476 ✭✭Keep Sluicing


    Limofarmer wrote: »
    First time using low emissions slurry spreading here . Contractor used the dribble bar here and I wouldn’t like it on ground with much of a cover of grass on it . Got another lad in later in the year to put out some using trailing shoe . It went onto a decent cover of grass . Trailing shoe done a much better job and and pretty much laid the slurry into the soil . Dribble bar seems to just dribble it out on top of the grass .

    Found the same here. Been using trailing shoe contractor here for 4 years now and wouldnt use anything else on grassland


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,611 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    Found the same here. Been using trailing shoe contractor here for 4 years now and wouldnt use anything else on grassland

    Does it leave ground rough if used in spring, risk of earth etc when rowing silage?


  • Registered Users Posts: 476 ✭✭Keep Sluicing


    Mooooo wrote: »
    Does it leave ground rough if used in spring, risk of earth etc when rowing silage?

    I cant say it does. Its only placing the slurry on the earth and pushing the grass to the side, rather than digging into the surface.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    First day with the Rossmore grab on today throwing out a few bales. After the first one or two bales being brought to the yard, I realised my old grab was piped backwards to this grab so when I went about closing it, the grab opened and vise versa.

    After much colourful language, I think I'm getting the hang of getting the plastic caught in the plastic grab, managed to do it for 2 of the last 3 and 3 of nine overall.

    Flattened bales look like they will cause problems even if pushed up against a wall unless you make sure the 'normal', bigger end is facing into the grab when you push it against a wall to close it.

    I have to decide whether to pipe it to suit my ar$eways way of doing it or leave it alone and relearn to open and close the proper way.:rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,744 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    First day with the Rossmore grab on today throwing out a few bales. After the first one or two bales being brought to the yard, I realised my old grab was piped backwards to this grab so when I went about closing it, the grab opened and vise versa.

    After much colourful language, I think I'm getting the hang of getting the plastic caught in the plastic grab, managed to do it for 2 of the last 3 and 3 of nine overall.

    Flattened bales look like they will cause problems even if pushed up against a wall unless you make sure the 'normal', bigger end is facing into the grab when you push it against a wall to close it.

    I have to decide whether to pipe it to suit my ar$eways way of doing it or leave it alone and relearn to open and close the proper way.:rolleyes:
    If you have a wall, well and good.
    But can you do it against the ground and come in from the top.

    That's how I use the shearman. Coming in from the top over the bale.

    Well wear btw. Anything that makes a job safer is a job well done.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    If you have a wall, well and good.
    But can you do it against the ground and come in from the top.

    That's how I use the shearman. Coming in from the top over the bale.

    Well wear btw. Anything that makes a job safer is a job well done.

    I tried going over the top but the prong length doesn't allow the grab go down enough to grab the plastic and the stock of the loader doesn't tilt down enough to go fully level over the top of the bale.

    There's a way of doing it, it's just a matter of figuring out what it is.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,479 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    I tried going over the top but the prong length doesn't allow the grab go down enough to grab the plastic and the stock of the loader doesn't tilt down enough to go fully level over the top of the bale.

    There's a way of doing it, it's just a matter of figuring out what it is.

    That's it. A nack to everything


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,693 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    First day with the Rossmore grab on today throwing out a few bales. After the first one or two bales being brought to the yard, I realised my old grab was piped backwards to this grab so when I went about closing it, the grab opened and vise versa.

    After much colourful language, I think I'm getting the hang of getting the plastic caught in the plastic grab, managed to do it for 2 of the last 3 and 3 of nine overall.

    Flattened bales look like they will cause problems even if pushed up against a wall unless you make sure the 'normal', bigger end is facing into the grab when you push it against a wall to close it.

    I have to decide whether to pipe it to suit my ar$eways way of doing it or leave it alone and relearn to open and close the proper way.:rolleyes:

    Change it. I changed something on my spoolpack for the loader over 10 years ago and I still occasionally press the wrong lever.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,438 ✭✭✭hopeso


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Change it. I changed something on my spoolpack for the loader over 10 years ago and I still occasionally press the wrong lever.

    I'd be inclined to leave it, especially if you aren't going to be using the old grab again, or indeed anything else that's piped wrong. I'd say you'll soon adjust to it. But, if you will be using other attachments that are piped wrong, then change something, so that they all work the same way....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,886 ✭✭✭Odelay


    First day with the Rossmore grab on today throwing out a few bales. After the first one or two bales being brought to the yard, I realised my old grab was piped backwards to this grab so when I went about closing it, the grab opened and vise versa.

    After much colourful language, I think I'm getting the hang of getting the plastic caught in the plastic grab, managed to do it for 2 of the last 3 and 3 of nine overall.

    Flattened bales look like they will cause problems even if pushed up against a wall unless you make sure the 'normal', bigger end is facing into the grab when you push it against a wall to close it.

    I have to decide whether to pipe it to suit my ar$eways way of doing it or leave it alone and relearn to open and close the proper way.:rolleyes:

    Change the opening to whatever is industry standard. Won’t eliminate but should reduce accidents if you borrow/buy another machine or someone uses yours. Think also about the next generation that you may be training too..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    My old grab was second hand so I just worked away with it as normal as I knew no better.

    I'll probably stick with it the way it is and train myself out of using it the wrong way after a few days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,703 ✭✭✭roosterman71


    When I changed the tractor the opening/closing and tilting up/down was reversed. Took a few days to retrain myself but soon the muscle memory cops on and yer 100%. So I wouldn't change it unless the old way was right and the standard


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,046 ✭✭✭Injuryprone


    First day with the Rossmore grab on today throwing out a few bales. After the first one or two bales being brought to the yard, I realised my old grab was piped backwards to this grab so when I went about closing it, the grab opened and vise versa.

    After much colourful language, I think I'm getting the hang of getting the plastic caught in the plastic grab, managed to do it for 2 of the last 3 and 3 of nine overall.

    Flattened bales look like they will cause problems even if pushed up against a wall unless you make sure the 'normal', bigger end is facing into the grab when you push it against a wall to close it.

    I have to decide whether to pipe it to suit my ar$eways way of doing it or leave it alone and relearn to open and close the proper way.:rolleyes:

    What way are the hoses on the grab set up? Are they not just a male and female hose? That could be swapped over?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    What way are the hoses on the grab set up? Are they not just a male and female hose? That could be swapped over?

    Yeah, male and female same as the last one. They could be changed around but, as lads said before, better to stay with the standard settings and get used to them, I think?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,439 ✭✭✭Waffletraktor


    Yeah, male and female same as the last one. They could be changed around but, as lads said before, better to stay with the standard settings and get used to them, I think?

    For the sake of 3 minutes with a combination of either a 19/22/27mm spanners (dairy man's toolbox x2 visegrips :P) to do what ever falls to muscle memory rather than spend the next few week thinking about how you do it.
    Just change them to how you want it.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,188 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Yeah, male and female same as the last one. They could be changed around but, as lads said before, better to stay with the standard settings and get used to them, I think?

    What's the standard? Or is there one? I've seen every combination on different tractors.

    What controls do you have? levers or a joystick with button for 3rd service?


    Is it press a button and move lever in same direction as tilting the whole grab down to close? And tilt up to open? ( This is the only way I'd have it, anything else and I'd change the couplers around)

    On my loader both couplers on loader are female and both on grab are male, so it can be hooked up either way, but I've color coded each so I don't mix them up.


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