Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

fricatus

Efitz2019 wrote: »

Left the car in today for the door handle issue. They say it’s not covered under warranty. So I had to pay for the inspection they did on the handle. I’ve contacted Hyundai Ireland to see if I have any luck with them. For people who got it resolved under warranty did you have to put up a fight? I explained how if they google it they will see its a common issue. To which I was told it was the first they seen!!

I brought mine to Lyng's in KK sometime during the summer. They hadn't seen the issue, but they agreed that a door handle shouldn't be breaking in this way on a two-year-old car. They said they'd do the work and put in a warranty claim with Hyundai Ireland, and said that I'd have to pay if they rejected it. I said fair enough and haven't heard anything since.

Zamboni

Stupid question alert

I am getting intermittent Auxiliary Battery Saver messages when I start 2017 Ioniq.
Is that an indication the 12v needs replaced or "ah shure tis grand"?
Thanks

Black_Knight

Zamboni wrote: »

Stupid question alert

I am getting intermittent Auxiliary Battery Saver messages when I start 2017 Ioniq.
Is that an indication the 12v needs replaced or "ah shure tis grand"?
Thanks

Most likely means your using the 12v with the car not turned on, so it warns you. It may display the same message on startup if the last time the car was used it was using the 12v.

2017 though, so could be no harm replacing it

KCross

Zamboni wrote: »

Stupid question alert

I am getting intermittent Auxiliary Battery Saver messages when I start 2017 Ioniq.
Is that an indication the 12v needs replaced or "ah shure tis grand"?
Thanks

It means the 12V is going low and the car has topped it up from the high voltage battery.

Could be that the 12V needs replacing or could simply be that the car is idle more (covid lockdown) and not getting enough of a topup from charging and driving.

Is the car idle for days on end? How often is it getting charged per week?

zg3409

Zamboni wrote: »

Stupid question alert

I am getting intermittent Auxiliary Battery Saver messages when I start 2017 Ioniq.
Is that an indication the 12v needs replaced or "ah shure tis grand"?
Thanks

Is 12v battery the original as in 4 years old? If so I would replace it for peace of mind. I replaced my 171 battery and I still get the odd battery saver warning first thing in the morning. Its typically after nights where car was not plugged in at all, versus nights where car charged overnight. It also happens more on very cold nights. With a new 12v you at least know the battery is probably OK. Make sure car has latest software too next service, as that tops up 12v battery more often. I think the latest kona software hides that warning completely from driver to prevent nuisance calls to dealers.

unkel

It's a software bug that the voltage of the 12V battery is not checked often enough and this battery is not topped up often enough. This lets the 12V go down all the way to 12V or even below, which is very bad for a lead acid battery, reducing its life

As zg3409 suggests, if you got 3 or 4 years out of it, you're lucky, might as well just replace it, batteries are dirt cheap and it will save you a lot of hassle in case the battery goes bad and leaves you standing somewhere

If I still had my Ioniq and it was out of warranty, I'd replace it with a LiFePo4 4 cell battery and you'll never have this problem again as that can go down to 10V no probs and still work

eagerv

Our original battery (I think) is coming up on 4 years old. No problems as yet, except for the odd pre-heating problems. Will probably replace battery in near future. This one is recommended by Halfords: https://www.halfords.ie/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/yuasa-hsb056-silver-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-173975.html


Normally don't shop there, but seems a well respected battery make.

Silent Running

unkel wrote: »

It's a software bug that the voltage of the 12V battery is not checked often enough and this battery is not topped up often enough. This lets the 12V go down all the way to 12V or even below, which is very bad for a lead acid battery, reducing its life

As zg3409 suggests, if you got 3 or 4 years out of it, you're lucky, might as well just replace it, batteries are dirt cheap and it will save you a lot of hassle in case the battery goes bad and leaves you standing somewhere

If I still had my Ioniq and it was out of warranty, I'd replace it with a LiFePo4 4 cell battery and you'll never have this problem again as that can go down to 10V no probs and still work

How would that work with charging though? The car's 12v charging system would be set up to charge a wet battery and I can't imagine any lithium battery dealing well with the same voltages.

