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Switch requirements for kitchen?

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  • 23-10-2020 11:35am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 7,457 ✭✭✭


    In a new kitchen, am I right I now need separate switches in the backsplash for the cooker, extractor hood, dishwasher and fridge?

    Is it possible to get all four switches in one 146x86 wall plate? I get charged for each cutout in the backsplash.

    And also, I've read that any sockets need to be 300mm from the sink. Is that 300mm horizontally along the wall or diagonally?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 617 ✭✭✭LenWoods


    Blisterman wrote: »
    In a new kitchen, am I right I now need separate switches in the backsplash for the cooker, extractor hood, dishwasher and fridge?

    Is it possible to get all four switches in one 146x86 wall plate? I get charged for each cutout in the backsplash.

    And also, I've read that any sockets need to be 300mm from the sink. Is that 300mm horizontally along the wall or diagonally?

    Hi, you can get a 2, 3 and 5 switch on a single Din wall plate from a brand called clipsal manufactured by Schneider electric
    Available many places including electricalwholesaler.ie

    There's also a higher rated cooker switch and light which you could also have in the 2, 3, or 5 port

    pmQkNRssj

    I have clipsal classic fitted throughout my house
    I'll edit with some pictures now:

    The plate seperates from the switchs allowing for different combinations, the design has been available since the mid 90's in a range of colours, most common now are white or black; they feel like a beach stone with caps for the screws; no loud click neither nice and subtle click sounds.

    Here's an example I've three switches here outside of the plate:

    poMGD52jj

    Here's how the sockets look too:
    HDMI inserts are also available to replace a switch also F-type satellite and RJ45 inserts

    pnopyC4Sj

    poBRvWHIj

    pmAnUE2qj

    Six port is also available however it is a double din where up to five is available on a single; I've used a six in my attic for distributing satellite putting in F-type inserts instead of switches.

    porugpXOj

    pmmsmaEbj

    pmvk3GMRj


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,911 ✭✭✭Chuck Noland


    If you had a few twin and earths in it I’d say you’d want a deep metal box. I probably wouldn’t bring the cooker cable in aswell then


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭keithdub


    I would have a separate cooker. And I think its 1 meter from the sink but your electrician will know the regs there. The switch has to be within 2 meters of the appliance as far as I can remember


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    Blisterman wrote: »
    In a new kitchen, am I right I now need separate switches in the backsplash for the cooker, extractor hood, dishwasher and fridge?

    Is it possible to get all four switches in one 146x86 wall plate? I get charged for each cutout in the backsplash.

    And also, I've read that any sockets need to be 300mm from the sink. Is that 300mm horizontally along the wall or diagonally?

    Any appliance that is integrated and socket not accessible needs an isolator

    As others have said,I wouldn’t try to fit all those connections into one box fridge/freezer and dishwasher should be on different circuits So getting 2 feeds and 3 loads will be tricky

    Definitely put the cooker circuit on its own

    There’s no minimum distance atm that the socket should be from the sink

    The dishwasher socket is permitted in the press under the sink once it’s readily accessible

    I have seen on a boards thread where the kitchen company inserted a panel inside a base unit that Contained all the isolators


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat




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