Project Steel

magicbastarder

cletus wrote: »

Just make them as you need them, that's what I do

FYP

Cetyl Palmitate

CianRyan wrote: »

So this took a back seat for a few (too many) months, I was busy buying a house in the mean time!

I got back it today somewhat and cleaned it down, chipped off any loose paint and applied Nitro Mors and covered with cling film. I'll scrape the rest of the paint off tomorrow and see how it's looking.

I'll need to buy a few more tools and track down some new parts but I'd like to have it ridable by summer.







The shed is a mess but I'll be building a proper bench and little workshop.

Good luck with it.

If there is any possibility I would recommend combining the workshop with a work from home space. This multi-tasking setup has allowed the renovation of a variety of bikes over the last year!

8valve

I have to say..it's great seeing these old bikes being saved!

fair play to all of you.

Kaisr Sose

8valve wrote: »

I have to say..it's great seeing these old bikes being saved!

fair play to all of you.

I have on my old late 90's MTB on the road again for lockdown 5kms from home cycles. When you can't go far, it's about the time and head space, not speed and distance. Old bikes are so reliable and a dream to maintain.

I have my old 1989 Columbus SL disassembled and about to rebuild. The stem got siezed in the fork and in trying to twist it out one of the fork blades creased up, so a blessing in disguise there. I need to source a replacement fork. Unfortunately, and unknown to me, the old fork was dumped. Had I still got them, I could get Brendan in Kildare to make me a new one. I want to stay true to form and use 1" threaded and quill stem, not modern ahead stem.

I have been looking on ebay but anything I am interested in is going for big bucks or is not in great condition. I was close to buying a full SL frame just for the fork. It was sold for less the most Forks go for.

I will put a sealed BB in it, but stick with Campagnolo ISO square taper. The rest will be as per what I raced it with up to 93, including down tube shifters. It would not seem right to put new stuff on it. Anyway, I don't know if the rear seat stays will take 10sp without straining or damaging the brake bridge.

8valve

Kaisr Sose wrote: »

I have on my old late 90's MTB on the road again for lockdown 5kms from home cycles. When you can't go far, it's about the time and head space, not speed and distance. Old bikes are so reliable and a dream to maintain.

I have my old 1989 Columbus SL disassembled and about to rebuild. The stem got sized in the fork and in trying to twist it out one of the fork blades creased up so a blessing in disguise there. I need to source a replacement fork. Unfortunately, and I know to me, the old fork was dumped. Had I still got them, I could get Brendan in Kildare to make me a new one. I want to stay true to form and use 1" threaded and quill stem, not modern ahead stem.
I have been looking on ebay but anything I am interested in is going for big bucks or is not in great condition. I was close to buying a full SL frame just for the fork. It was sold for less the most Forks go for.
I will put a sealed BB in it, but stick with Campagnolo ISO square taper. The rest will be as per what I raced it with up to 93, including down tube shifters. It would not seem right to put new stuff on it and I don't know if the rear stay will take 10sp without straining or damaging the brake bridge.

Let me know what length steerer you need. I might be able to sort you out with something.

CianRyan

I can confirm that Nitro Mors is a shadow of it's former self. It seems to soften a layer at a time, not ideal.

I've gotten a bit off but I may look into having it blasted.
Seems to have some nice brasing, that'll look great when it's cleaned up properly.

Failed to get the pedals odd the cranks today, had a lot of heat and an impact gun but just broke two alen keys. The joys.

cletus

One or both pedals? The left (non drive side) pedal has a left hand thread

8valve

CianRyan wrote: »

I can confirm that Nitro Mors is a shadow of it's former self. It seems to soften a layer at a time, not ideal.

I've gotten a bit off but I may look into having it blasted.
Seems to have some nice brasing, that'll look great when it's cleaned up properly.

Failed to get the pedals odd the cranks today, had a lot of heat and an impact gun but just broke two alen keys. The joys.

Pedals come off easier with the cranks, chain and wheels still on the bike.


I might be a bit late advising that, though...


I usually stand on the pedal and use the leverage of a long pedal spanner to loosen them. A good soak of penetrating fluid beforehand always helps...the amount of bikes I see that have been assembled from new with no grease on the pedal threads is fairly annoying.

CianRyan

magicbastarder wrote: »

worth checking to see what the rear axle spacing is on it - if it's old enough it'll be 126mm.

i use BLO on woodturned items, had never considered it for steel.

Just offered up these and they were too wide (had them in my parents shed). Raging, I guess that's another for the list as the wheel it came with are in tatters.



Thanks for everyone's input so far, I think it goes without saying that I've dived into this as a learning experience. Clueless isn't the word.

I did at least know about the left hand threads, unfortunately I'm thinking years of abuse and going in dry is the real killer here. A steel bolt in an aluminium crank... That's there for ever now.

