Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Covered Pergola

2»

Comments

  • Posts: 596 [Deleted User]


    skilachi wrote: »
    Are they 4x4 posts or 6x6.?

    The ones in Fred's pic earlier are 6x6


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,141 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    We're way too overlooked for that to happen ;):p

    Hey I'm not judging but some folks are exhibitionists :P

    Might be where double wall roof comes in , lol


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Looks great, nice work on the garden too.
    You should be able to get 1 sheet of 3050mm x 2050mm of clear poly - I used 6mm for mine.
    (Or of course cut to your exact sizes) Try Print / Plastic Solutions in Dublin too.
    Only thing to consider is how to get the thing up into place !
    I assume you will be drilling through poly and into existing timber supports to secure.
    Is there a slope on existing rafters ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 522 ✭✭✭Bargain_Hound


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Looks great, nice work on the garden too.
    You should be able to get 1 sheet of 3050mm x 2050mm of clear poly - I used 6mm for mine.
    (Or of course cut to your exact sizes) Try Print / Plastic Solutions in Dublin too.
    Only thing to consider is how to get the thing up into place !
    I assume you will be drilling through poly and into existing timber supports to secure.
    Is there a slope on existing rafters ?

    Thanks, Summer 2020 project. Ready for 2021. Just waiting for grass to grow.

    Yeah I was looking at the 3050mm x 2050mm sheet and was going to request them to cut to exact size.

    Regarding getting it up and securing, good question. That is going to be a problem getting into the center to secure fixings, and access on one side is also restricted. Had thought about looking for a strong adhesive and securing where I could access but I'm not sure I'd sleep at night if the wind was blowing. Or alternatively, split the whole thing into 2 sheets so I can secure each one separately and bridge them over an existing timber so you wouldn't see the join.

    I've calculated a slight fall too, so rain water should run off towards the end.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭kerryjack


    Great tread guys I am planning on doing something similar covering in a decking 16 foot by 12 foot coming off the back wall, my plan is to use steel 4 by 4 box iron up rights and box them in with 4 by 1 timber afterwards and bury them 2 foot in to ground in concrete and use 6 by 2 allround top and joists and put 6 mm clear glaze sheets on top and put 2 by 1 treated lats on top to secure them down, 6 by 4 sheets of clear glaze are 80 quid each and I will need 6 any one get the sheeting any cheaper, can be fairly wendy at times so need to be fairly secure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    The spacings of the timbers will determine the thickness and the suppliers can advise.
    Mine are at 600m ctrs. You can walk / kneel on the poly but put down ply that will bridge the joists and maybe a blanket to protect poly.
    It should come with a protective vinyl both sides. Be sure to include UV protection.
    Getting in 2 pieces probably the way to go, especially if not impacting on the price.
    Regular ss cladding screws is the way to go, do not rely on any form of adhesive.
    Button type fixings are recommended for the multiwall poly but not keen on them myself.
    You will need to be pre-drill the poly and oversize hole to allow for movement.
    Get a sample off them so you can experiment with the drilling.
    The joint between sheets over the timber might be best done with a glazing cap.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Thanks to everyone for their advice and guidance on this thread.

    Hope it’s ok to jump on to get some advice on something similar.

    I’m looking to build a free standing covered pergola away from the house but I want it to be quite large. On one side I have an idea for it to be my tool shed. But I’m thinking of doing it in steel.

    I’d also love it to be a lean-to style roof.

    Has anyone any views or insights.

    What kinda steel? How do you join the steel? How to affix the roof? Etc.

    Thanks all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    karlitob wrote: »
    Thanks to everyone for their advice and guidance on this thread.

    Hope it’s ok to jump on to get some advice on something similar.

    I’m looking to build a free standing covered pergola away from the house but I want it to be quite large. On one side I have an idea for it to be my tool shed. But I’m thinking of doing it in steel.

    I’d also love it to be a lean-to style roof.

    Has anyone any views or insights.

    What kinda steel? How do you join the steel? How to affix the roof? Etc.

    Thanks all.


    Are you talking about steel posts? And what do you mean about a lean-to style?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,594 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Are you talking about steel posts? And what do you mean about a lean-to style?

    Steel posts and steel beam across for a greater width without obscuring the view.

    Lean-to style. Sorry - taller at the front than the back.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭kerryjack


    Priced a few bits today for my project, 16 foot by 12 foot covered in Decking which I hope to tackle Easter weekend
    30 16 foot decking boards 350
    20 6×2 timber 260
    4 10 foot steel 4×4 uprights 200
    8 sheets of 6 foot × 4 foot clear glaze 3 mm at 80 a sheet 640
    The sheets of pvc are the most expensive part of job I must research is there a cheaper option.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 43,028 ✭✭✭✭SEPT 23 1989


    I wouldn’t go any less than 5mm

    And I would use Opal rather than clear

    Looks better and easier to keep clean


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    kerryjack wrote: »
    Priced a few bits today for my project, 16 foot by 12 foot covered in Decking which I hope to tackle Easter weekend
    30 16 foot decking boards 350
    20 6×2 timber 260
    4 10 foot steel 4×4 uprights 200
    8 sheets of 6 foot × 4 foot clear glaze 3 mm at 80 a sheet 640
    The sheets of pvc are the most expensive part of job I must research is there a cheaper option.

