Disconnecting bath -how much water?

Treseemme.

Hi
I'm taking out the bath and blanking off the hot and cold just under the bath

The system I have is an open-vented? system with a tank and cylinder

How much water would there be when I cut the hot and cold or is there a way to minimize it? Thanks

mickuhaha

Treseemme. wrote: »

Hi
I'm taking out the bath and blanking off the hot and cold just under the bath

The system I have is an open-vented? system with a tank and cylinder

How much water would there be when I cut the hot and cold or is there a way to minimize it? Thanks

Turn on the tap for about a minute and a half and that's your answer. You might be able to do it faster if you have done this before. What you need to do is turn of the water or your going to destroy the place. You should have access to your outside water main if you don't have one inside and drain down the system.

Treseemme.

mickuhaha wrote: »

Turn on the tap for about a minute and a half and that's your answer. You might be able to do it faster if you have done this before. What you need to do is turn of the water or your going to destroy the place. You should have access to your outside water main if you don't have one inside and drain down the system.

I'll be turning off the hot and cold obviously in the hot press

So do I need to drain down the system as well, that means switching off the main and draining at the bottom of the copper cylinder or somewhere else?

I didn't think there'd be that much water with the valves off?

wexandproud

had to take the bath out lately due to a leak . normally no need to go near outside stopcock . there should be two valves in hotpress . one for cold water from heather tank in attick the other from cylinder . close the two valves and turn on the two taps . Will take less than a minute for water too drain from pipes .MIGHT be a cup full left when you let go the pipes from the tap

mickuhaha

Treseemme. wrote: »

I'll be turning off the hot and cold obviously in the hot press

So do I need to drain down the system as well, that means switching off the main and draining at the bottom of the copper cylinder or somewhere else?

I didn't think there'd be that much water with the valves off?

Good to hear.

Turn off the valves and then turn on the taps your going to be working on. If you have turned off both you won't get much water but if you don't have a valve after the tank you will have to drain the tank probably 200l or so

Treseemme.

wexandproud wrote: »

had to take the bath out lately due to a leak . normally no need to go near outside stopcock . there should be two valves in hotpress . one for cold water from heather tank in attick the other from cylinder . close the two valves and turn on the two taps . Will take less than a minute for water too drain from pipes .

Thanks that was my plan

I'll have to cut the pipes before they turn up so I'm wondering how much water will be there with the valves off

I don't want it spraying for five minutes

wexandproud

there will only be a small drop . just whatever is in the piece of pipe you cut off and a maybe a tiny drop [ a trickle] in the the tap itself . The water in the pipe will be up to where you cut , have a few rags handy. IF its an older system you may have to drain the tank as mick say's by turning off the stopcock outside . if there is a water metre fitted there will be be an on/off lever on it if not it will be a valve on the mains

wexandproud

you'll need a couple of brass nuts , copper ''olives'' and female blanks . Any good plumbers suppliers will have them

Treseemme.

wexandproud wrote: »

you'll need a couple of brass nuts , copper ''olives'' and female blanks . Any good plumbers suppliers will have them

Ya I have those ready

John.G

re shutting water off, you will see one or more likely two valves on the bottom of your cold water storage (CWST), shut these and open the hot and cold taps in the bathroom, this is probably easier than poking around in the hot press, also open any hot water downstairs tap as this will drain almost all the water from the hot water pipe.
The cold may still be full of water underneath the bath but if 3/4 ins piping will contain ~ 0.3 litres/litre length so if 5 meter (15ft) of pipe then you may have to drain off (soak up) 1.5 to 2 litres of water when you cut pipe.

Treseemme.

John.G wrote: »

re shutting water off, you will see one or more likely two valves on the bottom of your cold water storage (CWST), shut these and open the hot and cold taps in the bathroom, this is probably easier than poking around in the hot press, also open any hot water downstairs tap as this will drain almost all the water from the hot water pipe.
The cold may still be full of water underneath the bath but if 3/4 ins piping will contain ~ 0.3 litres/litre length so if 5 meter (15ft) of pipe then you may have to drain off (soak up) 1.5 to 2 litres of water when you cut pipe.

Thanks ya I had figured to open the hot tap downstairs alright

Treseemme.

Will a hacksaw do for cutting and do you need PTFE on the blanks?

I've a proper cutter for 1/2" but nothing for 3/4

John.G

A hacksaw will do but sometimes difficult to get a straight cut but this isn't of huge importance as there will be 5mm or so of pipe beyond the olive, just make sure to push the pipe fully in to the fitting before tightening, I never use tape on new fittings but no harm in doing so, I would first tighten the nut fully first and then remove, put a few wraps of tape, then re tighten.

Treseemme.

John.G wrote: »

A hacksaw will do but sometimes difficult to get a straight cut but this isn't of huge importance as there will be 5mm or so of pipe beyond the olive, just make sure to push the pipe fully in to the fitting before tightening, I never use tape on new fittings but no harm in doing so, I would first tighten the nut fully first and then remove, put a few wraps of tape, then re tighten.

Thanks where does the tape go is it on the thread or the olive?

John.G

The olive, and only a few wraps, some say use a wrap or so on the thread as well as it lubricates it and makes it easier to tighten (and untighten in 20 years time)