Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Test - Shoulder checks

Options
13»

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 33,915 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    my bike has over 80,000 (miles) on it original clutch zero wear issues or problems or lack of grip.

    i would use neutral at lights maybe every 50 lights stops where its an extra long wait. so rarely.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,721 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Changing mine tonight, graunchy! IMG-20200312-193330.jpg
    Couldn't resist:pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,706 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    I always thought the rear brake 'method' served two purposes, engaging the rear brake light so cars approaching you from behind will more likely be alert that you're actually stopped since the light is brighter.

    Having both front and rear brakes activate the brake light has been a requirement for over 30 years now. My first bike only showed a brake light with the rear brake.

    I did my test in 1996, and staying in gear when stopped was a requirement. Its a nonsense. Also had to ride as if there were no mirrors or indicators, which was even more of a nonsense.

    I did the RoSPA test 3 years later, always used neutral when stopped and it was never commented upon, and the roadcraft book is much more about objectives rather than techniques if you get me. Not having either brake engaged when stopped would be a no-no, though.

    Holding the clutch in causes more wear on the release bearing, and is a PITA if your clutch action is at all heavy. There's no practical need for or benefit to doing it.

    Going into and out of neutral when the bike is stationary and idling doesn't cause wear to the clutch plates as no power is being transmitted.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,915 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Having both front and rear brakes activate the brake light has been a requirement for over 30 years now. My first bike only showed a brake light with the rear brake.

    I did my test in 1996, and staying in gear when stopped was a requirement. Its a nonsense. Also had to ride as if there were no mirrors or indicators, which was even more of a nonsense.

    I did the RoSPA test 3 years later, always used neutral when stopped and it was never commented upon, and the roadcraft book is much more about objectives rather than techniques if you get me. Not having either brake engaged when stopped would be a no-no, though.

    Holding the clutch in causes more wear on the release bearing, and is a PITA if your clutch action is at all heavy. There's no practical need for or benefit to doing it.

    Going into and out of neutral when the bike is stationary and idling doesn't cause wear to the clutch plates as no power is being transmitted.


    This is like the horns all over again, stop flogging it, the horse is dying in the ditch.

    If holding in the clutch causes where over the lifetime of your bike id suggest not buying the bike off amazon daily deals.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,776 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    I did the RoSPA test 3 years later, always used neutral when stopped and it was never commented upon, and the roadcraft book is much more about objectives rather than techniques if you get me. Not having either brake engaged when stopped would be a no-no, though.

    I'm a long qualified RoSPA too, but the 'driving' test alone has it's own foibles, not all of which I agree with btw (on either 2 or 4 wheels). But it is what it is, to pass it.

    Btw, on the subject of heavy clutch action, had a kit fitted to my H-D not long ago that reduced effort by 40%. Should have done it 10 years ago..... :rolleyes:

    I was even thinking about fitting one of these: Rekluse automatic clutch kits. Popular off road in the US too.

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 34,706 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    listermint wrote: »
    This is like the horns all over again, stop flogging it, the horse is dying in the ditch.

    If holding in the clutch causes where over the lifetime of your bike id suggest not buying the bike off amazon daily deals.

    Whatever. The clutch is designed to be held in for seconds at a time, not minutes. It may well withstand such use but it's not the intended method of use. Mechanical sympathy...

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



Advertisement