Central heating issues new boiler

scalesd2

Hi Guys, any help here be greatly appreciated.

I have had some issues with our heating since it was installed in april. during autumn i noticed it was pumping over into the F/E tank. An expansion vessel and auto bleed valve fitted to deal with this. After this the radiators in the bedrooms stopped working. the cause was decided to be a flush not being done when new boiler fitted in april(grant euroflame outdoor unit). Since then we been having problems with bedroom radiators, the flush was done and magneclean fitted, new return valves fitted as he thought they may have been blocked. When the plumbers were in all the rads were hot. then tonight when all downstairs rads were off and when we only need a room at 18-20 degrees during night for newborn they dont work. We have the evohome honeywell installed and smart trvs on all rads, i have even popped them off and manually opened valves and no heat. it almost seems random when they work upstairs. for example tonight the nursery was working around 4/5pm and now not. back bedroom getting hot but not front room opposite. when we moved in it had an old boiler and all rads in the house heated up fine. We replaced it with a more efficient model and got the evohome as we got a grant for it. There are 13 radiators in the house, bathroom rad upstairs fine. Master bed was working at 6pm also but cold then all night. He did mention that the bedrooms had gunbarrel and then copper risers to the rads as the potential problem, this wasnt seen during a survey, and its all copper in rest of house and attic, i dont know how he would know if no floor was lifted.

John.G

Simple checks first, is the pressure gauge on the boiler front reading between 1.0 and 2.0 bar.? You fitted a new Grant Euroflame in April which has its own expansion vessel so you will now have two expansion vessels which you probably need anyway with 13 rads. Grant recommend the external E.vessel to be fitted as near the circ pump as possible, on the suction side.
You mention return valves, do you mean non return valves, and if so why are they fitted? Is the zoning done with a circ pump for each zone (hence the NRV on each pump) or is there just one pump which is now normally fitted on the boiler flow and separate motorised valves on each zone?. You might post the make/exact model of the pump or pumps and if possible, their setting(s).
Can’t comment on your control system .

Wearb

Has all the signs of non-return valves. Probably poorly fitted solid fuel backboiler/stove?

Jpscoles

John.G wrote: »

Simple checks first, is the pressure gauge on the boiler front reading between 1.0 and 2.0 bar.? You fitted a new Grant Euroflame in April which has its own expansion vessel so you will now have two expansion vessels which you probably need anyway with 13 rads. Grant recommend the external E.vessel to be fitted as near the circ pump as possible, on the suction side.
You mention return valves, do you mean non return valves, and if so why are they fitted? Is the zoning done with a circ pump for each zone (hence the NRV on each pump) or is there just one pump which is now normally fitted on the boiler flow and separate motorised valves on each zone?. You might post the make/exact model of the pump or pumps and if possible, their setting(s).
Can’t comment on your control system .

Sorry its a grant euroflame 70-90. The new vessell is in hot press and pump is in boiler in garden 10/15 meters away. The non return valves were replaced. As far as i know the pump is within the boiler. The boiler wasnt on when i arrived home this morning it overheated and needed a reset. No hot rads upstairs atall today or hot water.

System is zones with honey well evohome, with. 3 port smart valve on cylinder and separate motorized valves for 12 zones(2 rads in 1 room, 11 other rooms). The 12th plumber to call out claimed yesterday the gunbarrell pipes in upstairs in the house are the culprit and a repipe needed, meaning pulling up solid oak floors in each room.

I attached pics of ‘GB’ pipes

scalesd2

Wearb wrote: »

Has all the signs of non-return valves. Probably poorly fitted solid fuel backboiler/stove?

No back-boiler or stove in house. Was working well even before with a small 30 year old boiler when we moved in. The system needed to be powerflushed badly before new boiler and rep from the heating company went through that with me and charged me for it. Subby who fitted boiler lied about doing it, made a balls of the installation or the smart controls and was never back. We have had 11 other plumbers since then fixing 1 problem or another

John.G

Jpscoles wrote: »

Sorry its a grant euroflame 70-90. The new vessell is in hot press and pump is in boiler in garden 10/15 meters away. The non return valves were replaced. As far as i know the pump is within the boiler. The boiler wasnt on when i arrived home this morning it overheated and needed a reset. No hot rads upstairs atall today or hot water.

System is zones with honey well evohome, with. 3 port smart valve on cylinder and separate motorized valves for 12 zones(2 rads in 1 room, 11 other rooms). The 12th plumber to call out claimed yesterday the gunbarrell pipes in upstairs in the house are the culprit and a repipe needed, meaning pulling up solid oak floors in each room.

I attached pics of ‘GB’ pipes

What are the non return valves for?? or where fitted? You also state that you have 12 zones so are each of these motorized valves opened/closed from the Evohome control system? if there is say only one/two opened at the time then the boiler will almost certainly trip out on the O/heat stat IMO, at the very least there should also be a automatic by pass valve (ABV) installed.
You also state a 3 way smart valve is fitted to the cylinder, some of these are diverter valves ie you can either heat the cylinder (via its coil) only or divert the water to the central heating system only, the other type of 3 way valve, I think, can either feed the cylinder or the central heating or both together and is called a mid position valve, you might post the details of this, also the pump details.
If you run say "4 rads" together does the boiler perform OK?.

Wearb

scalesd2 wrote: »

No back-boiler or stove in house. Was working well even before with a small 30 year old boiler when we moved in. The system needed to be powerflushed badly before new boiler and rep from the heating company went through that with me and charged me for it. Subby who fitted boiler lied about doing it, made a balls of the installation or the smart controls and was never back. We have had 11 other plumbers since then fixing 1 problem or another

MOD NOTE. because you've accused somebody of lieing please be careful not to post any information that could lead to identification.

scalesd2

Wearb wrote: »

MOD NOTE. because you've accused somebody of lieing please be careful not to post any information that could lead to identification.

I wont name anyone, ill leave that for joe duffy

scalesd2

ad came back today, balancing valve was closed stopping water for upstairs rads. His apprentice must have closed it he said, working fine heatwise all rads hopping and boiler doing fine, but the honeywell system needs to be recalibrated. Too many people using it when repairing system and its not binding to boiler, so no heat demand from bedrooms to boiler relay. Specialist coming tomorrow to re sync it all and hopefully to god 8 months of torture is over.....then ill call joe duffy

DGOBS

Why is Joe Duffy a good plumber?

rightjob!

How did this turn out in the end?

jimf

rightjob! wrote: »

How did this turn out in the end?

joe duffy wont ans the phone too busy

Jpscoles

right. this saga continues.

We found out back when i posted that the first plumber capped a pipe and ran radiator feed for upstairs though the zoning valve on the hot water. So they only worked when hot water was on. This was figured out after two lads spending all day flushing rads, fitting magnaclean etc thinking it was a blockage.

since then we have had 2 more kerosene leaks from our first service, 1 that left an inch of kerosene in garden and required chemicals to sort, second leak was fixed but they havent shelled out for the treatment yet.

As a sign or good faith they re routed pipes to boiler as i removed a deck they were under. But since then hot water was an issue, barely heating etc 38 degrees max. i was told to open balancing valve, i also moved the motorized valve lever a few times and it seemed to be working normal, quickly to 60 degrees.

The issue since last night is now when a radiator is on, the water is being heated too. A eph controls v228p 2 port motorized valve is what zones the HW and the CH, and like i mentioned seemed to be actuating and working when called by the evohome system. I suspect this valve may be failing.