Anyone commute/daily on older bikes?

conor2469

I only have one bike which I use to ride to work in and out of Dublin everyday, its a 1996 Transalp 600. Does anyone else daily on an older bike? I don't see that many older machines in the commuter traffic. My daily commute has recently increase from 25km per day to 100 km per day and I'm starting to think that I should upgrade to something with better lights and brakes!

CJhaughey

As bikes go that engine is pretty reliable as you well know, not to mention quite efficient as well.
In terms of braking it probably falls short though and the electrical system is not really up to running high draw stuff like grips and bigger lights without an upgrade.
That said a new Mosfet reg/rec unit and a decent wiring harness will make the most of what you have and allow better charging and more efficient lighting to be installed Good LED/HID can make a huge difference.

New brake pads and a rebuild and braided brake lines will often make the brakes feel much better.

I regularly commute on a 98 Deauville and it has worse lights than the TA but better brakes.

Honda NC series are designed as commuter bikes and have a lot going for them not least great economy so it might be worth looking around for a 700 or 750 if you feel that the TA isn't doing it for you.
I will say that the XL600's were a great machine though, Honda knows how to build a very reliable bike and those engines if maintained well are good for well over 100k miles with no issues.
CDI units, Regulator rectifiers and waterpumps are the only real problems that they have and all are solvable.

conor2469

CJhaughey wrote: »

As bikes go that engine is pretty reliable as you well know, not to mention quite efficient as well.
In terms of braking it probably falls short though and the electrical system is not really up to running high draw stuff like grips and bigger lights without an upgrade.
That said a new Mosfet reg/rec unit and a decent wiring harness will make the most of what you have and allow better charging and more efficient lighting to be installed Good LED/HID can make a huge difference.

New brake pads and a rebuild and braided brake lines will often make the brakes feel much better.

I regularly commute on a 98 Deauville and it has worse lights than the TA but better brakes.

Honda NC series are designed as commuter bikes and have a lot going for them not least great economy so it might be worth looking around for a 700 or 750 if you feel that the TA isn't doing it for you.
I will say that the XL600's were a great machine though, Honda knows how to build a very reliable bike and those engines if maintained well are good for well over 100k miles with no issues.
CDI units, Regulator rectifiers and waterpumps are the only real problems that they have and all are solvable.

Mechanically the bike has been great, the clock is showing 77K km and the engine is running sweet and doesn't use much oil at all.

The brakes would not inspire confidence, the 96 still has the single front disc. The back caliper is starting to ask for a rebuild. I had to rebuild the front when I got the bike 2 years ago.

When I got the bike it had two additional driving lights fitted to the crash bars, I removed them when I took the crash bars off to repaint and still haven't re-fitted. I'm hoping when I fit those and fit a brighter Osram nightracer bulb the light situation will improve a bit, the last few kms of my journey are on a country road and last night in the rain I couldn't see a thing.

I see a few older Deauvilles on the ride in, I envy the shaft drive and the fairings, reckon it would be far comfier on the motorway than my bike.

Fabio

conor2469 wrote: »

Mechanically the bike has been great, the clock is showing 77K km and the engine is running sweet and doesn't use much oil at all.

The brakes would not inspire confidence, the 96 still has the single front disc. The back caliper is starting to ask for a rebuild. I had to rebuild the front when I got the bike 2 years ago.

When I got the bike it had two additional driving lights fitted to the crash bars, I removed them when I took the crash bars off to repaint and still haven't re-fitted. I'm hoping when I fit those and fit a brighter Osram nightracer bulb the light situation will improve a bit, the last few kms of my journey are on a country road and last night in the rain I couldn't see a thing.

I see a few older Deauvilles on the ride in, I envy the shaft drive and the fairings, reckon it would be far comfier on the motorway than my bike.

Try a 700 Deauville. I use one almost everyday and it'd fit the bill perfectly for you.

zubair

If you’re keeping the bike and changing the bulb get The GE 130, been through a lot of bulbs including the osrams and these have the best pattern for a bike.

