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hkc SW812 - damaged signal wires to panel - PIR battery possibility

  • 24-02-2020 1:44pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60 ✭✭


    Hi All,


    I got my SW812 reset because of intermittent DMC FTC fault. Different company than original so they couldn't keep settings. I wanted to set back up myself (against advice) as want to do some home automation which will come later. In setting back up I had 4 issues:
    1. faulty PIR, always open - I have replaced
    2. A PIR was wired for non-EOL, everything else was double-EOL - in the panel box I could see the twisted 4.7k resistors sitting in the end of the box, ready to be plonked into PIR, maybe he misplaced it and just non-EOLed the last one . . but anyhow that took me a few hours to figure
    3. one zone was constantly open/alarming - I multimetered each side and found that at some point in the cable run the 2 signal wires were cut (open) - the 2 x 12v wires were still active
    4. another zone would not alarm - again I multimetered and this time found that wires were cut closed this time, so the signal was always closed even when PIR triggered, again the 12v was working


    So, I think my alarm system was not setup well. 3 zones could not have worked, with 1 of them set to unused. From looking at the LED flash of the PIR it would have appeared to be fine, but looking at the config would have shown disabled - if I had the hindsight to do a walk test if that was enabled for user access



    Just wondering are there any PIRs that can send a signal via 2 wires but take power from battery (I could reroute the 12v cables to signal in the box)?


    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    dauhee wrote: »
    Hi All,


    I got my SW812 reset because of intermittent DMC FTC fault. Different company than original so they couldn't keep settings. I wanted to set back up myself (against advice) as want to do some home automation which will come later. In setting back up I had 4 issues:
    1. faulty PIR, always open - I have replaced
    2. A PIR was wired for non-EOL, everything else was double-EOL - in the panel box I could see the twisted 4.7k resistors sitting in the end of the box, ready to be plonked into PIR, maybe he misplaced it and just non-EOLed the last one . . but anyhow that took me a few hours to figure
    3. one zone was constantly open/alarming - I multimetered each side and found that at some point in the cable run the 2 signal wires were cut (open) - the 2 x 12v wires were still active
    4. another zone would not alarm - again I multimetered and this time found that wires were cut closed this time, so the signal was always closed even when PIR triggered, again the 12v was working


    So, I think my alarm system was not setup well. 3 zones could not have worked, with 1 of them set to unused. From looking at the LED flash of the PIR it would have appeared to be fine, but looking at the config would have shown disabled - if I had the hindsight to do a walk test if that was enabled for user access



    Just wondering are there any PIRs that can send a signal via 2 wires but take power from battery (I could reroute the 12v cables to signal in the box)?


    Thanks

    If you disconnect the 12V at the panel can you check and see if any other cores are working. Strange you would just have the power only.
    You could use point ID PIRs which use 2 for power and one for data if you had 3 working. Other than that you would be looking at rewiring the sensors or upgrading and installing a hybrid system that will allow you add wire free devices.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60 ✭✭dauhee


    Thats super thanks for that Altor. If I did go with the hybrid (sw-10270 model I believe), could it be a direct swap from the 812 panel, and then do the configs on it, or would wiring be different?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,855 ✭✭✭✭altor


    dauhee wrote: »
    Thats super thanks for that Altor. If I did go with the hybrid (sw-10270 model I believe), could it be a direct swap from the 812 panel, and then do the configs on it, or would wiring be different?

    It is a replacement so not just taking out PCB and swapping to new one.
    Take photos and mark each cable so you know where they go in new system.
    If you have some sort of list from old zones that will help with reprogramming.


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