Painting Doors and Skirting Question

Monkeynut

Hello. I'm going to paint a few doors in the house. They have white high gloss on them. They have yellowed over the years. I seen that in 2010 they brought out new gloss oil based paint because of eu regulations on toxins in the old recipe.
I have looked online and people are saying use water based paint as it does not go yellow as quick.



1. Wash down door, then give it a light sanding just to score it.
2. Use and adhesive primer.
3. Use a satinwood white paint.

Can you please advise on which adhesive and which satinwood to use?

I have picked these so far.

Adhesive paint:
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/leyland-trade-acrylic-primer-undercoat-2-5ltr/64719
or
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/zinsser-bulls-eye-1-2-3-primer-sealer-2-5ltr/10136?gclid=CjwKCAjwmf_4BRABEiwAGhDfSVpJIOOsNxPbaZyYvkDIX16TU7v1X9gHUfAyxsmf-ICBKFBBRcYaghoCgZAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Satinwood:
https://www.woodies.ie/fleetwood-1-litre-advanced-satinwood-1136330


Thanks

Lex Luthor

zinnser bin 123 I used to paint over all our varnished skirtings & architraves

then used 1 coat of undercoat and 2 satinwood

some say the undercoat is 1 too many, but on the skirtings I prefer an extra layer cos they get knocked

the undercoat was same colour as satinwood that I got both mixed up

I used fleetwood (french white)

Monkeynut

Thanks for the input. I'll be going for the zinnser bin 123 for the adhesive primer.

One other thing. I'll be doing the hall stairs and landing. But it looks as if somebody just paint a layer of peel-able paint on it, they must not of used the right paint or not got it ready before applying it. If i scratch it it peels off then you can see a layer of gloss under that. If i stayed there long even i say i could peeling the whole lot of it off. But that would take a very lone time. If i gave it a slight sand then use the zinnser bin 123 on it, would it be ok to go ahead with painting it then?

jack of all

Sounds like previous "painter" put gloss directly over the previous gloss- without cleaning, undercoating or rubbing down the previous surface to provide a key. Get one of those medium/ coarse sanding sponges and rub down (wet- use a bucket of water, mop up the mess as you go) the woodwork to remove as much of this coating as you can. You will have to try and cut back to the original (sound- well bonded) paint before repainting. Will take some elbow grease but painting over unsound paint is a waste of your labour and money.

ted1

I replaced our skirting with foil wrapped skirting. No painting required and real easy to keep clean

Frankx

I've a similar problem to above

I sanded and put acrylic primer and 1 coat of satinwood so far

You can scape it back to the varnish, not sure if ok to continue

Does it get more resilient with extra coats?

Klopp

Forget the primer, its overkill for indoors, two coats of the Satin will be more than enough on the doors and skirting boards.

Ceepo

Klopp wrote: »

Forget the primer, its overkill for indoors, two coats of the Satin will be more than enough on the doors and skirting boards.

Even on previously glossed timber...

Ceepo

Frankx wrote: »

I've a similar problem to above

I sanded and put acrylic primer and 1 coat of satinwood so far

You can scape it back to the varnish, not sure if ok to continue

Does it get more resilient with extra coats?

What type of acrylic primer did you use?