Bike Service

bbari

Hi,

I got my current (1st) bike in 2014 and have cycled about 1,500KM so far. Didn't use it last 2 years. I took it out few times last week. I never got it serviced since I got it (sorry). I lubricated the chain with some chain spray from Lidl (sorry again). I have cycled it on dry days only, kept it clean and its always kept inside the house. There are no cracks/dents etc. I was thinking to have it serviced but then i thought I should try serving it myself. Could someone please point me in right direction as in what tools and materials do i need? I can do basic diy (i think) and hopefully its straightforward to service? Bike is Giant Defy 2.

TIA

saccades

bbari wrote: »

Hi,

I got my current (1st) bike in 2014 and have cycled about 1,500KM so far. Didn't use it last 2 years. I took it out few times last week. I never got it serviced since I got it (sorry). I lubricated the chain with some chain spray from Lidl (sorry again). I have cycled it on dry days only, kept it clean and its always kept inside the house. There are no cracks/dents etc. I was thinking to have it serviced but then i thought I should try serving it myself. Could someone please point me in right direction as in what tools and materials do i need? I can do basic diy (i think) and hopefully its straightforward to service? Bike is Giant Defy 2.

TIA

Sounds like it has had a soft life tbf.

Look up "park tools" videos on YouTube.

I expect new tyres/tubes, new cables and/or tune too.

magicbastarder

you'll have trouble sourcing the parts/tools to service it.
if it's been kept inside and cycled on dry days, i would expect cables should be OK - i have been known to get ten years from the cables out of a bike which never got wet and got similar levels of use.

as saccades mentioned, worth having a close look at the tyres to see if there's any drying or perishing of the rubber.

Tony04

It depends if you doing this just once or not. If not its worth buying tools, however if you doing it just once bring it to the bike shop for a service.
Replace the cables and tyres check the chain for wear clean the bike with bucket of dish soapy water. Degrease and relubricate drivetrain. Dont use spray lube it makes a mess.
Watch park tool and gcn videos to see what to do.

What you will need:
Tyres- your choice
Tubes- your choice
Chain checker- https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/park-tool-chain-checker-cc-3-2/rp-prod5784
Cable cutter- https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/park-tool-cable-housing-cutter-cn-10/rp-prod7202
Bar tape-
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/lifeline-performance-bar-tape-with-gel/rp-prod155626
All weather lube- https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-performance-lube-with-teflon/rp-prod78591
Cleaner-https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/weldtite-tf2-performance-lube-with-teflon/rp-prod78591
Gear brush-https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/park-tool-gear-clean-brush-gsc-1/rp-prod7212
I would usally buy cables in bike shop as they are expensive online, but not sure now.

bbari

Thanks lads for your help.
I am going to degrease, clean and apply the lube on the chain/drive train. I'll also lubricate all the cables. Tyres are in good shape and bike in general was always keep clean, i even applied wax (car detailing ocd)! Perhaps I'll get going with the above and if I come across any funny noises etc, I'll have it serviced in a bike shop.

magicbastarder

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9c-1gzzE3U

handily enough, posted online today. made in ballymun.

Roadtoad

I think ye are over-egging the omelette, with only 1500km up.

Chain: oil.
Tyres: 100 psi. Remove any embedded stone or glass chips. Should be good for 3000-5000 km, but the originals may have been a bit cheap.
Brakes: Pulling sharply, with lots of spare rubber on the pads?
Gearing: Are all the sprockets reachable, or at least enough to satisfy all reasonable use (if you are not going into the mountains the granny is hardly needed).
Any loose or missing spokes? Probably a pro job to fix properly, someone with a piano tuner mentality needed here.
Are the wheels spinning true? (as spokes, above)

Don't spend the next 6 years putting a mere 1500 km up. Carry a pump, tyre levers, spare tubes and a multi tool.
-

bbari

Roadtoad wrote: »

I think ye are over-egging the omelette, with only 1500km up.
it was more to ensure that I'm not under-egging

Chain: oil.
Ordering one now.

Tyres: 100 psi. Remove any embedded stone or glass chips. Should be good for 3000-5000 km, but the originals may have been a bit cheap.
Original Giant tyres and they are clean and i always pump to 100psi before going out.

Brakes: Pulling sharply, with lots of spare rubber on the pads?
Yes

Gearing: Are all the sprockets reachable, or at least enough to satisfy all reasonable use (if you are not going into the mountains the granny is hardly needed).
Not going to mountains and they are all reachable.

Any loose or missing spokes? Probably a pro job to fix properly, someone with a piano tuner mentality needed here.
None loose/missing

Are the wheels spinning true? (as spokes, above)

Don't spend the next 6 years putting a mere 1500 km up.
Thats the plan sir!


