Solar PV Hints, Tips & Troubleshooting

graememk

candysapple wrote: »

We're awaiting our install which will include a HW diverter. Our existing standard copper cylinder (with lagging jacket) has a small leak and is corroded so we were changing it anyway.
Is there significant advantage in getting a solar cylinder or would any preinsulated cylinder do the same job?

A solar cylinder is for solar tubes, you dont need that, (its a 3rd coil at the bottom of the cylinder )

A big tank, with the immersion at the bottom or even dual immersions, (top and bottom) would be ideal for HW divert

Eg the top heats first, for immediate hw, then the bottom one heats the rest of the tank when the top is hot.

candysapple

graememk wrote: »

A solar cylinder is for solar tubes, you dont need that, (its a 3rd coil at the bottom of the cylinder )

A big tank, with the immersion at the bottom or even dual immersions, (top and bottom) would be ideal for HW divert

Eg the top heats first, for immediate hw, then the bottom one heats the rest of the tank when the top is hot.

Tanks! *pun intended

The dual immersion looks to be around 300. Now to find someone to install it at reasonable cost. Appreciate the help.
My knowledge of plumbing and electrics has come on leaps and bounds since we started discussing solar.

slave1

300 seems low, if you are doing this then can you fit a bigger tank, what size is the €300 cylinder because if it's small then no point with two immersions

slave1

If you're bored, don't decide to update the firmware on your Zappi2 during a sunny day, system down 2 hours now while it updates, Mr Grid v happy

Deagol

candysapple wrote: »

We're awaiting our install which will include a HW diverter. Our existing standard copper cylinder (with lagging jacket) has a small leak and is corroded so we were changing it anyway.
Is there significant advantage in getting a solar cylinder or would any preinsulated cylinder do the same job?

I’m wondering what kind of tank for that money. I paid 1800€ for a fitted Stainless Steel 300L dual coil dual immersion recently. It’s a great unit even if I think the insulation could be better!

Geeyfds53573

Deagol wrote: »

I’m wondering what kind of tank for that money. I paid 1800€ for a fitted Stainless Steel 300L dual coil dual immersion recently. It’s a great unit even if I think the insulation could be better!

I was quoted something similar put it in hold for now - any link to your tank Deagol? I wouldn’t mind seeing it as I was only offered same copper type.

candysapple

slave1 wrote: »

300 seems low, if you are doing this then can you fit a bigger tank, what size is the €300 cylinder because if it's small then no point with two immersions

€300 is just for the cylinder. We were quoted €570 for supply and install of a 36x15 indirect, insulated cylinder with a new immersion.

Deagol

Geeyfds53573 wrote: »

I was quoted something similar put it in hold for now - any link to your tank Deagol? I wouldn’t mind seeing it as I was only offered same copper type.

Not at home at the moment or the next few days so can’t check precise model. But it’s a Joule unit. I’ll get the model and post a pic end of the week.

Geeyfds53573

Deagol wrote: »

Not at home at the moment or the next few days so can’t check precise model. But it’s a Joule unit. I’ll get the model and post a pic end of the week.

Thanks appreciated I see the Joule ones that’s more like what I was thinking of.

slave1

Interested in 300L cylinder too with excellent heat retention too if any real world recommendations around...

garo

I got one of these a bit over two years ago https://www.plumbingproducts.ie/indirect-insulated-grade-2-ireland/2111-copper-cylinder-grade-2-insulated-36x18-1-coil.html
It holds the hesat reasonably well but if I had to do it again I would go for something here: https://www.plumbingproducts.ie/256-stainless-steel-cylinders-ireland
A HW cylinder will last a long time. Depending on your needs get a large one if you can.

Bobeagleburger

Quick question on hot water diverter.

The set up in our house currently is the water is heated via the oil boiler which is a non condensing one. It's an old indoor boiler, still in decent nick, but there's no option that I can see to switch off heating the water. I.e, use it for rads only and not water.

I'll have the option this week of adding an Eddi or Iboost to our system if I want.

Probably convenience more than anything.

Also, can you use Eddi to divert to tank, and then topup hot water with oil boiler?

Thanks

Sorry, the hot water diverter stuff is new to me.

graememk

6 wrote: »

Quick question on hot water diverter.

The set up in our house currently is the water is heated via the oil boiler which is a non condensing one. It's an old indoor boiler, still in decent nick, but there's no option that I can see to switch off heating the water. I.e, use it for rads only and not water.

I'll have the option this week of adding an Eddi or Iboost to our system if I want.

Probably convenience more than anything.

Also, can you use Eddi to divert to tank, and then topup hot water with oil boiler?

Thanks

Sorry, the hot water diverter stuff is new to me.

If it's any help, the hot water divert, is just a way to automate/regulate the immersion according to the solar excess. So it would work the same as if you turned on your immersion now.

DrPhilG

I had previously considered doubling my panel capacity, adding a second row to both my 2.8kWp (9 panels) and 3.4kWp (11 panels).

On checking out the garage there won't be sufficient space for the second row (not meeting the 50/20cm requirement). I'm not concerned about the grant as that's already done, or planning because nobody else does. But given that the logic behind those numbers is prevention of wind damage, I don't fancy going over it.

Also if I double my panels, I'd need a second inverter which adds to both the complexity and the cost.

So I have a question...



* Can I add 5 more panels to this garage, in landscape rather than portrait?
* That would bring me from 2.8 up to 4.3kWp on the south facing garage so would aid performance in the winter months, when the west facing panels are weaker.
* Would this be possible on the 1 string of the Solis 5kw hybrid? So 4.3 on one and 3.4 on the other. I believe that the Solis can take up to 50% over capacity so my new total of 7.7kWp wouldn't be far off that.