CJhaughey

You sound pretty competent with the spanners,
My list of things to do would be first replace the reg rec unit with a scrap FH011AA prefix MOSFET, I have bought these cheaply from ebay off 04-08 R1's these have massive fins on them and consequently aren't as sought after as the FH012 and similar.
Fitting it is easier if you cut the fins off it with a hacksaw and file them flat.
I don't know the stator output but if needed a Deauville/NTV should be around 320w which is a direct fit to the XL600V

If you are confident at electrical crimping then make up a harness direct from Stator to the R/R and then from R/R direct to battery.
If you can't do this reliably then buy one from Easternbeaver who will make one to your specs and then you solder it to the stator output wires.
This will give you increased and reliable charging which will help run electrical loads which can over tax the stock system.
Now think about uprating lights.
The stock Honda system is marginal when new but will fail at some point and take the battery and other stuff with it.

Front brakes can be rebuilt use EBC HH pads for best effect, They take a 6 hole mount disc but not sure of the caliper hole spacing on yours
I got a local shop to make a caliper spacer and fitted a 320mm disc and Brembo goldline caliper on my 1988 Dominator which came off a 98 SLR650, this works very well, much better than the stock Nissin which was very wooden feeling.
With a 21" front wheel I think twin discs are overkill and much heavier, a good single disc is good enough IMO.

I'd try fresh EBC HH Pads and a braided line/ master cylinder rebuild first.
Scrub the disc down with acetone and a scotchbrite pads as well to get any crap out of the disc.

H_Lime

Connor, sort the charging and earth's you will be rid of a big weak point. A set of well aimed spots and perhaps a suitable led bulb for the headlight should help you see and be seen.

As CJ says, bung in a mosfet. Fitted one to my old bird lately

Drilled the adjacent subframe webbing for earth. Old Hondas love steady voltages;) Whole charging circuit is happier and battery/alternator health shouldn't slide.

CJ, never knew of the fh011aa. https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-R1-5VY-Reg-Rec-Regulator-FH011AA-35/352896397716?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Ftype%3D4%26campid%3D5336834714%26toolid%3D10001%26afsrc%3D1%26customid%3D61111X1383796X274e75d194662751ae6690b53d0b941a%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fitm%252FYamaha-R1-5VY-Reg-Rec-Regulator-FH011AA-35%252F352896397716%253Fhash%253Ditem522a43b194%253Ag%253AV00AAOSwej9d-Tuc%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2229847406658%26rvr_ts%3D279f77fa16f0a4cc02b0f427fff3eec7&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true
That's half as cheap as I get mine and like you say once given a haircut a great cheap alternative.
I use fh008 because the existing pigtails make a great loom and have stock of delphi weather pack connectors in the drawer, but will try to source some fukawara (sp?) ones for yours.

That era 2 pot sliders were never great when new so if you want to bypass old tech do as CJ says. It's possible his SLR adapter might fit the alp spacing.
Surprised you cleared the spokes with the gold line caliper CJ, they're blocky. Great anchors tho! Fitted them and some one off 320mm discs on the aprilias, they stop time

Doing similar to my new old Dr Big too.

conor2469

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice regarding electrics, bulbs and braking. Lots of reading and research for the Christmas. Currently checking ebay for R1 reg rec, found this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-R1-5VY-Reg-Rec-Regulator-FH011AA-35/352896397716?hash=item522a43b194:g:V00AAOSwej9d-Tuc

It looks pretty chunky, I'll have to check where the transalp one sits the check it will fit.

I have crimping and soldering tools and lots of pieces of old looms so should be able to cobble together a loom to suit a different reg rec.

Is it possible to buy the Yamaha R/R plugs off eastern beaver or did you just crimp spade connectors to connect to the R/R?

I'm already running hot grips and once I bring the spot lights back I'm sure the additional electrical load will warrant these upgrades.

macplaxton

I've done just over 3 years commuting on a 99 BMW R1100RT @86km 5 days p/w (although I've been lazy since October and haven't turned a wheel because I've ended up importing a car I've had for a while). Bike has 210k km on it now.

Lights are fine and it's got heated grips. Worst thing about it at that age is electrics - I really need to do some rewiring/terminal connector replacement. Also need to do some brake stuff and the clutch will need replacing soon. It can be tough keeping on top of all the jobs when working outdoors (too much crap in the shed and would need to take the mirrors off to get it through the door).

The reason you don't see me is that I work backshift from 4pm to 2am. :P

CJhaughey

conor2469 wrote: »

Hi guys,

I have crimping and soldering tools and lots of pieces of old looms so should be able to cobble together a loom to suit a different reg rec.

