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Chain Waxing

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  • 03-09-2023 5:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭


    Not spotted another thread, so here is my experience.

    Decided to finally give it a go. I followed the process from these two videos:

    I bought these things:

    I already had these things:

    • degreaser
    • petrol
    • 3 good sized jars with lids

    First up was the chain cleaning process...

    I put the chain into petrol for about 8 hours. I poured in enough to cover the chain.

    Whilst that was happening, I did a deep clean on these parts with degreaser: cassette, chainrings, jockeywheels and I cleaned gunk off the front and rear mechs

    Got them all really really clean. Scrubing with an old toothbrush works really well. I've heard of people using cotton buds for the jockey wheels, but I didn't.

    Other than the mechs, I removed all parts for the deep clean.

    I made the hanger tool for waxing out of an old hanger. I kept the normal hook bit of the hanger to use for fishing the chain and the connector links out of the various jars.

    After eight hours in petrol I then put the chain into meth spirits over night.

    There was a lot of residue at the bottom the next day, so I left it overnight again but this time in a jar of degreaser.

    Took it out of degreaser the next day, rinsed it with water then into a fresh bit of meth spirits again for about 40 minutes. This time the solution was entirely clear, which meant the chain was properly clean.

    Next up is the waxing process...

    Measured 500g of wax pellets and put them into the crockpot at low temp. It took two hours to melt it all.

    Then the ptfe was added, 50g. Stir it in.

    Then put the chain on the hanger and pop it into the crockpot and swish it about for a bit. Left it in for 15 minutes with the heat on.

    Then took it out and wiped it down and let it cool

    Break all the hard wax so the links are free, clean the connector link and hook it all back up

    Initial impressions: the thing is clean. Took a quick spin around the block, lots of wax bits coming off. Bit noisey. Will see how it goes on a longer spin tomorrow evening.




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Comments

  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Takes a few Kms for the excess wax to fall off and the chain to properly sit and then you are good to go. Only issue with waxing is being prepped to redo it and I find I am not a well prepped person outside of work. I'd recommend having 2 or 3 chains if possible, so you have always have a spare to swap when dirty and can redo the other at you leisure (I never do this).



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I'd be interested to hear how it goes on the road after a good few spins - especially wet spins.

    I've read many reviews of the waxing process and so far it seems like lots of faff. I genuinely wonder if it'd be easier to degrease and re-lube regularly rather than the laborious waxing process.

    That said, I'd be tempted to try wax as it seems to stay cleaner for far longer so I'd be very interested to hear your opinion after a fair few spins in all sorts of weather. Be sure to post updates if you can.



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,096 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    After the first chain clean it's really easy. I run 4 chains so do a full rewax in the hot pot when I've gone through them all. Water and was is better than your general lubricant also. I use the Silca drop on version between the full rewax to both get the chain fully waxed and prolong life before having to hot wax again.


    One of my favourite things about it is how clean it is to handle, lug bike into car etc without even having to worry if I touch it or if it touches any part of the car, absolutely zero dirt!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Teflon in a cooking pot.

    Jaysus



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,792 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    On the plus side, no constipation in that household.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,246 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    Once you have done it once or twice, even the initial pre-clean is easy enough once you have the right jars and things to use. I find it the perfect job for a working from home day.

    Then rewaxing is something you just need to remember to do in time.

    I've been using wax on all my bikes since the spring (not many wet rides to be fair) - the difference in how clean my bikes are is really enormous



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Oh don't worry, I bought new crockpot solely for this ;-)



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,635 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    Super report Raam! I haven't been converted to wax yet (even enjoy the bike cleaning/ lubing process for some reason!) but this is a nudge in that direction



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,975 ✭✭✭Plastik


    Is it worth it?

    Cleanliness notwithstanding, what difference have you noticed for it to be worth the outlay of time, wax, equipment, multiple chains etc.?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The saving on wear of the chains will pay for any and all equipment in a few years. So while it is a large outlay in regards 3 chains, pots, wax etc. You won't need to replace the chains anywhere near as often so if 3 chains done you 3 years, they will likely go over 10 years now (and that is a conservative estimate) as well as reduced wear on cassettes and chainrings.

    The question then becomes how much is your time worth. In my opinion, once the first day is done, it becomes quicker and easier. The wash step Raam details can be almost 100% achieved by pouring boiling water over the removed chain and then into whatever solvent you are using. You will see the amount of dirt is minimal and saves a huge amount of time.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Ive been using Silca's chain stripper and their SILCA Super Secret Chain Lube, took chain off and cleaned with the stripper and brush, then dropped the lube on each link - nice and quite drive train now and its staying clean even after a wet spin.



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    I took it out for an hour earlier and it was far too squeaky for my liking so I did the boiling water thing and rewaxed. It's gone back on the bike now so I'll have a spin later to see how it feels.



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,185 ✭✭✭✭Tony EH


    Probably cheaper and easier just to buy a new chain?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,749 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Don't forget the stock pot!!

