Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

Options
1141517192043

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,809 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    As its turned out the percentage and gom readings dropped in a linear manner down to 27 percent.

    On the journeys that took it from 50 percent to 27 percent I was still getting 2 to 2.5 kms for every percent used.

    Did 161 kms on 73 percent (27 percent left - 58 kms on gom) of the battery before charging again.

    Happy with that



  • Registered Users Posts: 65,401 ✭✭✭✭unkel
    Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!


    That's pretty good going! EVs love temps in the early 20s. That figure gave you a range of 221km, which is about right for Ioniq in summer on a non-motorway (nowhere near 120km/h) trip



  • Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭Fidoodles


    Seriously dont bother with the dealer. I'll take a pic tomorrow, its a 2 minute job, and made a huge difference.



  • Registered Users Posts: 72 ✭✭Fidoodles



    I used a little fabric tape, worked a treat. You can see where the latch cuts into it, but no more rattles.


    This is the boot door. I removed this with a Torx bit (I incorrectly said Allen Key before), and used more of the fabric tape to pack it out a little. I've no rattles now.



  • Posts: 0 ✭✭✭✭ Henrik Squeaking Pest


    This car really is efficient, this was after topping the battery up with a free charger too. Ludicrous value on the miles/kWh. (Out of the car park and down a hill for a good 5/6 of a mile with only a slight bit of power.





  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,479 ✭✭✭denismc


    Thanks for that, should be easy enough fix, I thought the noise was coming from inside the latch mechanism.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,736 ✭✭✭zg3409


    On the topic of GOM beware the ranges you see are based on recent trips, so if recent trips were slow and no motorway, then GOM will show big range. If you then head out on a motorway actual range will be less. As suggested intend charging at 20 or 25% unless you are sure you will make it.


    You also need to run the battery to below 20% regularly for the GOM to know the true point at which the battery will die, so don't keep battery full for months without ever running lowish.


    I for one try to charge every 100km on long motorway trips. I typically fill to 70 or 80% then move on.

    On trips 160km or less I home charge only.

    Post edited by zg3409 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭cfingers


    Did you get chance to install the struts yet?


    I have a frunk and its great. I don't put granny cable in there as I find it's difficult to put other cable



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,374 ✭✭✭baldshin


    I did, and have had to return them! They're advertised as being for 2016-2019 Ioniqs, but don't come with the correct clips to attach the bottom part of the strut. Installed one side the best way I could, but the bonnet wouldn't close due to the wrong clip, so sending them back. Would have been great had they worked as, even with just one installed, it worked seamlessly.



  • Registered Users Posts: 173 ✭✭Madisonmenece


    Hi all,

    Have 191 ioniq with 66k on the clock, was thinking about changing up originally to the ioniq 5 but that is entry of 47k which I don't want to spend.

    I have had a 38kw for the last few days while my ioniq has the charge lock actuator replaced, and while it seems like most of the changes are interior it does seem to have an extra 100km of range.

    I do redline my car on regular basis for my commute and evening milage, getting 20k fory own is it worth going for the 38kw.


    Anyone Change up, the slower charge seems to be the only downside but few and far between for me.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 4,539 ✭✭✭eagerv


    The entry level of the Ioniq 5 is a lot less than that, starts around 38K. Still well equipped and a 58kWh battery. We were quoted near enough that for a 38kWh classic last year..



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Ioniq 38 is slower charging on DC, and you lose a lot of the creature comforts from the 28 - like adaptive cruise



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭k123456


    That is interesting re losing a lot of the creature comforts from the 28 - like adaptive cruise> I was considering a 38 from NI to replace my 28


    Just out of interest , what else is lost please .. adaptive cruise and lack of fastish DC charging ....


    The only gains , as far as I can see are larger battery and the ability to switch on the rear view cam, when driving (not really a gain)



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,539 ✭✭✭eagerv


    Are you sure there is no adaptive cruise? Could have sworn it was on the one I drove. The interior has had a nice revamp, with leather and electric memory drivers seat, also the new info system with many features not on the 28. New LED lights as well. Pity about the charging speed though. The price was excessive, but I think there are a few good deals going now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Irish spec has no adaptive cruise. Same as Kona.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,024 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    I was looking at the 38 before we eventually ended up with a Kona, it was a NI spec so adaptive cruise included and in fairness a huge spec.

    In the end we went for the Kona (with lower spec/space) due to two reasons, range and charging speed. Wise move as herself has used it a lot on longer trips and only ever needs to charge the odd time due to ~440km range.

