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Window openings

  • 14-02-2021 3:02am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 277 ✭✭


    My double glazed windows were fitted well over 20 years ago..They are a metal frame which are probably about 1.5 " thick (deep)
    The walls are two 4" walls with I think 3" gap between . The insulation usis the white polystyrene type...
    I'm just wondering would the gap ie the 3" have been filled in before the windows were fitted of what was the practice back then.
    I notice with recent wind there are a lot of draught s around the windows and the window boards a are freezing cold...
    I interested to know what's in there...
    Thanks for any info.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Removing the window board will give you a good idea


  • Registered Users Posts: 277 ✭✭me4many


    muffler wrote: »
    Removing the window board will give you a good idea
    It certainly would but a rather extreme measure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    me4many wrote: »
    It certainly would but a rather extreme measure.
    It is but you will see everything then. Alternatively remove a small bit of the plaster at the side which will show if the cavity has been closed.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,111 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    me4many wrote: »
    It certainly would but a rather extreme measure.

    No offence. But unless you have x-ray vision how do you intend to find the answer...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    At best there might be a timber batten to close the cavity or expanded foam. Air tightness not a priority back then. Would sealing up around the window frame inside and outside help and around internal cill ? Plaster can shrink away from window frame too over time which can leave a slight gap.
    Otherwise you are into more invasive opening up or thermal imaging / leakage testing.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 277 ✭✭me4many


    listermint wrote: »
    No offence. But unless you have x-ray vision how do you intend to find the answer...
    No offence taken at all..
    The question was really more about what was the practice at the time viz 20 plus years ago.. People on here might have been window installers or maybe worked on sites etc.
    Tks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,321 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    me4many wrote: »
    No offence taken at all..
    The question was really more about what was the practice at the time viz 20 plus years ago.. People on here might have been window installers or maybe worked on sites etc.
    Tks.
    There is no way of knowing. On my travels over the years I have seen the cavity closed with blocks, bricks, strips of Aeroboard etc and wait for it ... newspapers :eek:

    One of the more common methods I seen was an L shapped block being used which was a fairly standard method but as I said you could expect to find anything in there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,856 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Tbh, whatever is in there has no impact on what you are feeling wrt air leakage at the window frame to wall junction.

    You have two options working from the inside if not replacing your windows;

    1. Remove the reveal plaster and window board. Using proprietary air tight mastics, tapes and/or membrane, seal the frame to the masonry and make good the reveals and window board to hide all the air tight materials. Decorate and job done.

    2. Clean out the gap between frame and wall/window board and fill with a good quality flexible decorators caulk. The issue with this is that it's not permanent and will probably need to be revisited every other year because of differential movement of the different materials. Also don't forget about underneath the window boards.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭Doop


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    2. Clean out the gap between frame and wall/window board and fill with a good quality flexible decorators caulk. The issue with this is that it's not permanent and will probably need to be revisited every other year because of differential movement of the different materials. Also don't forget about underneath the window boards.

    I was looking at doing something similar myself shortly... would caulk or silicone be the way to go? or much of a muchness?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,856 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Silicone wont take paint, caulk will.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3 Gingerino


    Yeah, it is better to remove the window board and check out


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