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Electric Oven Plug or No Plug

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    I think there is potential to invite hassle when making a warranty claim if you have cut off a moulded plug. Particularly if the issue is intermittent or disputed in any way.

    I would agree that taking such action in itself shouldn’t have any bearing on a consumers statutory rights. But it may be questioned by an awkward supplier and you may need to invest considerably more effort than you would otherwise to get the thing resolved.

    On balance, personally I think I would favour spur feeding trailing socket - is that still permitted? (Particularly in the case of washing machines / tumble driers.)

    Would you still see applicances sold in Ireland with a two pin plug?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    Lenar3556 wrote: »
    I think there is potential to invite hassle when making a warranty claim if you have cut off a moulded plug. Particularly if the issue is intermittent or disputed in any way.

    I would agree that taking such action in itself shouldn’t have any bearing on a consumers statutory rights. But it may be questioned by an awkward supplier and you may need to invest considerably more effort than you would otherwise to get the thing resolved.

    On balance, personally I think I would favour spur feeding trailing socket - is that still permitted? (Particularly in the case of washing machines / tumble driers.)

    Would you still see applicances sold in Ireland with a two pin plug?


    Would be mostly 20amp radials so no fused spur there ,just an isolator and socket


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Henry... wrote: »
    Would be mostly 20amp radials so no fused spur there ,just an isolator and socket

    And trailing rather than a fixed socket would be ok?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    Lenar3556 wrote: »
    And trailing rather than a fixed socket would be ok?

    Never tried that one , would be more DIY option imo


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    Try to mount the socket and plug to one side so it's accessible is they way I did them


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Henry... wrote: »
    Never tried that one , would be more DIY option imo

    I used to see a single trailing socket wired from the isolator and allowed rest under the kick board - it provided good flexibility and length when fitting and removing applicances.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    2011 wrote: »
    I think there is an allowance for IT equipment in limited circumstances, I don't believe there is anything to cover off the situation you are describing.


    There's a couple of rules in et101 anyway

    IT equipment obviously preferable not to have Rcd in a lot of cases, may require non standard sockets if accessible and a warning notice

    The other 1 is isolation of fixed equipment but they reference motors and fluorescents so I don't think it's intended for large appliances

    You might be able to quote that in the context of an inaccessible oven socket, doubt it's applicable though


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    They're coming in for the whole domestic board so wont make much difference long term anyway


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,596 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Henry... wrote: »
    There's a couple of rules in et101 anyway

    As I am sure you know ET101 no longer applies.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    2011 wrote: »
    As I am sure you know ET101 no longer applies.

    Hardly be much change though there

    They're standard sort of rules for when you don't need an rcd


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  • Registered Users Posts: 383 ✭✭wex96


    back to your original post..
    if there is a plug on it or manual states 13a fuse you nees an FCU(fused connection unit) also known as a fused spur and a back box. most single oven 2.99kw and under require a fuse.
    58938_P&$prodImageMedium$
    fyi
    I used to be an installer for currys


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Henry...


    wex96 wrote: »
    back to your original post..
    if there is a plug on it or manual states 13a fuse you nees an FCU(fused connection unit) also known as a fused spur and a back box. most single oven 2.99kw and under require a fuse.
    58938_P&$prodImageMedium$
    fyi
    I used to be an installer for currys

    If there is no plug on it and manual states 13amp fuse you need the fcu

    Do they go as high as 3kw ovens on a 13anp fuse, though it was more like 2.5

    Could be out there


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,596 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Henry... wrote: »
    Hardly be much change though there

    They're standard sort of rules for when you don't need an rcd

    I wouldn’t be so sure.
    There are significant changes between ET101 and IS10101.
    I will take a look when I get a chance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 383 ✭✭wex96


    Henry... wrote: »
    If there is no plug on it and manual states 13amp fuse you need the fcu

    Do they go as high as 3kw ovens on a 13anp fuse, though it was more like 2.5

    Could be out there
    Mostly 2.99kw or less, have seen Hisense above 3kw needing fcu


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    It’s getting more common to see them above 3KW with rapid heating and high temperature cleaning cycles.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I wouldn’t use an appliance like that with a Irish 13amp fused plug. It should be hardwired to an isolator.

    There are significant differences between CEE 7/X (Schuko) continental plugs and Irish / British ones (BS1363)

    1. They are 16 amp rather than 13 amp
    2. They have a recessed design (socket face is stepped back into the faceplate) This prevents finger contact as you’re inserting the plug, and that allows for unsheathed pins and much bigger contact surface areas. In contrast, Irish / U.K. plugs only make contact at the pin tips as there’s a risk to fingers otherwise.
    3. The fuse carrier assembly in Irish / British plugs is often just a bent spring. If the plug isn’t assembled very accurately when wired, the fuse can make poor contact and get hot. Schuko is simpler, and has no fuse.

    Thats why you can safely use a Schuko (or French) plug & socket with heavier appliances much more reliably. They’re genuinely much more robust as a connector.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    If it was suitable for use with a plug top it would be supplied with a moulded plug fitted as this is a legal requirement for the UK market which it would also be aimed at.

    Also a plug top should not be fitted with 2.5mm^2 flex - the maximum permitted by standards is 1.5mm^2 - anything larger is beyond the design parameters.



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