Is it possible to buy the Yamaha R/R plugs off eastern beaver or did you just crimp spade connectors to connect to the R/R?

I wouldn't recommend cobbling together this loom, it needs to be right.
Any weak points will be found out and the results won't be good.
Easternbeaver sell the plugs on their own the spade terminals are the same as the normal ones but the difference is the weatherproofing on the Furukawa terminals.
TBH the premade looms are the way to go.

Agent_47

Doing 100km round trip to work each day on an '07 Kawasaki ER6F. Bike has 100 k km and has taken a battering with the the rain recently. Worried about the the electrics as I lost a headlamp bulb last week and it took an age to start yesterday.
Me thinks a new bike is warranted ðŸ˜

conor2469

CJhaughey wrote: »

I wouldn't recommend cobbling together this loom, it needs to be right.
Any weak points will be found out and the results won't be good.
Easternbeaver sell the plugs on their own the spade terminals are the same as the normal ones but the difference is the weatherproofing on the Furukawa terminals.
TBH the premade looms are the way to go.

Cobble is just a term I use when referring to creating something from existing pieces that I already have in the garage, perhaps it was the wrong word to use, I don't half-ass things, If I am going to go to the effort of doing something I want it to stay working.

I will try and find the specific plugs, I like to minimise water ingress whenever possible

Agent_47 wrote: »

Doing 100km round trip to work each day on an '07 Kawasaki ER6F. Bike has 100 k km and has taken a battering with the the rain recently. Worried about the the electrics as I lost a headlamp bulb last week and it took an age to start yesterday.
Me thinks a new bike is warranted ðŸ˜

The bad rain in the last week has affected my bike too, water has gotten into the control panel of my hotgrips, I had to open it up, dry it out and reseal it, fun times....

emo72

91 xj900 for me. Next year it will be 30 years old and cheap tax. I love this bike.

zubair

Agent_47 wrote: »

Doing 100km round trip to work each day on an '07 Kawasaki ER6F. Bike has 100 k km and has taken a battering with the the rain recently. Worried about the the electrics as I lost a headlamp bulb last week and it took an age to start yesterday.
Me thinks a new bike is warranted ðŸ˜

Bulb probably blew when trying to start it. I'd change the battery if it's a few years old.

H_Lime

Anyone reading this thread and is put off by talk of fancy connectors read on as it ain't rocket science. If you don't know how to solder a 10 quid soldering iron and YouTube tutorial will show you. Likewise heatshrinking.

Buy one of these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR1000RR-fireblade-ABS-RECITIFIER-REGULATOR-OEM-BREAKING-SPARE-08-17/333248239421?hash=item4d9724973d%3Ag%3A5jkAAOSwFDBdA2mp&LH_ItemCondition=4
Cut the plugs off.
Solder the three yellow to the three yellow on the bike in no particular order.

Cut off the other plug off, there's a red and green wire. Solder this with a 30amp fuse installed... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Inline-Car-Fuse-Blade-Holder-30Amp-12V-Splash-Robinson-K265/170976134151?epid=25026727171&hash=item27cef8c407:g:NvoAAOSwtGNZzh9k
...to the red wire and put a ring terminal on the end. This goes to the + of the battery.

Put another ring terminal on the other green wire. This goes to the - of the battery or gets bolted to the (uncoated bare metal) subframe for earth.

The original earth and positive feed wires that were going into the old regulator are to be taped up separately and tidied away.

Happy Christmas lads;)

davidglanza

I daily my kawasaki gpz900r never misses a beat

blade1

davidglanza wrote: »

I daily my kawasaki gpz900r never misses a beat

I think I was looking at your gpz at the Christmas run.
Nice bike but I was a little concerned about your exhaust around the collector box area.

ZX7R

Commute on a Honda varadero ,20 years old now.
Electric up grade's mainly.
Mosfet R//R
Upgrade the battery to one that can carry a heavier load.
Changed the slator to a referb upgrade one.(made the biggest difference to everything )
Engine fitted manual tensioners carbs rebuilt stage 1 jets added made a big difference with fuel economy

CJhaughey

Older Honda's run the earth through the frame, not the best way to ensure reliable operation after a few years worth of corrosion.
Run direct from rectumfrier to battery and avoid one more point of failure.

