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GU10 Bulb Advice

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  • 04-09-2022 11:23am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,791 ✭✭✭


    Our house has GU10 bulbs in kitchen, hallway, landing and bathrooms for lighting. They've been there around 9-10 years and finally one of the bathroom ones (black one in images below) went. Bulb says GU10 3000K 3W on it. The bathroom ones sit behind a fixture (see image where I'm holding it) which I assume is to protect from moisture. I have a spare bulb from non-bathroom (the silver one) which is a GU10 3000K 4.5W. I was thinking this should be fine to use as a replacement? But then I see a comment on side of bulb saying shouldn't be used for an enclosed recessed fixture? Are there different categories of GU10 and my 4.5W one needs more airflow or something? These two aren't even identically shaped which would potentially make clipping it in slightly trickier. I thought LED bulbs generated so much less heat that this wouldn't be an issue? Anyway looking for any advice (and to learn a bit!) please on whether that other bulb is safe to use?

    Thanks! :)




Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,171 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    That's a Robus Robin shower rated GU10 fixture. I have loads of them here.

    I also found the same issue with the LED lamps - when correctly assembled (as per Robus) the LED bulb is standing back 2.5cm's from the glass face of the downlighter and it causes some loss of light as well as a tighter beam angle. I found it also won't take some bulbs in the sharp fingers.

    My solution is only valid with an LED bulb - don't use this with a halogen bulb due to the risk of overheating:

    Bend back the fingers and install a bulb into the body of the fixture.

    Bend the fingers back again and then cable-tie the bulb into the fixture. Clip off the excess plastic.

    I have about 20 of these completed as described and I have not had any LED failures in 4 years (Philips LED 4W bulbs). LED's run cooler and well designed types won't overheat unless they are completely surrounded with insulation, etc.



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