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Unusual pressure safety valve installation

  • 30-09-2022 9:51am
    #1
    Administrators Posts: 398 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭


    This discussion was created from comments split from: **The wtf plumbing thread**.
    MOD NOTE. I moved this to a new thread. It has become more than just a wtf post.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,674 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Any thoughts on the PRV plumbing here

    It goes up into the attic and bends over the Cold water tank

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,865 ✭✭✭✭Andy From Sligo


    Well i suppose if it works its neater to have all that expanded water from the PRV exit into the tank in the attic rather than all out into the hot press.

    Actually though, come to think of it when / if that PRV does open, all that yucky black central heating dirty water will go into the clean water of the header tank in the attic - so yeah, not a good idea.

    they would better to put a small header tank next to the large header tank even though the CH is of sealed type and put a overflow pipe leading to outside - or even just extend that overflow pipe from the PRV thats bending over the header tank and bring it to the outside under the eaves so that if PRV ever does open it can just exit outside the house



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    That looks like the prv from a sealed dhw cylinder so no yucky heating water, the only trouble with it is you won't know when it's passing till the tank in the attic starts overflowing, if they had no other option they should have fitted a tun dish so you could at least see when it's passing.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    In that particular scenario a tundish wouldn’t work.

    what they did was a total diy job. I’m surprised they didn’t blank it off.

    the tank upstairs won’t overflow either as mentioned about as any water released from the prv will be replaced. It’s just circulating.

    solution: find out why the prv is passing water. Pipe it outside in copper.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,792 ✭✭✭✭Charlie19


    It be interesting to see the rest of that install.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Stupid me of course it would just circulate,

    but the tun dish would at least make it obvious it's passing no?

    Obviously it's not the correct way to install regardless.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,852 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    I’m all for using a tundish but in this case how would it work if the pipework was rising up higher? All the water would overflow out of the tundish



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,709 ✭✭✭wiz569


    Yep that's another D'oh moment, sorry m8.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,957 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Prv quite often only pass a small amount of water regularly. In this case you will have the water standing in the pipe, eventually drying/congealing and blocking the pipe.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,420 ✭✭✭dathi


    i took this from joules installation guide.

    When operating normally water will not be discharged. Water discharge from the two safety valves will only occur under fault conditions. The tundish should be vertical, located in the same space as the unvented hot water storage system and be fitted as close as possible, and lower than the valve, with no more than 600mm between the safety device outlet e.g. the temperature relief valve and the tundish. The position of the tundish must be that when installed it is visible to the occupants of the premises. When positioning the tundish, the drain valves and motorised valve ensure that these items are positioned away from any electrical devices. The discharge pipe (D2) coming from the tundish should terminate in a safe place where there is no risk to persons in the vicinity of the discharge, be of metal and: • Be at least one pipe size larger than the nominal outlet size of the safety device unless its total equivalent hydraulic resistance exceeds that of a straight pipe 9m long, i.e. discharge pipes between 9m and 18m equivalent resistance length should be at least two sizes larger than the nominal outlet size of the safety device, between 18 and 27m at least 3 sizes larger, and so on



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