Finally, is it worth it? I can have them fitted including adjusting the current panels (I didn't listen to championc and start in the corner) for €200 a panel. Could go less if I DIY but what with the current labels needing to go up or down slightly, I'd probably just pay it.

championc

The number of panels per string can be completely different to each other.

The number of panels allowed per string is governed by the specs of the inverter and the panels. Find the max MPPT Input voltage for your inverter and divide it by the VOC of the panel.

You might get away with using the current bottom mounting rail as a combined middle rail for two rows, then bringing the current bottom row clamps down onto the bottom edge of the current row (clamping to the top edge of your new Landscape row).

While it might look nice symmetrically, don't be in too much of a hurry to add one to your bottom right corner because of shading. Are the current row fully shade free at this time of year now ?

DrPhilG

championc wrote: »

Are the current row fully shade free at this time of year now ?

Yeah I don't suffer too badly with shading. In the winter months I get a little shading from the chimney on the gable end of the house until about 10:30am IIRC.

Only for the few worst months of the year.

SD_DRACULA

I think voltage might be a limiting factor, and you might only be able to get a max of 13 of panels on each string (if going by specs)
Use http://design.soliscloud.com/ and select your inverter and panels on each string, that will calculate the safe limits for you.
Having said that I am using 12 panels on one string and 9 on another on a 6kw solis hybrid and the normal voltages I am seeing are 400 and 300 so if going by that, loads of room left until 600 on both.

slave1

Gonna mess with your head here so forgive me, don't you have those same panels on the house, could you remove all those garage panels and put them on the house and then work out the dimensions on the garage to populate with new panels that would fill up this S facing roof in landscape fashion.
Saying this as a S facing string should be maximised.

slave1

6 wrote: »

Quick question on hot water diverter.

The set up in our house currently is the water is heated via the oil boiler which is a non condensing one. It's an old indoor boiler, still in decent nick, but there's no option that I can see to switch off heating the water. I.e, use it for rads only and not water.

I'll have the option this week of adding an Eddi or Iboost to our system if I want.

Probably convenience more than anything.

Also, can you use Eddi to divert to tank, and then topup hot water with oil boiler?

Thanks

Sorry, the hot water diverter stuff is new to me.

When it comes to Eddi or iboost another consideration should be location of unit. The iBoost has a fan and the Eddi uses a large heatsink so is fanless.
Lots of immersion switches are in bedrooms so I'd go for the Eddi in this case and it makes no noise (apart from contacters which will be during excess PV daylight hours)

DrPhilG

slave1 wrote: »

Gonna mess with your head here so forgive me, don't you have those same panels on the house, could you remove all those garage panels and put them on the house and then work out the dimensions on the garage to populate with new panels that would fill up this S facing roof in landscape fashion.
Saying this as a S facing string should be maximised.

Shut it...

Lol, I get what you're saying but to be honest I don't think it would make a difference to the total number of panels. I might even get less.

Switching all to landscape I think I'd get 12, 2 rows of 6. Mixing landscape and portrait I'd get 14 with 9 and 5.

Not as easy on the eye, but I don't care anymore.

DrPhilG

SD_DRACULA wrote: »

Use http://design.soliscloud.com/ and select your inverter and panels on each string

Jeez, using that site on a mobile is giving me a headache lol.

Might just WhatsApp the installer!

Bobeagleburger

slave1 wrote: »

When it comes to Eddi or iboost another consideration should be location of unit. The iBoost has a fan and the Eddi uses a large heatsink so is fanless.
Lots of immersion switches are in bedrooms so I'd go for the Eddi in this case and it makes no noise (apart from contacters which will be during excess PV daylight hours)

Perfect, thanks for that info.

graememk

slave1 wrote: »

When it comes to Eddi or iboost another consideration should be location of unit. The iBoost has a fan and the Eddi uses a large heatsink so is fanless.
Lots of immersion switches are in bedrooms so I'd go for the Eddi in this case and it makes no noise (apart from contacters which will be during excess PV daylight hours)

Yep it's a noisy thing, it's not even a quiet fan!

MAULBROOK

DrPhilG wrote: »

Jeez, using that site on a mobile is giving me a headache lol.

Might just WhatsApp the installer!

I know is a big mess. Im going to stick with the old clearer app

Bobeagleburger

I had an install recently, and will be having smappee connected next week.

In the meantime is there any way I can pull some trending data from the Solis inverter or Eddi?

Thanks

MAULBROOK

6 wrote: »

I had an recently, and will be having smappee connected next week.

In the meantime is there any way I can pull some trending data from the sOLIS inverter or Eddi?

Thanks

https://m.ginlong.com/login.html

Bobeagleburger

MAULBROOK wrote: »

https://m.ginlong.com/login.html

Thanks.

When I try to add a device (device type: Logger)I'm getting this error.

'Invalid SN number'


I'm adding my Inverter number in there, am I wrong?

graememk

6 wrote: »

Thanks.

When I try to add a device (device type: Logger)I'm getting this error.

'Invalid SN number'


I'm adding my Inverter number in there, am I wrong?

its the serial number of the dongle not the inverter.

Bobeagleburger

graememk wrote: »

its the serial number of the dongle not the inverter.

Where is that located?

Newbie alert here

graememk

6 wrote: »

Where is that located?

Newbie alert here

should be plugged into the bottom of the inverter, grey thing with an aerial, there is a code on the side of it.

(that also needs to be connected to your wifi)