    3mm sounds a bit thin.
    What centres are your rafters at ?
    Check with supplier for suitable thickness dictated by rafter centres. Snow loads etc need to be considered.
    You say pvc, do you mean flat solid polycarbonate or perspex or ?
    Make sure they are UV rated to prevent discolouring from sun and potential to breakdown.
    I bought solid before from Print Solutions Dublin and 365 Plastics Ashbourne also supply. I think Gold Star Plastics are another supplier mentioned on a similar thread.
    How are you joining / sealing sheets ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭kerryjack


    DIY KING wrote: »
    3mm sounds a bit thin.
    What centres are your rafters at ?
    Check with supplier for suitable thickness dictated by rafter centres. Snow loads etc need to be considered.
    You say pvc, do you mean flat solid polycarbonate or perspex or ?
    Make sure they are UV rated to prevent discolouring from sun and potential to breakdown.
    I bought solid before from Print Solutions Dublin and 365 Plastics Ashbourne also supply. I think Gold Star Plastics are another supplier mentioned on a similar thread.
    How are you joining / sealing sheets ?
    Thanks for that had a look at 365 plastics there they have 6 mm twined wall sheets there that might do the job as well and seem to come in large sizes so could build it to size of sheets. We get very little snow down here by the sea so not that worried about weight bearing but we do get strong winds so I am going to have to get sheets fairly well secured down, was thinking of using treated lats of 2/1 on top of sheets and screw them down and but some sealer/adhesive on as well, not too sure on that yet open to ideas on this one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,166 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    kerryjack wrote: »
    The sheets of pvc are the most expensive part of job I must research is there a cheaper option.

    Glass, probably. :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    Have seen the batten detail done on photos alright and is certainly the cheapest I'd say. If batten rots over time I guess easy to replace. Alumimium glazing caps probably best with rubber gaskets but cost a fair bit more.
    Lots of debate re pros and cons of multiwall. Both ends need to be properly sealed with tape, one a breather tape. Personally not keen on visual look of it and how it weathers hence why we went with solid clear, similar look to glass.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭kerryjack


    DIY KING wrote: »
    Have seen the batten detail done on photos alright and is certainly the cheapest I'd say. If batten rots over time I guess easy to replace. Alumimium glazing caps probably best with rubber gaskets but cost a fair bit more.
    Lots of debate re pros and cons of multiwall. Both ends need to be properly sealed with tape, one a breather tape. Personally not keen on visual look of it and how it weathers hence why we went with solid clear, similar look to glass.
    I think I will go with 6mm multiwall, The sheets are larger and I will only need 3 sheets and can get them cut to size 4.8 meters long, will use the rubbers and the aluminium glazing strips to join sheets together and hold them down. TBH it's all about the practicality and durability to wind and rain than looks down here, as I am in a one off house in a fairly exposed area and it won't be over looked by any naigbours. Thanks again for ye help and I am looking forward to getting stuck in to this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,052 ✭✭✭Cerco


    One benefit of all that wind and rain is that the roof will be kept really clean with little effort.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,581 ✭✭✭kerryjack


    Cerco wrote: »
    One benefit of all that wind and rain is that the roof will be kept really clean with little effort.
    The next question maybe is do we but gutters on or do we let it fall naturally off roof as a kind of water feature, don't want rain falling in on my new decking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 556 ✭✭✭Fine Cheers


    kerryjack wrote: »
    The next question maybe is do we but gutters on or do we let it fall naturally off roof as a kind of water feature, don't want rain falling in on my new decking.

    Would run off be into grass ? Don't underestimate impact of substantial rain fall ie splashing, saturating ground, potential blow back into decking etc. You could design in such a way that you can always retro fit one if necessary. A small french drain directly below would help, even in a decorative stone or pebble.


  • Posts: 596 [Deleted User]


    So, how do we stop all these new pergola roofs from turning into sails in the next storm? Would you lash it down?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    So, how do we stop all these new pergola roofs from turning into sails in the next storm? Would you lash it down?

    Roof sheets are screwed into the rafters, rafters nailed/screwed in to wall plate and cross beam, wall plate bolted to wall, cross beam bolted into the vertical posts, posts clamped and screwed into shoes, shoes bolted to cement foundation.

    I'd be very confident that they ain't going anywhere.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Roof sheets are screwed into the rafters, rafters nailed/screwed in to wall plate and cross beam, wall plate bolted to wall, cross beam bolted into the vertical posts, posts clamped and screwed into shoes, shoes bolted to cement foundation.

    I'd be very confident that they ain't going anywhere.

    Can I ask where you got the post shoes and the price please?


  • Registered Users Posts: 522 ✭✭✭Bargain_Hound


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Can I ask where you got the post shoes and the price please?

    They can be picked up in 3" and 4" forms usually.
    Most building providers sell them.

    For example:
    3"
    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/Metal-Post-Fixing-75mm-Bolt-Down-Sidebolt-Galvanised.html?name=post&type=simple

    4"
    https://www.goodwins.ie/products/metal-post-fixing-100mm-bolt-down-sidebolt-galvanised.html?name=post+fixing&type=simple

    I used 4 of these anchor bolted down into concrete. They ain't going anywhere :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Can I ask where you got the post shoes and the price please?

    Got them from timber industries in Rathdrum. They're 150mm and they were €16 each.


  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭djo789


    Got this at my local builders providers outside Galway used for farm gateposts this is painted by myself beforehand it was a manky bit of steel cost around €10


Advertisement