Strimmer with blade

mjp

Looking to pick up a second hand strimmer online but wondering can you add a brushcutter blade to any strimmer or is it certain types that can take the attachment.

peasant

AFAIK it's not recommended to use blades on strimmers that have a curved shaft.
So it's a straight shaft model you should look for.
Also if you're planning to do a lot of work, the types with bicycle handlebars are better than the ones with a loop handle

So, not this


but that:

SouthWesterly

Everyday is a school day.

Any ideas where to get a reasonable blade?
With a 1/4 acre of orchard to trim wire doesn't last long

peasant

Strimmer attachments are a bit like fishing lures in that they catch more anglers than fish

Take your strimmer to a local dealer/repair shop (you'll need them at some point for servicing anyway), tell them what you want to cut and go with their recommendation.

As a general rule, the better a blade is at cutting thick stuff (brambles and upwards) the worse it is for grass and vice versa. Unless you want to change blades every five minutes it will always be a bit of a compromise.

I would go for something that cuts and moves grass well and bring secateurs/ a handsaw for anything it doesn't.

mjp

peasant wrote: »

As a general rule, the better a blade is at cutting thick stuff (brambles and upwards) the worse it is for grass and vice versa. Unless you want to change blades every five minutes it will always be a bit of a compromise.

I would go for something that cuts and moves grass well and bring secateurs/ a handsaw for anything it doesn't.

That good to know and will take your advice on board and stick with cord for time being.

Bawnmore

I've a strimmer that I use with just the strimmer attachment, but have a brushcutter attachment. Is the brushcutter attachment better for the likes of briers etc?

johnb25

Bawnmore wrote: »

I've a strimmer that I use with just the strimmer attachment, but have a brushcutter attachment. Is the brushcutter attachment better for the likes of briers etc?

I have a Husqvarna strimmer/brush cutter like the handlebar model above. I find the blade great for grass. If you set the harness to the correct length it leaves a pretty even finish. I move it right to left, and the blade direction moves the grass into a row. I just use the string line for strimming lawn edge, kerbs etc.

Discodog

Stihl have a new cutter head

https://m.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Grass-Trimmers-Brushcutters-and-Clearing-Saws/Accessories-for-grass-trimmers-brushcutters-and-clearing-saws/Attachments-for-brushcutters/2104911-28031/RG-rotary-cutting-head.aspx

GinSoaked

Using a modern head (not the ones with the narrow eyelets) and good quality line can make a massive difference to how well a strimmer can cut.

There are two big problems with nylon line one is that it heats up and melts the other is really the same problem in that it breaks at the eyelets when it heats up.

Only recently I came across the more modern heads that have wide eyelets that spread the load on the line and Oregon Techni 280 degree strimmer line which has a higher melting point than normal line. The combination of the two has been an eyeopener for me as on long grass I don't get any more line breaks and even with the nylon line on brambles I get very few breaks to the extent that I don't bother with a blade unless I'm cutting through blackthorn suckers along with the brambles.

Examples of what I'm on about Oregon Techni 280 and Oregon 559059 Universal Professional Tap and Go Trimmer Head for 33 cc +

For those that want a tougher line there is always Oregon Flexiblade 111085E Serrated Heavy Duty Trimmer Line for Brambles and Undergrowth but that is usually used with an easy load head that takes individual lengths of line which I think makes it a little wasteful.

Personally for a metal blade I like to have something with in excess of 2hp but you can use a smaller blade on a less powerful strimmer.