So, I can add two wheels, a new BB, cranks and pedals to my ever growing list. :pac:

cletus

Do what 8valve suggested, and put the crank back on to help move the pedal. The other option is to clamp the crank in a bench vice (soft jaws advisible). It can take a bit of work, but I got a fairly stuck set of pedals to move on a bike from the mid 80's.

magicbastarder

CianRyan wrote: »

Just offered up these and they were too wide (had them in my parents shed). Raging, I guess that's another for the list as the wheel it came with are in tatters.

check how wide the locknuts on it are. the wheels i had available had 5mm thick locknuts, but i swapped them for 3mm thick ones and hey presto...

iwillhtfu

cletus wrote: »

The other option is to clamp the crank in a bench vice (soft jaws advisible). It can take a bit of work, but I got a fairly stuck set of pedals to move on a bike from the mid 80's.

Do this, it has always been the saviour for me with seized pedals and use a good pedal spanner if you can.

cletus

Any luck with those pedals?

CianRyan

I haven't had a chance to look at it all week, I've have some cars that need fixing this morning but I do hope to get some time at the bike again later.

I just keep telling myself how great it will feel to ride. :pac:

cletus

CianRyan wrote: »

I haven't had a chance to look at it all week, I've have some cars that need fixing this morning but I do hope to get some time at the bike again later.

I just keep telling myself how great it will feel to ride. :pac:

Jesus, I can't believe you let your paying job get in the way of fluting around with bikes...

8valve

cletus wrote: »

Jesus, I can't believe you let your paying job get in the way of fluting around with bikes...

My paid job is flootering around with bikes.


In my spare time, I.......flooter around with older bikes.

CianRyan

Alas, my will is no longer my own.
I had planned to spend some time in my shed today but instead I spent time on too of it, it had an awful over hanging "porch" that blocked the sun from most of the right side of my garden so today I was put to work. I took about 3 foot off it and put a new front on it. Took hours longer than expected so afterwards I promptly ordered a pizza and cracked open a beer.

I did manage to get out to B&Q for some light switches, while I was there I got a sanding wheel attachment for my screw gun, works far better than my wire wheels at removing paint. Also picked up various grades of wet/dry so I can get a nice even finished.
Perhaps tomorrow but I'd also like to ride a bike.

CianRyan

I gave up on the power tools today and just went at it with some 40grit sand paper and what do you know, it worked a treat!
Finally took the chain off too, after pictures though.






Had a hot go at the pedals again, nope. Wrecked 2 allen bits and the areas themselves so that means I'll have to drill them out.
I'd love to keep the original cranks so I hope I can actually get them out, be it in 1 piece or 5000.

cletus

Job with the paint removal.

Pity about the pedals. Have you a pillar drill for drilling out? Be handier that a hand drill

magicbastarder

do you have a pedal spanner? you'd be less likely to round the flats out than you would be with allen bolts. also easier to get mechanical advantage on.

cletus

magicbastarder wrote: »

do you have a pedal spanner? you'd be less likely to round the flats out than you would be with allen bolts. also easier to get mechanical advantage on.

+1 on that. You can often get a normal spanner on too, if you don't have the pedal spanner

CianRyan

There's a pillar drill around the corner in my in-laws, honestly didn't even consider that!
It's a cheap belt driven one but it's worth a shot, the little 10v DeWalt is mighty but it's chuck is known to slip.

No specific spanner but I have good quality regular spanners, fits on nice and snug so I may out it in a vice and use a slip bar on it before I get the drill out, honestly though it could only open from the back.

Bring on pay day, I'm getting excited to spend money on parts now.
Must measure to make sure I order the correct headset bearings, I think it's a 1" but I better double check.

magicbastarder

CianRyan wrote: »

honestly though it could only open from the back.

not at all, the spanner is the bog standard way to go. you will get more leverage too.
as always, position yourself so if it does let go under load that you don't absolutely mash yourself off something (especially the teeth on the chainring)

CianRyan

Sound! I'll definitely give that a bash.
And yes, I've smashed my knuckles enough times to have learned this!
The scars I've picked up working with my hands are endless and a genuine pain in the...

eeeee

Stupid advice alert! I'm sure you know this already but they both unscrew to the back. I made that mistake the first time I went taking pedals off, it took me ages to get it off after!

Kaisr Sose

8valve wrote: »

Let me know what length steerer you need. I might be able to sort you out with something.

Thank you

The headtube is 110mm. Original fork was chromed, normal rake for the time (89)

Smilinpolitely

Looking for advice on where to buy parts for a restoration I started after Christmas. First time I attempted anything more than fixing a flat so I have no idea where to get cables for brake/derailer, bar tape, saddle etc. The bike is early 70's sun worksop i dug out of my fathers garage(growing cobwebs since early 90's). I have all the components removed from the frame, stripped the paint and have a primer applied, so far. Any advice welcome. Thanks.
Sorry I can't post pics as I'm too new to boards.ie

magicbastarder

cables, bar tape, saddle, should all be available in your local bike shop or online.
i'd suggest going to your LBS for them, so you can pester them with questions if necessary.

cletus

I thought we were going to see crank-less pedals (or is that pedal-less cranks)

Smilinpolitely

No bike shops anywhere around me so ill have to go online. Any sites you recommend?