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Have to hang a TV on a plasterboard wall, will this do?

  • 29-01-2021 7:45pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,625 ✭✭✭✭


    Have to move a 40" TV onto a plasterboard wall but there's nothing to attach it to behind the wall as it's small in width and TV needs to hang in middle.
    I'm putting TV on a single extendable arm, tilt and swivel bracket so will have just 4 holes for wallplugs.
    I have these plugs which say they support up to 35kg on a hollow wall, TV weighs 7.5kg, would I be safe enough just using 4 of these to hang the bracket, also have toggle bolts?
    Don't really want to have to put up a support board onto the wall if I can get away with it.

    https://ibb.co/j3QHxLf


«13

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭grounderfill


    Not worth risking it. The plasterboard would need to be opened up, reinforced with a timber bracket or a plywood panel then resealed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Have to move a 40" TV onto a plasterboard wall but there's nothing to attach it to behind the wall as it's small in width and TV needs to hang in middle.
    I'm putting TV on a single extendable arm, tilt and swivel bracket so will have just 4 holes for wallplugs.
    I have these plugs which say they support up to 35kg on a hollow wall, TV weighs 7.5kg, would I be safe enough just using 4 of these to hang the bracket, also have toggle bolts?
    Don't really want to have to put up a support board onto the wall if I can get away with it.

    https://ibb.co/j3QHxLf

    If its an extend and tilt arm you'll need decent grounds behind the plasterboard no other way around it.

    Probably be able to cut out a section of the plasterboard 10 mm smaller than the wall bracket and get ply in to the area fix that in place, refit the plasterboard over the ply then fit the bracket through the plasterboard in to the 18mm ply


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,483 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    If tv is big anchor a bigger wooden panel if you can find the batons behind you can secure it to that.I dont have luxury plasterboard but compressed cardboard.40" panny on a double expanding arm and no issues.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,466 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    The fact you are putting it on an extending arm means there will be an outward pulling force on the top top fixings while the tv is in the extended position. The plugs you have would be nowhere near good enough - they would probably hold it for a short while but will eventually fail.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,028 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    I have one TV on a wall that's just timber studs and pasterboard. I found the timber studs in the wall and l put the bracket onto those. I wouldn't chance those kind of fixings


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,625 ✭✭✭✭okidoki987


    Unfortunately no studs/batons due to where I need to fix the television.
    Really don't want to have to cut out the plasterboard.
    Assume no point in trying Gripit's as they do the same as the toggle bolts so no advantage?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭Pataman


    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Unfortunately no studs/batons due to where I need to fix the television.
    Really don't want to have to cut out the plasterboard.
    Assume no point in trying Gripit's as they do the same as the toggle bolts so no advantage?

    Really?
    There should be a stud every 16"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 847 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    Yeah it'd be weird to have no studs.

    It seems like youll need to expose the wall and put in bridging pieces between whatever studs are there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,524 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    almost guaranteed it would fall off the wall. .
    even the best plasterboard fixings are only as strong as the plasterboard. some can hold a huge weight but only if the slab is dry and no one pulls on it etc. there has to be something behind it. cut it out and put in a stud, bridger ect. if there is concrete behind then fix to that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,595 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Pataman wrote: »
    Really?
    There should be a stud every 16"
    could be just dabbed.
    The other idea is to use express nails, assuming its concrete behind
    https://www.topline.ie/tools-hardware/nails-screws-fixings/nails/masonry-nails/easi-fix/express-nail-100-pack

    with self tappers in the hole.

    its well documented here by me and others, you drive the express nail till its flush with the PB, allow 60mm of the nail in the wall, I generally use either 10 or 12 mm and then long self tappers, with a hex or cup head, into the hole.

    does not need to be stainless the link is just the idea
    https://eshop.wurth.ie/Product-categories/pias-stainless-steel-A2-plain-flat-head-AW/31123502020104.cyid/3112.cgid/en/GB/EUR/?pk_source=google&pk_medium=cpc&pk_campaign=103_Core-Products_Metal&pk_content=AllVersions_TEK_Screws_B&pk_kwd=tek%20screws&pk_cid=1755985628&gclid=CjwKCAiApNSABhAlEiwANuR9YCtWJ73BTIFNj0Fm0lwAbjhTfQ7xeVnKUCnbC4AoJftYGPfKeVTaSxoC7pkQAvD_BwE

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    could be just dabbed.
    The other idea is to use express nails, assuming its concrete behind
    https://www.topline.ie/tools-hardware/nails-screws-fixings/nails/masonry-nails/easi-fix/express-nail-100-pack

    with self tappers in the hole.

