Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread II

zetecescort

Whats the difference between a long and short oil filter on a Ford 5000 and what harm if any can be done changing one for the other?

Waffletraktor

Gawddawggonnit wrote: »

https://arland-pulverisation.fr/fiche,les-rampes,,,362.html

This company makes booms for several sprayer manufacturers. No need for rust treatment. No problem whatsoever with liquid fert. Light and strong. The job!

Buford T. Justice VI wrote: »

Thought this might interest a few on here.
https://twitter.com/John_Dunne_/status/1211398119570788356?s=19

Ya think they could teach amazone something about booms, 1 folding section from the centre pretty much failed and a mod design fitted.

davidk1394

Do any of ye use an elephant grab for stacking bales ? Using a soft hands but it didn't work too well this year and I'm only finding out now.

mr.stonewall

davidk1394 wrote: »

Do any of ye use an elephant grab for stacking bales ? Using a soft hands but it didn't work too well this year and I'm only finding out now.

Have one that was made in Kerry. Super job. Really quick loading, unloading trailers and stacking. Have it on the front of a 3cx and fantastic most of the time until you get wet ground with the 3cx

davidk1394

mr.stonewall wrote: »

Have one that was made in Kerry. Super job. Really quick loading, unloading trailers and stacking. Have it on the front of a 3cx and fantastic most of the time until you get wet ground with the 3cx

It would be going onto a 3cx here aswell. Would you tear any bales or anything?

Keep Sluicing

davidk1394 wrote: »

It would be going onto a 3cx here aswell. Would you tear any bales or anything?

We have a JM agri one here. A great job. Damaged about 1% of bales, but that was due to operator error

mr.stonewall

davidk1394 wrote: »

It would be going onto a 3cx here aswell. Would you tear any bales or anything?

Very very little. The tape gets very little use. Have the jm Agri one here and it's worth the every penny. It will last 20 years plus

satstheway

davidk1394 wrote: »

Do any of ye use an elephant grab for stacking bales ? Using a soft hands but it didn't work too well this year and I'm only finding out now.

What problems with soft hands? I was thinking on them.

davidk1394

satstheway wrote: »

What problems with soft hands? I was thinking on them.

With the clover silage bales. Air pockets were forming around the edge of the bales where the soft hands caught the bales and causing them to rot.

Grueller

How can a tractor like this not have hook ends on a 3pt linkage?
https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/new-holland-t6030/23854579

jaymla627

Grueller wrote: »

How can a tractor like this not have hook ends on a 3pt linkage?
https://www.donedeal.ie/tractors-for-sale/new-holland-t6030/23854579

They came in different specs, a delta model would be a bog standard farmers machine, a elite model would be a contractors machine with about 20k extra on the price tag

Grueller

jaymla627 wrote: »

They came in different specs, a delta model would be a bog standard farmers machine, a elite model would be a contractors machine with about 20k extra on the price tag

That is true but I have a TL90 with hook ends from the early 00s. I would have thought that you would need to spec it that way on day one which leads to the question, why would you not want hook ends?

emaherx

Grueller wrote: »

That is true but I have a TL90 with hook ends from the early 00s. I would have thought that you would need to spec it that way on day one which leads to the question, why would you not want hook ends?

Entirely possible they were damaged/worn and owner replaced with weld on ball type.

Edit: on second reading add, tractor was bought for construction work, doubt much thought went into specing 3 point linkage.

enricoh

Hi folks, the drive chains on my John Deere gator are worn and loose. I have an old gator that I cannabilise parts off. The chains on the old one are good and tight but a bit of rust and links stiff. It was in the outdoors graveyard!

I threw them into waste oil over the weekend but just wondering am I making work fitting them? N will they stretch easily now. Sprockets are grand, ta

blue5000

zetecescort wrote: »

Whats the difference between a long and short oil filter on a Ford 5000 and what harm if any can be done changing one for the other?

Long ones were originally meant for the turbo engine 7000. Doesn't matter which you use on a 5000. Sometimes the long one gets in the way with loader brackets.