I seem to remember that the battery saver only has a certain amount of tries (maybe 4?) and then gives up. Normally that would be fine, but in these Covid times cars are sitting around unused more, or are only used on short runs, not putting enough into the 12V. If my car sits for long time, I'll stick the smart charger on the 12V to give it a top-up.

unkel

4 cell LiFePo4 is a drop in replacement for lead acid :-)

In any car, even ICE. Alternator or DC-DC inverter voltage are usually around 14-15V which is perfectly fine. The max a 4 cell LiFePo4 can be charged to is 16.8V which of course will never happen

A lot of high end bikes and cars no longer have lead acid batteries these days for obvious reasons, mainly longevity and weight loss

zg3409

eagerv wrote: »

Our original battery (I think) is coming up on 4 years old. No problems as yet, except for the odd pre-heating problems. Will probably replace battery in near future. This one is recommended by Halfords: https://www.halfords.ie/motoring/batteries/car-batteries/yuasa-hsb056-silver-12v-car-battery-5-year-guarantee-173975.html


Normally don't shop there, but seems a well respected battery make.

I got mine from local motor factors. Ring ahead for a price. Typically less than halfords prices and more local. Some during covid are restricting access and opening hours but you can ring. If you don't support them they will all be gone in a few years.

quenching

unkel wrote: »

4 cell LiFePo4 is a drop in replacement for lead acid :-)

In any car, even ICE. Alternator or DC-DC inverter voltage are usually around 14-15V which is perfectly fine. The max a 4 cell LiFePo4 can be charged to is 16.8V which of course will never happen

A lot of high end bikes and cars no longer have lead acid batteries these days for obvious reasons, mainly longevity and weight loss

I see you mention this idea a lot, have you done it yourself yet? Can you point to a specific LiFePo4 battery that’s a straight swap for the OEM Ioniq one? What new cars are supplied with LiFePo4 batteries? The lead acid lumps do seem terribly old fashioned things to be still hauling around.

Kramer

quenching wrote: »

I see you mention this idea a lot, have you done it yourself yet? Can you point to a specific LiFePo4 battery that’s a straight swap for the OEM Ioniq one?

Personally, I wouldn't if you value your Ioniq's manufacturer warranty.
It would be a non-standard/non-OEM/non-approved part & a part that interacts with the HV battery/DC-DC converter & electronics.

If anything went wrong & Hyundai discovered it, they could easily blame it & you would have no leg to stand on, IMO.

Out of warranty, fire ahead, but the benefits would be minimal, if any.

unkel

quenching wrote: »

I see you mention this idea a lot, have you done it yourself yet?

Not on my cars. Ioniq was still under manufacturer's warranty when I sold it and my current car, a Tesla is also still under manufacturer's warranty until this time next year. If the battery should fail after that, I will replace it with LiFePo4

quenching wrote: »

Can you point to a specific LiFePo4 battery that’s a straight swap for the OEM Ioniq one?

As long as you use 4 cells and it has a capacity of at least half the OEM lead acid one, it should be fine. Obviously it will be smaller in size, so you would need to somehow securely fit it

quenching wrote: »

What new cars are supplied with LiFePo4 batteries?

I'd say most cars costing over €500k and if they don't, they should :pac:

Nearly all decent motorbikes now have LiFePo4 aux batteries

irishgrover

Hi All,
after 3 years of exceptionally happy ownership, I'm going to let my wonderful aqua blue Premium SE find a new home.
I've it up on donedeal here for €22500.
I need to tidy up the add and photos which I'll do in the next couple of days

If anyone has an interest and wants a boardsie discount please shout.

I have a hankering for a 2020 eSoul if anyone has a spare one going.

Black_Knight

irishgrover wrote: »

Hi All,
after 3 years of exceptionally happy ownership, I'm going to let my wonderful aqua blue Premium SE find a new home.
I've it up on donedeal here for €22500.
I need to tidy up the add and photos which I'll do in the next couple of days

If anyone has an interest and wants a boardsie discount please shout.

