Replacing sewerage straight access junction

garv123

Looking for a bit of help here, we've found a big crack in an access straight junction beside the treatment system. Looks like someone could have thrown stones down into it at some stage.

We'll be doing work in the garden soon so we'll have a digger that can dig down.

My question is, how much pipe either side of the box do we need to expose and what fittings do I need to reconnect the new junction, Is there some form of sleeve I can get?
Thanks

listermint

1 length of pipe.
2 straight connectors.
1 new junction.

You'll probably have to go a meter or more either side depends on how much movement you can get to slip the new pipes into either side of the junction.

garv123

listermint wrote: »

1 length of pipe.
2 straight connectors.
1 new junction.

You'll probably have to go a meter or more either side depends on how much movement you can get to slip the new pipes into either side of the junction.

Thats the problem I was trying to figure out., is there such a thing as a sleeve that'll allow you to slide over the pipe, put the junction in place, and slide it back over the 2. If that makes sense.

The inspection cover is probably less than 1m from the treatment system.

foxy farmer

Here's what you need. No central stopper ring allowing you to shove it back completely over pipe before fitting. Apply plenty lubrication (washing up liquid) and be gentle getting them in to final position.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.topline.ie/plumbing-heating/plumbing/drainage-sewer/sewer-fittings/wavin/u-drain/pvc-sewer-pipe-repair-collar-110mm&ved=2ahUKEwjA3IjPqfXoAhXkUBUIHfDeDN0QFjAAegQIAhAC&usg=AOvVaw2lyQ0uE7KuE0Ii91m-Tjso

GinSoaked

The other thing you need to do is to chamfer the edge of the pipe so it goes easily into the repair collar. Do that properly. clean the pipe and use plenty of lube (I use a silicon spay but washing up liquid is just as good) and the repair collar will slip over easily. Fail in the preparation and lube and you'll think the fittings will never go together.

garv123

Cheers lads. I work in plastic fabrication so I'll be able to chamfer and debur it at work and have it nice and tidy.
Is 110mm standard for domestic single treatment systems?

GinSoaked

Don't take anything for granted measure the pipe. Don't forget there will be ends of pipes in the ground that will need chamfering. Dig a hole big enough to give you plenty of room to work that also makes the job much easier. The other tip is to mark with a permanent marker pen where the final position of the collars should be. If I don't I end up wondering if I've pushed them on too far or not far enough.

listermint

Scissors are great for deburring more manipulation than a blade and less likely to slice yourself

MyStubbleItches

listermint wrote: »

1 length of pipe.
2 straight connectors.
1 new junction.

You'll probably have to go a meter or more either side depends on how much movement you can get to slip the new pipes into either side of the junction.

You’ll need two repair collars instead of the straight joiners.

Bass Reeves

A battery angle grinder will help if you have access to.one

listermint

MyStubbleItches wrote: »

You’ll need two repair collars instead of the straight joiners.

Repair collars make no difference to straight joiners with the access he has tbf

chooseusername

listermint wrote: »

Repair collars make no difference to straight joiners with the access he has tbf

Makes a big difference when you're down in a hole.

MyStubbleItches

listermint wrote: »

Repair collars make no difference to straight joiners with the access he has tbf

Yes they do, straight joiners have a stop in the middle. Repair collars don’t.

listermint

MyStubbleItches wrote: »

Yes they do, straight joiners have a stop in the middle. Repair collars don’t.

Yeah i know, which allows you to bang it up to the stop insuring accurate fit.

MyStubbleItches

listermint wrote: »

Yeah i know, which allows you to bang it up to the stop insuring accurate fit.

If you need to replace a section in an existing line, you’ll need repair collars. Anyway, it’s neither here nor there, neither of us is doing it.

listermint

MyStubbleItches wrote: »

If you need to replace a section in an existing line, you’ll need repair collars. Anyway, it’s neither here nor there, neither of us is doing it.

Hes not repairing a pipe he is taking out an entire junction.

I did one 2 years ago on my septic where it had subsided and brought down section of path with it.

Plenty of space.

Repair collars are more expensive than a simple straight and have their uses. restricted pipe repairs. We can agree on that.

MyStubbleItches

listermint wrote: »

Hes not repairing a pipe he is taking out an entire junction.

I did one 2 years ago on my septic where it had subsided and brought down section of path with it.

Plenty of space.

Repair collars are more expensive than a simple straight and have their uses. restricted pipe repairs. We can agree on that.

Fair enough, I’ll bow to your superior knowledge.

GinSoaked

MyStubbleItches wrote: »

Fair enough, I’ll bow to your superior knowledge.

It still needs at least one repair collar because one final joint has to be made between two fixed pipes. There is no way digging up a long section so you can force the pipes up to create a gap so you can use joiners is good practice. The pipes are forced in at an angle to the final joint so the seals can get pushed out and it can be tricky to maintain the fall because moving the pipes like that forces the sections still in the ground to move.

Repair collars aren't just used for repairs they are often used when extra connections are made to pipes

On price the repair collars and couplers are exactly the same price where I buy them and Goodwins also have them both at a whopping €3.25.

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Sewer-Pipe-Repair-Collar-110mm-4-.html
https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Sewer-Pipe-Coupler-110mm-4-.htm

garv123

GinSoaked wrote: »

It still needs at least one repair collar because one final joint has to be made between two fixed pipes. There is no way digging up a long section so you can force the pipes up to create a gap so you can use joiners is good practice. The pipes are forced in at an angle to the final joint so the seals can get pushed out and it can be tricky to maintain the fall because moving the pipes like that forces the sections still in the ground to move.

Repair collars aren't just used for repairs they are often used when extra connections are made to pipes

On price the repair collars and couplers are exactly the same price where I buy them and Goodwins also have them both at a whopping €3.25.

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Sewer-Pipe-Repair-Collar-110mm-4-.html
https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Sewer-Pipe-Coupler-110mm-4-.htm

Thanks for all the replies.

The above sounds like my plan, Because the straight junction has 2 joiners attached as standard.

Remove the old junction, Attach the pipe to 1 side of the junction as normal.

Cut approx 300mm off the opposite pipe and join the offcut to the junction, and use a repair collar to join the offcut to the rigid pipe.

How does that sound?

chooseusername

Spot on.

GinSoaked

garv123 wrote: »

Thanks for all the replies.

The above sounds like my plan, Because the straight junction has 2 joiners attached as standard.

Remove the old junction, Attach the pipe to 1 side of the junction as normal.

Cut approx 300mm off the opposite pipe and join the offcut to the junction, and use a repair collar to join the offcut to the rigid pipe.

How does that sound?

If you read the wavin guide thats exactly how they say to do it.

garv123

Anyone else fancy doing it for me...:pac: Free tea provided


While I'm at it, a downpipe from the upstairs ensuite has started leaking, on a 90 elbow by the looks of it. Can seals perish over time (15 years) or could something have just come loose.

All the sh!t jobs get done during lockdown.. Parden the pun:pac:

listermint

garv123 wrote: »

Anyone else fancy doing it for me...:pac: Free tea provided


While I'm at it, a downpipe from the upstairs ensuite has started leaking, on a 90 elbow by the looks of it. Can seals perish over time (15 years) or could something have just come loose.

All the sh!t jobs get done during lockdown.. Parden the pun:pac:

May have just shifted in wind if fittings are not secured to the envelope of the house fully. try just straightening it up first.

chooseusername

Sh1t jobs is right,
Garv123, I'd say you'd be better off figuring it out yourself.
Some of the advice on here can put you astray.
Most is good, you just have know who to listen to.