H_Lime

CJhaughey wrote: »

Older Honda's run the earth through the frame, not the best way to ensure reliable operation after a few years worth of corrosion.
Run direct from rectumfrier to battery and avoid one more point of failure.

I see it differently CJ. My blackbird actually showed better numbers with the earth to subframe.
The battery neg terminal itself earth's to the frame or engine via the solenoid. A direct earthing point close to the rr bypasses an ageing loom and the potential for high resistance in old connectors. This is why my bird was marginally better this way.
This is common too on Africa twins and a host of other stuff. The key is to use quality wire of the correct gauge, decent crimping and bare metal thats been greased so it won't corrode.
Were getting pedantic now as either methods grand, I've used both methods on many bikes:)
First thing I do with any of my or my mates bikes old bikes is run additional an earth, especially aprilias.

davidglanza

blade1 wrote: »

I think I was looking at your gpz at the Christmas run.
Nice bike but I was a little concerned about your exhaust around the collector box area.

Ya the exhaust is ****ed in it.
I have a 4 in to 1 stainless for it but think id prefer buy an original set.

blade1

davidglanza wrote: »

Ya the exhaust is ****ed in it.
I have a 4 in to 1 stainless for it but think id prefer buy an original set.

You'll have a job so trying to get original ones.

Gpz's are rising a bit in value.
UK
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-search?postcode=al40jy&make=KAWASAKI&model=GPZ900&advertising-location=at_bikes&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=Used&page=1

Japan
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d409454132?lang=en

Agent_47

So for those of us commuting daily how and what are you using to clean the bike?

Between dampness, rain and road salt mine needs more than a power wash. Do you guys use foam or muc off and a pressure washer?

How do you cope with damp.........

davidglanza

blade1 wrote: »

You'll have a job so trying to get original ones.

Gpz's are rising a bit in value.
UK
https://www.autotrader.co.uk/bike-search?postcode=al40jy&make=KAWASAKI&model=GPZ900&advertising-location=at_bikes&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly%20New&onesearchad=Used&page=1

Japan
https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d409454132?lang=en

Hopefully they keep rising in price..lol

Lorddrakul

Until November, I did a 60km round trip commute on an 87 VF1000.

It has modernised suspension, and a few other bits from a previous owner. After some initial niggles, I got it reliable.

The experience was that it eats tyres and brake pads, chains etc. The sheer heft of it (260kg kerb weight) means it gets through the consumables rapidly when in daily use.

Even pushing it in and out of the shed was a fair work out.

Despite it being an object of lust for a while, I fell out of love with it and it just became a chore to ride.

I retired it for a five year old Z1000sx.

The main problem with the older bikes is not necessarily that they are unreliable, it can be that getting bits, even consumables, can get difficult. You might end up with a limited tyre choice, maybe just one or two brake pad manufacturers etc.

If a bike is in regular use, it will wear out, and you will get issues, but anything from the 90s on is going to be of sufficient standard to run for decades.

The VF is in the shed currently. I think it is sulking.

H_Lime

Lorddrakul wrote: »

Until November, I did a 60km round trip commute on an 87 VF1000.

It has modernised suspension, and a few other bits from a previous owner. After some initial niggles, I got it reliable.

The experience was that it eats tyres and brake pads, chains etc. The sheer heft of it (260kg kerb weight) means it gets through the consumables rapidly when in daily use.

Even pushing it in and out of the shed was a fair work out.

Despite it being an object of lust for a while, I fell out of love with it and it just became a chore to ride.

I retired it for a five year old Z1000sx.

The main problem with the older bikes is not necessarily that they are unreliable, it can be that getting bits, even consumables, can get difficult. You might end up with a limited tyre choice, maybe just one or two brake pad manufacturers etc.

If a bike is in regular use, it will wear out, and you will get issues, but anything from the 90s on is going to be of sufficient standard to run for decades.

The VF is in the shed currently. I think it is sulking.

Interesting and honest assessment!
Was the reason for the lost love that it perhaps didn't live up to your expectations to ride? Do you think as a weekend or leisure bike it will be more engaging?

What older bike would work for you?

Lorddrakul

Despite it having modern suspension, modern wheels and modern tyres, the brakes were dire.

