New to cycling - how do people deal with punctures?

Wishbone Ash

Aegir wrote: »

Am I the only one whose eyes are watering at the talk of 110/120 psi? I’d be worried the fillings will fall out of my teeth at that pressure. I pump my 28mm tyres to 80 psi and it works fine.....

You're not comparing like with like. 28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - 23mm tyres usually need higher pressure to prevent pinch flats.

Wishbone Ash

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

You're not comparing like with like. 28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - 23mm tyres usually need higher pressure to prevent pinch flats.

Which is why I swapped my 23mm tyres for 28s

It’s an important point though, especially as it seems new bikes rarely have 23mm tyres now.

Effects

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

28mm tyres are designed to run at 80psi - .

I pump my 28s up to 90psi. More so out of habit as that's how I ran my 25s.

D13exile

Tyre pressure is also dependent on the cyclist's weight. While I've lost 10kgs this year, I'm still heavier (88kgs) than most cyclists and so I keep my tyres at 100psi on the front and 110psi on the rear. Any less than that and I think I'd be risking a pinch flat.

growleaves

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

....and under no circumstances should the bike be placed upside down during these procedures.

Why, because it might damage the bicycle?

07Lapierre

growleaves wrote: »

Why, because it might damage the bicycle?

See post #41 and for counter argument post #42

ED E

Aegir wrote: »

Am I the only one whose eyes are watering at the talk of 110/120 psi? I’d be worried the fillings will fall out of my teeth at that pressure. I pump my 28mm tyres to 80 psi and it works fine.

I quite often fix the puncture at the side of the road as well, if it isn’t too bad. If you can locate the puncture easily, you can do it without taking the wheel off.

But then, I roll my arm warmers down to my wrists at times as well.

Larger tyre, lower pressure. If you inflate 36mms you'll probably only get 60 but that'd be enough.

The cartridges were never designed for this purpose but it's a handy quirk that they have pretty much the perfect liquid volume.

I'm 88KG at the moment and pump to about 105PSI on 25mm armoured tyres. C02 will seep out quick enough so they won't be over pressure for long.

ED E

07Lapierre wrote: »

The inflators has a valve, so once you pull it off the valve, it will close the valve. So to inflate the tube a small amount, push the inflator onto the valve and remove it almost immediately. Then once you install the tube and tyre, push the inflator onto the valve and hold it there until the tyre is hard.

BBB also do an inflator that has a regulator valve. Once you attaché the valve, you turn the knob and you can control the flow of air into the tube.

Don't use push ons. People F up this operation all the time and loose 30% to atmosphere. Screw ons are 100x better. Be aware of frozen inner valves.

magicbastarder

i pump to 80psi, am about 75kg. 25mm tyres.

07Lapierre

ED E wrote: »

Don't use push ons. People F up this operation all the time and loose 30% to atmosphere. Screw ons are 100x better. Be aware of frozen inner valves.

Don't i know it!...That's why i always carry a mini pump!

Thelonious Monk

I've never used a road bike but are their tyres more likely to puncture than commuter type bikes? I've done 1000s of kms on my hybrid type thing and never had a puncture on schwalbe tyres.

D13exile

Thelonious Monk wrote: »

I've never used a road bike but are their tyres more likely to puncture than commuter type bikes? I've done 1000s of kms on my hybrid type thing and never had a puncture on schwalbe tyres.

And by Murphy's law No.1, you are now duty bound to puncture the next time you venture forth!!!:D

Idleater

D13exile wrote: »

And by Murphy's law No.1, you are now duty bound to puncture the next time you venture forth!!!:D

I was going to reply to that post with "now you've done it"

Does the old adage of "punctures come in threes" still apply these days?

brownian

07Lapierre wrote: »

See post #41 and for counter argument post #42

I did get a plausible answer elsewhere. There was a generation of shifters ('brifters', as was) where a cable came out the top of the shifter, in a graceful arc. Something like an Ibex horn. Naturally, setting your bike down on this would do damage.

Since then, it's basically an affectation, unless there is risk of saddle or bars getting scuffed (so, turn your bike upside down on grasss, or carpet, or take your jersey and shorts off, and use them to protect the bike...).

Wishbone Ash

brownian wrote: »

.... it's basically an affectation, unless there is risk of saddle or bars getting scuffed (so, turn your bike upside down on grasss, or carpet, or take your jersey and shorts off, and use them to protect the bike...).

I wouldn't describe it as an affectation if, like me, you just find it much simpler to remove a wheel with the bike the right way up. Why go to the bother of trying to protect saddle and hoods when there's no need for them to be in contact with the ground in the first place?

