Connecting vent outlet on camper fridge.

shagman

Anyone know how hot the vent outlet of a 3 way camper fridge gets? I'm relocating the fridge on my 79 Chevy and using an automotive radiator hose to connect it to the external vent.

The rad hose is the perfect shape and length for this but does the outlet get hotter than the water outlet of an engine for which the rad hose is designed?

Also are modern 3 way fridges dramatically better than 70s ones or is the tech/design the same.

Venting here

Long time, Shagman.

The exhaust temps are high in the 80°Cs I'd use a flex joint off a diesel heater exhaust, it's a gas pilot light exhaust.

As far as I've seen all 3-way fridges are muck. 10 times less efficient than compressor fridges.
If you're thinking of replacing it, get an electric and 100W of dedicated solar for it.

shagman

Thanks Liam very useful information there.
Yeah not on here very often these days.
My van is more a custom van than a regular camper so most of the time I'm on custom van forums.

Helga c&Cback by shagedemus, on Flickr

helga C&C3 by shagedemus, on Flickr
helga C&C by shagedemus, on Flickr

IMG_2786 by shagedemus, on Flickr

shagman

One thing though, in those diagrams linked the back of the fridge is vented as a panel. On my fridge there is a metal pipe that comes from the rear of the fridge which led directly to a side vent. The distance between them is now greater and requires a link pipe and this is what I was using the radiator hose for. I'll take some pics I think.

Proper ventilation is paramount for those fridges to have a chance of it working almost right. Even with near-perfect actively cooled ventilation, they're too inefficient to work in the high 20°Cs
A temp sensor with an alarm and a remote display will save heartache too.


I halved my gas consumption by addressing the ventilation. Then I further reduced that X10 and made it reliable by jettisoning the 3-way and going with a compressor.

Well wear with that machine...not many will take one down to bare metal and back up. I just rattle can mine every so often...it looks cleaner when it's dirty.

You forgot the close up pic of the see through engine cover for the newbs.
That's the best part!

shagman

shagman wrote: »

One thing though, in those diagrams linked the back of the fridge is vented as a panel. On my fridge there is a metal pipe that comes from the rear of the fridge which led directly to a side vent. The distance between them is now greater and requires a link pipe and this is what I was using the radiator hose for. I'll take some pics I think.

I figured. I'd go with a metal solution, hence the diesel heater exhaust flex pipe suggestion.


Clicky (minus muffler)



A man of your talents could probably manage to roll a copper tube on a bender though.


The exhaust doesn't get hot by standards but I'd be concerned of it hot-spotting a rubber pipe and burning out an elbow, then CO issues.

shagman

Like the look of this one

https://www.thomann.de/ie/marshall_fridge_4.4_black.htm?glp=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0-6ABhDMARIsAFVdQv9QenjghjFCL5x0JBLt7WdY1ra4LtnIVh2nKpPaTzeePU44F5r2ce4aAqbWEALw_wcB

shagman

I presume the camper specific versions have tech that stops tilting and movement being a problem and yer standard under the counter compressor fridge is not suitable. Which is a pity because I'd love that Marshall amp one linked above.

Haha! Class!
Completely fooled me until I saw the energy cert (25Ah per day...very good)

Can I get



with that?

Here's the inverter for it.

Those Xantrex should auto-sleep when the load drops so they're pretty good at waking for a fridge cycle and then hibernating again.
Studer are a good shout too for running mains fridges; huge surge capability, adjustable sleep threshold and unrivalled efficiency.

I'd rather buy a decent inverter, solar and a mains fridge than an unreliable €600 gas fridge and a legacy of spent gas bottles and ruined provisions. It works out the same except solar can power more than just a fridge.
Nothing ruins yer day like melted ice-cream, warm beer and no coffee.

shagman

shagman wrote: »

I presume the camper specific versions have tech that stops tilting and movement being a problem and yer standard under the counter compressor fridge is not suitable. Which is a pity because I'd love that Marshall amp one linked above.

Every catering van I've ever seen is rocking a mains fridge.


There's no tilting mechanism in the 12v jobs just a slightly more robust compressor housing, particularly at the plumbing inlets and outlets.
The refrigerant relies on equalisation by law of averages...ie..don't park on a steep gradient or it won't work (thermosyphon). By steep I mean when you open the door and all the contents roll out.

...but you can drive up a hill as long as you drive down thuther side soon after it all works out.


I've no problem putting mains fridges on vessels. They're often more efficient even when combined with the inverter than a 12/24v as the camper versions haven't been revised in terms of efficiency in over a decade.


Any fridge you get you can improve the performance a lot with ventilation of the evaporator condenser (if you can access it) and external insulation.

aimsir_te

This issue sounds like it might be similar to what I am sealing with (and posted about today). did you end up going with the diesel heater exhaust flex pipe?