It has two-pot sliding calipers on small, rigid double discs.

Despite using braided hoses, carbon ceramic pads and race fluid, they never worked very well. In the end I went with a radial master cylinder, which improved things a lot, but it only masked problem.

The issue was that no matter what you ever did with it, it was still big, long, low, heavy and lazy steering. The engine was a peach, and my seat of the pants dyno said about 110+ RWHP, with masses of torque (much work by previous owner). On long runs, it was great, but for the commute and traffic fighting, it just became a chore. So with its appetite for consumables too...

I found more and more excuses not to use it. But it refused to die

I had a test spin on a 97 VFR750 and it was a revelation. Despite the fact that I had a ZXR750R as a track bike, I kind of forgot just how good a relatively light, faster steering bike can be.

Then, I decided to just go for the SX on the basis that life is too short to struggle with a bike that doesn't do it for you.

The SX is epic! 230kg kerb weight (mine is less with a seat cowl replacing the back seat, grab handles removed and blanked and a LiPo battery), 142 BHP, 80 ft lbs of torque and relatively short wheelbase and fairly quick steering. Four pot radial brakes with radial master cylinder. And of course, the 190 section rear tyre looks like it is for rolling silage

The VF still looks amazing, but I just couldn't live with it day to day. I put 30k km on it in three years, mainly commuting and it was good to get the classic bike thing out of my system.

I am currently looking for crash bungs for the SX and booking a March track day.

Horses for courses.

But as regards old bikes. If I had the time or inclination, vario-bars, fully adjustable rear sets and a gel seat for the ZXR750R would have made it the perfect bike for me. Handled beautifully, fast enough, bullet proof, nearly idiot proof and still upgradeable, should you desire. As it was, I sold it for more than I bought it, as it is now highly desirable among the classic superbike crowd.

Hotblack Desiato

blade1 wrote: »

I think I was looking at your gpz at the Christmas run.
Nice bike but I was a little concerned about your exhaust around the collector box area.

Yep weak spot on that bike, my one went too, was able to get new aftermarket stainless collector pipes for it and keep the original silencers, but that was 14-15 years ago. Getting 18" rear tyres for it was a struggle even then. I still have it but it hasn't turned a wheel in years

H_Lime

Lorddrakul wrote: »

But as regards old bikes. If I had the time or inclination, vario-bars, fully adjustable rear sets and a gel seat for the ZXR750R would have made it the perfect bike for me. Handled beautifully, fast enough, bullet proof, nearly idiot proof and still upgradeable, should you desire. As it was, I sold it for more than I bought it, as it is now highly desirable among the classic superbike crowd.

You should do that. With those mods the bike is more usable in an everyday situation.
I have a gra for blackbirds but I could not live with ergos so I fitted the Convertibars. They're a great product and offer more adjustability than the variobars I had previously. I had to change lots to use the full adjustability but once I dialled them in they are the best mod I've made to her.

mamax

Commuting on a 20 year old tdm850 and she's never let me down and does not burn oil like some of them do so unless the engine blows I'll have it for another 10 years.
I've added a scottoiler, handguards, heated grips, screen extender, crash bars, extra stop/tail light, 2 sets or drl's, top box (rack & side bags when needed)
I wash it every fri or sat and keep an eye on brakes/tires etc, over last year she's got new battery, fork bushes and seals, rear pads and soon due a service (every 6 months) and this time I'll flush and fill with new coolant.
In this country you have to do weekly checks and keep your bike well maintained well if your gonna commute, otherwise it just won't last.

CJhaughey

mamax wrote: »

Commuting on a 20 year old tdm850 and she's never let me down and does not burn oil like some of them do so unless the engine blows I'll have it for another 10 years.
I've added a scottoiler, handguards, heated grips, screen extender, crash bars, extra stop/tail light, 2 sets or drl's, top box (rack & side bags when needed)
I wash it every fri or sat and keep an eye on brakes/tires etc, over last year she's got new battery, fork bushes and seals, rear pads and soon due a service (every 6 months) and this time I'll flush and fill with new coolant.
In this country you have to do weekly checks and keep your bike well maintained well if your gonna commute, otherwise it just won't last.

Wise words, the wet gritty salty crap on the roads this time of year is particularly harsh on bikes.