Smoking stove

GinSoaked

6541 wrote: »

I can confirm that photo 2 showed flue going out the top of the stove.
I always clean the Chimney myself.
Have a look at the attached photos

As already indicated that there is your problem. Sorry but the stove has to come out. You probably don't need to change the liner if you can replace the bottom damaged section of pipe with a length of vitreous enamel pipe, but you may not be able to do that inside the chimney.

I would suspect that the stove has been overfired (as already suggested) and that there might have been some saggy section of the liner hanging at the bottom which has taken all the heat perhaps because of a sag or bend in it.

Bottom line is I wouldn't use that stove until its been fixed.

GinSoaked

6541 wrote: »

The stoves burn really hot - how do you get the dial off the stove ?

If the stove burns really hot then use virtuous enamel pipe for at least the first section off the back of the stove, should be done like that anyway. There are two main standards for the liner and at a guess you may have the cheaper one which is easier to burn out.

The stove is probably designed to modern standards and can't be totally shut off like the old ones meaning it burns hotter but cleaner. Only thing you can do is shut everything down including the vent for the glass cleaning so you might have to put up with dirty glass.

6541

I really appreciate your help - So to summarize you say the enamel pipe is warped and should not be like the photo.

Are you saying this stove is a danger now and has to come out - i.e smoke is the least of my worries ?

GinSoaked

Hard to say what pipe that is. Ideally that first section should be enamel but often they run the liner all the way to the bottom, I don't think a cast iron pipe covered in vitreous enamel would melt like that. It might be a section of stainless steel flue.

It all needs to come out anyway. Probably best to start fresh and replace the whole liner with a top quality with a cast iron section at the bottom. Cast iron pipe is normally covered in vitreous enamel as a decorative effect and obviously for the heat.

chooseusername

GinSoaked wrote: »

If the stove burns really hot then use virtuous enamel pipe for at least the first section off the back of the stove, should be done like that anyway. There are two main standards for the liner and at a guess you may have the cheaper one which is easier to burn out.

The stove is probably designed to modern standards and can't be totally shut off like the old ones meaning it burns hotter but cleaner. Only thing you can do is shut everything down including the vent for the glass cleaning so you might have to put up with dirty glass.

Gin, the flue is from the top ,
Quote;
I can confirm that photo 2 showed flue going out the top of the stove.
I always clean the Chimney myself.

It looks like the flexi-flue is connected directly to the stove spigot and was melted.
Drop the liner down to connect with stove, then drop it a few more inches to be sure ,to be sure, and you've got Nora Batty stocking effect.
If there is a register plate and vermiculite (which I doubt) it's a very messy job.
It's a messy job anyway.

6541

chooseusername wrote: »

Gin, the flue is from the top ,
Quote;
I can confirm that photo 2 showed flue going out the top of the stove.
I always clean the Chimney myself.

It looks like the flexi-flue is connected directly to the stove spigot and was melted.
Drop the liner down to connect with stove, then drop it a few more inches to be sure ,to be sure, and you've got Nora Batty stocking effect.
If there is a register plate and vermiculite (which I doubt) it's a very messy job.
It's a messy job anyway.

You are giving me some hope - Are you saying take flexi flu out and try and drop new one down. Try this without having to remove fireplace ?

GinSoaked

6541 wrote: »

You are giving me some hope - Are you saying take flexi flu out and try and drop new one down. Try this without having to remove fireplace ?

Taking the old flue out would be a good start. Then you can see the damage on the old one.

The way I'd start to think about fixing it is this. Apologies to anyone who thinks its a bodge, it is but its to help save the OP removing the stove.

Firstly measure up and feel whats left at the bottom when the flexible flue is pulled out. You can then see what will fit in the top of the stove or over the top of any spigot on the top of the stove. Then I'd find a good long section of cast iron stove pipe (heavy) that will fit. With the damage section removed and the whole thing trimmed for length the cast iron section can be fitted on the end of the flexible liner so it won't come off. Then lower the flexible flue back down with the cast iron at the bottom. Just the weight of the cast iron should provide most of your seal and depending if it fits in or over whats sticking out of the stove you can probably further seal with fire cement. You will have to be careful sweeping but a 600mm length of cast iron pipe isn't going to go that far.

6541

I would like to thank everyone who helped me here.
I am not a major DIY guy. I am going to call the Plumber that originally installed this tomorrow. Hopefully I will get some traction.
Again, thank you all for your help.

chooseusername

6541 wrote: »

You are giving me some hope - Are you saying take flexi flu out and try and drop new one down. Try this without having to remove fireplace ?

Sorry 6541, I didn't make myself clear, this bit ;
(Drop the liner down to connect with stove, then drop it a few more inches to be sure ,to be sure, and you've got Nora Batty stocking effect.)
was how I assumed it was done originally , and now causing the problem.
Nora Batty stockings
Like Gin said , a length of solid pipe on end of flexi flue would work,provided no bends in the chimney.
make sure solid pipe and flue liner are right way up;
male on top, male bit into female bit (missionary position).
Working inside the stove with the baffle jammed in there won't be easy.