Idleater

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I wouldn't describe it as an affectation if, like me, you just find it much simpler to remove a wheel with the bike the right way up.

I've no issue with the wheel removal, it's the fixing of the puncture at the side of the road that is awkward holding the bike aloft and upright.

KevRossi

I just have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on all my bikes. Two punctures in 14 years of using them and over 60,000 Km.

Weepsie

Only puncture I got with my marathons was a massive shard of glass. I do partially blame them for a fractured elbow though

07Lapierre

Idleater wrote: »

I've no issue with the wheel removal, it's the fixing of the puncture at the side of the road that is awkward holding the bike aloft and upright.

Just replace the tube? Fix the puncture when you get home.

wheelo01

Weepsie wrote: »

Only puncture I got with my marathons was a massive shard of glass. I do partially blame them for a fractured elbow though

KevRossi wrote: »

I just have Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on all my bikes. Two punctures in 14 years of using them and over 60,000 Km.

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

Wishbone Ash

wheelo01 wrote: »

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

The Marathon Plus are heavy and don't roll as well as 'normal' tyres in my experience. Ideal for commuting but not so sure about long rides. You need good clearance for them the narrowest 700x25 is more like a 700x32 in actual width.

Their grip isn't the best but I'd rate it higher than Gators which I always found very skittish.

Weepsie

Yeah, they're a bit dead to ride on to be honest. I've done long rides on them, but felt like I was doing a bit more work than I liked.

A near perfect commuting tyre though , it's why they're used in Dublin bikes and such

Idleater

07Lapierre wrote: »

Just replace the tube? Fix the puncture when you get home.

But the bike has to be placed somewhere while replacing the tube. Not upside down apparently. I've seen suggestions of having someone else hold it, and hang it from a branch.

07Lapierre

Idleater wrote: »

But the bike has to be placed somewhere while replacing the tube. Not upside down apparently. I've seen suggestions of having someone else hold it, and hang it from a branch.

And? I lean the bike agains a wall, against a hedge, a tree, there's always someone or something to hold/lean the bike against.once you place the bike down carefully, you won't damage it. The front tyre, the (already dirty) chain are the only parts of the bike that touch the ground.

Idleater

Grand, so it's chain and derailleur on the ground vs saddle and bar tape. I'm assuming gentle placement and handling in both cases.

07Lapierre

Idleater wrote: »

Grand, so it's chain and derailleur on the ground vs saddle and bar tape. I'm assuming gentle placement and handling in both cases.

Nope..chain and tyre.

crosstownk

Over 35 years ago, when I was I young lad, I couldn't afford fancy things like work stands so I always worked on my bikes by turning them upside down. So much so that using a work stand nowadays can be sometimes confusing because everything is the wrong way round.

I still turn my bikes upside down to work on them. None of my bikes have any damage or scratches on hoods, saddle or anywhere else from being turned upside down. But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands.

Do whatever is most comfortable and easiest for you - just be careful. There's no right or wrong way 'rule'.

KevRossi

wheelo01 wrote: »

Are these good only for commuting, or for decent length weekend spins (3/4 hours)?
The tyread looks like it's quite the winter tyre, with plenty of grip, but is it an all rounder?
People talk about rolling resistance, and things like that, but that confuses more than clears up the issue for me.

I have always just gone for gator skin hard shell, but several people around here have serious doubts about their handling, and they're starting to get into my head and making me over-cautious with no actual evidence from my cycling.

Thanks.

I have them on my commuting/touring bike which is a Cube One Hybrid E-bike. Excellent tyre all round, puncture and pinch proof and they seem to add a bit more to the suspension in the potholes. They are 700x47C and are excellent in the wet. No puncture or accident yet.

I also have the 700x25's on the road bike. They need a bot more effort than other tyres but I'm happy for that trade off against no punctures and more grip. I'm not a fast cyclist anyway and I go out at the weekend for exercise and enjoyment. If you're looking to beat Strava times then get something else, though the Schwalbe would probably be better for training.

07Lapierre

crosstownk wrote: »

But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands.

Do whatever is most comfortable and easiest for you - just be careful. There's no right or wrong way 'rule'.

Agree...I hate those workstands that clamp the seatpost.

I use one of these: https://www.mantel.com/ie/feedback-sprint-work-stand

(Not this exact one)

Wishbone Ash

crosstownk wrote: »

...But I do have scratches on seat posts from using work stands....

Schoolboy error there crosstownk! Would you not wrap something around the seatpost before clamping it? I use a section of old tube.

Your post conjors up images of my youth trying to fix bikes without the proper tools (money was scarce) or sneaking stuff from the saddle bag of my oul lad's bike and praying he wouldn't have a puncture going to work before I got the chance to replace it.