Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Water Tank Attic.

  • 10-01-2021 3:48am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 36


    This time last year we got a brand new heating system installed including new rads & combi boiler. But the plastic cold water tank wasn't removed. The tank is directly over the bedroom and even now as I type this I can hear water trickling. This is an ongoing noise. It's very annoying when trying to sleep. The plumber told us when installing the combi system that the tank would be null and void, I had assumed he was draining it and removing it so, as he removed the old cylinder. What can I do in this situation as the sound is very frustrating and I really need the tank gone to free up space in attic.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 83,855 ✭✭✭✭Atlantic Dawn
    M


    A tank in the attic would be keeping with regulations, it should only be refilling after a toilet flush or use of the bathroom sink, without it the moment water supply is disrupted you won't be able to flush the toilet. Would insulation around the entry point to the attic resolve it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 36 JSheridan81


    A tank in the attic would be keeping with regulations, it should only be refilling after a toilet flush or use of the bathroom sink, without it the moment water supply is disrupted you won't be able to flush the toilet. Would insulation around the entry point to the attic resolve it?
    I have the Attic door insulated but still no joy. But should the tank have been removed as the plumber specifically specified it would be null and void with combi boiler


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69,903 ✭✭✭✭L1011


    No, a cold water tank would still be standard despite a combi boiler. You would generally not have a *hot* tank (in a hot press or equivalent) with a combi boiler.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 218 ✭✭Callan


    I replaced the ball cock fill valve on my attic storage with this https://www.fluidmaster.com/united-kingdom-products/pro75b-pro-side-entry-fill-valve-with-heavy-duty-brass-shank/

    Unlike the ball cock, this valve doesn't gradually reduce pressure to a trickle, it stays fully open until it reaches the set level. It also fills below the water level so you don't have water splashing into to tank.

    Like you my storage tank is above my bedroom. The only noise I hear now is the water flowing through the pipe to the attic, which you have to strain your ear to hear.

    I'm not sure if this meets regulation, but it states its anti syphon and is sold in plumbers suppliers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 36 JSheridan81


    Callan wrote: »
    I replaced the ball cock fill valve on my attic storage with this https://www.fluidmaster.com/united-kingdom-products/pro75b-pro-side-entry-fill-valve-with-heavy-duty-brass-shank/

    Unlike the ball cock, this valve doesn't gradually reduce pressure to a trickle, it stays fully open until it reaches the set level. It also fills below the water level so you don't have water splashing into to tank.

    Like you my storage tank is above my bedroom. The only noise I hear now is the water flowing through the pipe to the attic, which you have to strain your ear to hear.

    I'm not sure if this meets regulation, but it states its anti syphon and is sold in plumbers suppliers.

    I just spoke with the plumber & explained the situation, he can't come due to covid regulations, but he said once he can then he'll install that for me


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭carveone


    I just spoke with the plumber & explained the situation, he can't come due to covid regulations, but he said once he can then he'll install that for me

    I guess a plumber can't do optional repairs but I wonder about others. My neighbour has a dripping tap (it's a lot more than dripping) which is wasting water. I suppose it might be up to the plumber to decide whether that's essential or not.

    She wanted me to do it but I'm not a plumber and the gate valves are jammed so I'm not enthusiastic about accidentally creating an emergency just to get a plumber out!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,137 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Callan wrote: »
    I replaced the ball cock fill valve on my attic storage with this https://www.fluidmaster.com/united-kingdom-products/pro75b-pro-side-entry-fill-valve-with-heavy-duty-brass-shank/

    Unlike the ball cock, this valve doesn't gradually reduce pressure to a trickle, it stays fully open until it reaches the set level. It also fills below the water level so you don't have water splashing into to tank.

    Like you my storage tank is above my bedroom. The only noise I hear now is the water flowing through the pipe to the attic, which you have to strain your ear to hear.

    I'm not sure if this meets regulation, but it states its anti syphon and is sold in plumbers suppliers.

    Could be entirely wrong but is that not a slower fill if it's filling below the water solely due to water pressure volume in a large tank.

    Wonder what the difference is between it and a ballcock stop valve.
    .I'm a fan of fast fill so if something is better than ballcock valve that would be great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭carveone


    Some ideas: I had the same issue years ago in my old bedroom at home when I was a child. I remember trying a few things - like tying a piece of cloth to the outlet so that when the dribble stage starts it dribbles down the cloth. Something like that. Seems silly but it did help a bit.

    Other people attach hose to the valve but that's against regulations as you could then siphon water back into the supply. You could put a bunch of holes in the hose though!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 218 ✭✭Callan


    I'm not sure TBH. I have quite high mains pressure here.

    The thing with ball cock valves is that the pressure reduces as it reaches the set level, whereas the fluidmaster is on full flow until it shuts off. I would image the fluidmaster would always fill the tank quicker.

    I'd definitely recommended one.
    listermint wrote: »
    Could be entirely wrong but is that not a slower fill if it's filling below the water solely due to water pressure volume in a large tank.

    Wonder what the difference is between it and a ballcock stop valve.
    .I'm a fan of fast fill so if something is better than ballcock valve that would be great


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,962 ✭✭✭✭astrofool


    The diaphragm in the valve also degrades over the years, we went from a constant drip/drip to (almost) on/off by changing to a new valve (diaphragm might have been enough, but at 30 years old, the old one had it's day). We have 2 (joined) attic cold water tanks which made the drip problem worse :)


  • Advertisement
Advertisement