6541

I actually looked up Nora Batty stockings !!!

6541

Update.

I phoned the original Plumber and he has agreed to come over this week.
I will keep this thread updated.
Thanks,
6541.

Andrea B.

Looking forward to updates.

6541

The only update I have is that the original Plumber has disappeared.
I got talking to him two weeks ago and he assured me he would call to me the next day.
Now he is not answering my phone calls or texts ....
What do the good folk on here make of that ?
Looks like I am going to have to find another plumber.

zimmermania

Unless the stove has a boiler I don't know why you would be looking for a plumber.

GinSoaked

zimmermania wrote: »

Unless the stove has a boiler I don't know why you would be looking for a plumber.

I'd ask in the local builders merchants who they know that installs stoves or if there is anyone they recommend?

zimmermania

There has been enough talk about solving the problem so here is what you must do.

Rip out the stonework above the stove (its not very well built) and put it to one side,it looks a bit like leitrim stone.

Properly connect the stove to the flue making certain it is airtight.Re-build the stone and if for any reason you are short stone because it was not built back exactly as before,get your hands on a Leitrim stone or 2 ,there is plenty of it being thrown out as ppl change fireplaces.

The whole job should only take a few hours but with the stonework taken down all will be revealed and the remedy should be obvious.

TaSeThat

Any chance of an update to this as I have the same problem - stove has always smoked into the room when opening the door. Don't want to highjack the thread but if anyone can help as same problem. To highlight:

1. Moved in a few weeks ago and stove has always smoked into the room when door open.
2. Got chimney cleaned a couple of weeks ago - no fix
3. Have tried open vents, closing vents, open doors, etc but same problem
4. The glass on the doors has to be cleaned every day after lighting the stove as they are caked in smoke.
5 Even ordered smokeless Ovids from EasiGlow in case it was the fuel (previous owner left a bit of coal in the bunker) - same issue.

It's a Waterford Shamrock Stove - same as this one if that helps:

https://www.adverts.ie/stoves/waterford-stanley-shamrock-stove-back-boiler-model/7714219

Woodie.ie

Assuming that your chimney is clean and there are no broken flues then some chimneys do have a poor draught. Make sure your first fire is always bright with a good blaze to heat the flue quickly [more sticks or small logs] and help create a good draught. High trees close to the house can also cause problems. It might be necessary to put a camera up the chimney to check it out.

Andrea B.

Does the flue pipe exit horizontally at rear of stove?
If so, it should not then take a direct 90deg angle up after this.
It should be a curved bend or two 45deg bends.

TaSeThat

It goes out behind the stove and not from the top. Followed a couple of YouTube videos on how to start fires in a stove (yep I went that basic) and it lights fine but just smokes everytime/anytime I open the door to stoke or top it up.
Dr Google mentioned having a full fire going in order to burn the smoke but still no joy. Will have to get someone in to take a look at it as it's a pain to have the smoke alarm going off and having to open the front door whenever the stove door is opened to top up the fire.

cheers for the responses.

zimmermania

Light the stove in the usual way (you say it lights fine) before you open the door open a window in the room and you may find it does not smoke or with the window closed open the door of the lighted stove and as it smokes open the window and see if it no longer smokes.

This test will determine if the room is starved for air. If there are high trees or buildings causing a downdraft you may have to increase chimney height by inserting a pipe on top of chimney.

You should make sure the flu is not clogged at the back of the stove put you hand in or a large spoon and root around.

Let me know how you get on i have cured a number of smoke problems over the years and have my own installation method which has stood the test of time.

Where the 6 inch ( usually)pipe from the stove goes into the main flu it is vital that a flu reducer is used if the flu is an 8 inch flu (usual)

A metal flu reducer is available the bigger end is shoved into the existing flu until it is in tight,the narrow section of the reducer connects to metal pipecoming out or up from the stove.

It is vital that the pipe leaving the stove and connecting to the flu is airtight,if the 6 inch pipe from the stove is going into the 8 inch main flu is not made airtight it will smoke.

TaSeThat

Cheers Zimmermania - I'll try the exit/rear pipe with a wooden spoon to see if it hits anything/unblocks. I know when the guy was cleaning it he was saying it had great draft (you can hear the wind in the fireplace, even this evening with it not too windy). I did try the door open last night but smoke was still getting in the room. I also tried with the door and every window in the room open (the front door opens into the living room/kitchen which is where the stove is).

I'm trying to get the cousin up in the next few days as he deals in stoves and may spot something. I will try your suggestions though and thanks for the response.

chooseusername

Try opening the door gradually.
Slowly open it about an inch at first then wait a few seconds
before slowly opening it completely .