Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Audi A4 battery going flat all of a sudden

  • 20-03-2023 7:38pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭


    I've had flat batteries before - left lights on or some such. Jump start, run a few miles and it's fine.

    Flat battery this morn, jumped, drove 30 miles to work. Battery flat again this evening going home.

    It's charging and holding - I cut the engine out a few miles into the journey and started it again on the battery.

    When I came home, I locked it up, but then removed the earth strap (I need to go out later and wondered was something draining it unseen). I notice there's a fair bit of sparking if I touch the lead to the battery terminal. As if there's still a decent draw from the locked up car.

    At the weekend I changed a blown taillight bulb is all but can't imagine that affecting anything.


    I suppose the battery could be knackered - I'll leave the earth strap off overnight and see. But anyone any insight into how to trace an invisible draw when the cars locked up?



    Cheers



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭dontmindme




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 489 ✭✭Dirty Nails


    The spark is pretty normal & the video only applies to very old cars, Connecting & disconnecting the lead is waking up all the brains in the car, he should have waited for 5 mins before he decided he had a draw. Also cars with bonnet switches, you'd need to snap the locks shut to bypass them.

    My advice get your battery tested first before looking for problems that mightn't exist



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 770 ✭✭✭mikewest


    How old is the battery? Are you getting any warning lights? Have you had any random warning lights the lady while?

    If it is starting fine after leaving the negative disconnected then you may have a phantom drain but I would suspect the battery first off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    Can't remember whether I replaced this one or not but surely a car ought not drain a battery



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 10,844 Mod ✭✭✭✭artanevilla


    Probably just needs a new battery. Generally they last from 3-5 years.



  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 10,844 Mod ✭✭✭✭artanevilla


    By earth strap do you mean the negative terminal?



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    That's the one. Disconnected overnight last night and the battery was fine this morning (say 12 hours later) Whereas it discharged over an 8 hour working day when left connected yesterday.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,865 ✭✭✭BENDYBINN


    Would you ever have left the wireless on?



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    It's an 07 car. No wireless that I'm aware of:)



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    I've noticed a warning light sometimes hang after starting since this flat battery thing started. Looks like skid control. Ought I pull the fuse for that and see?

    Got a low brake pad warning about a month ago and ue to replace those with upcoming service



  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 10,844 Mod ✭✭✭✭artanevilla


    Have anything plugged into the cigarette lighter? Dashcam, phone charger etc?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,528 ✭✭✭cml387


    If you can't remember changing the battery it's probably old.

    A dodgy battery may have enough volts to start the car immediately after a journey but it will soon discharge enough to cause the car to fail to start overnight.



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    See above re warning light. Ta..



  • Registered Users Posts: 175 ✭✭Arnout


    Sometimes batteries just die overnight. Or over-fuelstop. It happened to me that one day I was still driving no problem, the next morning the battery was dead as a dodo. New battery and all was well (and still is almost five years later). I had already owned the car for six years and the battery probably wasn't new when I bought the car, so it didn't do too bad anyway.

    Over-fuelstop: my father left work one day, no problem. Stopped for fuel on the way home and the car wouldn't start anymore. Again: new battery and all was well.



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie




  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    Except the battery is holding charge fine so long as I disconnect the negative lead each time I get out of the car.

    Flat one morning - jump start

    Charged on the way to work (30 miles). That would normally sort an accidently discharged battery

    Went to go home that evening and the battery was flat again - jump start

    Drove home and disconnected the negative lead for the evening/night

    Reconnected battery lead next morning and the car started fine - battery plenty of life in it


    Conclusion (logical enough): it's not the battery, it's something discharging the battery even with the car locked up.



  • Registered Users Posts: 175 ✭✭Arnout


    Good point there then...

    Maybe interior light is on, or something like that? My kids keep playing with the switches...



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    Nothing obvious like that. I replaced a burnt out taillight bulb at the weekend but it's hardly that??? If it was consuming power, it'd light up :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,515 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    I had an old Gunson Testune Multimeter which i bought because it had a feature to show battery drain to help find the unit that was killing the battery like a stuck relay.

    One would be removing the fuses and checking the needle to see it drop and then identify what circuit was causing it . Even car radios caused it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,528 ✭✭✭cml387


    If you are determined it's a battery drain you need to connect an multimeter set to amps between ground strap and vehicle chassis.

    It shouldn't measure more than 0.1 amps at the very most with ignition off.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    That's the ticket - put a meter on it and pull fuses. why didn't I think of that!!

    I'll borrow a meter at the weekend and get cracking. Else route a big switch to the car interior where I can switch in and out the negative lead.


    Contact!!


    thanks for the advice folks - saved me a trip to the garawwwge, perhaps.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,515 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    Dont forget plenty of hints and videos on YouTube



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    So:


    Got a multimeter and hooked it up. 4amps being pulled with the ignition off.

    Pulled fuses and found that the interior/glove/boot lighting accounted for 3A. A few bits and bobs from other fuses (e.g. dash clock) but couldn't make much impact on the remaining 1A. Although happy to have found 3A, I figured 1A would still drain the battery quick. "Hardly have two different problems occurring at the same time?" I thought.

    Turns out that this multimeter thing is a bit of a red herring - the problem was simple and was as follows:

    At some point during the fiddling around with the multimeter, I locked the car as I sometimes do: driver (or other) door open, press the central locking, then close the opened door - assuming it will now be locked because the cars been locked up.


    Turns out that's false. The door which is open when the central locking operates stays unlocked when you close it. On my car anyway

    And with it any manual light that happens to be on. If you have the glove compartment open or the reading light on and then central lock the car with a door open and then close that door > then the door remains unlocked and those lights stay on.

    Press the central lock again and the remaining door locks and the glove/reading lights go out.

    Problem solved: I was locking the car up the wrong way. The 4A drain with ignition key out was neither here nor there.


    Thanks for all the assist - the multimeter helped, if only that it set me at the problem and I stumbled across the actual solution.



  • Registered Users Posts: 175 ✭✭Arnout


    Well done for finding the problem! Didn't think of that. Also because those lights on many cars switch off after a while anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,528 ✭✭✭cml387


    Top job. A future in auto electrics awaits you!



  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Auntie


    I'm an engineer in industry and if I've found one thing that's true it's that 95% of problems are simple. The hard bit is finding that out.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 754 ✭✭✭dontmindme


    That's the ticket - put a meter on it and pull fuses. why didn't I think of that!!

    You thanked the post but never looked at the video in post #2??



Advertisement