Carry a pump, tyre levers, spare tubes and a multi tool.
Have all this.


Thank you.

-

.

ted1

Tools= multi tool or set of Allen screws and screw driver.
Screw driver to trim gears look up GCN o YouTube

Allen keys for pretty much everything else

Chain whip to replace cassette and a chain breaker to break chaint

Parts to replace. Gear and brake cables about 4 euro each if got online.

Brake pads about 18 euro.

New chain about 25 euro.

All sourced online and once again use the GCN channel as a guide.

magicbastarder

i suspect it doesn't need a chain if it's only done 1.5k in dry weather.

bbari

me again.....

I been out for spin 3/4 times in the last couple of weeks. Just noticed that the rear tyres has a couple of bumps on it, bulged? I guess I'd need a new tyre, perhaps change both? The original tyres were Giant S-R4 700x23c and they would have done 2,000KM, is this a normal life of bike tyres? I don't commute to work, its for weekly (or bi-weekly) spins only. Any recommendations please? is chainreactioncycles.com the place to order from?

magicbastarder

it could be that the tyre is delaminating. given the age, probably best to change - though i have used older tyres than that without issue. some photos might help.

f1000

bbari wrote: »

me again.....

I been out for spin 3/4 times in the last couple of weeks. Just noticed that the rear tyres has a couple of bumps on it, bulged? I guess I'd need a new tyre, perhaps change both? The original tyres were Giant S-R4 700x23c and they would have done 2,000KM, is this a normal life of bike tyres? I don't commute to work, its for weekly (or bi-weekly) spins only. Any recommendations please? is chainreactioncycles.com the place to order from?

https://www.merlincycles.com/schwalbe-durano-plus-addix-performance-folding-road-tyre-700c-187200.html

big fan of these tyres at the moment. Have been commuting mostly with no punctures and am confident in wet conditions too with them

bbari

magicbastarder wrote: »

it could be that the tyre is delaminating. given the age, probably best to change - though i have used older tyres than that without issue. some photos might help.

Picture attached

Type 17

bbari wrote: »

Picture attached

Yep, age-related issues. The left one is the nylon carcass of the tyre breaking up - it’s no longer safe to use in that state.

bbari

Any thoughts on this?

2 tyres: Continental Ultra Sport II Wire Bead Road Tyre - 700c
2 tubes

for €26 + shipment

https://www.merlincycles.com/continental-ultra-sport-ii-wire-bead-road-tyre-700c-83279.html

triggermortis

I agree with above. That tyre is shot. Another vote for those Durano Plus tyres as well, I have them on my winter/commuter bike and haven’t had a puncture in the 2 years I’ve been using them ( you still need to check the pressure regularly - they’re not idiot proof)... not that I’m calling you an idiot! You can’t just fit them and forget to check the pressures or you will get flats on any tyre

Type 17

Ultra Sport is Continental's budget road bike tyre - not bad quality, but low-spec, so will be heavier than fancier models, and has minimal puncture protection.

Note that the tubes aren't Continental (reasonable at that price).

A good price for budget items, but don't expect too much. If you're not using the bike hard, or every day, then they'll be fine.

Keep them pumped, as mentioned above (applies to any tyres).

bbari

triggermortis wrote: »

I agree with above. That tyre is shot. Another vote for those Durano Plus tyres as well, I have them on my winter/commuter bike and haven’t had a puncture in the 2 years I’ve been using them ( you still need to check the pressure regularly - they’re not idiot proof)... not that I’m calling you an idiot! You can’t just fit them and forget to check the pressures or you will get flats on any tyre

Thanks for that, i do pump it up to 100 every time i go out. That tyre isn't available in 23c though.

Type 17

23's are getting hard to get, as everyone has moved to 25's for better comfort and a little more grip (slightly bigger contact area).

99% of bikes that have 23's can take 25's (and your Defy will be fine).

Re: pumping to 100, here's something I wrote on another thread (consider your weight and tyre width and experiment with front/rear pressures and then choose the best ones for you):

Ideal tyre pressures should be based on rider & bike weight + tyre width, aiming for a sweet spot between rolling resistance, comfort, tyre-footprint/grip and preventing pinching/damage.
Eg: a petite/light rider (~70kg) on 32mm tyres might enjoy riding 65/70psi (front & rear)
A tall/heavy rider (~110kg) on 25mm's would be advised to use 110/120psi
Pumping to the max pressure of a tyre isn't necessarily faster, it's probably just more uncomfortable (which can actually slow you down) and has a smaller footprint (less grip).

bbari

Thank you for your help guys. I ordered that Durano + along with tubes.