Leaking Pump Valve

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

Possibly sludge if this zone is on the ground floor and if you drained the system down originally, still you might have expected some flow somewhere, it still has all the hall marks of some shut valve or other but I think you have done all you can, good luck tomorrow.

It's on the house zone which is the second floor. The ground floor is 1 inch and works fine.

I've checked all the valves, can the motorised valve turn manually when you remove the head and not actually rotate in the body of the valve? It's seems to turn freely without the head

John.G

I wouldn't have expected the worst sludge up at that level.

When you remove the head I think the valve is only a 1/4 turn one, there may be two flats on it which I assume should align with the pipe when open, it might also come to a stop at either end of its 90 deg travel.

If the hot water cylinder also at that level then no heating either. only other thing I can think of is that the water from the F&E tank isnt giving the static head required for the second floor due to some blockage in the cold feed.

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

I wouldn't have expected the worst sludge up at that level.

When you remove the head I think the valve is only a 1/4 turn one, there may be two flats on it which I assume should align with the pipe when open, it might also come to a stop at either end of its 90 deg travel.

Yeah that's it, it's spins 360 degrees and inline with body is open and the motor is open and closing it ok. Just wondering why the heating isn't getting past there

John.G

What about the HW cylinder??

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

What about the HW cylinder??

Sorry missed this, hot water cylinder is on the same zone as the house that's not heating,

I can check the outlet for a blockage but it did fill up the rads fine.

John.G

The Adey mag filter is fitted to this zone??, make very sure that both isol valves on this are opened.

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

The Adey mag filter is fitted to this zone??, make very sure that both isol valves on this are opened.

Yeah that's open and water is coming out of the bleed nipple top of it.

Could the body of the motorised valve be blocked or faulty? I forgot to check it check was it open and clear.

John.G

The mot. valve is on the return?. so shut it, shut the filter outlet valve, open the vent and it should die down after a few minutes, reopen the mot. valve and water should flow out the vent?.

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

The mot. valve is on the return?. so shut it, shut the filter outlet valve, open the vent and it should die down after a few minutes, reopen the mot. valve and water should flow out the vent?.

Well the heating engineer came out, turns out it was a massive air lock on the return pipe of the zone.

He isolated the magnaclean and removed the lid and opened the return side and some water came then huge amount of air. All of the sudden the heat was flowing to the zone.

Thanks for all the help, I couldn't believe that's how he resolved it, such an easy fix in hindsight.

John.G

Glad you are sorted out, what settings did he leave the main circ and the Alph 1 pumps on?.

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

Glad you are sorted out, what settings did he leave the main circ and the Alph 1 pumps on?.

Let me check in the morning and get back to you. How do the speeds work?

I bought a MagnaCleanse over a year ago and plan to use it on the system.

https://www.adey.com/category/magnacleanse

I've also got a 1 inch Magnaclean 2 XP to on the return leg from the large zone as well as the Spirovent to go on the flow.

https://www.adey.com/product/magnaclean-professional2xp

https://www.spirotech.com/products/spirovent/spirovent--brass--hor--hightp-155/

Hopefully if I get all the sludge out, the heating will perform much better.

Do you think this will help much?

John.G

Yes, these measures should certainly help, the mag filters are very important with these energy efficient pumps as the magnetite can stop them working which is probably what happened to your DAB, if there were still a few lights on it when it failed it would be well worth carefully removing the head (4 studs?) and clean off the rotor and impeller, I have seen a few restored to life this way.
It's going to be a real challenge though re air ingress with two pumps on each zone, you might consider a sealed system as long as the pipework is in good condition, which will get rid of those problems.

I have attached a file which may answer some of your pump speed queries, if any more, please ask.

heffo500

John.G wrote: »

Yes, these measures should certainly help, the mag filters are very important with these energy efficient pumps as the magnetite can stop them working which is probably what happened to your DAB, if there were still a few lights on it when it failed it would be well worth carefully removing the head (4 studs?) and clean off the rotor and impeller, I have seen a few restored to life this way.
It's going to be a real challenge though re air ingress with two pumps on each zone, you might consider a sealed system as long as the pipework is in good condition, which will get rid of those problems.

I have attached a file which may answer some of your pump speed queries, if any more, please ask.

Thanks John, I'll try clean the pump up. Only problem is we have a grant bank boiler so that would mean getting rid if going for the sealed system?

John.G

Oh yes, forget it.