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BMW 318i petrol - how to use key to open boot ?

  • 07-01-2023 1:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 582 ✭✭✭


    My BMW 318i 2009 petrol 2.0l has a keyhole in the boot lid , tucked up hidden near the number plate light. I tried to use the key to open it and it will not open. The remote control opens it as normal, so it's not a problem normally.

    However, I recently had a problem when the battery apparently suffered a disconnect ( it's in the boot) and the car went completely dead. no lights at all, no hazard lights ... zilch. I discovered later , the back bracket holding the battery in place had come loose and the battery was moving about a little.

    Suspecting it was a disconnect, my 1st. reaction is to open the boot and check. How to do that ?

    I tried the key from the keyfob ( the keyfob was locked into the ignition slot and could not be removed, only the key could be removed from it. Seemed logical to use the key to open the boot lid .

    No go ! The key ,while turning, had no impact at all. I had to get a local motor factor to come and jump start it from under the bonnet, from the charging lugs.

    I thought it might have been a 'valet' function of some kind...... allow the car to be driven/parked but allow no access to the boot ? There is no 'valet' switch in the glove compartment, as on some more advanced models I believe.

    QUESTION:  What good is a keyhole that does not work ? It this a 'feature' of BMWs or could I have fault of some kind ?  

    Thanks :)



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,862 ✭✭✭Buffman


    The key should 100% open it so sounds like you have an issue with the keyhole.

    I'd try and squirt some WD-40 inside it as a first port of call. It's not unusual for keyholes that are rarely or never used for years to develop issues.

    There are a few other ways to get in if you're stuck.


    FYI, if you move to a 'smart' meter electricity plan, you CAN'T move back to a non-smart plan.

    You don't have to take a 'smart' meter if you don't want one, opt-out is available.

    Buy drinks in 3L or bigger plastic bottles or glass bottles or cartons to avoid the DRS fee.



  • Registered Users Posts: 582 ✭✭✭Anchises


    I tried thw WD 40 on the keyhole. Now it turns, a bit stifly, but still no opening. A little more research required.

    It opens fine with the remote, so the lock and solenoid seems serviceable.

    it's only of concern to me should I ever be locked out of the boot again.

    Thanks for the link -very helpful



  • Registered Users Posts: 582 ✭✭✭Anchises


    Problem solved. The WD40 must have done the trick after a delay/soak . The key now works fine . It needs a fair bit of pressure to turn it, since it's at a awkward angle on the boot lid. Thanks again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,162 ✭✭✭GavPJ


    Try and used the key as often as you can but be careful not to snap the key and you miles from home :-)



  • Registered Users Posts: 582 ✭✭✭Anchises


    As a follow up to this issue , it turned out that I had a far more serious fault than a sticky keyhole. The taillight over the battery well had allowed water in to the depth of about 3 - 4 inches. This had corroded the positive terminal located at the bottom of the well. That terminal has the battery positive lead connected to it and what seems to have been happening was that as I drove the sloshing water was shorting the terminal and eventually corroded it . I've had it replaced by my local mechanic and all is well now. He fitted a s/h positive lead, having managed to remove the corroded nut at the terminal - not an easy task. The arcing had caused the nut to weld to the terminal bolt. BMW really got it wrong designing such a potential trap int that model.

    So despite the Main Dealer suggesting it should cost 3000 to replace two cables , I got away with considerably less.


    Read about it here :




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