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Type of stop cock key

  • 21-12-2022 2:00am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 379 ✭✭


    Could anybody advise the type of stop cock key I would need for the stop cock below. All the keys I have come across are square whereas my stopcock seems to be rectangular.

    The 13mm square key I had didn’t fit over it.





Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,482 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    If you had an open ended spanner 13 mm open end to check size fits as a guess and is it massive as a 19mm


    If you have that tool use other end as it does both types in your photo



  • Registered Users Posts: 379 ✭✭eggerb


    So, this is available from B&Q in the republic but not from their UK site so I’m hopeful it fits over my stop valve. (square seems the norm for most keys but the one I have isn’t square).

    The socket end is straight on the long edge (13.8mm in the centre) and semi rounded at the short edge (10mm).


    The other end fits .. checked in the shop ..





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,482 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    How strong is plastic on a semi seized valve and might it break if forced too much.

    did you check on the tool you have is not double ended.

    Do you not have a stop cock in property to shut off your mains as most do.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,116 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    That tool is specifically for 1/2 & 3/4" Stopcocks which look like this

    I'd using mole grips on it - although I'd go easy on it. The OP's stop valve has to be a 1/4 turn ball valve, so provided it turns should be easy enough to turn off.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Have a look at ball valve handles. Its hard to see in the photo but it looks like there might be a threaded hole in the center of the rectangle, you can get ones that screw on rather than bolt on if you want to leave it attached to the valve. The location of the valve and the size of the junction box might make it difficult to turn a handle.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,518 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    It appears that the crutch end of the tool pictured in post #1 will work fine on the valve. That's what it was designed for.

    @eggerb why haven't you tried it? It was suggested in an earlier post too...

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,116 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Can you explain that exactly? I don't see any of the tools show so far would do the job.

    The red plastic one might fit if the outer edge is filed off. There is to big a skirt on the tool to allow it to go down over the shaft.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,482 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    Sometimes when you buy tools and never have to use them



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,518 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    It should work, unless the crutch is too deep to engage the 1/2" brass valve?

    OP's pic

    https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/6TP4B3B62S53/351478e5-3c7d-4e37-80e0-6965d257024c.jpeg

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,116 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    None of those were ever intended to work with ball valves. I've had variations of all those for different places I've lived over the years, even had a key for a 3inch water main and various adapters for larger bore water mains but all the mains stopcocks I've ever come across are made like standard taps with a screw down valve and a stem the sticks up with the handle on the top. Some of the big mains valves have been gate valves but even they have a long stem. The OP's seems to be a fairly rare 1/4 turn ball valve. Rare in terms of usage as an outside mains stop valve.

    If it proved problematic I'd just dig up around it and replace it. People think you need to turn the water off to replace a valve and while that makes it easier I've replaced a good few outside with the water still running. Provided you have everything to hand and fit a fully open valve over a running supply pipe it goes over easily and only takes a few seconds to tighten up. You get a bit wet but its not something you do very often. With plastic mains pipe I wouldn't even go looking for somewhere to switch it off as you can cut into the pipe and have a valve fitted and tightened up in seconds.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,116 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Rule number one a jobs never too small to need new tools.

    Rule number two while your buying new tools you might as well buy a few extra just in case.

    I think if I felt I might need to turn that off more than just the once I'd make a tool for it. I'd probably hunt around for a piece of long steel tube that would be a tight a fit as possible over the top of it then hammer it flat on opposite sides and open it up as required. I've done that with old box spanners in the past which would be another starting point.

    Edit> The OP even has a clearance problem above from the side of the covers surround and to the side of the wall the pipe goes into. Any tool that did fit might not turn if its too thick and goes all around the spindle.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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