Building up your own bike

07Lapierre

Anyone built up thier own bike recently?

I've bought carbon frame and fork and I'm fitting a Campagnolo Chorus mechanical groupset. I'm fitting an integrated handlebar and stem and the frame manufacturers (ribble) have advised me that they fit a full length outer cable housing from the shifters, all the way to the front and rear derailleurs.

I'm concerned that the extra friction caused by the tight bends in the bars,stem and through the frame, combined with the full length outer casing, will result in poor shifting.

Anyone any tips/ recommendations? (And no, upgrading to Di2 or EPS is not an option! )

Daroxtar

I've a frame ordered and picked up a Dura Ace 9000 groupset over the past few months off eBay and Adverts. Frame should be here around the start of December so I'll be paying close attention to this thread

TheBlaaMan

07Lapierre wrote: »

Anyone built up thier own bike recently?

I've bought carbon frame and fork and I'm fitting a Campagnolo Chorus mechanical groupset. I'm fitting an integrated handlebar and stem and the frame manufacturers (ribble) have advised me that they fit a full length outer cable housing from the shifters, all the way to the front and rear derailleurs.

I'm concerned that the extra friction caused by the tight bends in the bars,stem and through the frame, combined with the full length outer casing, will result in poor shifting.

Anyone any tips/ recommendations? (And no, upgrading to Di2 or EPS is not an option! )

To me, that sound odd. What frame is it? Might it be only brake cables that are routing internally and use full outers from shifter to caliper? I cant see how gear cables route through the BB are (at least !) while sheathed in outers???

fat bloke

What's the bar and stem?

Idleater

I've rebuilt a MTB recently with full length outers for all cables (well rear derailleur). I've also recabled my winter road bikes with full length gore which are full length inner of the outers if you get me.

Never had issues with gearing changes.

07Lapierre

It's a Ribble Endurance SL and yes, it's the shifter cables, as the front Brake cable is the one cable that is not routed internally. A full length out cable housing on a rear brake is not unusual as I've Seen that before. It's not a problem with the brakes, as the distance from the shifter to the rear calipers is not very long and it's relatively straight.

I've checked the frame and their is room for the outer cables under the BB. To be honest, it's the routing of the cables through the stem and around the steerer tube and into the down tube that I reckon will be where Problem will be.

Deano12345

Idleater wrote: »

I've rebuilt a MTB recently with full length outers for all cables (well rear derailleur). I've also recabled my winter road bikes with full length gore which are full length inner of the outers if you get me.

Never had issues with gearing changes.

I’ve done similar! Running through aero bars as well that would have a fairly tight ID, doesn’t seem to noticeably affect changes.

07Lapierre

fat bloke wrote: »

What's the bar and stem?

Probably go for Ribble Level 5

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/level-5-carbon-integrated-road-bar-and-stem/

07Lapierre

Deano12345 wrote: »

I've also recabled my winter road bikes with full length gore which are full length inner of the outers if you get me.

Never had issues with gearing changes.

The inner of the outer? Did you remove the plastic outer "housing" to make the outer casing thinner?

nilhg

07Lapierre wrote: »

It's a Ribble Endurance SL and yes, it's the shifter cables, as the front Brake cable is the one cable that is not routed internally. A full length out cable housing on a rear brake is not unusual as I've Seen that before. It's not a problem with the brakes, as the distance from the shifter to the rear calipers is not very long and it's relatively straight.

I've checked the frame and their is room for the outer cables under the BB. To be honest, it's the routing of the cables through the stem and around the steerer tube and into the down tube that I reckon will be where Problem will be.

You're going to have to do that whether you run full length or not?

TBH I'd be more worried about the extra compression in a full length run causing issues, a good quality "compressionless" cableset should help to minimise this?

Idleater

07Lapierre wrote: »

The inner of the outer? Did you remove the plastic outer "housing" to make the outer casing thinner?

It's a set, the inner is basically a long tube around the cable and the outer accommodates it starting and stopping at the frame points.
Eg: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sram-Ride-Professional-Cable-System/dp/B00JQLJ3R0

On my race bike (before going to etap) this was specifically used to direct the rear derailleur cable through a z like twist in the chain stays. I can't say it was faultless, but it did get the cable through without frame stops where raw cable wouldn't work. A solution looking for a problem on that frame but it did keep the cable dry and clean for years.

