Wheel locknut fecked

Stallingrad

So looks like a wheel locknut was over torqued last time out, and the removal key is rounded and useless.

Buying another removal key and hoping I can get the over torqued bolt off looks like the only option.

But what the hell do I do if this doesn't work?

pablo128

Stallingrad wrote: »

So looks like a wheel locknut was over torqued last time out, and the removal key is rounded and useless.

Buying another removal key and hoping I can get the over torqued bolt off looks like the only option.

But what the hell do I do if this doesn't work?

Hammer an old socket onto the locknut, and then give it a sharp jolt downwards. Use your bodyweight, stand on it if you have to.

Toyotafanboi

pablo128 wrote: »

Hammer an old socket onto the locknut, and then give it a sharp jolt downwards. Use your bodyweight, stand on it if you have to.

I wouldnt even bother with a new key, jump straight to this above.

PsychoPete

I use a small chisel to break off the outer shell first then hammer a socket over the lock nut

neilthefunkeone

Similiar a few weeks ago.. tried the socket trick but it was well on and couldnt get it to bite.. ended up going over to a place in finglas and they had it off in 5 mins..

jmreire

Before you hammer on another socket, give the wheel nut a few good hard belt's of a 4 pound hammer....I find that putting the flat end of a ball pein hammer on the head of the bolt, and whacking that with the 4 pounder can definitely help shock the bolt a bit, before hammering on the socket to twist it off. Any car I'm buying, I insist that the locking wheel bolt is removed, and I'll replace it with a standard hexagonal one. I'll take my chances with wheel thieves.

jmreire

neilthefunkeone wrote: »

Similiar a few weeks ago.. tried the socket trick but it was well on and couldnt get it to bite.. ended up going over to a place in finglas and they had it off in 5 mins..

Did you see how they did it by any chance? I have seen induction magnetic heaters used for loosening tight rusted nuts and bolts, but I have never seen it used on wheel stud's.

neilthefunkeone

jmreire wrote: »

Did you see how they did it by any chance? I have seen induction magnetic heaters used for loosening tight rusted nuts and bolts, but I have never seen it used on wheel stud's.

Looked like the ones in the link below. Didnt use an impact.. just a big breaker bar.. used a sledge to knock it on!!


https://www.agmpartscomponents.co.uk/sealey-sx271-impact-locking-damaged-wheel-nut-removal-sockets/

Stallingrad

neilthefunkeone wrote: »

Similiar a few weeks ago.. tried the socket trick but it was well on and couldnt get it to bite.. ended up going over to a place in finglas and they had it off in 5 mins..

Can you post or PM their details? Thanks.

jmreire

neilthefunkeone wrote: »

Looked like the ones in the link below. Didnt use an impact.. just a big breaker bar.. used a sledge to knock it on!!


https://www.agmpartscomponents.co.uk/sealey-sx271-impact-locking-damaged-wheel-nut-removal-sockets/

Yeah, I'd say that would do the trick all right....the shape of the socket will cause it to twist as it's hammered on, and the breaker bar will do the rest. Unfortunately, murphy's law being what it is,,,you will not be near a tyre shop or garage when you need to change a wheel. Which is why I exchange the lock nut for a standard one when ever I get a car.:cool:

Stallingrad

Stallingrad wrote: »

So looks like a wheel locknut was over torqued last time out, and the removal key is rounded and useless.

Buying another removal key and hoping I can get the over torqued bolt off looks like the only option.

But what the hell do I do if this doesn't work?

Leave it alone until you can bring it to somewhere that has an impact gun, if there is any purchase on it that might get it off.

Stallingrad

Thanks everyone, boards at its best, things don't seem so hopeless now!

Will take it to get sorted and swap the four locknuts for normal bolts.

whiskeyman

Don't stand / jump on it.
Mate broke his ankle doing it and I nearly did same.