Importing from the UK - definitive guide (Q and A)

Jane98

Hi,

I'm in the process of importing an English 2017 Mazda Cx-5 but I have just noticed that in the MOT hstory, the last MOT in Mar 2020 it passed but with an advisory of "Offside Rear Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f))"

Can anyone tell me what this means, how easy it might be to fix it and whether it should prevent a sale?

Atlantic Dawn

Jane98 wrote: »

Hi,

I'm in the process of importing an English 2017 Mazda Cx-5 but I have just noticed that in the MOT hstory, the last MOT in Mar 2020 it passed but with an advisory of "Offside Rear Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f))"

Can anyone tell me what this means, how easy it might be to fix it and whether it should prevent a sale?

Basically means handbrake wasn't tight enough on the passenger side, minor issue that could happen on any car, simple to resolve by either tighening or fitting new brake shoes.

bazz26

But isn't the handbrake on those an electronic parking brake rather than a traditional hand brake leaver with a cable?

Jane98

bazz26 wrote: »

But isn't the handbrake on those an electronic parking brake rather than a traditional hand brake leaver with a cable?

Yes it is.

deezell

Jane98 wrote: »

Hi,

I'm in the process of importing an English 2017 Mazda Cx-5 but I have just noticed that in the MOT hstory, the last MOT in Mar 2020 it passed but with an advisory of "Offside Rear Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f))"

Can anyone tell me what this means, how easy it might be to fix it and whether it should prevent a sale?

Brake binding is not when the brakes pads are not tight enough, it's when the brakes pads or shoes don't release after the handbrake is disengaged. When you move forward there is still brake resistance followed usually by a little jerk as the pads or shoes retreat under the motion pressure from the drum or shoes. The handbrake mechanism needs a good cleaning, if it's a shoe and drum service brake the disk/drum might need removing to access and clean out all the accumulated shoe residue and dirt, with a little lubricant applied to the levers. If it a motorised handbrake operating on the main disk brake pads, again the motor mechanism might need to be removed and cleaned out, also the brake pads could be sticking in the caliper due to general crap and corrosion.
Clean clean clean, wire brush, and a little anti seize grease on moving parts, but well clear of pad/shoe surface.

Jane98

deezell wrote: »

Brake binding is not when the brakes pads are not tight enough, it's when the brakes pads or shoes don't release after the handbrake is disengaged. When you move forward there is still brake resistance followed usually by a little jerk as the pads or shoes retreat under the motion pressure from the drum or shoes. The handbrake mechanism needs a good cleaning, if it's a shoe and drum service brake the disk/drum might need removing to access and clean out all the accumulated shoe residue and dirt, with a little lubricant applied to the levers. If it a motorised handbrake operating on the main disk brake pads, again the motor mechanism might need to be removed and cleaned out, also the brake pads could be sticking in the caliper due to general crap and corrosion.
Clean clean clean, wire brush, and a little anti seize grease on moving parts, but well clear of pad/shoe surface.

So am I right in thinking its not a huge job to fix (assuming it hasn't been done already by the dealer or the person who owned it at the time) and should not be a barrier to buying?

Jane98

What's the best website to do a comprehensive check on a UK car?

deezell

Jane98 wrote: »

So am I right in thinking its not a huge job to fix (assuming it hasn't been done already by the dealer or the person who owned it at the time) and should not be a barrier to buying?

It's no biggie.

dickdasr1234

Jane98 wrote: »

What's the best website to do a comprehensive check on a UK car?

From personal experience, avoid Motorcheck!

danoriordan1402

I got an AA check done last week, very happy with it - went as far as advising the bonnet nuts were removed as some stage suspecting a bonnet respray/fix. Then he tested all around with the digital paint depth detector to see if there was any resprays - fairly detailed report with a few things to look at!
Even the dealer said that was one of the better reports done by that guy, he has a bit of a reputation for being enthusiastic

Still buying the car though

forgot to add, if your with the AA here you can blag for a discount even though you have to call them, its a different AA membership thing over there but they were happy to give me 20Quid off over the phone

masit

I've bought a few cars in the UK over the years but thinking of bringing in a VW Amarok next. It'll be a N1 commercial vehicle. Am I right in saying that there is no NOX on this type of vehicle? I don't have a business so it will be private. VRT on 1 jeep I was looking at is coming in at €1003, would this be right? This low? Going to VRT a car on Thursday and it's coming in at €1500. Can't believe the Amarok is showing this low.

Mf310

Does anyone know anyone else than flippingcars to bid on cars for you?

sayno

There is a man near me who bid on a Q3 for me last week. He also sorted out transport and VRT appt. PM me if you want a number

deezell

masit wrote: »

I've bought a few cars in the UK over the years but thinking of bringing in a VW Amarok next. It'll be a N1 commercial vehicle. Am I right in saying that there is no NOX on this type of vehicle? I don't have a business so it will be private. VRT on 1 jeep I was looking at is coming in at €1003, would this be right? This low? Going to VRT a car on Thursday and it's coming in at €1500. Can't believe the Amarok is showing this low.