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 21,990 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    NI spec is same as GB. You need "premium" or "premium SE" spec to get tacc. "Premium" in NI/GB is bare bones, no heated seats etc



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 19,024 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Oh, I forget what the trim was, must have been SE as it had the heated seats, ACC etc

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. EDDI, hot water cylinder, roof rails...

    Public Profile active ads for slave1 (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,182 ✭✭✭k123456


    Im open to correction but I think NI Premium, without the SE does have ACC, front heated seats (but no leather)



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,809 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    When you say under 20 percent - is it a case of just running it down to 15 to 18 percent.

    And how frequently does it need to be done.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,736 ✭✭✭zg3409


    The BMS (battery management system) learns how much real power is in each cell only when they go from low (say less than 10% overall) to 100%. After this happens the BMS can better guess when each cell will die and so it will better guess range down to 0%. If you never charge to 100% and never go low, then over time BMS will get the guess more and more wrong and some day when you do a long drive range could suddenly jump from 10% to 0%. I would recommend charging to 100% at least once a month, just before driving car, and at least every 2 or 3 months when it suits you letting it go down to 20% or less. If less than 20% charge plan to charge it back up quickly as leaving it below 20% is not good too. It's not the end of the world if you don't. I try to never rely on the last 15% of range anyway, it's too stressful and you start to get warnings from 14% anyway. If my battery is really low I put it on charge as soon as I get home and I don't delay for night rate. I typically charge to 100% 4 or 5 times as week as my commute is long distance, but the car does not sit on 100% for more than a few hours in the early morning.


    Remember now if the time of the year to start using the timed preheating to warm the cabin too. It helps keep your range and warm the batteries a bit also increasing range. Preheating starts 30 minutes before the time you set, so if you only need a little preheat at this time of the year I set it to preheat slightly later. E.g. I leave home at 7am, so I set car to preheat for 7:15am departure. Car will wake up at 6:45am and heat for 30 minutes, but I will hop in at 7am and leave. This saves 15 minutes un necessary heating for this time of year saving me a few pennies and saving the neighbours the noise of car coming to life earlier. I change the times as deep winter kicks in.



  • Registered Users Posts: 156 ✭✭zenith90


    Due to get the 4 year / 60k km service on our Ioniq. Any recommendations for dealers who would carry it out at a reasonable price?

    I'll change the cabin filter myself, new wipers just fitted.

    Based in Leinster but open to a little road trip also!

    TIA!



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,809 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    Pre heat working at the moment as a test


    How does it decide what settings to use - is the way I had it set when i last turned off the car.

    For example its currently only using the vents behind the windscreen.

    If I want to use the dash vents as well is it a case of setting those in the climate control settings at end of previous journey.

    I've been using auto and set to 22 degrees up to now.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,736 ✭✭✭zg3409


    The settings are in the preheat menu. There is a tick box for winscreen or not, and a temperature. It comes to life 30 minutes before set time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,736 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I use the dealer in Rathdrum and asked them not to wash car as I was in a hurry and hung around. I told them I changed the pollen filter myself (no tools required, drop down glovebox) which I got for 10 euro delivered. They took money off service price. I think it came to around 100 euro. I am way past 60,000km but I think it might be break fluid that is extra the odd service. Ring around and shop around. I like swords in that they have a Dropbox to leave keys the night before or early am, but prices were a little high. Deansgrange tried to do unnecessary stuff and overcharge.

    Post edited by zg3409 on


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,539 ✭✭✭eagerv


    Also in Leinster, had our first (For us) service at Wexford earlier in year. Charged us €99 which I thought was expensive, seeing there were no updates to be done and we told them not to wash car. They sent us a nice video showing tyre threads etc (Recently changed by them).

    Basically paying for a stamp in the non existent service book..



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,185 ✭✭✭pad199207


    In the wild




  • Registered Users Posts: 33,607 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    I was checking out a used Ioniq for sale, and it didn't say if it was 28 or 38 battery, but I checked Gov Tax website and weight was listed as 1523kg.

    Which would that suggest it is?


    Edit: just checked photos, and it has the old style dash, rather than the large LCD display, so assuming its the 28kw one then?

    Post edited by NIMAN on


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,267 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    If it's the old style dash then it's a 28kwh I would think yeah. Other easy way to tell is if the front "grill" is just a grey panel or if it's the weird silvery coloured one.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 33,607 ✭✭✭✭NIMAN


    I thought I had read that the new model started in late 2018, but I seen plenty of 2019 that are the old model, which I think confused me too! So it must have been 2019 when newer, face-lifted model arrived.



Advertisement