    its well documented here by me and others, you drive the express nail till its flush with the PB, allow 60mm of the nail in the wall, I generally use either 10 or 12 mm and then long self tappers, with a hex or cup head, into the hole.

    does not need to be stainless the link is just the idea
    https://eshop.wurth.ie/Product-categories/pias-stainless-steel-A2-plain-flat-head-AW/31123502020104.cyid/3112.cgid/en/GB/EUR/?pk_source=google&pk_medium=cpc&pk_campaign=103_Core-Products_Metal&pk_content=AllVersions_TEK_Screws_B&pk_kwd=tek%20screws&pk_cid=1755985628&gclid=CjwKCAiApNSABhAlEiwANuR9YCtWJ73BTIFNj0Fm0lwAbjhTfQ7xeVnKUCnbC4AoJftYGPfKeVTaSxoC7pkQAvD_BwE

    Just to add to Cal's solution, when buying the fixings have both components in your hands and make sure the screw gets a grip to "Thread" in to the express nail.
    Some times I've inserted a 6mm rawlplug in to the 8mm express nail to take a normal wood screw .

    The reason the express nail is left flush with the plasterboard is to ack like a washer and prevent the plasterboard from collapsing in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,597 ✭✭✭emeldc


    Google screwfix easyfix hollow wall anchors.
    Make sure you use the right size drill bit. I’ve used them loads of times. They work. I can’t post the link for some reason.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭Malcomex


    emeldc wrote: »
    Google screwfix easyfix hollow wall anchors.
    Make sure you use the right size drill bit. I’ve used them loads of times. They work. I can’t post the link for some reason.

    Still no good for that job


  • Registered Users Posts: 628 ✭✭✭JaCrispy


    Get yourself a stud detector. There has to be studs there, otherwise what holds in the plasterboard?


  • Registered Users Posts: 107 ✭✭yaknowski


    I've tried various wall anchors over the years, including the hollow and threaded ones. Could be just me but found them awkward enough, either they'd bend a bit when I'd tap them in or they wouldn't sit flush.

    Found these recently, https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/ and hung a 20kg mirror up with very little fuss.
    Was very neat and easy to use. Bought a drill bit (a flat wood one in this case as B&Q didn't have an 18mm round hole bit) and had the mirror up in a few mins. I used masking tape for measuring the template for the holes etc.

    Saw them in B&Q in Liffey Valley, but they only had the red ones.

    Looks like they have an all you need kit!
    https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/products/tv-kit


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,070 ✭✭✭purple hands


    JaCrispy wrote: »
    Get yourself a stud detector. There has to be studs there, otherwise what holds in the plasterboard?

    Any recommendations? Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭Malcomex


    Any recommendations? Thanks

    A narrow bladed screwdriver and a tape measure


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,889 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    yaknowski wrote: »
    I've tried various wall anchors over the years,

    Found these recently, https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/ and hung a 20kg mirror up with very little fuss.

    https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/products/tv-kit
    A mirror flat to the wall has very different stresses on the fixings
    compared to an extending television bracket


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,597 ✭✭✭emeldc


    Malcomex wrote: »
    Still no good for that job
    Both of my Tv’s are hanging with them. I also have a 6’ iron vertical radiator hanging with them. Maybe it’s how you’re using them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    Toggle bolts are your friend here. Look up the strength tests on YouTube.

    https://youtu.be/lHb-Tcvkn7M


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭Malcomex


    Toggle bolts are your friend here. Look up the strength tests on YouTube.

    https://youtu.be/lHb-Tcvkn7M

    He's hanging a 40" tv on a swingarm

    How is anyone realistically suggesting the slab will hold it?

    The mind boggle sometimes

    Now maybe it will sit there until disturbed but that's not what you'd call safe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,466 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    emeldc wrote: »
    Both of my Tv’s are hanging with them. I also have a 6’ iron vertical radiator hanging with them. Maybe it’s how you’re using them.

    Have you an extrnded arm tv hanging with them?
    Any of these fixing are limited by the strength of the plasterboard itself so while loads of these type of fixings are great for close hung items where the major force is directly downward and therefore a fair bit of strenth in the plasterboard,
    For something like a tv on an extending arm, the plasterboard is never going to be strong enough. So regsrdless of how skillfully you use the fixing, even if you could spread the load to say a 400mm x 400mm section of plasterboard, it would eventually fail, fixing intact but a section of wall coming with it.
    I would always test an extending tv bracket by partially putting my weight onto it at the extended position.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,413 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    mickdw wrote: »
    Have you an extrnded arm tv hanging with them?
    Any of these fixing are limited by the strength of the plasterboard itself so while loads of these type of fixings are great for close hung items where the major force is directly downward and therefore a fair bit of strenth in the plasterboard,
    For something like a tv on an extending arm, the plasterboard is never going to be strong enough. So regsrdless of how skillfully you use the fixing, even if you could spread the load to say a 400mm x 400mm section of plasterboard, it would eventually fail, fixing intact but a section of wall coming with it.
    I would always test an extending tv bracket by partially putting my weight onto it at the extended position.