N1 VRT is 13.3% of OMSP. VRT of €1003 means an OMSP of about €7500, which must be a fairly old example, 2010-2011. A reasonable year amorak , 2013 say, would have OMSP of about €13k, VRT of €1726. The VRT remains the same for a private importer, but road tax will be based on CC not emissions, not too bad for a 2l at €710 as against the commercial rate of €333, but fairly stiff for the 3l at €1495. No Nox charge on N1, but you must get DoE version of the NCT every year, not every 2.

masit

deezell wrote: »

N1 VRT is 13.3% of OMSP. VRT of €1003 means an OMSP of about €7500, which must be a fairly old example, 2010-2011. A reasonable year amorak , 2013 say, would have OMSP of about €13k, VRT of €1726. The VRT remains the same for a private importer, but road tax will be based on CC not emissions, not too bad for a 2l at €710 as against the commercial rate of €333, but fairly stiff for the 3l at €1495. No Nox charge on N1, but you must get DoE version of the NCT every year, not every 2.

Yeah, it’s a 2011 with high mileage. Just 1 I was looking at up the North. God, the tax is fairly steep on the 3 litre. I’ll try and keep to the 2.0’s so!!

LillySV

Bogwoppit wrote: »

Nonsense, I saved at least 5 1/2k on my last car, bought up north. 17 1/5k brought in vs 23-24 here.

What u buy and when? Have u looked at prices recently

Bogwoppit

LillySV wrote: »

What u buy and when? Have u looked at prices recently

I bought in May, it doesn’t really matter what I bought.

LillySV

Bogwoppit wrote: »

I bought in May, it doesn’t really matter what I bought.

U bought it in may... big difference then... I could’ve made big saving then but I was a fukin idiot who didn’t act on it

It’s not the same value now

Bogwoppit

LillySV wrote: »

U bought it in may... big difference then... I could’ve made big saving then but I was a fukin idiot who didn’t act on it

It’s not the same value now

Well I just checked prices on what I bought and they haven’t changed much, prices in the north up a little but not much, corresponding price here hasn’t changed at all, still plenty of savings to be made.

LillySV

Bogwoppit wrote: »

Well I just checked prices on what I bought and they haven’t changed much, prices in the north up a little but not much, corresponding price here hasn’t changed at all, still plenty of savings to be made.

Maybe it’s just my choices .. I’m looking for 300bhp plus estates or suvs... 2015 era....

FLOOPER

Does anyone know what the new NOx and VRT charges will be from Jan 1st.

AFAIK as long as the car is brought in before Jan 1st there'll be no issue with Brexit and importation taxes so presumably you can book a VRT after.

deezell

FLOOPER wrote: »

Does anyone know what the new NOx and VRT charges will be from Jan 1st.

AFAIK as long as the car is brought in before Jan 1st there'll be no issue with Brexit and importation taxes so presumably you can book a VRT after.

http://budget.gov.ie/Budgets/2021/Documents/Budget/BUDGET%2021_Tax%20Policy%20Changes.pdf
Page 14.

FLOOPER

deezell wrote: »

http://budget.gov.ie/Budgets/2021/Documents/Budget/BUDGET%2021_Tax%20Policy%20Changes.pdf
Page 14.

Thanks but doesn't really give me any comparable values just the new ones.

Just really want to know will there be much difference in charges on a 2lt diesel 2015 with low NOx.

Don't need exacts. Educated ball parks would suffice.

Atlantic Dawn

FLOOPER wrote: »

Thanks but doesn't really give me any comparable values just the new ones.

Just really want to know will there be much difference in charges on a 2lt diesel 2015 with low NOx.

Don't need exacts. Educated ball parks would suffice.

Euro 6 was September 2015, no diesel after this can emit more than 80mg/km of NOx so absolute max is €600.

https://www.revenue.ie/en/importing-vehicles-duty-free-allowances/guide-to-vrt/calculating-vrt/calculating-the-nox-charge.aspx
https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/tips-advice/90816/euro-6-emissions-standards-what-do-they-mean-you

deezell

FLOOPER wrote: »

Thanks but doesn't really give me any comparable values just the new ones.

Just really want to know will there be much difference in charges on a 2lt diesel 2015 with low NOx.

Don't need exacts. Educated ball parks would suffice.

The existing rates of VRT are easily found, a quick search and you have them.
https://www.revenue.ie/en/tax-professionals/tdm/vehicle-registration-tax/vrt-manual-section-08.pdf
Page 11.
Look up the emissions of the car. Find your old VRT rate in this document. Use the formula in the previous document to convert your old NEDC emissions to the new WLTP emissions. Use the new table in the same document to find the new VRT rate. Apply that percentage difference to the OMSP of the car you are looking at. You can get this from the ros VRT online calculator. Do similar for the Nox, which has also changed.
There's no magic casual list that will tell you what you want, there are so many variables, you have to work it out on a vehicle/emissions/Nox/age/milage basis, then convert to WLTP and manually adjust using the new tables. It's a bit of work, as everything is in the real world, (unlike the Trump style Twitter world where an opinion pulled our of your arse is a fact).
A 2015 diesel car will cost more. Thats pretty much a fact.

beggars_bush

what is the best way to pay vrt? bank draft on the day?

sayno

They will accept card payments

Buffman

beggars_bush wrote: »

what is the best way to pay vrt? bank draft on the day?

Card, as you won't know the exact VRT amount until they tell you, what you get on the online calculator may not be exactly what they ask for on the day.

Hogzy

How long are people waiting at the moment for an inspection by Revenue? I had my VRT appointment the other day and was told I needed a Revenue inspection as they needed to determine what extras were on the car. Apparently revenue text you with a time? Do they come to the house or what?

bazz26

Lol, they don't come to your house, they are not the Gestapo. Revenue have all the info they need from the car's VIN that they get from the NCT centre. It can take 10 working days for them to come back but because of Covid it's taking longer.