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Advice on wiring frost stat

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  • 10-12-2022 2:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭


    I have a heat lamp on a frost stat in my pump house. When I checked it this morning the lamp wasn't on - by fiddling with the stat I could get it to come on, but it wasn't reliable.

    So I decided to swap the stat. I just got a new one and am having difficulty connecting it. There are three terminals and a diagram (attached). I connected the live from the mains into 1, the live to the lamp into 3 and both the neutrals into 2, but when I tested it, the lamp was on full time. I was testing in the kitchen, and I set the stat to -5C (it ain't that cold in the kitchen). I swapped the two lives, but same result.

    What am I doing wrong?





Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,289 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    The fact that you haven't blown a fuse or tripped a mcb indicates a bigger problem. Should be no neutrals connected to that stat.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    No neutral connection on that

    Heat I think is the connection for that if I'm remembering correctly

    You're breaking on temperature rise , when the dial is turned up the lamp should come on

    -5 would be too low think it's up around + 2-3 you want it



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    Live in …….1

    live out…….3


    dont connect neutral into stat(use a separate connector)



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    U sure ?

    Thought it was 1 and 2 I could be wrong though



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Frost stat would operate the same as a room stat

    When temperature drops it would come on so it's heat

    Cool would make on temperature rise as in refrigeration



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  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    Thanks lads. Now you've explained it I can see that "M" block represents the lamp and so the N goes to it & not to the stat. I was further confused as the old stat had neutral connected together into a single terminal

    Doh!



  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    Update:


    Now I have taken out the neutral and connected only the lives. Mains into 1, lamp into 2 and the lamp doesn't come on at all, no matter what temp I set the stat to come on at (tested outside where it is ~ 1C and has the stat set to 5C). Connect lamp to 3 and the lamp is on all the time and adjusting the stat dial does not turn it off.

    So have I blown something within the stat when I connected in neutral?



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,746 ✭✭✭meercat


    Yes. Theres a possibility you have welded the contacts together with the way it was originally connected. You should also check if a fuse or trip switch has tripped



  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    I haven't tripped anything on the fuseboard or blown the fuse in the plug for the light, as it works when I bypass the stat. For now I have it on all the time and will fit a new stat on Monday

    thanks for all the advice



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    You probably didn't damage the stat if as u say the lamp was on when u wired in the neutrals



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  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    I think you're right. I have now put the lamp back without a stat.

    I think I had just had it inside too long, so it had warmed up and didn't have time to cool down. Having left it outside for 1/2 hour, and testing with a multimeter, it now seems to be switching as I turn the dial and swapping the connection between 2 & 3 . I'll fit it tomorrow - too dark to do it now.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,289 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    What is the range on the stat?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    -5 to +10



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Turning up the dial should bring on the lamp



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,289 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    That's probably what saved your stat when you first wired it.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Looks like he got away with it alright

    Some dodgy wiring that L and N into the stat 😁



  • Registered Users Posts: 209 ✭✭Bruthal.


    You should have the lamp connected to 2 to bring lamp on when temp drops to the set point of stat.

    It will take a decent while to respond to a sudden temp change such as bringing it from warm area to a cold area to test.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    Not the easiest to remember

    Refrigeration is make on rise

    Heating is break on rise

    Generally the way I try to remember it



  • Registered Users Posts: 209 ✭✭Bruthal.


    Yea I was just going by the stat behaviour according to the op myself.



  • Registered Users Posts: 462 ✭✭tombrown


    Yep - I realise that now, I had the lives connected so that warm temp would switch the lamp on, and then tested it while it hadn't cooled down, so the neutral (connected to the other terminal) never came into play.

    Sheer luck that my ineptitude saved me from my ineptitude :)

    Its all fitted and working now - many thanks for all the advice


    Anyway - any idea why the neutrals were connected to a terminal in the old stat? Doesn't matter now, but that threw me

    Post edited by tombrown on


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,289 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Some stats (and its a good idea) have little resisters that act as a sort of heater to to moderate sudden temperature swings. This needs a neutral connection. That isn't really necessary for a frost stat.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,514 ✭✭✭John.G




  • Registered Users Posts: 4,957 ✭✭✭kirk.


    You mean a back boiler pump ? That's make on rise

    That's not a heating stat if you think about it , you're effectively cooling by pumping hot water away from the boiler



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