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AIR CON COMPRESSOR HELP???

  • 09-12-2019 9:59pm
    #1
    userfriendly2
    Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭


    Hi all,

    I'm wondering if anyone out there more might be able to help me with an issue. I'm working on a small split AC unit and the compressor won't kick in.

    Background is:

    Indoor seems to be working fine - probes are good and there is power to the indoor PCB.

    Indoor fan kicks in and outdoor fan also kicks in.

    Solenoid on the 4 way valve is energising and I can here the click to open the valve.

    I have 230V at the outdoor and I replaced the 35 micro farad capacitor. I also have 230 from capacitor direct to the compressor.

    I ohmed out the windings on the compressor and they check out fine. No burnouts and it's not shorted to ground either.

    There is no outdoor PCB and no error codes on the indoor. The compressor is not drawing any amps and is not overheating, indicating to me that it is not locked rotor amps.

    I might be missing something simple here and maybe fresh eyes or opinions will help but I'm stumped?

    I'll be writing the unit off i'd say if I can't figure it out but i'd like to go back at it one more time before I do.

    Anyone any ideas?? and thanks in advance.

    B
    Tagged:


Comments

  • #2
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Looks like you have tested that its not locked by liquid refrigerant or seized, by confirming no current draw....

    Did you check phase and N are present at the compressor rather than just checking the phase? Any O/L on the compressor circuit?


  • #3
    al2009
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 176 ✭✭al2009


    Have you put gauges on it? Is it an inverter unit?


  • #4
    userfriendly2
    Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭userfriendly2


    It has an internal thermal o/l, I did think this could be an issue, maybe its wrecked, Can I check that by connecting the common and testing continuity from further back at say the capacitor and the start winding?? The unit was tripping and short cycling intermittently last week but when I checked it then it was humming away fine on heating and cooling so displayed no symptoms, and can honestly say not sure about the N at the compressor??


  • #5
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    To test if there is 230v at an item requires a tester with 2 probes, such as a multimeter.


  • #6
    userfriendly2
    Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭userfriendly2


    Bruthal wrote: »
    To test if there is 230v at an item requires a tester with 2 probes, such as a multimeter.

    Yeah I have 230V at each point right to the compressor. At the outdoor terminals, at the starting capacitor and at the compressor itself. Im just not sure how to diagnose a faulty built in thermal O/L? I was thinking that if it was faulty it would break continuity of the circuit at some point before the windings? Would I be correct in saying that or am I missing something here?


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  • #7
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    You woukd expect an ohms reading through the start and run windings at the compressor anyway if it is OK.


  • #8
    userfriendly2
    Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭userfriendly2


    al2009 wrote: »
    Have you put gauges on it? Is it an inverter unit?

    Sorry just seen this - Yeah gauges went on, pressure had equalised. I called manufacturer and they said O/L was fried and stuck open. It's internal so write off job.

    Thanks again for all your help guys, I'm sure i'll need it again at some stage.

    B


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