    This is it, it’s not the strength of the fittings it’s the strength of the plasterboard. Hanging anything on a swing arm will put massive pressure on the plasterboard at the top of the bracket. I wouldn’t put an expensive tv there. Chances are when it comes down the fixing will be fine and there will be an inch wide hole in the wall where the fixings had been.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,854 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    I'd use concrete screws, drill and then just screw into the block behind the plaster plasterboard, .. theres no weight in the tv..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,413 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    Idbatterim wrote: »
    I'd put concrete screws into the block behind the plaster plasterboard, .. theres no weight in the tv..

    Pick up your tv and hold it to your chest, then hold it outstretched with your arms extended. You’ll find it’s quite heavy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,854 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    salmocab wrote: »
    Pick up your tv and hold it to your chest, then hold it outstretched with your arms extended. You’ll find it’s quite heavy.


    Sorry I agree. I mean in general its very little weight though. I've used concrete screws for all my recent tv hanging jobs, ridiculous strength compared to what's included in the tv bracket box they give you. Very easy to install and the screws cost about 15c each...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,413 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    The op didn’t mention concrete behind the plasterboard so I think we can take it there’s none and he specifically said it will be on a swing arm which will mean far more stress on the fixings.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,597 ✭✭✭emeldc


    Malcomex wrote: »
    He's hanging a 40" tv on a swingarm

    How is anyone realistically suggesting the slab will hold it?

    The mind boggle sometimes

    Now maybe it will sit there until disturbed but that's not what you'd call safe
    Yep, on a swinging arm. Just trying to help. Crack on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Stud wall - find the stud.

    Conctete behind insulated plasterboard - decent length bolt - assuming either pb or insulated pb

    Have em hanging in my own house.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,454 ✭✭✭mloc123


    JaCrispy wrote: »
    Get yourself a stud detector. There has to be studs there, otherwise what holds in the plasterboard?

    Depends when the house was built... Older (70s and 80s) houses tended to have the plasterboard dabbed on to concrete walls


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    If you don't have a stud detector just make a hole in the wall (small) in pretty much the planned bracket location and use a wire hager to locate the stud then.

    Tv and bracket will hide the damage or worst case some filler.

    At least you will have found the stud and the TV is safe.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 489 ✭✭grassylawn


    Gripits are good for plasterboard. I've used them for lots of stuff. Heaviest is probably 6kg mirror but that is also into stud. Most punishment would be blind and heavy curtains especially since structure of our windows/walls means they are into plasterboard only.

    Geefix are even stronger I think, but they are less versatile. I usually use the strongest gripits that will fit.

    IIRC both of these are viable for thinner than typical plasterboard walls. Some of our walls are thinner than normal and a lot of fixings are specified as being incompatible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,466 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Toggle bolts are your friend here. Look up the strength tests on YouTube.

    https://youtu.be/lHb-Tcvkn7M

    Interesting tests and glad he did the pull out tests as well as the in line test.
    The problem with the results is that his findings will differ hugely from what could be supported in the long term. If the board failed at 50 kg outward pull for example, a long term loading of maybe a third of that could also cause failure. Add in localised damage within an existing plasterboard wall that might reduce its ability to withstand such force and you could find a safe working load instead of being 50kg might be 10kg pull out force.
    Force on fixings from a tv extended out on a swing stand could be huge depending on design of wall bracket etc.
    Madness to even consider fixing to plasterboard.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    mickdw wrote: »
    Interesting tests and glad he did the pull out tests as well as the in line test.
    The problem with the results is that his findings will differ hugely from what could be supported in the long term. If the board failed at 50 kg outward pull for example, a long term loading of maybe a third of that could also cause failure. Add in localised damage within an existing plasterboard wall that might reduce its ability to withstand such force and you could find a safe working load instead of being 50kg might be 10kg pull out force.
    Force on fixings from a tv extended out on a swing stand could be huge depending on design of wall bracket etc.
    Madness to even consider fixing to plasterboard.

    Given the average drag that anyone can give a TV on a hanging bracket or a kid.