That's why I put it on the winter bike.

07Lapierre

nilhg wrote: »

You're going to have to do that whether you run full length or not?

TBH I'd be more worried about the extra compression in a full length run causing issues, a good quality "compressionless" cableset should help to minimise this?

No. I can route the cable around the steerer tube (on the outside) and the cable enters the frame via an entry point on the down tube. That's where the outer cable ends and the bare wire runs from there, through the frame and come out at the end of the chai stay at the rear derailleur.

Good point about the compression though.

hesker

Check out a YouTube channel called Oz Cycle. He shows how to do exactly what you’re doing.

In my opinion if you’re buying integrated bars you’d be mad not to route internally all the way

07Lapierre

hesker wrote: »

Check out a YouTube channel called Oz Cycle. He shows how to do exactly what you’re doing.

In my opinion if you’re buying integrated bars you’d be mad not to route internally all the way

Thanks for that. I’ll watch it this evening. Totally agree that not touting the cables internally would be mad given the cost of the bars.. bike would look so much better too!

at1withmyself

I'd highly recommend the Jagwire Elite cables, they have great compression and alot more flexible housing. They are expensive but add a nice bit of bling while also be very functional.

07Lapierre

Watched “Oz Cycle” on YouTube last night. He certainly makes it look pretty straight forward and he’s very thorough! Another consideration is preventing the cables rattling inside the frame. Oz has a video on that too, so that’s next on my list.

hesker

Only found him this week when I was taking the bearings out of my freehub.

His videos are well done by and large and I like his home brew tools.

Wasn’t too sure about that big rubber seal he put in to keep his headset bearings dry but he’s probably a guy who favours functionality over looks.

07Lapierre

hesker wrote: »

Only found him this week when I was taking the bearings out of my freehub.

His videos are well done by and large and I like his home brew tools.

Wasn’t too sure about that big rubber seal he put in to keep his headset bearings dry but he’s probably a guy who favours functionality over looks.

Agree! Although seeing what a faff removing the bars and stem ,after internal cables have been fitted, I understand why he'd want to ensure that he wouldn't have to do it again for a long time.

Had a closer look at my own frame and access for routing the cables is very good. I now think preventing the cables rattling around inside the frame is going to be a bigger issue. I'm thinking I'll buy some pipe insulation foam and use it to line the down tube and the chainstay. Something like this should do the trick.. https://www.diy.com/departments/polyethylene-foam-pipe-lagging-l-1m-dia-15mm/1906884_BQ.prd

07Lapierre

nilhg wrote: »

You're going to have to do that whether you run full length or not?

TBH I'd be more worried about the extra compression in a full length run causing issues, a good quality "compressionless" cableset should help to minimise this?

So I finally have my bike built up .... well all built except for the chainset (which is due to arrive down the Chimney on Dec. 25th! )

I was quite surprised how fluid the cables move within the full cable housing. I used Jagwire "Pro shift" cables and i went with Deda Vinci Integrated bars and stem. The Shifting is really smooth! It'll be interesting to see how long it stays like that.

I have one issue which is that i think the RD cable is too short and once the chainset is fitted, it may not shift onto the large sprocket, while the chain is on the large chainring. If that's the case, then i'll have to remove the bars/stem and all 3 cables! Its a lot of hassle for what i reckon could be 2 or 3mm of cable length! I'll let you know how i get on.


https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=536842&stc=1&d=1608571130

hesker

07Lapierre wrote: »

So I finally have my bike built up .... well all built except for the chainset (which is due to arrive down the Chimney on Dec. 25th! )

I was quite surprised how fluid the cables move within the full cable housing. I used Jagwire "Pro shift" cables and i went with Deda Vinci Integrated bars and stem. The Shifting is really smooth! It'll be interesting to see how long it stays like that.

I have one issue which is that i think the RD cable is too short and once the chainset is fitted, it may not shift onto the large sprocket, while the chain is on the large chainring. If that's the case, then i'll have to remove the bars/stem and all 3 cables! Its a lot of hassle for what i reckon could be 2 or 3mm of cable length! I'll let you know how i get on.


https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=536842&stc=1&d=1608571130

Large/large is a combo you shouldn’t be using anyway but I think you have plenty of length there.

You can test it by pushing the rd around with your hand.

