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Brake pedal to the floor Avensis 2

  • 28-09-2023 2:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭


    Hello

    Trying to sort out a braking issue on a 2008 Avensis.

    Pedal goes to the floor and there is no braking power.

    I looked at pads, plenty of wear left.

    I bled the brakes. Working from the back brakes to the front passenger side all was going well. The brake pedal felt normal again.

    Went to bleed the driver side brake and the pedal reverted back to no power and travelling to the floor.

    Changing the Brake master cylinder has been mentioned but might there be another solution? It was curious how it suddenly went bad again when I bled the drivers side brake.

    Thanks in advance.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,252 ✭✭✭TigerTim


    Not sure if its of any help but I had a similar issue in a Corolla years ago & the seals in the master cylinder had gone bad. My mechanic refurbed the master cylinder.


    T.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,468 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Probably the master cylinder alright but I'd clamp the flexi hoses at each wheel in turn and all together to see if it shines any light on it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    Ok. Thanks for the replies.

    I'll go with changing the brake master cylinder (wouldn't know how to refurbish it).

    To ask, the clamping of the flexi hoses will reveal what? And I would clamp them in turn then try the brake pedal? And then altogether?

    Thanks again



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,468 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    I'd clamp each wheel individually. If for example you had some mad dodgy caliper that wasn't sliding and somehow was allowing excess piston travel, clamping the flexi at that wheel would regain solid pedal and point you.towards an issue at that wheel.

    It's a quick and easy check so why not.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    Thanks for the suggestion. I'm new to working on cars, just DIY, so I wouldn't be sure what I'd be looking for with your suggestion. As said I'll try to change the master cylinder and go from there. Thanks



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,896 ✭✭✭✭Spook_ie


    If you're new to working on cars I would suggest any brake issues are looked at by a good independent mechanic.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    I'll take this advice. Left it in to a mechanic today. Thanks for all replies.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,468 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Let us know what the issue was.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    I know the OP has gone to a mechanic, but I had a similar experience last year with my 40yo car. I had to replace a stuck caliper, and had a mate help me with the bleeding, we are both experienced, but despite spending hours on it could not get it bleed. Pedal to the floor after the job.

    Doing some research, it seems on an old master cylinder, a ridge can form in the bore (and/or corrosion) at the point where the normal piston travel ends. When you're bleeding, you naturally press the pedal all the way, so the piston seals get damaged passing over this ridge/corrosion.

    A new master cylinder did the job. Maybe this is what happened to the OP?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,468 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Ya that happens. Its always wise to try bleeding without pushing past the normal area of travel.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    Turns out I hadn't bled the brakes properly. One of the mechanics mentioned having to have the brake pedal to the floor when bleeding the final driver side brake. (Not 100% on that as fact). It's a two man job. I think the garage had a pneumatic bleeding system which does the job perfectly.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,468 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Not so bad. A cheap job in the end.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    Yep. €80.

    Thanks again for all replies.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 483 ✭✭Dirty Nails


    You didn't say why the pedal dropped in the start. If it dropped of it's own accord,the problem isn't fixed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 502 ✭✭✭doh777


    When pushed it went to the floor. There was still air in the system I think.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 483 ✭✭Dirty Nails


    If this just happened out of the blue & not because of / after repairs air wasn't your problem. Non return valve in the master cyl let fluid back in to the reservoir instead of pressurising it. Change the cylinder for your own safety,it'll likely happen again & as always when you really need the brakes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,483 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    Was the brake fluid level checked first and what colour was it ? Were all brakes visibly checked front and rear.

    Are there shoes and leaking cylinders on the rear and would have low level in the reservoir.

    If master cylinder was faulty having all 4 flexy hoses clamped pedal would still go to the floor.

    Toyotas are usually reliably great cars with little issues but even metal pipes can fail and stains under the car or on wheels.

    There are one man brake bleeding kits you connect to bleed nipple and a valve and give pedal a few slow pumps will push air out.

    Do all wheels for clean fluid in your system.



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