I have a hankering for a 2020 eSoul if anyone has a spare one going.

I think you're in for a reality check with that price. Nice spec, but if someone offered 20 you should bite their hand off

quenching

unkel wrote: »

Not on my cars. Ioniq was still under manufacturer's warranty when I sold it and my current car, a Tesla is also still under manufacturer's warranty until this time next year. If the battery should fail after that, I will replace it with LiFePo4



As long as you use 4 cells and it has a capacity of at least half the OEM lead acid one, it should be fine. Obviously it will be smaller in size, so you would need to somehow securely fit it



I'd say most cars costing over €500k and if they don't, they should :pac:

Nearly all decent motorbikes now have LiFePo4 aux batteries

It would appear your idea of “high end” cars differs from mine by an order of magnitude

unkel

I have no idea, I just made the figure up

Even more mundane cars like the €25-30k or so Hyundai Ioniq PHEV have a lithium battery now (and no longer a lead acid)

irishgrover

Black_Knight wrote:

I think you're in for a reality check with that price. Nice spec, but if someone offered 20 you should bite their hand off

Obviously there is wiggle room with the price. FYI : have had 2 offers north of €20k for trade in

Black_Knight

irishgrover wrote: »

Obviously there is wiggle room with the price. FYI : have had 2 offers north of €20k for trade in

Very good! Take em! (Assuming the cost to change is favourable). I had trade offers of 13k at the low end on my 2017 ioniq. High end was over 16k, though it all came down to the cost to change in the end.

unkel

Trade in offers are pretty meaningless if the sticker price was thousands too high in the first place. It's a trade trick to make people feel good that's as old as the car trade itself. If you trade in, the cost to change is all that counts.

Black_Knight

unkel wrote: »

Trade in offers are pretty meaningless if the sticker price was thousands too high in the first place. It's a trade trick to make people feel good that's as old as the car trade itself. If you trade in, the cost to change is all that counts.

Yup. So I sold private. Way less than I expected, but got a nice discount off the ROTR price.

unkel

You can nearly always do better if you sell privately. If you think about it, the dealer will have to spend money tidying up your old car, fix anything that's wrong, advertise it, and they would have to provide a warranty with it and stand over it and spend time selling it. All the cost involved in that plus a profit margin can easily add up to a thousand or two on a €20k car

It's hassle of course so most people don't bother. Grand if you don't have the time / don't want the hassle and you have no need for a few thousand euro extra that you are kindly giving to the dealer. Personally, I'd rather keep that cash in my own pocket

CBD2

Hi there, have ioniq 28 new since 2017..great car. Have the ABL charger as supplied and fitted by ESB grant back then. It's 16A 3.4kw and I'd like to upgrade to 32A 7kw as We now have vw id.4 as well as the ioniq. I've seen it mentioned on this thread that it can be upgraded fairly easy so I'd really appreciate if someone could PM me any link or info that would help in my quest. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.

Black_Knight

CBD2 wrote: »

Hi there, have ioniq 28 new since 2017..great car. Have the ABL charger as supplied and fitted by ESB grant back then. It's 16A 3.4kw and I'd like to upgrade to 32A 7kw as We now have vw id.4 as well as the ioniq. I've seen it mentioned on this thread that it can be upgraded fairly easy so I'd really appreciate if someone could PM me any link or info that would help in my quest. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.

Is it wired back to the fuse box for 32amp though?

Also, congrats on the id4. Just got one myself and happy days with it. Will miss the old ioniq, just can't justify it sitting depreciating in the driveway.

unkel

CBD2 wrote: »

Hi there, have ioniq 28 new since 2017..great car. Have the ABL charger as supplied and fitted by ESB grant back then. It's 16A 3.4kw and I'd like to upgrade to 32A 7kw as We now have vw id.4 as well as the ioniq. I've seen it mentioned on this thread that it can be upgraded fairly easy so I'd really appreciate if someone could PM me any link or info that would help in my quest. I can't find it anywhere. Thanks in advance.

