Tinkering; Like Guntering for the Connected Generation.

endainoz

emaherx wrote: »

What are the issues you have with the cable?

If less than 100m in length the cable connection should be much more reliable than any wireless setup.

Well to be honest there was a small bit of the wire exposed before it was fed into a pipe going under a gate, I may or may not have caught the exposed wire with the strimmer during the summer.

Anyway, I couldn't actually find any break in the cable but I lost connection to the shed. I have cut the cable back about three or four times but still no signal. I tried to connect the cable to a laptop closer to the router but still no joy.

minerleague

have desktop computer here 10 y old, ports for mouse keypad etc dont seem to be working right ( although speakers work in all ?) anything I can do? ( have to swap over keyboard and mouse to one port) yeah Im that clueless about tech

emaherx

I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.

minerleague

emaherx wrote: »

I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.

Yeah USB type ( keyboard, mouse, printer, speakers ) intermittent working esp keyboard ( contact cleaner ?? any good)

emaherx

you can use contact cleaner, but turn off / unplug PC while doing it and leave to dry.
But carefully clean out ports as best you can first with a cotton bud or even a cocktail stick.

Do any of the ports look damaged? like missing the centre piece?



Its a 10 year old PC so it could simply be on the way out. If you look inside the PC at the system board you may see blown capacitors (Bulging from the top or bottom), if this is the case it can produce symptoms like you describe.

timple23

What network sim are people using for gsm socket switches?

Anyone electrically minded on here? Above my potential fire starting skill level :pac:

I'm trying to make a home made batt latch using 12v battery, programmable timer, and a car door lock actuator.

The issue I'm having is the cylinder on the side of the actuator gets very hot, with a noticeable smell indoors.

The timer works in 1 minute increments at minimum, so power is on for a full minute. This is what I suspect is causing the issue but in truth I don't know 100%.

Any ideas of other causes?

https://youtu.be/T5Gkkwb1atU

_Brian

Do you need to include a pulse relay??

I’m away from electronics a while so forgive me.

They can be set that when they are activated they give a pulse out, the length of the pulse can be adjusted.

It would be a way of avoiding having the actuator receiving signal for a whole minute.

_Brian

_Brian wrote: »

Do you need to include a pulse relay??

I’m away from electronics a while so forgive me.

They can be set that when they are activated they give a pulse out, the length of the pulse can be adjusted.

It would be a way of avoiding having the actuator receiving signal for a whole minute.

I hadn't heard of one until you mentioned them, I'll take a look

Ak84

timple23 wrote: »

What network sim are people using for gsm socket switches?

Vodafone sims will work on the the 2G network, which is what a lot of GSM switches work off.

emaherx

[Deleted User] wrote: »

I hadn't heard of one until you mentioned them, I'll take a look

Yes a pulse relay should sort you out, most are preset for how long they will pulse, so look at the data sheet before ordering to make sure the pulse width is either adjustable or fits your requirement.

emaherx

emaherx wrote: »

Yes a pulse relay should sort you out, most are preset for how long they will pulse, so look at the data sheet before ordering to make sure the pulse width is either adjustable or fits your requirement.

That's good news as I've just burnt out an actuator :rolleyes:

Any notion how long or short of a pulse I'd need?

_Brian

Deleted User wrote: »

That's good news as I've just burnt out an actuator :rolleyes:

Any notion how long or short of a pulse I'd need?

Surely 1 second would be fine.

_Brian

_Brian wrote: »

Surely 1 second would be fine.

I'm told I need a 555 delay timer, saw one on a video and if I can waterproof it then we have the SUCCESS!!! :pac:

emaherx

[Deleted User] wrote: »

I'm told I need a 555 delay timer, saw one on a video and if I can waterproof it then we have the SUCCESS!!! :pac:

You could definitely use a 555 timer, but would probably need a relay as well to switch the actuator. The pulse relay is probably just a relay with integrated 555 timer.

I used a 555 timer years ago to get a car through a NCT retest, made the ABS light switch on for a few seconds and then off when the ignition switched on. The ABS was sorted later but parts weren't available before the time ran out for the retest.

emaherx

emaherx wrote: »

You could definitely use a 555 timer, but would probably need a relay as well to switch the actuator. The pulse relay is probably just a relay with integrated 555 timer.

