Front derailleur stopped working

billyhead

Have a relatively new Hybrid bike and suddenly the front derailleur won't work when I change gears in that it won't even move to change the chain to the smaller rings. Would all the grit and salt on the road affected it? Would anyone know possible solutions I could try than having to bring it back to the shop.

lissard

This happened me a couple of years ago - the front deraileur stoped shifting while commuting to work. Brought it into a bike shop, the mechanic gave a couple of squirts of Muc-Off on my front mech and it all started working again. Washing the bike is really important at this time of year.

magicbastarder

yes, salt will play havoc with the cables if they're exposed.

8valve

clean in and around the front derailleur with GT-85 (or similar) and an old toothbrush.

Move the derailleur by hand and flush it out with more lube spray.

Repeat every few weeks if crud/dirt is building up again.

Wishbone Ash

The purists won't like this but pouring a some boiling water over it and then relubing should do the trick.

crosstownk

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

The purists won't like this but pouring a some boiling water over it and then relubing should do the trick.

They'll hate this so.......

At the moment my front mech is suffering from dirt, crap and grime. Overnight it seems to seize and refuses to drop to the small ring the following day. So my temporary solution, until I find time/enthusiasm to clean the bike, is to select the small ring before I start and use my heel to 'encourage' it to shift. Works a treat as a temporary solution Every time I do this I make a mental note to clean the bike but then I forget.

billyhead

Thanks for all the comments folks. Will I have to remove the derailleur to clean it or can I leave it on. In relation to the boiling water I presume I am to pour boiled kettle water over it or should I let the water cool for a few minutes in case it's too hot?

magicbastarder

i would say even warm water would help; it's not a trick i've heard of before, but the goal would be to flush out general gunk, warmer water would be better at dissolving soluble substances such as salt, and also liquefying oil and grease, the warmer, the more pronounced the effect.

steamsey

As people say, give it a good clean. No need to remove from bike at all. Get chain lube or TF2 lube spray and lube the spring on the derailleur and any exposed shifter cable near it. Press shifter, does derailleur even try to move? If so, keep at it til it frees. If not, replace shifter cable. Can be easily done with bit of YouTube if you don't know how.

billyhead

Sorry to bother you folks but I haven't degreased and lubed the derailleur yet but I was wondering if there is no tension in the gear cable when I change the shifter is that a sign the shifter cable is knackered and needs replacing?

RebelButtMunch

billyhead wrote: »

Sorry to bother you folks but I haven't degreased and lubed the derailleur yet but I was wondering if there is no tension in the gear cable when I change the shifter is that a sign the shifter cable is knackered and needs replacing?

Likely the tension has gone because the derailleur isn't moving to adjust and take up the slack. Give it a good clean and try to move it while cleaning

8valve

billyhead wrote: »

Sorry to bother you folks but I haven't degreased and lubed the derailleur yet but I was wondering if there is no tension in the gear cable when I change the shifter is that a sign the shifter cable is knackered and needs replacing?

Take up any slack in the cable, using the barrel adjuster on your handlebar gearshifter; this should take up any excess slack in the cable and allow the derailleur to move instantly when you push on the shifter.

magicbastarder

based on the first post, it's stuck on the big ring, so curious that there's slack there?

triggermortis

magicbastarder wrote: »

based on the first post, it's stuck on the big ring, so curious that there's slack there?

+1

If the chain is on the big ring, the cable should be under tension (if it's Shimano - not sure about others)

Type 17

If the FD is stuck on the big ring, and the shifter was released to shift down, there would be a lot of cable slack?

crosstownk

EDIT: Never mind; blonde moment

magicbastarder

what type 17 said makes sense - dropping to the small ring basically feeds cable to the FD to allow the shift. if the FD doesn't shift, there's nothing to take up the cable feed, i.e. nothing to take up that slack.

Type 17

That’s the point - the FD is stuck in the big ring position (seized with crud), so if you release the cable to shift down, and the FD doesn’t move, the cable will be fully slack, until you push the FD inwards by hand.

Edit: I was typing slowly whilst watching tv

billyhead

Folks

I gave the FD a full degrease and lube and no joy so I left it in with the lbs and they said the cable snapped. Strange as I only got the bike in November and have always rode in the big ring in the front. The cable is one of those internal routed cables.

magicbastarder

are they treating it as a warranty issue?

billyhead

magicbastarder wrote: »

are they treating it as a warranty issue?

I didn't know about an 8 week check up which they said I was allowed to have until they mentioned it to me yesterday (I wasn't told about bringing it back after 8 weeks when I picked up the new bike in November) so I'm hoping when I am told to collect it that it's covered under that.