You can't. Unless Nigel Daly installed 6mm2 or 10mm2 cable and a 40A RCBO when he installed your ABL charger. Which he didn't do, I can tell from here

You will have to get the charger rewired I'm afraid. No huge job, any electrician can do it. But when done, you will need to re-program the ABL unit. It's not hard if you like doing that sort of thing. I did mine 4 years ago (like yourself I also got an Ioniq in early 2017 and I also had the ABL unit installed by Nigel Daly)

There are threads on this forum about exactly what to do, but you will have to dig them up

CBD2

Thanks for the replies. Yeah I forgot to say I'd have to to install 6sq cable and 40a breaker. It's right at front door and only about 3m of cable require to replace old. I like the ABL as it's discreet and when I got if first the postman was trying to put post in it��. I'll just have to keep looking through threads so but at least I know it's there somewhere. Thanks again

irishgrover

right Folks, especially though who have moved on from their Ioniqs. Please critique my brain here as I'm about to do something I hope I won't regret... which is as follows..

1. Sell my Ioniq
2. Buy a 202 eSoul
3. Pay slightly over €11k for the privilege

My thought process is as follows

REASON FOR GETTING RID OF IONIQ
a. Depreciation will start to hit the Ioniq big time pretty quickly, especially because of the addition of newer cheaper, bigger cars.
b. I've had the car 3 years - time for change
c. I'll be doing more cross country driving and want to decrease charging stops.

REASON FOR CHOOSING ESOUL
a. Big battery - range almost as good as Kona / eNiro - price is less
b. Extremely good specs - better than Kona or eNiro. specifically electric seats/lumbar and harman kardon audio etc etc
c. ID3 Life spec is not good enough
d. can't afford a better spec id3 or id4, tesla 3 etc (and a 6 year old Model S is too much risk)
e. Can't think of any other good alternatives (big range being important)

The only significant Con's are:
a.) my wife thinks it's ugly but will still drive it
b.) One of my daughters thinks its so ****ing ugly that she can't believe that this is not an April fools joke and says that she will not go anywhere in it (mixed blessing as far as I'm concerned)

So, am I right or wrong.... what am I missing?

Silent Running

irishgrover wrote: »

right Folks, especially though who have moved on from their Ioniqs. Please critique my brain here as I'm about to do something I hope I won't regret... which is as follows..

1. Sell my Ioniq
2. Buy a 202 eSoul
3. Pay slightly over €11k for the privilege

My thought process is as follows

REASON FOR GETTING RID OF IONIQ
a. Depreciation will start to hit the Ioniq big time pretty quickly, especially because of the addition of newer cheaper, bigger cars.
b. I've had the car 3 years - time for change
c. I'll be doing more cross country driving and want to decrease charging stops.

REASON FOR CHOOSING ESOUL
a. Big battery - range almost as good as Kona / eNiro - price is less
b. Extremely good specs - better than Kona or eNiro. specifically electric seats/lumbar and harman kardon audio etc etc
c. ID3 Life spec is not good enough
d. can't afford a better spec id3 or id4, tesla 3 etc (and a 6 year old Model S is too much risk)
e. Can't think of any other good alternatives (big range being important)

The only significant Con's are:
a.) my wife thinks it's ugly but will still drive it
b.) One of my daughters thinks its so ****ing ugly that she can't believe that this is not an April fools joke and says that she will not go anywhere in it (mixed blessing as far as I'm concerned)

So, am I right or wrong.... what am I missing?

I'd do it. For me it's always been about range. The Soul is well kitted out, definitely more stuff than the e-Niro.

ELM327

The esoul would be my pick of the "triplets" .

Obviously I'm biased but I'd suggest the car to go to from an Ioniq is a used S.

irishgrover

ELM327 wrote: »

The esoul would be my pick of the "triplets" .

Obviously I'm biased but I'd suggest the car to go to from an Ioniq is a used S.

yes, I'd love to but

a.) would require selling ioniq privately, which is not easy in the current climate
b.) would be a few K more expensive
c.) you be exposed to no warranty concerns