07Lapierre

Agree..Large/large is not advisable, but is possible, so best to allow for it IMO.
Anyway, it's been bugging me all weekend,so I bought a new full length outer cable and spent a few hours this evening removing the bar/stem assembly, fitting the new, longer RD cable and a neater brake cable too.

Geez you really need to get everything right first time. By everything I mean cable layout in the stem, so they flow easily around the steerer tube and into the frame. Get it wrong and it all has to come apart again in order to rearrange them!

Deano12345

07Lapierre wrote: »

Agree..Large/large is not advisable, but is possible, so best to allow for it IMO.
Anyway, it's been bugging me all weekend,so I bought a new full length outer cable and spent a few hours this evening removing the bar/stem assembly, fitting the new, longer RD cable and a neater brake cable too.

Geez you really need to get everything right first time. By everything I mean cable layout in the stem, so they flow easily around the steerer tube and into the frame. Get it wrong and it all has to come apart again in order to rearrange them!

Best thing I ever bought for internally cabled bikes was some cable sleeving. Basically undo the cable at one end, feed this through over the existing cable, tape it in place and then pull the original cable out. Replace the cable, and feed it back through.

Took cabling my time trial bike from an a player heartbreak to a 10 min job at most.

YNK Pack of 3 Meters, Protective Sleeve Slick Tube Liner Cable Suitable for Bike Gear or Brake Inner Cable or internal routing https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z4WQY7D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_sYA4Fb3XDJD8C

07Lapierre

Front end (or "Cockpit" if your a GCN fan) looking a bit neater and now have plenty of excess cable at the rear derailleur. I'll trim it once i have it up and running.

07Lapierre

Deano12345 wrote: »

Best thing I ever bought for internally cabled bikes was some cable sleeving. Basically undo the cable at one end, feed this through over the existing cable, tape it in place and then pull the original cable out. Replace the cable, and feed it back through.

Took cabling my time trial bike from an a player heartbreak to a 10 min job at most.

YNK Pack of 3 Meters, Protective Sleeve Slick Tube Liner Cable Suitable for Bike Gear or Brake Inner Cable or internal routing https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07Z4WQY7D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_sYA4Fb3XDJD8C

To be honest, feeding the cables through the frame was dead easy. the access at the BB and at the rear derailleur is pretty good and I just fed the external cable by hand and it found its way to the access points each time. Once installed, i used Jagwire cable damper to insulate the cables from the frame to prevent rattles.

MojoMaker

Looking rather good indeed

07Lapierre

All done. Not sure about the white bar tape, but it matches the saddle! Besides...it won't be white for long. Really enjoyed building this bike. It's definitely not a cheaper option and having the correct tools and a descent workstand definitely helps.

Exapmple: I already had an internal cable routing kit, a workstand, BB removal tool and a steerer tube clamp for guiding the saw blade.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dt6gpo61ioy5y0z/08D77B47-3A04-425B-869D-3A0E5631DDDF.JPG?dl=0

Deano12345

07Lapierre wrote: »

All done. Not sure about the white bar tape, but it matches the saddle! Besides...it won't be white for long. Really enjoyed building this bike. It's definitely not a cheaper option and having the correct tools and a descent workstand definitely helps.

Exapmple: I already had an internal cable routing kit, a workstand, BB removal tool and a steerer tube clamp for guiding the saw blade.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dt6gpo61ioy5y0z/08D77B47-3A04-425B-869D-3A0E5631DDDF.JPG?dl=0

Looks lovely!

You’re a braver man than me with white bar tape (says the guy with a white bike!) it does look great when it’s new though

fat bloke

07Lapierre wrote: »

It's definitely not a cheaper option

Amen to that. But that's a great result. It's a nice looking frame.

07Lapierre

Deano12345 wrote: »

Looks lovely!

You’re a braver man than me with white bar tape (says the guy with a white bike!) it does look great when it’s new though

Thanks, it's looking a bit grubby already! But at least bar tape can be cleaned and I heard CIF is good for bringing white tape back to life.

coastwatch

07Lapierre wrote: »

Thanks, it's looking a bit grubby already! But at least bar tape can be cleaned and I heard CIF is good for bringing white tape back to life.

I think it helps to have a pair of gloves (new) to be used for the "white bar tape" bike only.

MojoMaker

That looks lovely - well done