Kill brambles but not hedge ...

tombrown

I have a hedge that is mostly thorn (I *think* it is blackthorn) and a bit of fuschia. There are parts where brambles have grown up through it. Digging them out is not possible .

Is there any treatment that will kill the bramble, but not the hedge?

Also note that the hedge is on a border with a field, that often has cattle, so need to be sure I am not endangering them with any treatment.

Thanks

_Brian

There’s isn’t any product that’s so selective.

You could think out the brambles by hand if they are that big of a concern but honestly they are a massive boon to bees etc so I wouldn’t get too uptight either

blackbox

There is no selective spray for this.

Pull them out at the roots using heavy leather gloves if you can. If you can't pull them, cut them as close to the ground as possible several times in the year.

They are good for wildlife, but that doesn't mean you want them growing in a formal hedge.

tombrown

Thanks guys - I try to cut them back as much as possible. Getting at the roots is difficult, as they are right in under the hedge.

I think I'll just try to cut them back as much as possible; the hedge isn't that "formal" so I guess I'll live with it & feed the bees, though, to be honest, the bees are spoilt for choice, when it comes to brambles, around here

lucalux

tombrown wrote: »

Thanks guys - I try to cut them back as much as possible. Getting at the roots is difficult, as they are right in under the hedge.

I think I'll just try to cut them back as much as possible; the hedge isn't that "formal" so I guess I'll live with it & feed the bees

If you can access the roots at all,(ie on your side of boundary) would a foldable saw help at all?

You know the foldable thin saws for pruning? Here's one just as an example https://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-43860-230-Folding-Pruning/dp/B0013EVHYU

Slim pointed edge so you can get in between the other shrubs vegetation, and rigid enough to saw through the roots, which can be considerable under the ground. Takes repeated goes to weaken the plants, but does work well.

They're a pain if taking over an area, though they are indeed great for wildlife.

tombrown

Yeah - I can do that. In fact there is no issue me getting at them from the field.

I was referring more to digging up the root ball, which is the best way or getting rid of brambles ... that is not feasible without digging up the hedge at the same time

The Continental Op

No reason you can cut your brambles down then crawl under the hedge and paint the bramble stumps with a glyphosate based stump killer. They aren't 100% effective by a long way but may reduce the amount of brambles growing back each year. Ideal time to do this is during the winter when the chemical has more chance to be absorbed. Obviously you have to avoid at all costs getting the glyphosate on the hedge. You can also put a plastic bag over the bramble stem (leave a few inches) held in place with a rubber band.

looksee

What TCO said. Also afaik you don't have to get a lot of roots out, if you can get at the 'crown' or knobbly bit just under the ground, and cut it off, making sure you get any new buds showing from it, then you have the active bit, the roots themselves will not regenerate.

When we were cutting back thickets of brambles we left about 8 inches or so of stem sticking up after the first phase cutting back, so it was easy to go back later and concentrate on digging up the 'crown' (I don't know if it has a proper name). For this purpose a mattock is yer only man. But not in a hedgerow. Cut back then glycophosphate, you will probably have to do it a couple of times and initially new stuff will grow, well, also in the long term new stuff will grow, but at least you can control it. Once you have pulled out the spaghetti strands of bramble - from the bottom - you may well find that your hedge is looking a bit thin, but there are not as many actual bramble plants as you thought.

Incidentally you may wish to learn to identify the difference between wild rose and bramble (initially a bit subtle). The wild rose is more manageable, though the thorns are more vicious, and you may wish to leave it to be part of the hedge.

Edit: its usually recommended to use glycophosphate when there is good growth - early summer - so that the plant takes it down to the roots. Also dryer weather is preferred so it doesn't get washed off.

Hocus Focus

looksee wrote: »

What TCO said. Also afaik you don't have to get a lot of roots out, if you can get at the 'crown' or knobbly bit just under the ground, and cut it off, making sure you get any new buds showing from it, then you have the active bit, the roots themselves will not regenerate.

When we were cutting back thickets of brambles we left about 8 inches or so of stem sticking up after the first phase cutting back, so it was easy to go back later and concentrate on digging up the 'crown' (I don't know if it has a proper name). For this purpose a mattock is yer only man. But not in a hedgerow. Cut back then glycophosphate, you will probably have to do it a couple of times and initially new stuff will grow, well, also in the long term new stuff will grow, but at least you can control it. Once you have pulled out the spaghetti strands of bramble - from the bottom - you may well find that your hedge is looking a bit thin, but there are not as many actual bramble plants as you thought.

Incidentally you may wish to learn to identify the difference between wild rose and bramble (initially a bit subtle). The wild rose is more manageable, though the thorns are more vicious, and you may wish to leave it to be part of the hedge.

Edit: its usually recommended to use glycophosphate when there is good growth - early summer - so that the plant takes it down to the roots. Also dryer weather is preferred so it doesn't get washed off.

A plastic bag held on with an elastic band will prevent it being washed off, see post#7.