    Only way I'd hang is solid into stud or Wall. Imagine it came down on your child never mind the bloody wall.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭Malcomex


    Given the average drag that anyone can give a TV on a hanging bracket or a kid.

    Only way I'd hang is solid into styf or Wall. Imagine it came down on your child never mind the bloody wall.

    Madness to even consider it

    Anyone that does a lot of drilling and fixing wouldn't even consider it

    Like u said ,it.might stay there until disturbed and then fall down on top of a child's head


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 485 ✭✭SoapMcTavish




  • Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Horusire


    If it's dot and dab I have used these to mount my 14kg TV on a swing arm. I stitched the bracket to the wall though. 100kg a fixing seemingly and I used 6. Didn't want TV on ground

    Corefix Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixing for Flat Screen TVs, Radiators, Wall Cabinets & Shelving | 24 Box https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072JYXJL6/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_fabc_KXQGVWPWX7M6FGBQV4GS


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,666 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Any recommendations? Thanks

    A compass. Knock on the wall till you think you found a stud. Stick in the compass and see if it hits a stud or hollow. Repeat till you find one when you do. You can repeat till so you can find the centre of the stud. Holes are tiny and will be covered by the bracket.
    Drill a pilot hole , And then hang the bracket with coach screws.

    I tend to us brackets that span two studs. Don’t trust single arm ones

    These type : VonHaus 23-55 Inch TV Wall Bracket – Tilt and Swivel Mount for VESA Compatible Screens, 45kg Weight Capacity https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N50Q66Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_AD0ZW286PSDWE1NWGCTX


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    Malcomex wrote: »
    He's hanging a 40" tv on a swingarm

    How is anyone realistically suggesting the slab will hold it?

    The mind boggle sometimes

    Now maybe it will sit there until disturbed but that's not what you'd call safe

    Oops.....missed that it was on a swing arm. Fixing into stud or new timber a must.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,625 ✭✭✭✭okidoki987


    Cheers for suggestions.
    Looks like fixing straight onto plasterboard not the way to go so will fix using alternative means.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Cheers for suggestions.
    Looks like fixing straight onto plasterboard not the way to go so will fix using alternative means.

    Well the stud is behind your plasterboard. Just got to ensure you screw into it.

    Just incase - a stud is a timber behind the plasterboard in non solid (non concrete block) walls. They are all along the wall at 400mm (maybe a chippy can correct this if my understanding is wrong) apart.

    So either way you are connecting through the plasterboard you just have to screw through enough to bite into timber or concrete.

    Apologies if you already knew this


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭dp639


    Use a frame fixing and go through the plasterboard to the block - if you do this you'd be able to swing on it yourself!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,615 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    OP has said this is a plasterboard wall. No idea why people keep referring to blockwork behind plasterboard. I'd assume OP would have mention block is they were there.

    Blocks with dabbed plasterboard over is a blockwork wall, not a plasterboard wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,524 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    they also said there is no studs either. there has to be something in there holding it up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,615 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    they also said there is no studs either. there has to be something in there holding it up

    He said there was no studs in that location, not there there were no studs in the entire wall.

    Would be very easy for the bracket to fall between two studs when exactly centred on the room.
    Could also be metal studs. which might not be as apparent.
    If an external wall, it could is insulated PB which which conceal the presence of studs.

    Lots of possibilities without assuming there's unaware that it's a block wall. But I suppose that s possible too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Mellor wrote: »
    He said there was no studs in that location, not there there were no studs in the entire wall.

    Would be very easy for the bracket to fall between two studs when exactly centred on the room.
    Could also be metal studs. which might not be as apparent.
    If an external wall, it could is insulated PB which which conceal the presence of studs.

    Lots of possibilities without assuming there's unaware that it's a block wall. But I suppose that s possible too.

    studs are a foot apart - most arms cover that - that seems like nonsense haha

    solution to OP question. drill a smallhole through the wall where you want the bracket and find out if there is blocks behind or fish for nearest stud.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,615 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    studs are a foot apart - most arms cover that - that seems like nonsense haha
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,115 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Mellor wrote: »
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L

    then put a 400mm wide piece of wood screwed to the studs and hang the bracket from that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Mellor wrote: »
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L

    I was being an ass hahaha - you will see i said 400mm in an earlier post.

    Look Loyatemu thought on it for a second and has presented a solution - 2 mins in B&Q looking at fixings would present 10 more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,205 ✭✭✭cruizer101


    OP
    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Don't really want to have to put up a support board onto the wall if I can get away with it.
    loyatemu wrote: »
    then put a 400mm wide piece of wood screwed to the studs and hang the bracket from that?

    The point was OP was looking for alternatives to that


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