I used a 555 timer years ago to get a car through a NCT retest, made the ABS light switch on for a few seconds and then off when the ignition switched on. The ABS was sorted later but parts weren't available before the time ran out for the retest.

Explain it to me like I'm 4

Before this post I thought I would have my 12v battery to timer (set for 1 minute), timer to 555 timer (which I could set to 1 second then off), 555 to actuator which hopefully doesn't then burn out?

What does the relay do or why would I still need it? (Genuinely don't know)

emaherx

Deleted User wrote: »

Explain it to me like I'm 4

Before this post I thought I would have my 12v battery to timer (set for 1 minute), timer to 555 timer (which I could set to 1 second then off), 555 to actuator which hopefully doesn't then burn out?

What does the relay do or why would I still need it? (Genuinely don't know)

You are going to need to grab your crayons and some paper.



Before we go too far down the rabbit hole have you found something you believe you can connect straight up? The 555 is just a little IC but you may have found a ready built circuit containing a 555 which may well work.

The 555 is a very useful little IC but it can't handle the same sort of current as your actuator so connecting them directly without a relay will most likely result in that burning smell that is now familiar to you. It also can't function without some other components such as resistors and capacitors. There are entire books dedicated to the 555 and its various configurations and I am an individual sad enough to have purchased more than one in the days before Google.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=555+timer+book&ref=nb_sb_noss

emaherx

emaherx wrote: »

You are going to need to grab your crayons and some paper.



Before we go too far down the rabbit hole have you found something you believe you can connect straight up? The 555 is just a little IC but you may have found a ready built circuit containing a 555 which may well work.

The 555 is a very useful little IC but it can't handle the same sort of current as your actuator so connecting them directly without a relay will most likely result in that burning smell that is now familiar to you. It also can't function without some other components such as resistors and capacitors. There are entire books dedicated to the 555 and its various configurations and I am an individual sad enough to have purchased more than one in the days before Google.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=555+timer+book&ref=nb_sb_noss

I was hoping for finger paints but crayons will do in a pinch!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Shield-Switch-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01K7CSPFM

That's just something I randomly picked from Dr. Google. Would this work?

emaherx

Deleted User wrote: »

I was hoping for finger paints but crayons will do in a pinch!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Shield-Switch-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01K7CSPFM

That's just something I randomly picked from Dr. Google. Would this work?

Ok, I believe that should work.
The 555 is just the small black chip, the larger Blue Box is a relay so that should have you covered as long as your actuator requires less than 10 amps. Good luck with your build and don't forget to share your finished product


Thanks to Amazon/wish/Alibaba for the endless supply of prebuilt modules people are never going to learn the basic circuit designs

minerleague

emaherx wrote: »

I assume they are USB ports? there is usually more than 2, maybe some on the front or top as well as the back of the machine.

If you only have one working USB port then a USB hub would be an option.


If they are the old round PS2 ports then your PC is probably older than 10 years old. Most PC's you couldn't swap the mouse and keyboard plug or they wouldn't work. If they are the round plugs then getting a USB keyboard and/or mouse would sort you out though.

Just to say got one of these (4 on one port) belated thanks

emaherx

minerleague wrote: »

Just to say got one of these (4 on one port) belated thanks

Great, glad to help.

emaherx

emaherx wrote: »

Ok, I believe that should work.
The 555 is just the small black chip, the larger Blue Box is a relay so that should have you covered as long as your actuator requires less than 10 amps. Good luck with your build and don't forget to share your finished product


Thanks to Amazon/wish/Alibaba for the endless supply of prebuilt modules people are never going to learn the basic circuit designs

I would be quite interested to learn how it works, I'm under time constraint at the moment as I'd hoped to get this perfected before lambs hit the ground That and I have in the region of 20 unread books on the shelf/kindle to get to as well.

Quite excited to see it in actually tbh, the thinking behind it is it will hopefully be easier to moved ewes and young lambs from paddock to paddock under their own steam rather than the dopey farmer and his dog which was chaos last year. I'll also be able to do multiple paddock moves in a day if it works well. That's hard to do with Batt Latches being €500 or so a pop :eek:

emaherx

[Deleted User] wrote: »

I would be quite interested to learn how it works, I'm under time constraint at the moment as I'd hoped to get this perfected before lambs hit the ground That and I have in the region of 20 unread books on the shelf/kindle to get to as well.

