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Moving a small shed

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  • 04-11-2020 6:15pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭


    I've a small garden shed (similar to this) that I need to move from one area of the garden to the other. Has anyone any experience with this kind of thing? Should I disassemble and move, move using pipes as rollers or would it be possible to lift and carry it with a few people? It's a straight run from where it is to where I need it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,684 ✭✭✭✭Samuel T. Cogley


    Dragged mine, didn't do it much good but it got moved.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,239 ✭✭✭rje66


    Done this a good few times. I've always used rollers. You need lots of boards for the rollers to roll on, set up like a train track. I use old metal bars, works best when it's the width of shed or little wider. But have used fencing posts successfully aswell. U need a min of 4 rollers. U will also need a long board as a leaver and a block for this lever. This helps to set up your track n rollers under the shed. If its tight to walls its a bit harder. Have new base ready and level b4 uou start moving. I've done this with just 2 ppl. To carry, you will need 6 ppl.


  • Registered Users Posts: 690 ✭✭✭Lockheed


    xckjoo wrote: »
    I've a small garden shed (similar to this) that I need to move from one area of the garden to the other. Has anyone any experience with this kind of thing? Should I disassemble and move, move using pipes as rollers or would it be possible to lift and carry it with a few people? It's a straight run from where it is to where I need it.

    Movers are generally pretty experienced with this sort of thing. They took ours apart completely and rebuilt it in our new house within a few hours, not even a half day of work for them, and this included the drive to a different town. 2 lads did it. Well worth it cos it wont damage the shed like dragging it might, no use having a shed that you'll need to replace then even if its in the place you want.


  • Registered Users Posts: 157 ✭✭Ak84


    I moved same size shed in uneven garden.
    Screwed steel conduit to underside at one end and was lucky enough to have a couple of old golf cart wheels to attach to steel. Wide wheels is what is needed so they don't sink.
    Lifted on my own. Obviously empty.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,387 ✭✭✭xckjoo


    rje66 wrote: »
    Done this a good few times. I've always used rollers. You need lots of boards for the rollers to roll on, set up like a train track. I use old metal bars, works best when it's the width of shed or little wider. But have used fencing posts successfully aswell. U need a min of 4 rollers. U will also need a long board as a leaver and a block for this lever. This helps to set up your track n rollers under the shed. If its tight to walls its a bit harder. Have new base ready and level b4 uou start moving. I've done this with just 2 ppl. To carry, you will need 6 ppl.


    This seems to be the most recommended approach but don't have anything lying around to use as rollers :D. I might get some uPVC piping and cut it into rollers.

    I'll empty the shed at the weekend and see how it's feeling. Still in two minds if it might be easier to just get 4-5 friends over and carry it


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,684 ✭✭✭✭Jim_Hodge


    xckjoo wrote: »
    This seems to be the most recommended approach but don't have anything lying around to use as rollers :D. I might get some uPVC piping and cut it into rollers.

    I'll empty the shed at the weekend and see how it's feeling. Still in two minds if it might be easier to just get 4-5 friends over and carry it
    I helped a friend move one a few years ago. He got 6 of us together. We just hoisted it up and carried it to it's new location with absolutely no bother.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,119 ✭✭✭homer911


    Moved mine with 3 fence posts as rollers, at least 2 under it at any one time, alternate sides. The framing under the floor runs front to back and when its on the rollers you can swivel it a little

    (Emptied it first and made sure the door was bolted so it wouldnt twist)


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