How To Replace A Radiator

pinkfloydian

I have an oil-fired central heating system.

My kitchen and dining room are side-by-side (see attached drawing).

In the mornings, both rooms are cold. I am wondering what is the best way to manage this problem. There is no radiator in the kitchen, but 2 in the dining room, one of which has a radiator cabinet (see 2 photos attached). I know somebody will say to remove the cabinet, but this is not an option for me.

I am wondering if changing the smaller radiator to a "taller" one would be an option.

Also, can somebody please explain, if I want to change the smaller radiator, how do I know which size to buy (I don't want to change the width between the pipes coming out of the floor). Where is the measurement taken from?

Thanks,
Tommy

Wearb

First of all, are the existing radiators too hot all over to keep you hand on? If not, you need to sort that out before going any further.

There are double and even triple panel radiators which will give greatly increased output (if the pipework to it is sufficient) for the same width and height as the existing radiator.
Have a look here for some more detail.

pinkfloydian

Thanks Wearb

Yes, the rads are hot all over.

The one near the back door, that I am thinking of replacing, cannot be changed from a single panel, as it will effect how far the back door can be opened. That is why I am thinking of keeping the width (so no change to existing plumbing), but increasing the height.

I'm still unclear as to what width I should specify when ordering and need some direction. The measurements in the attached photo are not millimeter precise, but will give an idea so that someone can tell me what to order.

theteal

Having a quick look on screwfix, the standard widths are 400/500/600mm so that leaves you a bit in a bit of a fix with your 540mm radiator. I have similar issues in my house with the old imperial measured radiators. I would get a 500mm rad and you can get longer fixings to make up the 40mm difference - you cut to size, simple enough job.

pinkfloydian

Thanks theteal, but what exactly is the 400/500/600 measuring?

I need to understand this, so that I can order.

Tommy

Wearb

You might have to go with a rad 500mm wide, but ring around some of the merchants with the measurement that you have. Tell them it's 540mm long. There are spacers readily available to extend the radiators.

pinkfloydian

Thanks guys.

Now all I need is feedback as to whether getting a taller single-panel, is a wise idea and will help with my problem.

Tommy

Wearb

pinkfloydian wrote: »

Thanks guys.

Now all I need is feedback as to whether getting a taller single-panel, is a wise idea and will help with my problem.

Tommy

How long has the heating been on for in the mornings, when you say its cold?
What is your room thermostat set to?
What is your boiler thermostat set to?

pinkfloydian

Wearb wrote: »

How long has the heating been on for in the mornings, when you say its cold?
What is your room thermostat set to?
What is your boiler thermostat set to?

The heating would have been on for 2 hours

There is only a single control for the whole house (in the hall) and it is set to 22°

Boiler Thermostat (see photo)

theteal

pinkfloydian wrote: »

Thanks guys.

Now all I need is feedback as to whether getting a taller single-panel, is a wise idea and will help with my problem.

Tommy

Do the old rads even have the convection wavey bit on the back?
You can get taller, you can also get dual-panel.

I know when I was looking into this it was all about calculating the BTUs (British Thermal Units iirc, I'm sure there's an Irish equivalent) needed and what the boiler was rated for i.e. no point having a massive triple panel rad if it ends up overloading the central heating system.

My rads were really old, in the end I actually got smaller single panel with convection thingy models and they're so much better than the old ones.

Wearb

pinkfloydian wrote: »

The heating would have been on for 2 hours

There is only a single control for the whole house (in the hall) and it is set to 22°

Boiler Thermostat (see photo)

Your boiler stat is too low. Move it to half way, but be arawe that you domestic hot water may now be very hot, depending on your plumbing.



btw Heatmerchants used to have some odd sized radiators.

pinkfloydian

Thanks for that advice Wearb.

It has caused another issue that I don't understand and I would appreciate your further support.

Attached is a photograph of the boiler thermostat (I believe).

The first photo shows the "OFF" position as far as I understand

However, when I turn the control FULLY clockwise (to the fully "ON" position), it does not appear to turn as fully as the indicator on the dial would suggest.

Have I got a problem? If not, how far should I turn up the dial (given the issue described above)?

Tommy

pinkfloydian

theteal wrote: »

Do the old rads even have the convection wavey bit on the back?
You can get taller, you can also get dual-panel.

I know when I was looking into this it was all about calculating the BTUs (British Thermal Units iirc, I'm sure there's an Irish equivalent) needed and what the boiler was rated for i.e. no point having a massive triple panel rad if it ends up overloading the central heating system.

My rads were really old, in the end I actually got smaller single panel with convection thingy models and they're so much better than the old ones.

Yes - they have the fins at the back

Wearb

How far will it go anticlockwise?

pinkfloydian

Wearb wrote: »

How far will it go anticlockwise?

Hi Wearb,

as per the photo in my last post.

Wearb

pinkfloydian wrote: »

Hi Wearb,

as per the photo in my last post.

I see that now. So it only goes about 90 deg


That I don't understand, however, I'd try the mid position.





However if your featured rads are getting too hot to hold you hand on, then that's not really a problem, though it's a subjective thing. My wife can put her hands in hotter water than I can.

pinkfloydian

:D Thanks