Quite excited to see it in actually tbh, the thinking behind it is it will hopefully be easier to moved ewes and young lambs from paddock to paddock under their own steam rather than the dopey farmer and his dog which was chaos last year. I'll also be able to do multiple paddock moves in a day if it works well. That's hard to do with Batt Latches being €500 or so a pop :eek:

Don't get me wrong I'm all for these cheap modules, it makes for very quick product design with relatively limited knowledge, but has made 4 years of circuit theory in college fairly redundant or at least it would have if I'd actually paid attention

Good luck with it, it's exactly the type of project that I was looking for when I started this thread. Keep us updated on your progress and/or fire situation.

Timmaay

I'm not gonna lie I got myself a batt latch (for roughly 450e), and this morning the cows weren't quite smart enough to walk back the 20ft to the gap themselves (worked out awkward the way I divided up the paddock). If I had an electrics design team under me to put the millions of designs into production that go through my head, I'd put a camera and loudspeaker on it also ha, so I can see and shout something at the cows to encourage them up (once they don't ignore me lol). Ok maybe I should just get a Boston dynamics dog instead. Or just get up 5mins earler hmmmmmm.

I'd been thinking about an audible thingy for my build, but it's more work than I want at the minute. Instead I might fix some visual tape or something to the bungee gate.

Dinzee Conlee

Timmaay wrote: »

I'm not gonna lie I got myself a batt latch (for roughly 450e), and this morning the cows weren't quite smart enough to walk back the 20ft to the gap themselves (worked out awkward the way I divided up the paddock). If I had an electrics design team under me to put the millions of designs into production that go through my head, I'd put a camera and loudspeaker on it also ha, so I can see and shout something at the cows to encourage them up (once they don't ignore me lol). Ok maybe I should just get a Boston dynamics dog instead. Or just get up 5mins earler hmmmmmm.

Oddly enough, I read on another forum that the person used an ice cream tub to make a louder noise when they end came back to hit it - so the cows would take more notice...

On another topic, one which I'm not going to be pursuing just now but maybe someone else might. Would this device interrupt the power of a battery energiser after the energiser?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTU5024-12V-GSM-Gate-Opener-Relay-Switch-Remote-Control-Wireless-Door-Opener-/224026313910

The only way I can turn mine on or off is to walk back to it, unlock the box, and physically switch it off, and repeat the journey to turn it on again.

Best device I bought on amazon for less than a tenner is a wifi socket for the electric fence
It needs internet access which we have in the parlour
But you cculd use one if you powered your fence from a garden shed in range of the house wifi or the house itself

Its app will turn off or on the fence anywhere via mobile internet from your phone once you pair the app to the scket

emaherx

[Deleted User] wrote: »

On another topic, one which I'm not going to be pursuing just now but maybe someone else might. Would this device interrupt the power of a battery energiser after the energiser?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RTU5024-12V-GSM-Gate-Opener-Relay-Switch-Remote-Control-Wireless-Door-Opener-/224026313910

The only way I can turn mine on or off is to walk back to it, unlock the box, and physically switch it off, and repeat the journey to turn it on again.

No not after the energizer it will melt as the relay won't be rated to 9000 volts. But between the battery and the energizer no bother.

rounders

Marine Layer wrote: »

Best device I bought on amazon for less than a tenner is a wifi socket for the electric fence
It needs internet access which we have in the parlour
But you cculd use one if you powered your fence from a garden shed in range of the house wifi or the house itself

Its app will turn off or on the fence anywhere via mobile internet from your phone once you pair the app to the scket

You can gets ones based on a sim card so no wifi needed. I've one of these in a out house with the Fence plugged in. Needing to keep the sim alive is the only issue. Networks seem to kill the sim after a while if you aren't spending credit

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Socket-GSM-Smart-Plug/dp/B01GQKCI7U/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=GSM+REMOTE+CONTROL+SOCKET+POWER+SWITCH+PLUG&qid=1620132473&s=diy&sr=1-5

EDIT - You can get ones with a Irish plug, just can't find the link right now. Talking about 30 - 40 quid