    It's a safe space for drivetrain nerds 😄



  • Registered Users Posts: 975 ✭✭✭harmless


    It is nice to have such a clean drivetrain but be sure to bring a bottle of squirt chain lube with you in case you do get caught in a downpour.

    Has anyone tried this all year round?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,635 ✭✭✭Paddigol


    But chain-stretch isn't determined by cleanliness is it? As in, if your chain is spotlessly maintained but you're doing big mileage you'll still need to replace it well before 10 years? According to that chain measuring calliper device yoke?



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Chain stretch is mainly wear not actually stretching, so while I was pulling the numbers out of my ass, it will last longer as the wear should be significantly less. I e seen a few places on you tube showing almost immeasurable wear after long distances/time intervals. Admittedly I take YouTube reports with a pinch of salt but it's definitely reduced on mine.



  • Registered Users Posts: 16,727 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    One question I have is that as a rough rule I use 3 chains per cassette in a year / racing season on the good bike.

    Have the waxers here found the cassette itself lasts longer? A cassette roughly twice the price of a chain these days so that would interest me if the cassette lasts longer.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,975 ✭✭✭Plastik


    I would imagine it is pure useless for racing on a wet day. You'll wash all the wax out on your warmup.

    I really like the idea, but in terms of practical application, I've a hard time reconciling the effort & reward. I don't think we have the climate for it. I don't take my good bike out in the wet, I've other bikes for that. I'd say I've had 3 chains in 20,000km/6 years on it. So another 3 chains and all the cost up front .. would probably stick to my off the shelf dry/wax lube.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,772 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Absolutely fine for racing in the wet but needs rewaxing more regularly. I certainly would get plenty of commutes in winter weather and wet races without issue. In fact I'd say it does really well in the wet. No different than any other lube, you have to reapply more often.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    I hope you’re not using a Shimano chain on a Campag groupset! You know that’s a criminal offence right?



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I replace chains at approximately 6,000kms (that's usually the kilometrage when the chain checker goes to past 0.75) so that's two chains per year (one on each bike). I clean the chains every 200-300kms and my cassettes and chainrings last well over 30,000kms.

    Would wax increase these intervals significantly enough to make the additional work worth while? Also, I think the breakeven point may be a fair few years but I'm warming to the idea of a perpetually clean chain - even in the depths of winter...........?



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,096 ✭✭✭Bambaata


    Big misconception that rain will wash it out. Wax does better than anything else in the rain.

    Here's the best source of independent data I've come across

    https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/



  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭Crocked


    GPLama just did a long term review of waxing. He put 15,000km on a waxed chain with minimal sign of wear. He only changed it because he had a new one sitting in the parts bin for the last 18 months and fancied just using it.

    Once you do the initial strip of the factory grease, waxing is easy. Do a full immersion wax the first time (takes a bit longer to build up the wax if just do drip wax) and then just top up with drip wax after that. Can redo full immersion wax if get caught out in particularly manky conditions. I've raced all this year with just drip waxing. Even in rain you'll be grand for a race, water isn't going to instantly wash off all the wax. Wipe any water off chain before putting it into the car and apply drip wax when get home. Not having to deal with a dirty chain is worth the 2 minutes it takes to drop some drip wax on the chain every couple of spins. Your chain and cassette will stay spotless. I have a reminder setup in Garmin connect which sends me an email once I've done ~200km to do a drip waxing.



  • Registered Users Posts: 9,387 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Do you have to do the same stripping to other brand new components (cassette, derailluer, chainset?). I probably won't do it with current race bike, but if I do build up n+1 over the winter, I may start as I mean to go on!



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,427 ✭✭✭jamesd


    Didnt know Garmin connect could do reminders, thats very handy - will have a look.



  • Registered Users Posts: 14,317 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    My Edge 1030 doesn't seem to allow me to do reminders like that.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 49,397 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    is it configured in garmin connect or direct on your garmin?



  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭Crocked


    Just the chain, cassette etc don't come with any lubricant etc on them. If used then give them a clean to remove any oil.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 543 ✭✭✭Crocked


    You do it in Garmin connect or the app. What you are doing is adding it to your gear as type "other". Give it a nickname, eg Drip wax chain. Then set the max distance to when you want the reminder. For example, for the drip waxing initially set the max distance to 200km, when you hit that mark you'll get a reminder email (make sure you have email notifications on). You then add 200km to the max distance setting (200 above what ever your current distance is, so say you hit 210km and get the reminder, increase it to 410km). You can set it so it automatically adds that gear to particular activities eg cycling. I don't do that as I can't figure out to seperate indoor rides and outdoor. rides So I manually add the gear to the activity afterwards.

    Sounds convoluted, but is pretty straight forward and only takes a second to add the gear to your activity once all is setup. I think intervals.icu also do this if you use that service but haven't looked into that yet.



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