GrasstoMilk

davidk1394 wrote: »

Do any of ye use an elephant grab for stacking bales ? Using a soft hands but it didn't work too well this year and I'm only finding out now.

https://www.facebook.com/1595638483990515/posts/2541698636051157/

davidk1394

GrasstoMilk wrote: »

https://www.facebook.com/1595638483990515/posts/2541698636051157/

Thanks for the link

davidk1394

One careful owner 😂

roosterman71

davidk1394 wrote: »

With the clover silage bales. Air pockets were forming around the edge of the bales where the soft hands caught the bales and causing them to rot.

Why would the elephant lad not do the same thing? It too has to grab and it has to squeeze the bale in order to be able to lift it

GrasstoMilk

davidk1394 wrote: »

One careful owner 😂

Can happen. I wrecked the bonnet on our first massey here taking straw bales out of a shed. Bale fell down and crushed the bonnet

Jb1989

roosterman71 wrote: »

Why would the elephant lad not do the same thing? It too has to grab and it has to squeeze the bale in order to be able to lift it

More wrap on the ends

davidk1394

Jb1989 wrote: »

More wrap on the ends

Yeah that's what I was going to say. Your grabbing the ends where theres the most amount of plastic

roosterman71

Can't grab the ends if you want to stack them on their end though

davidk1394

roosterman71 wrote: »

Can't grab the ends if you want to stack them on their end though

I'd go back to stacking them on the rounds.

roosterman71

They aren't mine! I'll stack them whatever way the farmer asks me to. Most places is the bottom row on their end, with them on the round on the 2nd row. Only 1 place I bring bales to goes to 3 high and they are all on the round

Reggie.

roosterman71 wrote: »

They aren't mine! I'll stack them whatever way the farmer asks me to. Most places is the bottom row on their end, with them on the round on the 2nd row. Only 1 place I bring bales to goes to 3 high and they are all on the round

Always stack on the end here. Even 3 high

funkey_monkey

Reggie. wrote: »

Always stack on the end here. Even 3 high

I hope to do some end stacking here this incoming year in a fenced and stoned level compound. For those doing end stacking do you put your second row directly onto of the first or do you taper in by half a bale, a bale, or go straight up?
I think we'd only need to go to two rows for our crop, but was wondering what you all do.

I see that the pyramid method (side stacking) is the recommended method from the dept (how many chock the bottom layer?) but Ecosyl state that you can do it on the ends but "you can't stack them so high".
It has been reported that the squeezes used for end stacking can cause problems with deforming bales and letting air in more so than side stacking, but from reading on other forums people have had issues too with pyramid stacking on the sides.

roosterman71

If on the ends, would try set row 2 sitting across 4 bales. To demonstrate, get yourself 4 chocolate digestives and put them on the table 2x2 to make a square. Then put a 5th right in the middle on top. Finally, make tea, eat biscuits

hopeso

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I hope to do some end stacking here this incoming year in a fenced and stoned level compound. For those doing end stacking do you put your second row directly onto of the first or do you taper in by half a bale, a bale, or go straight up?
I think we'd only need to go to two rows for our crop, but was wondering what you all do.

I see that the pyramid method (side stacking) is the recommended method from the dept (how many chock the bottom layer?) but Ecosyl state that you can do it on the ends but "you can't stack them so high".
It has been reported that the squeezes used for end stacking can cause problems with deforming bales and letting air in more so than side stacking, but from reading on other forums people have had issues too with pyramid stacking on the sides.

I stack two high on their side (the way they drop from the baler). I never saw any need to chock the bottom layer on level ground. However, there is a bit of a slope at one end of the slab, and I'd always chock the bottom layer there. It doesn't take much. I'd usually use a couple of forks of fairly clean bedding at each bale. It could nearly be removed again after a couple of days, when the bottom of the bale flattens a little.

Donald Trump

Reggie. wrote: »

Always stack on the end here. Even 3 high

They'd hold their shape better alright I'd say but on their sides, you'd be sealing up the middle ones when they sink into each other. Not much air left in there between them. Maybe on their ends keeps the a bit better if you do have a few over until the start of the next winter?

Generally go 5 high around here so stacking on their ends wouldn't be an option. Ones that are baled a bit wet get fairly squashed on the bottom but there'd be ones baled grand and dry that hardly sink or deform at all even with the 5 high.Well they obviously sink, but I mean the bottom row are still round and not pancaked